- Height: 120m
- Pitches: 5
- Ascents: 25
- Description:© (willmonks)
An historic route but much of the climb is quite easy, it wanders, and the best bits are included in 'Sweet Dreams' and 'Navarre'. Still, it's not a bad climb for parties that want a longish climb with a short, well-protected crux. The nasty version of the final traverse is memorable. Take large cams.
Start: Scramble up the top of the easy diagonal ramp to below the major L-leading diagonal groove/corner, about 15m R of 'Spillway'.
35m (18) L-leaning groove to big slot with hard move at 25m. Traverse R to terrace.
20m (-) Traverse L past bush and up to ledge.
20m (-) Follow diagonal line up L to overhang, undercling and layback R around flake and on up line to ledge on R.
12m (-) Traverse R to terrace. There are two options: either a poorly protected friction traverse R to a better foot-ledge or, move up 3m, traverse easily R and drop back down to end of the friction section.
10m (-) Up L to abseil anchors.
First Ascent: Ian Guild & Chris Davis (alt). FA Rod Young 1977., 1965
Located in The Green Wall approx:
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Route Grade Citations
|18||Community registered grade|
|18||Grampians Selected Climbs|
|18||ACA Route Register|
|18||A Rock Climbers Guide to the North Grampians|
|18||Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre|
Overall quality score: 58%
Learn about creating circuits.
Check out what is happening on Sluice (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.