- Height: 80m
- Bolts: 9
- Pitches: 4
- Ascents: 5
- Description:© (secretary)
Wanders around like crazy in order to follow the 'weaknesses', but still worthwhile. Nearly all the bolts are in poor condition - please contribute to rebolting. You also need a light trad rack.
25m (23) Average. Climb the flake to gain a ledge, then move off its left end past a FH (rebolted 2011) then up face and right along ledge to DRB (placed ~2005, 14m rap).
25m (24) Move up and right past FH to a horizontal break. Traverse right (med. cam) and up past FH to another horizontal (cams). Right again beneath FH in steep territory (incredibly awkward to clip from below, incredibly bold to clip from above), then make a hand-traverse back left just above FH, and onto ledge with DFH (25m rap possible).
15m (24) Step R, up to roof, then L to FH. Dangle out R through overhangs past 2nd FH, ignore 3rd FH, and trend R to a delicate last move onto the terrace and DFH (35m rap). A harder alternative (25) is to head straight up past the 3rd FH (see 62a on topo).
15m (23) Pull up to diagonal ramp and follow it up L to spike/jug on arete. Up steep face, moving L to faint groove (wire), to rap anchor back over the clifftop. The 50m rap straight to the deck is not recommended due to rope drag. Instead, lower back to the 3rd belay, then rap 35m off Rattlesnake Shake's DRB.
First Ascent: Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood, 1992
Located in Taipan Wall approx:
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Route Grade Citations
|24 *||ACA Route Register|
|24||Grampians Selected Climbs|
|24||The North Grampians Update|
|24||Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre|
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