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Phototopos:

Description:© (secretary)

Wanders around like crazy in order to follow the 'weaknesses', but still worthwhile. Nearly all the bolts are in poor condition - please contribute to rebolting. You also need a light trad rack.

Start: Start at ground level at the prominent left-leading flake that is located towards the right end of the 'Spurt Wall' bouldering traverse, directly below 'Venom'.

  1. 25m (23) Average. Climb the flake to gain a ledge, then move off its left end past a FH (rebolted 2011) then up face and right along ledge to DRB (placed ~2005, 14m rap).

  2. 25m (24) Move up and right past FH to a horizontal break. Traverse right (med. cam) and up past FH to another horizontal (cams). Right again beneath FH in steep territory (incredibly awkward to clip from below, incredibly bold to clip from above), then make a hand-traverse back left just above FH, and onto ledge with DFH (25m rap possible).

  3. 15m (24) Step R, up to roof, then L to FH. Dangle out R through overhangs past 2nd FH, ignore 3rd FH, and trend R to a delicate last move onto the terrace and DFH (35m rap). A harder alternative (25) is to head straight up past the 3rd FH (see 62a on topo).

  4. 15m (23) Pull up to diagonal ramp and follow it up L to spike/jug on arete. Up steep face, moving L to faint groove (wire), to rap anchor back over the clifftop. The 50m rap straight to the deck is not recommended due to rope drag. Instead, lower back to the 3rd belay, then rap 35m off Rattlesnake Shake's DRB.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood, 1992

Location:  

Located in Taipan Wall approx:
Long/Lat: 142.385454,-36.896140

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

24 Principal
24 * Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre
24 * The North Grampians Update
24 * Grampians Selected Climbs
24 * * ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

cool scary steep

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