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Description:© (willmonks)

An adventure. There are at least 3 ways of getting past the cave. The way I consider best is used in the description and the alternatives are at the end.

Start: Start at the base of diagonal ramp that 'Sluice' and other routes scramble up. For this route, it is probably easier to belay from the ground than to set up a belay at the top of the ramp.

  1. 35m (10) Follow the ramp then up the corner that is the continuation of the ramp until able to move R to belay in the large cave.

  2. 25m (10) Move out the next hole along from the one you entered by (feels ridiculously exposed) climb the pillar on the L (facing the cliff), with poor protection at first (crux). Continue up buttress to a ledge. Rope drag and communication can be difficulties. (Variants 2a. (10) Instead of traversing R into the cave, continue up the corner and move back R above the cave. Move R-wards to rejoin the route. 2b. Move back out of the hole that the cave was entered from and climb the rib to the R (facing the cliff).)

  3. 35m (-) Up a series of walls to another large cave which these days is increasingly frequented by boulderers (Ground Control Caves) so you might feel a bit over-dressed with a rope on!

  4. 20m (-) Either traverse L for 10m to rappel anchors or continue to top.

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Steve Craddock, Sue Priestly, John Cargill (var) and Bob Craddock, Jerry Grandage Easter., 1965

Location:  

Located in Grey and Green Walls approx:
Long/Lat: 142.385229,-36.894367

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

10 * Grampians Selected Climbs
10 * * ACA Route Register
10 ** Mount Stapylton Amphitheatre
8 A Rock Climbers Guide to the North Grampians
9 Principal

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

good great fun exciting bad cruisy jugs

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