Learn about creating circuits.
- Description:
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Good climbing all the way up one of the compelling features of The Amphitheatre. All cams, with doubles up to 2½. The final three pitches could be cut to two with careful rope, equipment and mental management. The reachy start to the second pitch has been tamed with a cairn, combined tactics would be a preferable solution.
Start: Start as for 'The Walltower Castle'.
20m (19) Up 3m, move R and up, bolt, to ledge. Easy, unprotected slab to tree (as for Blank Frank).
40m (21) Move the belay R 10m to boulders on the terrace beneath short, overhanging wall. Pull up and swing right on horizontal breaks in the initial steep wall, crank up to bolt, then move L a little and go up to large horizontal break. Straight up short wall to R end of long, bushy ledge. Traverse R to line of flakes up centre of face and bolt. Up flakes then slabs to bolts.
20m (20) Up slab, 2 bolts, to diagonal crack leading to main overhang and up to overhang. Pull onto overhang, undercling and layback flake, hand traverse R to rest. Wide step R to semi-hanging belay from cams.
15m (15) Diagonally R up face to ledge that leads across to belay in 'Sluice'.
25m (19) 'Sweet Dreams'.
Route History:
First Ascent: Kieran Loughran, Jane Wilkinson used a wandering approach to the roof in. Loughran added (2) in November 1991. As described: Loughran, Keith Lockwood November 1995., Feb 1990
Location:
Route Grade Citations
| 21 |
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| 21 |
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| 21 *** |
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| 22 | Principal |
| 22 |
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| 22 |
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