Section navigation

Description:© (secretary)

A beautiful scoop of rock with a tenuous traverse and remarkably sustained climbing for the length of the scoop. The business is a little short to rank up there with Taipan's very best, but it's still a 3 star route.

Start: Start at the DRB atop Kaa p1, accessed as described above. (There is an old direct start with a couple of bolts (described on the 'Spurt Wall' page), but nobody bothers with it).

  1. 20m (28) This pitch is almost a sport route as it contains a few fixed wires to supplement the bolts, but most people also put in a few medium cams. It's a very popular pitch due to its squishy grade, and is many climbers' first 28. Step right past FH and up reachy wall past fixed wires to big break. Swing over rooflet (fixed wire) then traverse R across scoop. Pump up the subtle R arete of the scoop (2 FHs + fixed wire) then a tricky conclusion up L to break. Clip-and-go lower-off (16m to ledge, 30m to ground), or if you're continuing up pitch 2 scuttle 5m further L along the break to belay. Originally, pitch 1 finished directly up the R side of the scoop to a ledge at the R end of the break (with at least one bolt), but this necessitated an intermediate traverse pitch and so is not the best approach.

  2. 20m (28) Rarely done. Up through scoops into cave above. Out right side of cave to top. There's no rap anchor - make an exposed traverse R to Kaa's anchor (belay recommended).

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Steve Monks early, 1995

Location:  

Located in Taipan Wall approx:
Long/Lat: 142.385454,-36.896140

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

28 Principal
28 ** Grampians Selected Climbs
28 ** Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre
28 *** *** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 87%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux sustained hard perfect good great fun awesome fall easy rest arete fist traverse

Learn about creating circuits.