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Description:© (secretary)

Some fantastic slabbing in the prime central part of 'Taipan'. Originally 24, recent attempts by a prominent slab master suggest it could be 26 or more! For now we are splitting the difference.

Start: Start at the first belay of 'Lawrence of Arabia'. Either do LoA's 1st pitch, or jug up Feather Boa's 8m fixed rope and traverse 8m R along the break. The latter is much quicker and avoids the hanging belay if the leader uses double ropes and drops one after 15m. From the R end of the roof-like section of the horizontal, head up on pockets (thread, #3-4 cam). Continue slabbing past 4 hangerless bolts (rebolted 2011) to ledge below main roof. Traverse 5m R (small-med cams) to the first belay of Serpentine. Rap off (20m).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Richard Smith & Andy Pollitt, 1992


Located in Taipan Wall approx:
Lat/Long: -36.896140,142.385454

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

24 Community registered grade
24 Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre
24 Grampians Selected Climbs
25 * ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 67%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

desperate great

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