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Description:© (secretary)

A few pieces of gear down low on the easier sections. If you use the anchor, shout AD a beer for fixing it up. Probably the most popular route on 'Taipan' - not least because of it's spoodgy grade and the quantity of shiny stainless steel!

Start: Start on the elevated ledge, just L of the top of the boulder you scrambled up, below a well-chalked slabby thin flake.

  1. Up slab to rooflet then mantle onto slab. Delicately up this to horizontal, slap the slopers, ride the horsey, monkey up the flake and dyno like a madman to lower-off (30m). Take two #5 Rocks if you can afford them.

  2. (15m, 34, 8 bolts) The extension through the bulge (bolted by Ben Cossey/Al Pryce) and up the black streak on the headwall to the top (bolted by Garry Phillips) was sent by Kilian Fischhuber on 3/8/12. As usual in this guide, this is written up as a "second pitch" so that the easier first pitch is also recorded, however the hard version is best climbed in a single 45m pitch to the top. Kilian calls this version "Southern Delight".

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Gordon Poultney, Chris Jones (p1 Jan 1996). Extension: Kilian Fischhuber 3/8/2012, 1996

Location:  

Located in Taipan Wall approx:
Long/Lat: 142.385454,-36.896140

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

26 Principal
26 * Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre
26 ** Grampians Selected Climbs
26 R *** *** ACA Route Register
26,34

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 84%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

pumped dyno crux difficult desperate hard stoked super beautiful fun cool nice fantastic good sweet brilliant amazing great classic awesome scary fall runout crap rest slopey hands fist traverse

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