Exit Strategy 22

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Well protected moves up an impressive and steep wall. Seconds should take prussics and/or not unclip the first bolt until it is at their waist. Gear: take a standard trad rack with a set of wires and cams. A large cam is needed for the Simpleton roof, and save a medium to large cam (BD#2 or Friend #3) for the final horizontal break. Start: as for Simpleton, from the ledge below Missing.

1. (43m, 18, 1 bolts) Follow Simpleton up to the cave and continue around the roof and up the corner. Where Simpleton steps right, continue up the orange corner. Tricky moves (might be 19) lead to a DRB belay in the corner at a tiny stance.

2. (20m, 22, 2 bolts) Squeeze past your belayer and make subtle moves up the corner to a horizontal break (cams 20-30mm). Left and up to a flake and bolt. Up to another small flake, finger traverse left to a bolt, then left and up to horizontal break. Exit left onto the arête for a rest. Up the steep but easier grey wall to the chains.