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Description:© (willmonks)

An historic route but much of the climb is quite easy, it wanders, and the best bits are included in 'Sweet Dreams' and 'Navarre'. Still, it's not a bad climb for parties that want a longish climb with a short, well-protected crux. The nasty version of the final traverse is memorable. Take large cams.

Start: Scramble up the top of the easy diagonal ramp to below the major L-leading diagonal groove/corner, about 15m R of 'Spillway'.

  1. 35m (18) L-leaning groove to big slot with hard move at 25m. Traverse R to terrace.

  2. 20m (-) Traverse L past bush and up to ledge.

  3. 20m (-) Follow diagonal line up L to overhang, undercling and layback R around flake and on up line to ledge on R.

  4. 12m (-) Traverse R to terrace. There are two options: either a poorly protected friction traverse R to a better foot-ledge or, move up 3m, traverse easily R and drop back down to end of the friction section.

  5. 10m (-) Up L to abseil anchors.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Ian Guild, Chris Davis (alt). FA Rod Young 1977., 20 Nov 1965

Location:  

Located in Grey and Green Walls approx:
Long/Lat: 142.385229,-36.894367

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

18 Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre
18 A Rock Climbers Guide to the North Grampians
18 ACA Route Register
18 Principal
18 Grampians Selected Climbs

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

great

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