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This was the first route up 'Taipan Wall', an incredible achievement for the time, and remained the lone route on the wall for many years. It is still a stunning classic that generally follows a series of flakes and horizontal breaks trending rightwards up to the very highest point of the wall. Whether you do it at 18M2 with 3 sections of aid, 22M1 with one point of aid (via LHV) or free at 28 (via variant), it is a fantastic excursion. The remnant original fixed gear should be treated with suspicion, although enough bolts have been replaced to avoid death route status.

Start: Start at the very faint initials "SP", about 5m L of where the major flake system doesn't quite reach the ground (or bridge the tree direct).

  1. 40m (18 M1) Up the short pocketed wall, move 5m R and follow flake up R to horizontal break. Squirm R for 8m to awkwardly gain bolt ladder up white streak. Bring plenty of hero loops. One free move off the last bolt gains new DRB SHB (22m rap).

  2. 30m (18 M2) Step L and free up flake to a blank steep wall (please step left here and remove the unsightly 5m fixed rope!). Long reach to bolt, use it for aid to gain the next flake and either immediately revert to freeing (22M1), or keep aiding on RPs (18M2), to move L around the roof to the guano stained tip of the major flake. Continue up flake to a large horizontal break (with one final aid move for the 18M2 version). Crawl in for a lying down belay followed by an all-night bivvy (like Guild and Stone)...or take the far cushier hanging belay.

  3. 18m (1) The most outrageous grade 1 on the planet. Squirm awkwardly R to end of ledge and new DRB (45m rap).

  4. 25m (18) Follow the steep flake line up diagonally R (PR, BR) to the steep corner up the L side of the final tower, to a dangling topout at the very highest point of 'Taipan Wall'.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Kim Carrigan, Kieran Loughran (22M1), May 1982

  • First Ascent: Andrew Thomson, Kim Carrigan (18M2) 1974

  • First Ascent: Ian Guild, Mike Stone (var.)(16M4) (16, 17), 16 May 1966

Location:  

Located in Taipan Wall approx:
Long/Lat: 142.385454,-36.896140

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

18 M2 *** *** ACA Route Register
23 Principal
23 *** Grampians Selected Climbs
23,M1 ** RockGUIDE: Victoria
23,M1 *** The North Grampians Update
23/M1 *** Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre
23,M2 ** A Rock Climbers Guide to the North Grampians

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

good super fun scary flake bail epic

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