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Description:© (secretary)

A strenuous single pitch, mostly superb 22-23ish but with a distinct hard section. It takes the main arete-like thing bounding the L side of this large red scooped out section of cliff.

Start: Start on the elevated ledge, 3m L of the top of the boulder you scrambled up.

  1. 28m (26) Easily up ramp/corner to break under roof. Scuttle R to strenuous roof flake (FH) and onto slab. A small arete (hangerless bolt) leads to the much steeper main arete with 3 FHs. A bomber titanium (!) piton plus a few small-med cams protect the roofy juggy finish to the rap station (30m to the ground).

  2. 20m (-) Garry Philips bolted a 2nd pitch / extension in 2006 (still a closed project). It's a V9-ish traverse R from the anchors to the black streak, then straight up the black streak to a fairly low anchor (45m to the ground). The idea will probably be to climb it as an extension to the first pitch rather than as a separate 2nd pitch. However this version is mostly redundant since the completion of Southern Delight and Trouser Snake.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Malcolm Matheson (originally starting up Invisible Fist - he added the direct start through the roof with Jacqui Middleton and Neil Monteith on)., 25 May 2003

Location:  

Located in Taipan Wall approx:
Long/Lat: 142.385454,-36.896140

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

26 Principal
26 * Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre
26 * Grampians Selected Climbs
26 ** ** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 71%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

dyno crux desperate hard super great rad awesome scary tricky weird flake mantle awkward undercling roof fist

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