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Description:© (secretary)

After the long years of Steve and others being spat off before Dave cleaned it up, it's apt that this genus includes the Spitting Cobra! The strongest line on all 'Taipan', this is the left-facing arete bounding the right side of the massive scooped out area right of 'Serpentine'. It is more closely bolted than most other 'Taipan' routes, although they're getting a bit the worse for wear. The whole thing can be worked from the ground using a 70m rope (but only just!).

Start: Start as for 'Serpentine'.

  1. 25m (27) Gain the arete and follow it, mostly sub-25 but with an insecure dyno past the 2nd bolt. Consider a cam before the (rusty) 1st bolt, not least to avoid knackering yourself if you come off the tricky next moves. Above the 5th bolt its a bit runout to the anchor (20m rap).

  2. 15m (30) Continue up the arete with much better climbing. Unfortunately it gets increasingly guano-stained up high, so take a brush, but you can avoid the worst/highest section of guano by moving left before gaining the anchor (37m rap). Awaiting the obvious extended finish from the guano ledge to the top.


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Equipped Steve Monksish? & sent by Dave Jones, 1990


Located in Taipan Wall approx:
Lat/Long: -36.896140,142.385454

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

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30 Community registered grade
30 *** ACA Route Register

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