- Height: 26m
- Bolts: 7
- Pitches: 2
- Breakdown: 26, 34
- Ascents: 149
- Description:© (secretary)
A few pieces of gear down low on the easier sections. If you use the anchor, shout AD a beer for fixing it up. Probably the most popular route on 'Taipan' - not least because of it's spoodgy grade and the quantity of shiny stainless steel!
Start: Start on the elevated ledge, just L of the top of the boulder you scrambled up, below a well-chalked slabby thin flake.
Up slab to rooflet then mantle onto slab. Delicately up this to horizontal, slap the slopers, ride the horsey, monkey up the flake and dyno like a madman to lower-off (30m). Take two #5 Rocks if you can afford them.
(15m, 34, 8 bolts) The extension through the bulge (bolted by Ben Cossey/Al Pryce) and up the black streak on the headwall to the top (bolted by Garry Phillips) was sent by Kilian Fischhuber on 3/8/12. As usual in this guide, this is written up as a "second pitch" so that the easier first pitch is also recorded, however the hard version is best climbed in a single 45m pitch to the top. Kilian calls this version "Southern Delight".
First Ascent: Gordon Poultney & Chris Jones (p1 Jan 1996). Extension: Kilian Fischhuber 3/8/2012, 1996
Located in Taipan Wall approx:
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Route Grade Citations
|26 R||Community registered grade|
|26||Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre|
|26||Grampians Selected Climbs|
|26 R ***||ACA Route Register|
Overall quality score: 85%
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Check out what is happening on The Invisible Fist (of Professor Hiddich Smiddich) (+ Southern Delight) (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.