Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Description

One of the more popular 'dry in any weather' venues for the mid grade sport climber. This is a large cave high up in the valley behind Stapylton campground with an easy flat walk-in. This area features short and very steep sport routes on coarse orange rock. A large viewing area makes this a fun place to hang out with a bunch of mates and watch the sun set whilst cranking some of the sweet routes. Be very careful on the access traverse into the cave, one slip and you're dead. In wet weather it is advised to rope up for the scramble traverse into the cave and exit by abseiling back out of the cave.

Crag gets late afternoon sun in summer and full sun from midday in winter.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from Mt Stapylton Campground

As of September 2015 all Mt Stapylton Campground bouldering areas are closed to aid the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians following bushfires in January 2014. For more information visit:

http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/_data/assets/pdffile/0012/639678/Grampians-rock-climbing-update.pdf

By respecting these closures you are helping ensure the future of rock climbing in the area and the great work done by Parks Vic. By not respecting these closures you're being arrogant, disrespectful, and self-centred.

Thank you

©

Approach

Park at the 'Mt Stapylton Campground' aboriginal shelter carpark (Cave of Ghosts) which is south from the camping area. Walk south east following small track on the east side of a vegetated creek. A few minutes into the walk you will pass an isolated pillar of rock 'Castle Crag' with a few ok trad routes on it. Keep following the track, walking along flat ground amongst ferns with minor cliffs and boulders on your left. After 5 minutes the track goes into gumtrees, keep walking in the same direction on a vague track for another few minutes. Spot the cave itself in front and to the left a little up the hill in the distance.Try and locate some rock cairns and follow these left up a gentle hill. Follow left branch of 'creek' up small rock gully on the left side of the cave until you can traverse directly right across exposed rock to get into the cave. Two RB's are positioned along this traverse to use as an anchor to belay people who may be scared of the traverse. The ringbolt can also be used to abseil out of the cave when the traverse is wet from rain.

GPS - 36.55.900s, 142.23.372e

© (nmonteith)

History

View timeline of historical ascents

Discovered by Neil Monteith & Joe Morgan in 2003 on a cold wet winter's day of misery. Drills arrived shortly after.

© (nmonteith)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
16 * Green Moon Sport 15m, 5

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

Set by Neil Monteith, 2012

2
10 R Easier Puzzle Trad 12m

Easy trad climbing on big jugs. Start at small corner break 2m left of 'Half Shark Half Man'. Follow corner to finish at ledge and HSHM anchors.

FA: Phil Neville, Joe Morgan-Payler & Michael Schedlberger, 2003

3
17 R * Half Shark Half Man Sport 14m, 3

Steep and juggy sport warm-up at the far left end of the cave. Starts halfway across the approach traverse at single u-bolt belay. Up through orange jugs and then grey cracked face. Runout between bolt 1 and 2 is a bit scary.

FA: Joe Morgan-Payler, Stephen Hawkshaw & Neil Monteith, 2003

4
23 ** Media Puzzle Sport 16m, 6

Good pumpy workout on nice orange rock. Starts at left end of cave at small well chalked rooflet. Stick-clip first bolt. Out left across crux roof past two RB's then up scoops on jugs (2 RB's) to good rest. Step right and thug through steep territory past final RB to jugs and DRB lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith, Joe Morgan-Payler & Jacqui Middleton, 2003

5

An excellent bonus finish to 'Media Puzzle'. From double ringbolts monkey upside down on jugs out right along the horizontal break for 4m past 2 extra FH's then up to chains (crux).

FA: Peter Daish & Damian Hall, 2003

6
23 * Far Lap Trad 25m

A long scary trad traverse from the fourth bolt on 'Media Puzzle' across to the first bolt in the roof on 'Antics'. The middle of the traverse is very un-protected, with ground fall potential very likely.

FA: Gareth Llewelin, Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith, 2005

7
Another Stupid Project Sport Project 10m

A bit stupid. Starts 2m right of Media Puzzle - up a few metres then traverse left across MP to anchor. Bolted by Monty in the dark ages.

8
25 * Makybe Diva Sport 7m

Short and brutal in true Nowra fashion. A direct start to 'Antics'. Starts 10m right of Media Puzzle at ground level. Three FH's. Either lower off first bolt on 'Antics' or continue outwards for the full grade 26 finish.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2004

9
22 * Roof of Doom Sport 35m

Anyone say girdle? A scuttling novelty route across a big roof. Originally attempted on trad – but after Neil pulled a huge block off the lip and plummeted headfirst onto the halfway ledge it was decided to bolt it. Climb to first bolt on 'Stepping on Snakes', traverse left across 'Army of Ants' to big ledge. Walk left across this to FH and keep going across line (big cams) to roof flake (FH). Out impressive 3m roof and up steep arete past RB to lower off bolts.

FA: Neil Monteith, Jacqui Middleton & Joe Morgan-Payler, 2003

10
Project (Open) Sport Project 10m

Line of FHs through roof left of 'Antics'. Attempted by a few - maybe 28+? Bolted by Monty in 2004.

FA: Equipped Neil Monteith, 2004

11
26 ** Antics Sport 14m, 5

Another HB signature roof route. Follow 'Army of Ants' to first bolt, then traverse left to ledge. Climb left leading roof flakes through 5m ceiling directly above the ledge past 4 FH's to lip. Back jump to clean. No anchor.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2003

12
26 ** Army of Ants Sport 15m, 5

Short, powerful and popular. Start just right of small arete in centre of cave at ground level. Don't wear slip-ons unless you're OK with losing a shoe mid-route! Thin reachy face to start precedes big dynamic moves up steep wall and finish via big scoopy roof 1 FH & 4 RB's. Lower off chain.

FA: Rohan Archibald, Neil Monteith & Jacqui Middleton, 2003

13
23 ** Stepping on Snakes Sport 14m, 5

Classic steep thugging. Mantle onto slab then up very steep horizontals to final roof dyno. Five RB's and double RB lower off. Watch your back when lowering off.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2002

14
22 * Screaming Barfies Sport 10m, 4

Easier start just right of SOS – then finish left as for SOS through the roof. 4 U-bolts.

FA: Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie, 2006

15
20 * Dwarf Pumper Sport 8m, 3

Self explanatory. Far right side of cave. A 'Nowra' style mini pumpfest. Three RB's up steep orange wall. Double RB lower off at top.

FA: Neil Monteith & Joe Morgan-Payler, 2002

Activity

Check out what is happening in Sentinel Cave.