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Description

You gotta love the lazy option! Instead of driving to some far flung part of the 'Grampians' you can explore what is close to your coffee, tent and esky. This guide records the new development that has occurred in the hidden crags within walking distance of the 'Mt Stapylton Campground' in the Northern 'Grampians' of Western 'Victoria'. Most of the better routes are steep bolted sport routes or easy short wall climbs on trad protection. The rock is coarse with a similar feel to the Blue Mountains and has patches of utter choss. If you are climbing on trad then take extra care as many of these routes have had limited repeats. If you want to clip bolts then this area is a great place to start your 'Grampians' experience. Leave your bolt plates at home - almost everything here is ring-bolted.

Don't chip, don't litter, don't shit at the crag (use toilets at campground), don't swear near tourists, don't drill within earshot of the campsite and lastly respect the Aboriginal art site by keeping your grubby mitts off nearby rock.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues

As of September 2015 all Mt Stapylton Campground bouldering areas are closed to aid the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians following bushfires in January 2014. For more information visit:

http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/_data/assets/pdffile/0012/639678/Grampians-rock-climbing-update.pdf

By respecting these closures you are helping ensure the future of rock climbing in the area and the great work done by Parks Vic. By not respecting these closures you're being arrogant, disrespectful, and self-centred.

Thank you

© (nmonteith)

Approach

All these crags (apart from the bouldering) are accessed from a well worn track, but un-official, that leaves the south east corner of the Aboriginal Art Site carpark. Walk down the official loop track fro twenty metres before branching off to the right and into the bush. Within a few minutes you'll stumble upon the obvious free standing pillar of Mini 'Castle Crag'. The track to the other crags continues past this point (refer to map on this page).

© (nmonteith)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Areas

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Routes

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Grade Route

Flake crack and shallow corner 3m right of 'Lovedale'. Also written up by C.Barrett as Dadjoe in '06.

FA: Ben Wright, Peter Kello & William Swinson, 2005

1 metre left of face with two FHs. Bridge between crack and sidewall, exit through the V break at the top of the crack.

FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Colless, 2006

The wide crack right of Philip. Take a large cam (Camalot 4+).

FA: Jeremy Maddox & Philip Armstrong, 2001

Around left of OP&OH is another obvious corner line with an overhang at the top. The juggy cracks in the wall left of the corner then the line up the arete.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Jeremy Maddox, 2001

Another mega line - not. Use boulder to start and gain arete, up to jugs and over.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007

The easy chimney right of 'Rosehill'.

FA: Jeremy Maddox, 2001

The knobbly cracks up the wall just right of the start of 'Semillon'.

FA: Jeremy Maddox & Philip Armstrong, 2001

Around right of the cave is an overhanging corner. Good jamming.

FA: Jeremy Maddox & Philip Armstrong, 2001

The third route with this name in the Grampians! Next crack in the block after Phillip. Crank up crack and over middle of the bulge. Gear is thin. Originally climbed by bailing right into 'Elizabeth' under the bulge 02-12-2006.

FA: Trevor Wall, Meily Effendy, Leigh Colless & Chris Tamavic, 2007

Nice wall climbing up the left leading flake on the wall right of 'Elizabeth' finishing up the short hanging corner. Worth doing.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Jeremy Maddox, 2001

Optimistic. First corner right of Shiela G. Pull up into knobbly corner and work up on good holds. Pull up onto ledge and continue up bridging corner. Some holds are brittle.

FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Colless, 2007

Why was this bolted? 1m right of the previous route. Single FH up very short wall. Better to boulder this one.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007

In memory of Cameron's mother who died late 2006. Obvious V crack with slight roof left of OP&OH. Begin as of 'Hunter Valley', traversing right into crack past FH. Follow crack line into roof, move out left under roof following crack to the top. Second may have a swing - two ropes might be useful.

FA: Cameron Barrett, Leigh Colless & Chris Tamavic, 2006

Contrived, with bolts right next to crack. Shallow cracks, right of fixed hangers, to pocket move to orange rock and straight up to finish at shallow V at top. Don't use boulder to start.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2006

Single FH with red tag.

FA: Cameron ect?, 2000

Start as for OP&OH. Do the crux of that route, then traverse right above the void until able to finish up the next corner.

FA: Stu Dobbie, Jim Kane & Jack Lewis, 2005

Crack line at far east end of cliff.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007

Accidently retro-bolted and written up by C.Barrett in '07. 5m right of 'Homebrew', good moves up orange wall. Up through double pock hole past FH to sidepulls, and straight up above horizontal break.

FA: Ben Wright & Peter Kello, 2005

The corner starting above the left end of the roof of the cave. From the top of the large block haul into the line and up.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Jeremy Maddox, 2001

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Routes

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Scramble around the bottom of the broken buttresses for about 50 metres to an undercut, leaning stack. The steep southwest arête.

FA: Bedford

FA: Lyons & Gordon

FA: Gary, 2005

Five metres left of the chimney. A nice short corner to a ledge. 'Escape' off right or thrutch up a wide crack to top.

FA: Gordon Bedford & Gary Lyons, 2005

Three metres right of the chimney. The steep crack through the bulge at the top.

FA: Gary Lyons & Gordon Bedford, 2005

Five metres right of 'Aware'. The steep right facing flake crack.

FA: Gary Lyons & Gordon Bedford, 2005

On the eastern face on the other side of the block directly over from 'Aware'. Starts in a small alcove. The narrow, left leaning crack that finishes the semi-circular break in the top overhang.

FA: Gary Lyons & Gordon Bedford, 2005

The right hand rib of the chimney.

FA: Gordon Bedford & Gary Lyons, 2005

Activity

Check out what is happening in Mt Stapylton Campground.