Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Daves' Cave | |||||
V7 | ★ Cold Feet
Sit start off the pedestal left of Snow Mike, bust straight out the roof with some tension before topping out the cliff. FA: Callum Mather | 5m | |||
V10 | ★★ Snow mike
Low start in cave. Big moves lead to finish jug above boulder. The extension is V7 on its own. | ||||
V10 | ★ Possum Overhang
Left line of slopers through roof to jugs. Traverse right, up to next level and back left to jug. | 8m | |||
V6 | ★ Harper, Angus and Luca’s giganormus love
Start at possum overhang, make moves into undercling and then pop out right into tim and kyles big love. FA: Angus Fuller, 25 Sep 2022 | ||||
V6 | Tim and Kyles Big Love
Sit start to central line through roof to join PO. | 7m | |||
V3 | Mary's
Sit start to right hand line through roof joining PO. | 6m | |||
Northern Wall | |||||
21 | Roll Call
Up past FH and gear to ledge, out through roof (FH), then veer left up nice grey wall. Up to and along the final left leading wide crack below roof. FA: Goshen Watts & Chris Leidy, 26 Nov 2016 | 38m, 2 | |||
21 | ★ Schools Out
Starting from the ground, up past FH to ledge, out through roof past 2nd FH, then veer right and straight up the featured orange/grey wall finishing steeply through jugs (careful what you pull on). Finish at abseil point. FA: Goshen Watts & Jimmy, 28 Feb 2016 | 30m | |||
16 | ★ Fried Lichen
Not bad for the grade... Takes the RH arete of buttress. Starts up on the ledge, so you have to do a short pitch up the start of SO, or roped traverse in from the Kindergarten (about Gr 15). Up corner on R (3m R of SO), then step left to arete. Up this, before trending R towards the top to finish R of arete (Don't go direct to the rap point as there are some dangerous blocks). FA: Goshen Watts & Abby Watkins, 29 Feb 2016 | 20m | |||
18 | Whitey on the Moon
The easiest line to the top and is a bit more worthwhile if climbed from the ground. Start directly under LHS of wall, up to mantle onto small ledge, then up steep but easy wall to main ledge. Stretch to clip FH, then straight up wall / grooves to top. Rap down into gully as for Birth of the Cool. FA: Jan 2022 | 30m, 1 | |||
15 | Baby Skink
Probably to be unrepeated since access has been cleaned up for the climbs on the ledge! Up chossy looking corner 10m L of 'large hole in roof'. FA: Abby Watkins & Goshen Watts, 29 Feb 2016 | 10m | |||
20 | ★ Cool Connections
Interesting wall climbing, culminating in a nice finger crack on the L side of the headwall. Due to the convoluted nature of the wall, it's worth scoping out your route before you start. On the LHS of the blank overhanging wall (on ledge BELOW Agent of Cool) is a scoop (FH) which you can climb to a stance. Now keep trending up and R across wall (ignore the easier finish straight up) to an unlikely move up to shallow corner. Up to horizontal breaks, finishing via finger crack. FA: Goshen Watts & Abby Watkins, 29 Feb 2016 | 25m, 1 | |||
24 | ★★★ Moon Dreams
Exhilarating climbing up the middle of the wall. Not trivial to find the route and gear on the traverse. Access via the start of CC (FH), traverse across wall to FH, then up short crack to hard moves R past FH, and awesome final headwall. Gear to size 2, camalot. FA: Goshen Watts & Troy Mckenzie, 4 Apr 2017 | 30m, 3 | |||
25 | ★★★ Under the Sun
As for Moon Dreams to juggy horizontal break; then R past flakes via a big move, then straight up amazing wall. Resist the urge to climb into diagonal crack - finish straight up. Takes lots of nuts, and a few small cams. Add a grade if climbed placing gear. FA: Goshen Watts, 1 Nov 2021 | 30m | |||
23 | ★★ Death to All Actors
Song from Melbourne Duo 'Time for Dreams'. ...the luminous Amanda Roff muses, “when I wrote the song I was thinking of Norman Mailer’s “Ancient Evenings” where at one point in the afterlife you must swim through a river of actual human shit”. (which might explain the first pitch of AE)!? Start as for Moon Dreams - across to FH on wall, then R to 2nd FH over lip of roof (and a hidden hold). Now up and R through steep terrain / horizontals (ignore thread on AE) and up to Arete and welcome jugs even bigger than those on the rest of the route. A pretty cool excursion. Trad belay - rap down into gully from higher rap station on pillar. Take med-large nuts and cams to size 1. FA: Goshen Watts, 10 Jan 2022 | 40m, 3 | |||
22 | ★ Cool Evenings
A bit of a link-up, with the other routes on this wall providing easier access than the wide crack!
FA: Goshen Watts & Chris Leidy, 7 Feb 2016 | 40m, 2 | |||
24 | Ancient Evenings
Looks like a sensational overhanging headwall; but has a very difficult crux move. Start as for Cool Intentions in the major chasm just left of Agent of Cool.
FA: Nick White & Richard Smith Early's, 1990 FA: 1990 | 30m, 2 | |||
21 | Cool Intentions
A movie out at the time was called Cruel Intentions. Start: Start by scrambling down to a platform of rock just below and to the left of BOTC. Climb takes the obvious (wide) left leading crack. Then head straight up wall (just before arete), past small hanging corner, and up wall past a FH. NOTE: The 2016 Gramps guide has the topo wrong - the route pictured in the guide is Ancient Evenings, and not this route. FA: Dave Jupp, 1998 | 25m | |||
17 | Birth of the Cool
Up the wall. A few meters up there is a sickle shaped crack/pod that takes a bomber #7 rock. Up on natural gear. Take care with the juggy rock near the top, as some of it is a little fragile. Rap from the big penis-shaped bollard. Start: Start on the left wall of the gully, a few metres right of the start of the distinctive horizontal break. FA: Tim Marsh, 1998 | 20m | |||
24 | Pressure Drop Direct
As soon as you are out of the scoop and onto the face look up. 2 FH take you through the lovely rippling grey wall above. Finish at the ledge, with another chain/ring combo (50m rope is long enough to lower off). Start: Start as for 'Pressure Drop'. FA: Tim Marsh, 1998 | 22m | |||
22 | ★ Pressure Drop
An old Jamaican ska song, but also descriptive of the relief felt by the first ascentionist after finally ticking it, just as a cool front rolled through on a hot day. Start: Start at the back of the gully on the same wall as, and about 15m L of, 'Agent of Cool'. FA: Tim Marsh, 1998 | 25m | |||
31 | Agent of Cool
A fantastic natural line that was one of the 'last great lines' in the Grampians until Lee Cossey put a few days work into it and freed it in November 2015. Start: On the right wall of the gully, about 15m L of 'Neptune' pitch 2, is this striking overhung curving corner/crack. Up tips finger crack to crux move from crimpy pinch to big huecos above the sickle, monkey right into the crack (drop the rope back to the belayer - or use double rope technique - to avoid heinous drag) and blast upwards to glory. First ascent https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cCljblIsMYk FFA: Lee Cossey, Nov 2015 | 25m | |||
25 | ★ Panic Attacks
Start: Overhung bolted groove (22/23) leading to roof about 10m left of 'Trident'. Traverse right then hard out through roof. FA: Kent Paterson | ||||
14 | Neptune
Good face climbing but a long approach. Start: Start as for 'Trident'.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 2007 | 50m, 2 | |||
19 | Plastic People
Was almost going to call it YACSAFT (yet another climb starting as for Trident) but that would be silly. This climb was originally approached from the ground but the approach is long and quite easy and mostly climbed by other routes. It is best approached via the 'Trident' area abseil after doing another climb. Start: Start on the large ledge on the left below the overhang about 12m down the abseil. FA: Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran (alt) & Ray Lassman, 2006 | 12m | |||
20 | ★ It's My Brain Again
Good face climbing on pockets on the second pitch. Could be straightened out at the top. Start: Start as for 'Trident'.
FA: Peter Canning & Kieran Loughran, 1992 | 50m, 2 | |||
16 | ★★ Prong
The best way to finish 'Trident', as you would expect from two masters of stone! Enormous holds providing the opportunity to move through some unusually steep terrain at the grade. Start: Start as for 'Trident'.
FA: Kieran Loughran & Malcolm Matheson, 1991 | 50m, 2 | |||
17 | Pitchfork Variations
Contrived but enjoyable. Start: Start at the first belay of 'Trident' (i.e. do pitch 1 of 'Trident' first). FA: Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 1993 | 20m | |||
14 | ★★ Trident
"Continuously steep between the vertical and the overhanging", Speedie. A very interesting angle and a bloody good climb. One of the best of its grade. Consistently difficult and strenuous, can be done in one pitch if double ropes are used. Start: Find the "T" inscription at the corner 15m L of Zola and just R of the large overhang.
FA: Ian Speedie, John Mclean & Nick White(not the English Nick White-he was probably still in nappies!), 1965 | 40m, 2 | |||
18 | Sternold
Good climbing, with funky moves around the overhang which would have been hard to protect before small cams. Start: Start as for 'Trident', i.e. start at the crack line about 15m L of Zola.
FA: Keith Egerton & Jeremy Boreham, 1977 | 35m, 2 | |||
21 | ★ Mr Keith
A good climb based on 'Sternold'. Be careful with rope management around the 'Sternold' overhang. Start: Start 2 metres right of 'Trident'. Up face (FH) to ledge (some poor rock) at 8 metres. Climb directly through the overhang (small cams) and up the easier corner to a small stance on the right. Move back left and climb the steep headwall (2FH). Will probably need to go back some distance to belay (not included in length) FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth & Keith Lockwood, 2007 FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth & Keith Lockwood., 2007 | 33m, 3 | |||
20 | ★ Zola
Start: Start 4m L of 'Spinoza' and about 15m R of 'Trident'. After negotiating the bulges at the start, this wall offers a number of ways to meander upwards via numerous brittle jugs. FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1990 | 40m | |||
23 | ★ Spinoza
The definitive word on ethics? Wall 4m R of Zola. Originally done in 2 pitches but pitch 2 is worthless and it is now a 1 pitch sport route. Start: Start 4m down L of 'Starstruck'. FA: Kieran Loughran, Simon Mentz & Louise Shepherd, 1991 | 20m | |||
21 | Starstruck
Unusual groove climbing on the first pitch. Rarely, if ever, repeated. Protection looks a problem but climbing looks good. Start: Start a few metres L of 'Germinal' at the scooped line (4m up R of Spinoza).
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Glenn Tempest, 1977 | 50m, 2 | |||
20 | ★★ Another non violent action
Climbs the wall L of Germinal (can be done in one pitch with creative rope management). Climb pitch 1 of Germinal. Delicate traverse L above roof to shallow crack in middle of the wall. Arrange gear and launch up awesome wall above, keeping slightly R on the orange rock. Finish up and L. FA: Goshen Watts & Dick Lodge, 1 Jan 2018 | 40m | |||
17 | ★★ Germinal
An old classic with a tough crux. Often done in 1 pitch. Start: Start beneath the major but strangely scooped line up the prominent sheer orange/grey wall at the foot, and to the left, of the descent gully. This is at the L edge of the jumble of flakes and blocks.
FA: Ian Guild & Chris Davis, 1965 | 37m, 2 | |||
26 | ★ Land of Enchantment
Looks wonderful but rarely repeated...it has handed out some spankings so may be rather solid. The bolts are those funny hanging ring jobbies and are rather old, plus the abseil sling needs replacing with a decent anchor. Ascends the golden wall L of the descent gully, between the upper sections of 'Asterisk' and 'Germinal'. Start: Get to the start by soloing across a ledge from 10m up the descent gully. Alternatively, the initial cracks of 'Asterisk' are reputed to be a good warm-up approach. FA: Andy Pollitt, 1990 | 25m | |||
20 | Asterisk
Quite attractive, with some good moves. Protection is good even though the old bolts are terrible. Originally two pitches but better done as one. Start: Scramble R from the foot of 'Germinal' along the vertical wafers leaning against the main wall, to a flake crack. Belay in the chasm just right of 'Germinal' at an old initial "A".
FA: Phillip Seccombe, Ian Speedie. FA Glenn Tempest & Kevin Lindorff 1977., 1966 | 24m, 2 | |||
16 | ★ Wooden Heart
Middle of face left of 'SyntheticSpine'. There's also a medium wir below the final bolt. FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth & Ray Lassman, 2006 | 20m, 4 | |||
15 | ★ Synthetic Spine
It's nice to climb a pinnacle that has no easy way up. Final mantle might be solid for the grade. Start: Start about 10m L of the foot of the gully, about 10m around R of 'Germinal'. This route climbs the south-west arete of the square pinnacle that squats at the foot of the descent gully. FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1991 | 15m, 2 | |||
Central Buttress | |||||
10 | Incisor
A major geological feature. Start: Start beneath the prominent chimney.
FA: Keith Egerton & John Chapman, 1975 | 60m, 2 | |||
16 | Tough Tusk
Arete right of 'Incisor'. Take lots of slings for the creaking jugs. Start: As for 'Incisor'
FA: Keith Lockwood, Ray Lassman & Tim Lockwood, 2006 | 65m, 2 | |||
20 | Synchronised Tractor Maintenance
Quite good really, but the crux is a little intense. Should be OK now that the dust has cleared. Start: Start as for 'Incisor'.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman & Norm Booth, 1995 | 33m, 2 | |||
22 | Empty Pockets
This excellent buttress has been done in one pitch (not on the first ascent) but that placed the second at serious risk on the start. Add some slings, cams to #2½ and a handful of wires to the rack. Some think that the climb is worthless, that may be due to style or aesthetic preferences but they may be right. Make up your own mind. Start: Start below slabby groove about 10m L of 'Strela', just R of the foot of the major Amphitheatre 'Gully'.
FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1995 | 40m, 2 | |||
18 | Indentured
Generally nice climbing with a spectacular move through the overhang near the top, but spoiled by the first 10m shared with 'Strela'. Could improve with traffic. On the FA, the overhang at the top was avoided by traversing right and climbing easy ground to finish up a steep flake left of the finish of "Strela". The overhang was added by the team doing the variant start. Start: Start as for "Strela", the first chimney-line R of the foot of the Amphitheatre 'Gully'.
FA: Kieran Loughran & Bill Andrews, 1994 | 70m, 3 | |||
21 | Indentured (Variant Start)
Big slopes. Start: Start 1m L of the original start. FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth & Keith Lockwood, 1994 | 25m | |||
14 | Strela
Not a classic. The first of the major chimney lines accessible without scrambling up the descent gully. The length of this climb is preposterous but it wasn't worth repeating in full to correct the description. If you wish to do so, go ahead. The various possible lines at the top of 'Strela' have all been done as variants to 'Indentured', 'Strela' and 'Filling'. Start: Start at the first chimney line R of the foot of the descent gully.
FA: Dave Oldfield & John Rogers (Alt), 1967 | 100m, 4 | |||
16 | Wisdom Teeth
Pitches 1 and 2 could be run together.
FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong alts, 2013 | 80m, 4 | |||
16 | ★ Filling
Good, though the early part of the first pitch is a bit contrived. Poorly protected in spots. All pitches are about the same grade though pitch three is probably the most serious. Abseil as for 'Simpleton' or walk-off. Start: Start at a small groove 3m L of 'Molar Buttress'.
FA: Peter Martin & Steve Jones (alt), 1989 | 76m, 3 | |||
12 | ★ Molar Buttress
1
12
35m
2
9
15m
3
12
25m
4
12
25m
Something to get its teeth into you. The start and finish are enjoyable, but the middle pitches are weird, spooky and poorly protected. Take a double-length sling. Start: Start 9m R of 'Strela' at the initials "MB" below a groove.
FA: Steve Craddock & Sue Priestly (alt) Easter, 1965 | 100m, 4 | |||
12 | ★★ Toothless Tigers
Nice arête 2m right of 'Molar Buttress', between 'Molar Buttress' and 'Herbal Sin'. Start: Just to the right of the first pitch of 'Molar Buttress', below the right arete of a groove. FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran, Joe Cook, Peter Watling & Ray Lassman., 2005 | 25m | |||
21 | Herbal Sin
An impressive overhang. Originally graded 17! Not too hard but you'ld get a nasty thump if you fell off the crux. Start: Start 4m R of 'Molar Buttress'. FA: Jared McCulloch & Peter Martin., 1989 | 20m | |||
22 | ★ Disco Dilemma
Great sport first pitch and OK trad second pitch. "And she's begging you please not to tease her with reason, Cause all she wants to do is dance. You're in a Disco Dilemma", Mike Rudd Start: Two metres right of Herbal Sim below diagonal groove.
FA: Kieran | 35m, 2, 5 | |||
17 | Gross Encounters
Not a popular concept. Takes the corner out L of the main 'Simpleton' corner with a loose crux. Start: There is a chimney/gully 10m R of Molar Buttress; start 1m R of this gully.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Phillip Armstrong (alt) & Peter Newman, 1979 | 80m, 3 | |||
22 | ★ Exit Strategy
20m of new climbing, traversing out left from Simpleton, up an impressive looking wall. Some of the rock is unsettlingly hollow or cracked, which may appeal to some. Seconds should take prussics and/or not unclip the first bolt until it is at their waist if this is at their limit. To get to the start of this pitch, follow Simpleton up to the cave and continue around the roof and up the corner. You want to stop and build a belay at the small corner/ledge below the Simpleton belay (if you get to the old carrot you have gone a few metres too far). Start: Make subtle moves up the corner to a horizontal break (cams 20-30mm). Left and up to a flake and bolt. Up to another small flake, finger traverse left to a bolt, then left and up to horizontal break. Exit left onto the arête for a rest. Up the steep but easier grey wall to the chains. FFA: Steve Toal & Paula Greene, 2012 | 63m, 2, 2 | |||
18 | ★★★ Simpleton
A magnificent climb up a great line. The first pitch can be avoided by scrambling up the slabs below 'Technical Ecstasy' and traversing in. Do the finish as described (it's worth it) and save the obvious finish for 'Technical Ecstasy'. Take 1 or 2 large cams (e.g. #4 or #5 camalot). Start: Start as for 'Gross Encounters', 1m R of gully.
FA: Chris Dewhirst, Ian Guild & Michael Stone. FA Dave Mudie 1975, 1966 | 85m, 3, 2 | |||
26 | ★★ Present
Slabba-dabba-do! An absorbing, exacting and extremely long pitch. The lengthy co-crux slab sections are unique for the 'Grampians'. Take 6 brackets, cams from micro to #3, and a few wires. There's ledge-fall potential at the 2nd FH (oops). A retrobolt above the 1st bolt (and shifting the 1st bolt a bit lower) would be welcomed. Until then, a quick safer option is to scoot up the easy first 8m of 'Simpleton', walk R to Present's 3rd bolt, and lower off it to pre-clip/pre-extend the 2nd bolt. You could also climb this as a fantastic 24/5 by starting up 'Simpleton' and linking into this pitch at the 3rd bolt. Start: Scramble up to the ledge/terrace, 2-3m R of 'Simpleton', and 8m L of the start of 'Missing'. Straight up between Simpleton & Missing, past 2 FHs, 5 carrots (glue-in stainless) & Missing's crux bolt. Join Missing only for a bodylength, namely it's crux. Up high, stay 3-4m R of Simpleton until almost at the capping roof. If your rope is "only" 60m long, you may wish to belay here to avoid simul-climbing 5m. Finish out the roof of Technical Ecstasy. Set: Will Monks FA: Kevin Lindorff, Michael O'Reilly & Steve Chapman | 65m, 8 | |||
23 | ★★★ Missing
A beautiful thin line leads to a large roof at the top of the cliff. You have to be good at placing RPs and other small wires, although the advent of microcams is a boon for this route. Take a rack up to #3½ cam, add 2 sets of RPs and plenty of microcams, a couple of extra middle-size cams for belays, thin sling and many quickdraws. A bolt was placed on the first pitch around 1996 because the original starting stump disintegrated. Start: Start by scrambling up 'Technical Ecstasy' for 15m to a terrace on the L where the real climbing starts.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman March-April. Dave Vass made the first lead of pitch 1, before any fixed gear existed. 1st continuous ascent Steve Monks & Louise Shepherd 1989., 1988 | 75m, 3, 2 | |||
23 | ★★★ Technical Ecstasy Direct
Might get bumped up a grade once the third ascentionist gets back from cleaning his undies to give us his thoughts. The 18m of new climbing is only 2-4m L of the original second pitch, and can be escaped at a few spots. Otherwise, this version of the second pitch is every bit as good as the magnificent second pitch of 'Missing'. Start: Start as for TE. 1) (25m 18) Do a short version of pitch 1 of TE, belaying above the great initial vertical crack, 5m below the fat flakes. 2) (35m 23) Blast up the classy seam 2m L of the fat flakes, eventually rejoining the original second pitch for it's wild final cracks. Needs a full rack including a #8 hex, plus extra draws & multiples of micro-cams and micro-wires (and a good ability to place them!). Can be very well protected but gear is quite tricky in 1 or 2 spots. The direttissima finish to this pitch, through the bulge onto the top slab, was also done at bold 19 (and is shown in the ACA topo) but the original finish is better. 3) (15m 18) As per the original. FA: Kevin Lindorff, Will Monks (both lead crux & after TR rehearsal), 2009 | 70m | |||
20 R | ★★ Technical Ecstasy
Another great route with some pretty bold bits on the second pitch. Start: Start at the toe of the slabs 18m R of 'Simpleton', just L of a gully.
FA: Glenn Tempest & Kevin Lindorff, 1977 | 90m, 3 | |||
18 | ★ Mania
Good, but not in the same class as the other climbs here. Apparently it should have been called 'Maniac'. Start: Start as for 'Technical Ecstasy'.
FA: Tim Hancock, Peter McKeand 20.8.70, finishing by long traverse L to roof of Technical Ecstasy. As described: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman. First pitch variant: Joel Malady & Michael Sim December 1995., 1988 | 97m, 3 | |||
18 | Mania Direct Finish
| 20m | |||
23 | Imbecile
Very reachy, add two grades if you're less than 190cm tall. The original climb bashed its way up to gain the line R of 'Mania' and followed this line until 24m below the top then aided the final pitch. Start: The advisable approach is to abseil from the top of 'Mania' into the gully R of 'Mania' and do the final pitch. FA: Andrew Thomson, Adrian Davey 19.8.70. FA Simon Mentz, Kieran Loughran & Louise Shepherd., 1991 | 91m, 2 | |||
15 | Cerambycid
Probably worthwhile at the grade. The route originally started as for 'Imbecile' but the route is described here with a better start. Start: Start about 10m R of 'Mania', and 5m R of gully.
FA: Andrew Thomson, Joe Friend. (pitch 1 as described: Allan Hope). (Horrible gully start: Derek Vissor, Ann Scholes).(Second Pitch variant: Ray Lassman & Kieran Loughran)., 2006 | 96m, 3 | |||
17 | ★ Cul De Sac
Clean slab/wall climbing all the way up to the chains on TSIC. Two BRs (hangers required!) and an assortment of cams and trad gear. Slightly contrived at the start, the hard moves past the first bolt can be avoided by easier climbing to the left, but delightful above. The second bolt is hidden until you get right to it! Start: Five or six metres left of This Structure is closed (very contrived). Alt start - might be better starting immediately L of SIC, then trending up L towards the bolt and onwards. Won't be as contrived this way, and gear will run straighter. FA: Keith Lockwood & Peter Canning, 2000 | 35m | |||
16 | ★★ This Structure is Closed
Despite being an excellent pitch up a superb line, this climb is over 1m high and has no hand-rails. It takes the great corner leading to the right side of the huge overhangs on 'Central Buttress'. Protection is excellent (double up cams to #2½ and throw in some larger ones for luck). Originally graded 17 it has cleaned up with traffic. Start: Start about 30m R of 'Mania' et al on a boulder below the R edge of the corner. FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1999 | 35m | |||
14 | The Long Paddock
A nice word, paddock: very evocative. Not a bad climb either. A #4 cam would be handy on the final pitch. Start: Start below the above-noted alcove (about 50m R of Cerambycid).
FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1995 | 75m, 4 | |||
22 | ★ Body Bath
Probably quite good and certainly unusual. Awkward climbing up the peapods leads to a solid, overhanging corner. A number of Aliens or similar tiny cams are needed to protect the hard move out of the peapods and protection is otherwise excellent. Start: Start beneath the alcove, just R of 'The Long Paddock'. FA: Louise Shepherd & Simon Mentz, 1991 | 15m | |||
15 R | Median
Would be a reasonable, long beginners' climb if not for the ridiculously hard [and hard to protect] move around the bulge to start which is out of character with everything else on the route. After that it's hard to work out where it goes, but the climbing is generally easy. Start: Start 10m around R of 'Body Bath'. The original description says that it starts behind a pine tree. That was 40 years ago. There is a dead pine tree resting amongst the gum trees where I think this climb starts. There used to be a dead pine tree just L of 'The Long Paddock'. I wonder if the M was put there by the first ascent party or just a guidebook editor who thought they had worked out where the route went?
FA: Sue Priestly & Steve Craddock (alt) Easter., 1965 | 79m, 3 | |||
15 R | Sunstruck
Essentially a variant finish to 'Median' except that it exaggerates the length, but it's hard to work out where it goes. Possibly only 10m of independent climbing. See comments for Median re the start. Start: Start as for 'Median'.
FA: D.Smalley & D.Holroyd (alt), 1974 | 120m, 4 | |||
Sabre Gully | |||||
15 | Glory Without Power
Could be more direct. Start: Start on the gully face of the 'Median' buttress around R of the overhang system. Just left of burnt out pine tree left of Grep at entrance of Chasm. Up the steep wall for 7m then left along horizontal to arête and face above. Abseil off rock bollard. Feb 2019 - access blocked by new baby trees growing at base. Could possibly step across onto face from ledge with burnt out pine tree on R, but this cuts out the first 2m of the climb. FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1991 | 15m | |||
16 | Grep
Lovely arete that is too short but good warm-up. 'Arete' leading to tree at left end of ledge below the wall. FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman & Norm Booth Early., 2008 | 8m, 3 | |||
19 | Coolsville
An easy option. Start: Start below a groove below and L of the L-hand line. Step off boulder and climb the wall (FH) into an easy groove that leas to a ledge at 7m, up steep crack and follow it left to arête. Abseil anchor up right. FA: Kieran Loughran & Allan Hope, 1992 | 20m | |||
20 | ★ The Tenth Dancer
The survivor in a war of attrition. Double ropes (and knowing how to use them!) are helpful. Start: Start as for 'Coolsville' to ledge at 7m. Traverse right (medium hex), up right leaning crack. Rap anchor to the right. FA: Kieran Loughran & Keith Lockwood, 1994 | 25m | |||
Grey and Green Walls Petite Fleur Face | |||||
14 | Petite Fleur
Looks elegant but the corner is hideously awkward and difficult to protect. Maybe medium-large hexes would help. Start: Start at the far left side of the 'Petite Fleur' face beneath the gloomy corner. FA: Michael Stone, Gary Kerkin & Ian Speedie, 1965 | 10m | |||
17 | The Walltower Castle (Direct Start)
A boulder problem that might ease when the R-hand crack is dry. Start: Start beneath the twin cracks of Watchtower Castle's first pitch. FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth., 1993 | 20m | |||
13 | The Walltower Castle (lst Pitch)
A tricky start leads to enjoyable climbing. Start: Start just R of the twin cracks, 15m R of 'Petite Fleur'. | 20m | |||
20 | ★ La Balance
Puts the "F" back into 'Grampians' slabs. Take #1½, #3½ cams. Start: Start below incipient flake 4m R of 'Petite Fleur'. FA: Kieran Loughran, Ed Neve & Norm Booth, 1993 | 20m | |||
19 | ★ Baby Doll
Nice climbing. Take large cams. Short people may need cams to protect the start. The finishes of 'Baby Doll' and 'La Balance' have been swapped to give more consistent routes (i.e. they cross each other about three quarters of the way up). Start: Start a few m L of 'The Walltower Castle' and 4m R of 'La Balance'. FA: Kieran Loughran & Malcolm Matheson, 1991 | 20m | |||
19 | Blank Frank
Don't take it too seriously. Most often done these days as the first pitch to Navigator. Start: Start as for Walltower Castle. FA: Kieran Loughran & Malcolm Matheson, 1991 | 20m | |||
22 | Digital Technique
Rising left leading thin face starting off boulder in middle of wall, right of small gum tree. Stick clip first bolt. 2 bolt lower off FFA: Steve & Amanda Holloway, 2013 | 10m, 4 | |||
23 | ★ All Mod Cons
start about 4m left of The Great Foaming Espresso Machine/ Shining Path. Stick clip the first bolt. Up past this and two more to a fixed anchor. FA: Kevin Lindorff | 12m, 3 | |||
19 | ★★ The Great Foaming Expresso Machine
Start: Start below and R of the corner, about 8m right of 'Blank Frank'. A devious approach leads to the attractive shallow corner halfway up toward the right side of the wall. Recently retro-bolted with permission of FA. 2-U belay on terrace. FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 1993 | 10m, 3 | |||
22 | ★★ Bird In The Hand
Variant finish to HTTM. Traverse left on pockets under third BR finishing up flake. Please respect the hanging oversized bonsai! FA: Paul Geil, 2014 | 10m, 3 | |||
21 | Hot Tub Time Machine
Just right of TGFEM. Up pocketed slab passing 3 FH and finishing up flake on right. Mantle to DB lower off. Please respect the oversized bonsai! FA: Paul Geil, Steve Holloway & Bernard Wrangle, 2014 | 10m, 3 | |||
22 | ★ Spillway (Direct Start)
Bouldery. Start: Start up the ramp R of 'The Great Foaming Expresso Machine', directly below the groove of 'Spillway' (R of a large bush overhanging the top of this wall). FA: Kieran Loughran & Bert Levy, 1990 | 10m | |||
19 | ★★ Spillway-Sluice-Sweet Dreams
| 110m | |||
Grey and Green Walls The Grey Wall | |||||
11 | ★★ The Crank
An easy classic. The finishing chimney is desperate and the grade is given for the easier alternative. Start: Start below the easy corner 20m L of 'Petite Fleur'.
FA: Ian Guild & John McLean(var) Easter., 1965 | 110m, 5 | |||
14 | ★★ The Crank Variant
| ||||
12 | The Crank Direct Finish
| 25m | |||
15 | ★ Satanic Bloodsucker On A Horse
Forget it. Lots of walking along ledges with a few bits of delicate climbing in between. Take a walking track if this is the best thing you can think of. Start: Start as for 'The Crank'.
FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Thomson (alt), 1973 | 170m, 4 | |||
18 | ★★ Grace Before Meals
Wanders a bit but offers a lot of good climbing at the grade. The second pitch is excellent, the 3rd pitch and start of the 4th pitch detract, but the steep juggy finish is great. Originally done with a worthless first pitch out L of 'Petite Fleur' and finished up what is described here as the final pitch of 'Sabre'. The final pitch was originally done as 'The Crank' 'Direct Finish'. Start: Start as for 'Petite Fleur' (see the separate page for 'Petite Fleur' Wall).
FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1990 | 90m, 4 | |||
18 R | ★ Sabre
A full-frontal assault on the Grey Wall. Relatively unsung, the third pitch is a pretty impressive effort for 1966 and still gives modern climbers something to think about. Large cams are needed. The route originally started up 'Petite Fleur' and finished up 'The Crank'. The finish as described was the original finish of 'Grace Before Meals'. Start: Start as for 'Baby Doll', 8m R of 'Petite Fleur', 3m L of twin cracks.
FA: Jerry Grandage, Darryl Carr & Ann Richardson (var), 1966 | 86m, 4 | |||
18 | Vertical Limit
A reasonable route which fills in the space between 'Sabre' and Walltower Castle Start: Start at the arete just left of P2 of Walltower Castle.
FA: P1 James McIntosh, Aaron Campbell, Robin Holmes. P2 James McIntosh, Glen Donohue & 25/9/99., 1999 | 65m, 2 | |||
Grey and Green Walls The Green Wall | |||||
14 | The Walltower Castle
Some good positions but really filthy climbing on the 2nd pitch. Start: Start about 15m R of 'Petite Fleur', just R of twin cracks.
FA: Richard Schmidt & John McLean, 1966 | 74m, 3 | |||
19 R | Maybe Utah
Pointless and dangerous. Take all cams. Start: Start at the foot of pitch 2 of 'The Walltower Castle'. FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1991 | 20m | |||
22 | ★★★ The Navigator
1
19
20m
2
22
40m
3
20
20m
4
15
15m
5
19
25m
Good climbing all the way up one of the compelling features of The Amphitheatre. All cams, with doubles up to 2½. The final three pitches could be cut to two with careful rope, equipment and mental management. The reachy start to the second pitch has been tamed with a cairn, combined tactics would be a preferable solution. Start: Start as for 'The Walltower Castle'.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Jane Wilkinson used a wandering approach to the roof in. Loughran added (2) in November 1991. As described: Loughran & Keith Lockwood November 1995., 1990 | 120m, 5 | |||
19 | ★★ The Navigator Alternative Second Pitch
We've done this variation a couple of times over the last few years but was waiting until we could add a bolt and clean it up a bit. I much prefer this variation to the original desperate bouldery grade 22 crux. We also added a bolt to the belay at the top of this pitch to replace the (now) crappy-looking carrot. If you do The Navigator via this pitch it makes the whole climb grade 21. It starts up the short bottomless orange L-facing corner-crack about 2.5m L of the rap / belay rings and about 6m R of the original cairned start on the ledge. After the corner continue up the clean grey slab (drifting slightly L) for about 12m to the steepening and a bolt. Tricky moves gain the flakes as for the original pitch. Note that this pitch is 32m long and will require a 70m rope if you wish to lower or rap off it. FA: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, Nov 2014 | 32m, 1 | |||
19 | ★★ The Shining Path
This long sustained adventure is a classic at the grade. Starts as for the 'The Great Foaming Expresso Machine', which is in the middle of the Petite Fleur Face, L of its central green moss streak. Take a full trad rack (plus double cams) and a bunch of slings. The first and third pitches are sport and don't require trad gear. Every belay is U-bolted. You can climb to the top of the third pitch using a single 60m+ rope (two raps will get you to the ground from here) but you will need double ropes to complete the rest of the route. You'll also need double ropes for the rap descent. The rap descent chains are situated just 15m R of the finish of the climb. This route utilises 'The Great Foaming Expresso Machine' and parts of 'Sluice' and Gigi's Climb.
This route utilises 'The Great Foaming Expresso Machine' and parts of 'Sluice' and 'Gigis Climb'. FA: Glenn Tempest & Michael Hampton, 2013 | 110m, 5, 8 | |||
18 | ★ Politics of Plenty
Start as for Shining Path, following the brushed streak to the right. Committing slabbing with spaced cams to bolted anchors. FA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 2014 | 30m |