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Description:© (secretary)

The brilliant first pitch is one of the most popular at 'Taipan' and was a very impressive effort by the young bumblies Jared and Simon. Often cited as the best 25 in 'Australia'. Pitch 2 is far less popular, but still excellent. Start from the R-hand end of the ledge, 4m R of Anaconda's flake. Set a belay, or belay from the ground.

  1. 28m (25) Pockets and mantles to ledge. Move R along wide break then slopes lead to a spike hold. Head R to arete then up to break. Blast up the R side of the groove above, finally trending L to a compact cave with DRB lower-off (28m to tree then swing back in to ledge (60m rope), or 38m to ground (70m rope)). A #2.5Fr is needed to eliminate nasty fall potential below the crux bolt, & most climbers also place 1 or 2 large wires & a #3.5Fr.

  2. 15m (26) Bring a bolt plate for the belay setup; there's a carrot which lets you get comfy in the cave and spend less time stuck on the uncomfortable hanging belay. A techy big dyno to start, then some great technical moves up the vague arete. 4 bolts, trad, & rap chain (15m to 1st belay, 48m to ground).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Pitch 1 Jared McCulloch & Simon MentzPitch 2 Jared McCulloch 18-10-1989, 15 Jul 1989


Located in Taipan Wall approx:
Lat/Long: -36.896140,142.385454

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

26 Community registered grade
25 A Rock Climbers Guide to the North Grampians
26 *** ACA Route Register
26 Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre
26 Grampians Selected Climbs
26 The North Grampians Update
26 RockGUIDE: Victoria

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 91%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

pumped dyno crux hard stoked incredible super beautiful fun cool nice perfect good brilliant amazing great classic awesome fall tricky short rest arete sloper fist

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