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Description:© (secretary)

A good aid climb turned into a great free climb. The first pitch is worth a star or two in its own right and is justifiably very popular with 'Taipan' virgins.

Start: Start 25m R of 'The Great Divide', and 8m R of 'The Chick is Trouble'.

  1. 25m (23) Up shallow orange flake/corner to the large deep break, then traverse 5m L to pocketed roof (an alternative but inferior start is as for TCiT). Over roof (RB) on pockets, then follow flakes up and L to a ledge and DRB (20m rap).

  2. 35m (27) Some great moves in prime positions, but unfortunately not very sustained. Up to smooth wall, then step R to the desperate slabbing crux (old BRs) to a good rest. Up the incipient crack to the bulge and over this with difficulty. Up and L to a good slot and up to another slot and then a fingery wall leads to the top. This pitch has a few old bolts, exact number TBA.


Route History:

  • First Free Ascent: Steve Monks & Jane Wilkinson

  • First Ascent: FA Nick Reeves, Dave Mudie & Steve Due (alt), 1975


Located in Taipan Wall approx:
Long/Lat: 142.385454,-36.896140

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

27 Community registered grade
27 ** ** ACA Route Register
27 ** Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre
27 ** Grampians Selected Climbs
27 *** A Rock Climbers Guide to the North Grampians
27 *** The North Grampians Update
27 *** RockGUIDE: Victoria

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

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