- Height: 52m
- Bolts: 5
- Pitches: 2
- Ascents: 10
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- Description:© (secretary)
Another classic up this unlikely looking section of cliff. The crux at the start of the second pitch is ridiculously hard, and can be quite demoralising. Some prominent international climbers have suggested up to 8a for this move! It is also enjoyable, and far easier, to pull on that one bolt to reduce the grade to 25M1.
23m (21) A popular pitch in its own right, for many their first on the wall. Has a distinct move which makes grading highly subjective, enough said. The pocketed open corner doesn't reach the ground: gain it via a short pocketed slab 5m to the R (direct up the slab beneath the corner is insecure unprotected 21). Corner past FH (rebolted April 2011) and then jug L along break to belay ledge. For 2 decades the anchor was an eyesore of shitty fixed slings, then for 2 months it was some underwhelming fixed wires, now it is DRB (18m rap).
32m (26) Delicately up factor 2 territory for 3m to break (small cam), then lunge up L past bolt via diabolical crux. Mantle and crimp straight up to the 2nd FH (don't go R to Father O's 2nd RB like lost Euros often do!). Step L and blast up wall above, through bulge, then veer R (again, don't clip any RBs on Father O'!). Move back L and up final wall to a new (2011) lower-off (30m+, tie a knot in the end of your rope!). 4 FHs, fixed thread, wires and cams up to #3.
First Ascent: Malcolm Matheson, May 1989
Located in Taipan Wall approx:
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Route Grade Citations
|25||A Rock Climbers Guide to the North Grampians|
|26||Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre|
|26||Grampians Selected Climbs|
|26 ***||ACA Route Register|
|25/27||The North Grampians Update|