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Description:© (willmonks)

Another great route with some pretty bold bits on the second pitch.

Start: Start at the toe of the slabs 18m R of 'Simpleton', just L of a gully.

  1. 35m (16) Up easy slabs and past blocks to the cliff proper and a nice crack system up a wall. Up the crack to a slab and belay on the second ledge on the R.

  2. 30m (20) Up short, wide, shallow crack (large cam) to a poorly protected reach and so to overhang (alternatively, move R from belay, go up and back L below overhang). Move past L side of overhang to overlap, L to thin crack, wild moves above gear lead up crack to next overlap/break. Go 4m L along this to the next crack/break over bulge (shared with Missing), then go L again to belay in 'Simpleton' corner. You can also traverse L along the major break across missing to reach Simpleton's 2nd belay (at the old carrot), but this is not as good.

  3. 20m (16) Up the last bit of the 'Simpleton' corner to the capping roof and hand traverse L.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Glenn Tempest, Kevin Lindorff, May 1977

Location:  

Located in Central Buttress approx:
Long/Lat: 142.383756,-36.893250

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

19 * RockGUIDE: Victoria
19 ** A Rock Climbers Guide to the North Grampians
20 Principal
20 ** Grampians Selected Climbs
20 R ** ** ACA Route Register
20 ** Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux classic reachy dodgy technical slabby balancy crack

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