- Height: 75m
- Bolts: 11
- Pitches: 2
- Ascents: 27
This famous line was the first route on the wall which cried out for the mythical fourth star. Naturally, it's in "Taipan's Top 5". Be aware that the bolts are bash-ins (with FHs) and are now over 25 years old, although they still look pretty good. PLEASE DON'T PISS ON THE BELAY LEDGE (bring a pee bottle for long belay sessions). Aiming left or outwards is NOT ok, you WILL be pissing on other pitches and yes they do get climbed.
Start: Start on the cairn on the raised ledge, directly below the obvious huge arete of Naja.
32m (24) Crank off cairn to break, then traverse L for 6-8m. Up over bulges past FHs, to a slopy ledge (#3 cam). (Don't go diagonally up L from 2nd FH, there's no gear). Traverse L to short arete and up this (FH) to belay (25m rap).
40m (29) This is why they rave about 'Taipan'. Roof, trend R across scoop, hug up turret to horizontal break. Move L then weave up wall to the top. 8 FHs. Trad anchor, or lower 30m off the last bolt.
First Ascent: Malcolm Matheson & Steve Monks, 1988
First Free Ascent: Malcolm Matheson, 1988
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
|29||Community registered grade|
|29 ***||ACA Route Register|
|29||Grampians Selected Climbs|
|29/30||Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre|
|31||A Rock Climbers Guide to the North Grampians|
|31||The North Grampians Update|
Overall quality score: 99%
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