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Description:

Good climbing all the way up one of the compelling features of The Amphitheatre. All cams, with doubles up to 2½. The final three pitches could be cut to two with careful rope, equipment and mental management. The reachy start to the second pitch has been tamed with a cairn, combined tactics would be a preferable solution.

Start: Start as for 'The Walltower Castle'.

  1. 20m (19) Up 3m, move R and up, bolt, to ledge. Easy, unprotected slab to tree (as for Blank Frank).

  2. 40m (21) Move the belay R 10m to boulders on the terrace beneath short, overhanging wall. Pull up and swing right on horizontal breaks in the initial steep wall, crank up to bolt, then move L a little and go up to large horizontal break. Straight up short wall to R end of long, bushy ledge. Traverse R to line of flakes up centre of face and bolt. Up flakes then slabs to bolts.

  3. 20m (20) Up slab, 2 bolts, to diagonal crack leading to main overhang and up to overhang. Pull onto overhang, undercling and layback flake, hand traverse R to rest. Wide step R to semi-hanging belay from cams.

  4. 15m (15) Diagonally R up face to ledge that leads across to belay in 'Sluice'.

  5. 25m (19) 'Sweet Dreams'.

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Kieran Loughran, Jane Wilkinson used a wandering approach to the roof in. Loughran added (2) in November 1991. As described: Loughran, Keith Lockwood November 1995., Feb 1990

Location:  

Route Grade Citations

21 *** Grampians Selected Climbs
21 *** Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre
21 *** *** ACA Route Register
22 Principal
22 * RockGUIDE: Victoria
22 ** The North Grampians Update

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

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