- Height: 150m
- Pitches: 4
- Ascents: 39
- Description:© (willmonks)
Brittle when wet
An adventure. There are at least 3 ways of getting past the cave. The way I consider best is used in the description and the alternatives are at the end.
Start: Start at the base of diagonal ramp that 'Sluice' and other routes scramble up. For this route, it is probably easier to belay from the ground than to set up a belay at the top of the ramp.
35m (10) Follow the ramp then up the corner that is the continuation of the ramp until able to move R to belay in the large cave.
25m (10) Move out the next hole along from the one you entered by (feels ridiculously exposed) climb the pillar on the L (facing the cliff), with poor protection at first (crux). Continue up buttress to a ledge. Rope drag and communication can be difficulties. (Variants 2a. (10) Instead of traversing R into the cave, continue up the corner and move back R above the cave. Move R-wards to rejoin the route. 2b. Move back out of the hole that the cave was entered from and climb the rib to the R (facing the cliff).)
35m (-) Up a series of walls to another large cave which these days is increasingly frequented by boulderers (Ground Control Caves) so you might feel a bit over-dressed with a rope on!
20m (-) Either traverse L for 10m to rappel anchors or continue to top.
First Ascent: Steve Craddock, Sue Priestly, John Cargill (var), Bob Craddock & Jerry Grandage Easter., 1965
Located in The Green Wall approx:
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Route Grade Citations
|9||Community registered grade|
|10 *||ACA Route Register|
|10||Grampians Selected Climbs|
|10||Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre|
|8||A Rock Climbers Guide to the North Grampians|
Overall quality score: 51%
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