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You gotta love the lazy option! Instead of driving to some far flung part of the 'Grampians' you can explore what is close to your coffee, tent and esky. This guide records the new development that has occurred in the hidden crags within walking distance of the 'Mt Stapylton Campground' in the Northern 'Grampians' of Western 'Victoria'. Most of the better routes are steep bolted sport routes or easy short wall climbs on trad protection. The rock is coarse with a similar feel to the Blue Mountains and has patches of utter choss. If you are climbing on trad then take extra care as many of these routes have had limited repeats. If you want to clip bolts then this area is a great place to start your 'Grampians' experience. Leave your bolt plates at home - almost everything here is ring-bolted.

Don't chip, don't litter, don't shit at the crag (use toilets at campground), don't swear near tourists, don't drill within earshot of the campsite and lastly respect the Aboriginal art site by keeping your grubby mitts off nearby rock.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014

Here's an update from Parks Victoria (18 September 2015):

People – it has been a long time coming, and the recovering areas thank you for your patience. As of the 18th September, most of the climbing areas in the North Grampians still closed, will once again open. These areas though, are still fragile and deserve to have a little extra thought given, if and when you decide to head there. The Mt Difficult Range is still in a very fragile state and because of this, some of the closures here will remain in place, except for those cliffs listed. Check out the list below and please continue to read the care info following it. Thank you all in the climbing and bouldering community who have been understanding of the closures and have been actively promoting it to others. Lots of other areas have seen renewed interest. Whilst Nature will continue to throw these events at us, it is obvious that there are always enough cliffs and boulders to go around.

To aid the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians there is a general closure in place for rock climbing throughout the Mt Difficult Range, except for the main climbing areas stated below. Please support the long term recovery of fire affected areas by remaining out of any closed sites. See closure map for further detail. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected areas. Open and accessible rock climbing and bouldering areas in the Northern Grampians Hollow Mountain Area Barc Cliff
, Gunn Buttress
, Battlescarred Blocks / The Ammo Shop, Amnesty Wall Area
, Andersens
, Clicke Area (incl. Kindergarten routes) The Kindergarten (bouldering) Expedition Crag, 
Turtle Rocks, 
Sandinista Cliffs, 
Pensioners Wall Area, 
Red Wall Area incl Echoes Block, Loopeys
, Hollow Mountain Cave, 
Cut Lunch Walls
, Koalasquatsy Wall Tribute Wall
, The Dungeon, 
Bad Moon Rising Wall Van Dieman’s Land, Rambla Wall, A-Frame Boulder

Summerday Valley Flying Blind. Wall of Fools, Back Wall Bowler Boulder

*Note closures are in place to Main wall, Left wall, Bird wall and Calcutti crag and others east of Summerday Valley due to threatened plant species regeneration, cultural heritage protection and trail degradation.Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Northern Wall, Central Buttress, Sabre Gully, 
Grey and Green Walls, Taipan Wall Spurt Wall, 
Bouldering Buttress, Lower Taipan, 
Afterglow Wall, Afterglow Boulders
,The Plaza Strip,
The Snake Pit
, Trackside Boulders. Citadel
. Ground Control Caves, Cave Club, 
Between the Sheeps, Spurt Wall (Bouldering), The Titanic (Bouldering) Flat Rock Area West Flank / Wall of Fuels, Bellepheron Wall
,Epsilon Wall
,Bouldering Cloud Cuckoo Land
, Note: new access track between flat rock, the kindergarten and Andersons via Bellepheron wall. Mt Zero Area Pangaea Walls, Toolondo Waters, 
4 Cornered Crag, 
Mt Zero Summit Cliff, Mount Zero West Walls

Iskra Crag Flower Power Block, Shadow Buttress, Emu Crag
, Sunstroke Area
, Pigs in Space Buttress, Main West Face, Dolgoruki Wall First Tier, 
Second Tier, 
Third Tier
, North Western Outcrop, Eastern Walls 36 Chambers
, Dolgoruki Wall and Three Tiers

Asses Ears Area Sunset Crags, 
The Secret Crags
, Cherub Wall
, Maul Wall, 
Wallaby Rocks, 
Conifer Wall
, Geranium (Brim) Springs, Porcelain Wall
,Wallaby Rocks
,Joey Blocks

Pohlner track and Smith Road Area The Rust Bucket, Martini Rock, Worship Wall, Point 447 ,Bordel Buttress, Mt Emu The Crows Nest, The Eyrie
, The Unnamed Cliff, An Unnamed Cliff, Olive Grove, Cave Of Ghosts Cliffs, Ghost Block,
The Olive Cave,
The Ravine


Eastern Mt Difficult Range No Mans Land, Heatherlie Heights, Cape Canavera,l Woomera The Promised Land / The Pine Plantation, Cliff Lebanon,
The Heavens, 
Lower Heavens, Lunar Walls, The Tim Tams

North West Mt Difficult Range Sickle Wall
, Mawson Slab, 
Mt Difficult Cliff, Epaminondas Buttress, Troopers Creek Cliff, Mt Difficult Summit ,Mt Bloody Impossible Mt Stapylton Campground Cave
, Sentinel Wall
, The Guardhouse, Warden Wall , Campground Boulders, Titanic Boulder, Doddery Rock, Mt Pleasant
,The Rockwall Area ,Briggs Bluff Area

NE Mt Zero Range Golton Rocks -
Cave Cliff
, Wave Wall (aka The Sundeck) / The Sun Deck The Sun Gate,
Golton Wall, 
Gog-Magog Crag, 
Watchmen Wall, 
Coppermine Track Cliff


All these crags (apart from the bouldering) are accessed from a well worn track, but un-official, that leaves the south east corner of the Aboriginal Art Site carpark. Walk down the official loop track fro twenty metres before branching off to the right and into the bush. Within a few minutes you'll stumble upon the obvious free standing pillar of Mini 'Castle Crag'. The track to the other crags continues past this point (refer to map on this page).

© (nmonteith)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route
14 Homebrew Trad 9m

Flake crack and shallow corner 3m right of 'Lovedale'. Also written up by C.Barrett as Dadjoe in '06.

FA: Ben Wright, Peter Kello & William Swinson, 2005

5 Free Hangin Trad 12m

1 metre left of face with two FHs. Bridge between crack and sidewall, exit through the V break at the top of the crack.

FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Colless, 2006

16 Elizabeth Trad 10m

The wide crack right of Philip. Take a large cam (Camalot 4+).

FA: Jeremy Maddox & Philip Armstrong, 2001

12 Hunter Valley Trad 12m

Around left of OP&OH is another obvious corner line with an overhang at the top. The juggy cracks in the wall left of the corner then the line up the arete.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Jeremy Maddox, 2001

5 Sheila G Trad 12m

Another mega line - not. Use boulder to start and gain arete, up to jugs and over.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007

5 Philip Trad 10m

The easy chimney right of 'Rosehill'.

FA: Jeremy Maddox, 2001

14 Lovedale Trad 10m

The knobbly cracks up the wall just right of the start of 'Semillon'.

FA: Jeremy Maddox & Philip Armstrong, 2001

17 * Rosehill Trad 10m

Around right of the cave is an overhanging corner. Good jamming.

FA: Jeremy Maddox & Philip Armstrong, 2001


The third route with this name in the Grampians! Next crack in the block after Phillip. Crank up crack and over middle of the bulge. Gear is thin. Originally climbed by bailing right into 'Elizabeth' under the bulge 02-12-2006.

FA: Trevor Wall, Meily Effendy, Leigh Colless & Chris Tamavic, 2007

16 Semillon Trad 12m

Nice wall climbing up the left leading flake on the wall right of 'Elizabeth' finishing up the short hanging corner. Worth doing.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Jeremy Maddox, 2001

6 Alpine Experience Trad 12m

Optimistic. First corner right of Shiela G. Pull up into knobbly corner and work up on good holds. Pull up onto ledge and continue up bridging corner. Some holds are brittle.

FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Colless, 2007

16 Leigh's Right Trad 6m

Why was this bolted? 1m right of the previous route. Single FH up very short wall. Better to boulder this one.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007

18 * Mumjoy Trad 12m

In memory of Cameron's mother who died late 2006. Obvious V crack with slight roof left of OP&OH. Begin as of 'Hunter Valley', traversing right into crack past FH. Follow crack line into roof, move out left under roof following crack to the top. Second may have a swing - two ropes might be useful.

FA: Cameron Barrett, Leigh Colless & Chris Tamavic, 2006

16 Kymba Trad 12m

Contrived, with bolts right next to crack. Shallow cracks, right of fixed hangers, to pocket move to orange rock and straight up to finish at shallow V at top. Don't use boulder to start.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2006

Project Trad 8m

Single FH with red tag.

FA: Cameron ect?, 2000

14 Whinery Tour Trad 20m

Start as for OP&OH. Do the crux of that route, then traverse right above the void until able to finish up the next corner.

FA: Stu Dobbie, Jim Kane & Jack Lewis, 2005

6 Abbren Trad 8m

Crack line at far east end of cliff.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007


Accidently retro-bolted and written up by C.Barrett in '07. 5m right of 'Homebrew', good moves up orange wall. Up through double pock hole past FH to sidepulls, and straight up above horizontal break.

FA: Ben Wright & Peter Kello, 2005

14 * OP&OH Trad 12m

The corner starting above the left end of the roof of the cave. From the top of the large block haul into the line and up.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Jeremy Maddox, 2001


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Grade Route
15 Topple Tor Trad 15m

Scramble around the bottom of the broken buttresses for about 50 metres to an undercut, leaning stack. The steep southwest arête.

FA: Bedford

FA: Lyons & Gordon

FA: Gary, 2005

9 The First Post Trad 12m

Five metres left of the chimney. A nice short corner to a ledge. 'Escape' off right or thrutch up a wide crack to top.

FA: Gordon Bedford & Gary Lyons, 2005

16 Aware Trad 12m

Three metres right of the chimney. The steep crack through the bulge at the top.

FA: Gary Lyons & Gordon Bedford, 2005

15 Cold At Dawn Trad 12m

Five metres right of 'Aware'. The steep right facing flake crack.

FA: Gary Lyons & Gordon Bedford, 2005

12 Sentry Line Trad 15m

On the eastern face on the other side of the block directly over from 'Aware'. Starts in a small alcove. The narrow, left leaning crack that finishes the semi-circular break in the top overhang.

FA: Gary Lyons & Gordon Bedford, 2005

5 Sentry Arête Trad 12m

The right hand rib of the chimney.

FA: Gordon Bedford & Gary Lyons, 2005


Check out what is happening in Mt Stapylton Campground.