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Description:© (secretary)

This famous line was the first route on the wall which cried out for the mythical fourth star. Naturally, it's in "Taipan's Top 5". Be aware that the bolts are bash-ins (with FHs) and are now over 25 years old, although they still look pretty good. PLEASE DON'T PISS ON THE BELAY LEDGE (bring a pee bottle for long belay sessions). Aiming left or outwards is NOT ok, you WILL be pissing on other pitches and yes they do get climbed.

Start: Start on the cairn on the raised ledge, directly below the obvious huge arete of Naja.

  1. 32m (24) Crank off cairn to break, then traverse L for 6-8m. Up over bulges past FHs, to a slopy ledge (#3 cam). (Don't go diagonally up L from 2nd FH, there's no gear). Traverse L to short arete and up this (FH) to belay (25m rap).

  2. 40m (29) This is why they rave about 'Taipan'. Roof, trend R across scoop, hug up turret to horizontal break. Move L then weave up wall to the top. 8 FHs. Trad anchor, or lower 30m off the last bolt.


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Malcolm Matheson & Steve Monks, 1988

  • First Free Ascent: Malcolm Matheson, 1988


Located in Taipan Wall approx:
Long/Lat: 142.385454,-36.896140

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

29 Principal
29 *** *** ACA Route Register
29 *** Grampians Selected Climbs
29/30 *** Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre
31 *** A Rock Climbers Guide to the North Grampians
31 *** The North Grampians Update

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 98%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

solid crux hard amazing super satisfying classic awesome sunny rest contrived

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