Section navigation

Phototopos:

Description:© (secretary)

Suffocatingly powerful. Can be led as one giant pitch.

Start: Start at large expanding left-facing flake 8m right of 'World Party'.

  1. 18m (21) Not a great pitch. Expanding flake (FH), then traverse left across break (FH) and up slab to chain belay (15m rap). A few medium-large cams are useful.

  2. 35m (28) Straight up (2 FHs) to stance on the left, then rightwards out bulge with sustained endurance climbing up to big roof. Over 2 roofs into water runnel above (2 FHs), then head off left to the 'World Party' anchors. Most leaders clean it themselves by reversing, back-jumping and re-threading their way back down the pitch (hence all the unsightly bail biners), the only alternative is to find some idiot to second you then rap off (48m). All these shenanigans will be obviated once a proper anchor is placed directly above the 2nd pitch (which HB has reportedly okayed - any volunteers?).

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Malcolm Matheson & Simon Mentz, 1993

Location:  

Located in Taipan Wall approx:
Long/Lat: 142.385454,-36.896140

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

27 The North Grampians Update
27 *** RockGUIDE: Victoria
28 Principal
28 ** Grampians Selected Climbs
28 ** Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre
28 *** *** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux amazing super roof

Learn about creating circuits.