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Description:© (secretary)

A strenuous single pitch, mostly superb 22-23ish but with a distinct hard section. It takes the main arete-like thing bounding the L side of this large red scooped out section of cliff.

Start: Start on the elevated ledge, 3m L of the top of the boulder you scrambled up.

  1. 28m (26) Easily up ramp/corner to break under roof. Scuttle R to strenuous roof flake (FH) and onto slab. A small arete (hangerless bolt) leads to the much steeper main arete with 3 FHs. A bomber titanium (!) piton plus a few small-med cams protect the roofy juggy finish to the rap station (30m to the ground).

  2. 20m (-) Garry Philips bolted a 2nd pitch / extension in 2006 (still a closed project). It's a V9-ish traverse R from the anchors to the black streak, then straight up the black streak to a fairly low anchor (45m to the ground). The idea will probably be to climb it as an extension to the first pitch rather than as a separate 2nd pitch.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Malcolm Matheson (originally starting up Invisible Fist - he added the direct start through the roof with Jacqui Middleton and Neil Monteith on)., 25 May 2003

Location:  

Located in Taipan Wall approx:
Long/Lat: 142.385454,-36.896140

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

26 Principal
26 * Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre
26 * Grampians Selected Climbs
26 ** ** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

dyno crux desperate hard super great rad awesome scary tricky weird flake mantle awkward undercling roof fist

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