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Description:© (willmonks)

Probably worthwhile at the grade. The route originally started as for 'Imbecile' but the route is described here with a better start.

Start: Start about 10m R of 'Mania', and 5m R of gully.

  1. 40m (10) Climb an easy groove about 10m R of 'Mania' (5m R of a gully) until forced L into the gully. Move up to below a line on the R wall of the gully. An alternative start claws directly up the horrible gully. Why would you do this?

  2. 30m (15) Follow the line past an overhang. A scary alternative (16) is to climb the left arete of the line, gained from the gully to the left, to meet the original pitch at the lip of the roof.

  3. 25m (14) On up the line to the top in a very exposed position and continue up final short wall.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Andrew Thomson, Joe Friend. (pitch 1 as described: Allan Hope). (Horrible gully start: Derek Vissor, Ann Scholes).(Second Pitch variant: Ray Lassman, Kieran Loughran)., Dec 2006

Location:  

Located in Central Buttress approx:
Long/Lat: 142.383756,-36.893250

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

15 ACA Route Register
15 Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre
15 Principal
15 A Rock Climbers Guide to the North Grampians

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Route quality

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