- Height: 75m
- Bolts: 11
- Pitches: 2
- Ascents: 24
- Description:© (secretary)
This famous line was the first route on the wall which cried out for the mythical fourth star. Naturally, it's in "Taipan's Top 5". Be aware that the bolts are bash-ins (with FHs) and are now over 20 years old.
Start: Start on the cairn on the raised ledge, directly below the obvious huge arete of Naja.
32m (24) Crank off cairn to break, then traverse L for 6-8m. Up over bulges past FHs, to a slopy ledge (#3 cam). (Don't go diagonally up L from 2nd FH, there's no gear). Traverse L to short arete and up this (FH) to belay (25m rap).
40m (29) This is why they rave about 'Taipan'. Roof, trend R across scoop, hug up turret to horizontal break. Move L then weave up wall to the top. 8 FHs. Trad anchor, or lower 30m off the last bolt.
First Ascent: Malcolm Matheson, Steve Monks, Feb 1988
First Free Ascent: Malcolm Matheson, Feb 1988
Located in Taipan Wall approx:
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Route Grade Citations
|29 ***||ACA Route Register|
|29||Grampians Selected Climbs|
|29/30||Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre|
|31||A Rock Climbers Guide to the North Grampians|
|31||The North Grampians Update|
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