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Description:© (secretary)

Variety! The famous HB dyno route as immortalized by Simon Carter's photos in the early 1990s. Take a full rack up to #2.5Fr, including Aliens, RPs, and sling runners (and/or double ropes) to minimise drag.

Start: Start as for 'Sirocco'.

  1. 35m (27) A great series of features. Follow pitch 1 of 'Sirocco' to the horizontal. Swing R along this to tricky white corner and gain slab (FH). Trend R and up technical slab and finally the infamous big dyno between buckets (battered FH), to lower-off (25m, but a 60m rope barely reaches if it's still through all the gear so tie a knot in the end).

  2. 35m 32. The daunting beautiful red wall above to a rap anchor at the top. Yet another contender for the best pitch on the wall. Renamed Orange Desire or Serpent Dans l’Herbe (Snake in the Grass) by Quentin.


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Quentin Chastagnier, Mar 2013

  • First Ascent: Malcolm Matheson (pitch 1), 1990


Located in Taipan Wall approx:
Long/Lat: 142.385454,-36.896140

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

27 The North Grampians Update
27 Principal
27 ** ** ACA Route Register
27 ** Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre
27 ** Grampians Selected Climbs
32? Will Monks

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

dyno hard perfect great fun cool classic awesome fall awkward undercling

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