Section navigation

Description:© (secretary)

The brilliant first pitch is one of the most popular at 'Taipan' and was a very impressive effort by the young bumblies Jared and Simon. Often cited as the best 25 (26) in 'Australia'. Pitch 2 is far less popular, but still excellent.

Start: Start from the R-hand end of the ledge, 4m R of Anaconda's flake - and set a belay.

  1. 28m (26) Pockets and mantles to ledge. Move R along wide break then slopes lead to a spike hold. Head R to arete then up to break. Blast up the R side of the groove above, finally trending L to a compact cave with DRB lower-off (28m to tree then swing back in to ledge, or 38m to ground). A #2.5Fr is needed to eliminate nasty fall potential below the crux bolt, & most climbers also place 1 or 2 large wires & a #3.5Fr.

  2. 15m (26) A techy big dyno to start, then some great technical moves up the vague arete. 4 bolts & rap chain (15m to 1st belay, 48m to ground).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Pitch 1 Jared McCulloch & Simon MentzPitch 2 Jared McCulloch 18-10-1989, 1989


Located in Taipan Wall approx:
Long/Lat: 142.385454,-36.896140

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

26 Community registered grade
25 *** A Rock Climbers Guide to the North Grampians
26 *** RockGUIDE: Victoria
26 *** Grampians Selected Climbs
26 *** Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre
26 *** The North Grampians Update
26 *** *** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 84%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

dyno crux stoked incredible cool nice perfect good brilliant amazing great classic awesome fall tricky rest arete sloper fist

Learn about creating circuits.

Activity Configure

Check out what is happening on Mr Joshua (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.