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Description:© (secretary)

The crux is immediately after the bolts at the start of the traverse, so the second needs to be stronger than the leader! A heady megaclassic ... but also a brilliant consumer-friendly 22 if you lower off the bolts at the top of the flake (25m).

Start: Start as for 'The Seventh Pillar'. Follow The Seventh Pillar for 18m to the major horizontal break. Swing left into flake crack and up it. Bolts at the top protect the crux, which is followed by a longish rightwards runout to the horizontal. Traverse 10m further right along this to rap chain (22m rap, can just barely lower off with a 60m rope). Extend all gear before the bolts, otherwise the flake is a real rope eater and rope drag will be hideous.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Mark Moorhead, Col Reece & Eddy Ozols, 1980

Location:  

Located in Taipan Wall approx:
Long/Lat: 142.385454,-36.896140

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

22 R Community registered grade
22 *** A Rock Climbers Guide to the North Grampians
22 R *** *** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 78%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

pumped crux perfect sweet classic nice awesome frightening fall runout tricky short flake rest jugs traverse

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