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Description:© (willmonks)

Would be a reasonable, long beginners' climb if not for the ridiculously hard [and hard to protect] move around the bulge to start which is out of character with everything else on the route. After that it's hard to work out where it goes, but the climbing is generally easy.

Start: Start 10m around R of 'Body Bath'. The original description says that it starts behind a pine tree. That was 40 years ago. There is a dead pine tree resting amongst the gum trees where I think this climb starts. There used to be a dead pine tree just L of 'The Long Paddock'. I wonder if the M was put there by the first ascent party or just a guidebook editor who thought they had worked out where the route went?

  1. 40m (15) Climb up through an undercut break (crux, there is an old initial "M" at this break and poor protection), move R a little then up the buttress to belay on the highest point.

  2. 24m (9) Good holds lead up a steep wall to a wide ledge below the overhang. Climb up L of the smooth wall.

  3. 25m (4) Move 4m L, then straight to the top.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Sue Priestly, Steve Craddock (alt) Easter., 1965

Location:  

Located in Central Buttress approx:
Long/Lat: 142.383756,-36.893250

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Route Grade Citations

15 Principal
9 Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre
9 A Rock Climbers Guide to the North Grampians
9 R ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

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