- Height: 120m
- Pitches: 5
- Ascents: 24
- Description:© (willmonks)
An historic route but much of the climb is quite easy, it wanders, and the best bits are included in 'Sweet Dreams' and 'Navarre'. Still, it's not a bad climb for parties that want a longish climb with a short, well-protected crux. The nasty version of the final traverse is memorable. Take large cams.
Start: Scramble up the top of the easy diagonal ramp to below the major L-leading diagonal groove/corner, about 15m R of 'Spillway'.
35m (18) L-leaning groove to big slot with hard move at 25m. Traverse R to terrace.
20m (-) Traverse L past bush and up to ledge.
20m (-) Follow diagonal line up L to overhang, undercling and layback R around flake and on up line to ledge on R.
12m (-) Traverse R to terrace. There are two options: either a poorly protected friction traverse R to a better foot-ledge or, move up 3m, traverse easily R and drop back down to end of the friction section.
10m (-) Up L to abseil anchors.
First Ascent: Ian Guild & Chris Davis (alt). FA Rod Young 1977., 1965
Located in The Green Wall approx:
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Route Grade Citations
|18||Community registered grade|
|18||A Rock Climbers Guide to the North Grampians|
|18||Grampians Selected Climbs|
|18||Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre|
|18||ACA Route Register|
Overall quality score: 57%
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