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Description:© (secretary)

Wonderful climbing based on the sharp, undercut arete right of 'Dance of Life'. The crux is very hard, but very short. If you pull on the crux bolt it's an excellent 25M1. Take 3 bolt brackets, a full rack incl. 2 #3.5 cams, and 15-20 quickdraws.

Start: Start directly below the impressive hanging arete which soars upwards from the R side of a large roof. This is just L of where the walk-in meets the cliff, and is where the track along the base balances along the top edge of a large smooth-faced boulder.

  1. 35m (27) 10m easy grey slab, beware some friable rock, to desperate orange slab with a tricky-to-clip BR. Follow flakes to the steep groove on the R side of the arete. Crux past BR to break, then L and up L side of arete, 3½ cam & BR. At big break move R to belay in small cave.

  2. 15m (24) On up face, veering slightly right-wards to top.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Kim Carrigan & Martin Scheel, 29 Oct 1984

Location:  

Located in Taipan Wall approx:
Long/Lat: 142.385454,-36.896140

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

26 ** A Rock Climbers Guide to the North Grampians
26 *** RockGUIDE: Victoria
27 Principal
27 ** Grampians Selected Climbs
26/27 ** Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre
27 *** *** ACA Route Register
26/28 ** The North Grampians Update

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

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