- Height: 150m
- Pitches: 4
- Ascents: 48
- Description:© (willmonks)
An adventure. There are at least 3 ways of getting past the cave. The way I consider best is used in the description and the alternatives are at the end.
Start: Start at the base of diagonal ramp that 'Sluice' and other routes scramble up. For this route, it is probably easier to belay from the ground than to set up a belay at the top of the ramp.
35m (10) Follow the ramp then up the corner that is the continuation of the ramp until able to move R to belay in the large cave.
25m (10) Move out the next hole along from the one you entered by (feels ridiculously exposed) climb the pillar on the L (facing the cliff), with poor protection at first (crux). Continue up buttress to a ledge. Rope drag and communication can be difficulties. (Variants 2a. (10) Instead of traversing R into the cave, continue up the corner and move back R above the cave. Move R-wards to rejoin the route. 2b. Move back out of the hole that the cave was entered from and climb the rib to the R (facing the cliff).)
35m (-) Up a series of walls to another large cave which these days is increasingly frequented by boulderers (Ground Control Caves) so you might feel a bit over-dressed with a rope on!
20m (-) Either traverse L for 10m to rappel anchors or continue to top.
First Ascent: Steve Craddock, Sue Priestly, John Cargill (var), Bob Craddock & Jerry Grandage Easter., 1965
Located in The Green Wall approx:
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Route Grade Citations
|9||Community registered grade|
|10||Grampians Selected Climbs|
|10 *||ACA Route Register|
|10||Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre|
|8||A Rock Climbers Guide to the North Grampians|
Overall quality score: 55%
Learn about creating circuits.
Check out what is happening on Threadneedle (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.