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Description:© (secretary)

A good line spoilt by a single aid move on the second pitch. The first pitch is a popular and well chalked line with a handy lower-off, but beware that falls before the 1st bolt have strained a few ankles on the swing into the slab below.

Start: Start at the flake/seam 5m right of 'Tokyo Rose', on the elevated ledge.

  1. 18m (25) Up the right-facing slabby flake (wires) to undercling (small cam(s), make it bomber). Burly moves to jug (RB). Crux crimps past 2nd RB to break, traverse R to guano ledge and DRB (18m). Wash your hands afterwards to safeguard against bird flu!

  2. 20m (26 M1) Take bolt brackets. Climb the closed corner above the ledge past 1 or 2 old fixed wires (bring your own too) then traverse left to gain the overhung ramp. Follow the ramp past three bolts (2nd bolt for aid) then up the headwall past final bolt to top. The aid move (an awkward dyno to a tricky catch of a pocket) might go free at 30+ if the strong persist.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Pitch 1: Chris Shepherd, Parrish Robbins. Pitch 2: Parrish Robbins, Nick White, Mar 1990

Location:  

Located in Taipan Wall approx:
Long/Lat: 142.385454,-36.896140

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

26,M1 The North Grampians Update
26 M1 Principal
26/M1 * Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre
26M1 * Grampians Selected Climbs
26 M1 ** ** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

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