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Description:© (secretary)

The brilliant first pitch is one of the most popular at 'Taipan' and was a very impressive effort by the young bumblies Jared and Simon. Often cited as the best 25 (26) in 'Australia'. Pitch 2 is far less popular, but still excellent.

Start: Start from the R-hand end of the ledge, 4m R of Anaconda's flake - and set a belay.

  1. 28m (26) Pockets and mantles to ledge. Move R along wide break then slopes lead to a spike hold. Head R to arete then up to break. Blast up the R side of the groove above, finally trending L to a compact cave with DRB lower-off (28m to tree then swing back in to ledge, or 38m to ground). A #2.5Fr is needed to eliminate nasty fall potential below the crux bolt, & most climbers also place 1 or 2 large wires & a #3.5Fr.

  2. 15m (26) A techy big dyno to start, then some great technical moves up the vague arete. 4 bolts & rap chain (15m to 1st belay, 48m to ground).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Pitch 1 Jared McCulloch & Simon MentzPitch 2 Jared McCulloch 18-10-1989, 1989


Located in Taipan Wall approx:
Long/Lat: 142.385454,-36.896140

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

26 Community registered grade
25 *** A Rock Climbers Guide to the North Grampians
26 *** *** ACA Route Register
26 *** The North Grampians Update
26 *** Grampians Selected Climbs
26 *** Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre
26 *** RockGUIDE: Victoria

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 84%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

dyno crux stoked incredible cool nice perfect brilliant amazing great classic awesome fall tricky rest arete sloper fist

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