Site navigation

Section navigation

Description:© (willmonks)

Another great route with some pretty bold bits on the second pitch.

Start: Start at the toe of the slabs 18m R of 'Simpleton', just L of a gully.

  1. 35m (16) Up easy slabs and past blocks to the cliff proper and a nice crack system up a wall. Up the crack to a slab and belay on the second ledge on the R.

  2. 30m (20) Up short, wide, shallow crack (large cam) to a poorly protected reach and so to overhang (alternatively, move R from belay, go up and back L below overhang). Move past L side of overhang to overlap, L to thin crack, wild moves above gear lead up crack to next overlap/break. Go 4m L along this to the next crack/break over bulge (shared with Missing), then go L again to belay in 'Simpleton' corner. You can also traverse L along the major break across missing to reach Simpleton's 2nd belay (at the old carrot), but this is not as good.

  3. 20m (16) Up the last bit of the 'Simpleton' corner to the capping roof and hand traverse L.


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Glenn Tempest & Kevin Lindorff, May 1977


Located in Central Buttress approx:
Lat/Long: -36.893250,142.383756

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

20 R Community registered grade
19 RockGUIDE: Victoria
19 A Rock Climbers Guide to the North Grampians
20 Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre
20 Grampians Selected Climbs
20 R ** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 75%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux hard good amazing great classic awesome scary reachy dodgy technical slabby balancy crack

Learn about creating circuits.

Activity Configure

Check out what is happening on Technical Ecstasy (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.