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Access issues inherited from Mt Stapylton Campground

As of September 2015 all Mt Stapylton Campground bouldering areas are closed to aid the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians following bushfires in January 2014. For more information visit:

http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/_data/assets/pdffile/0012/639678/Grampians-rock-climbing-update.pdf

By respecting these closures you are helping ensure the future of rock climbing in the area and the great work done by Parks Vic. By not respecting these closures you're being arrogant, disrespectful, and self-centred.

Thank you

©

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V3 * Super Deluxe Boulder 4m

The straight up problem off the slot and edge.

2
V4 ** Ultra Deluxe Boulder 5m

Same start as previous problem but head right through the twin pockets then up through twin edges and top out.

3
V7 ** Inspector Gadget Boulder 4m

Long deadpoint to slopey crimp from slopey pockets.

FA: Matt Adams, 2000

4
V5 * The Claw Boulder 4m

Starts right of 'Inspector Gadget'. Sharp pocket (LH) to slopey edge, then pocket to jug.

5
V6 * Pinch Dyno Boulder
6
V5 * The Dyno Boulder 4m

An eliminate dyno from the slopey crimps (LH one with prominent thumb catch)straight to the letterbox slot (right of 'The Claw').

7
V2 * Mary Boulder 4m

Up through undercling and along the lip to surprisingly difficult mantle.

8
V6 ** Silly Putty Boulder 5m

Starts left of 'Butt Gravity'. Sit start up on the ledge with the large pocket on the vague arete and make a big move into the huge slot. Make further big moves through the lip then move through the huecos to the left and top out through jugs. Has a reputation for being hard for the grade, particularly if you are short.

9
V6 * Silly Putty Direct Boulder 4m

Follow 'Silly Putty' through to the lip, then traverse it right to the pocket and make a big move to the jug on the face then top out over right side of main arret.

10
V7 * Butt Gravity Boulder 5m

Sit start low under the roof matching a slot, then out to a pocket, crimp, then BIG move up and left to a good 4-finger pocket. Join 'Silly Putty' at the top. Sharp.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

11
V8 * Butt Eater Boulder

Link up of 'Butt Gravity' into Race Eater Variant.

FA: Tilly Parkins?, 2000

12
V9 *** Race Eater Boulder

As for 'Happy Camper' but keep traversing leftwards to join 'Butt Gravity' and finish up that problem. Crux is the big move to the 4-finger pocket (on 'Butt Gravity').

FA: Klem Loskot (flashed), 2000

13

More commonly referred to as 'Race Eater' nowadays, but worth noting that this is in fact the original 'Happy Camper' problem. Sit start with obvious sickle-shaped jug (as for HCT/NSWM), then traverse immediately left to big undercling. Instead of continuing left into 'Butt Gravity' (Race Eater), climb straight out the lip via crimps and sloper to join the 'Happy Camper Traverse'. Finish as for that problem.

FA: Paul Westwood, 2000

14

Climb NSAM to the traverseline, then head left along the line of small crimps. Completely finger size dependant. Watch your back.

15
V7 *** happy camper Boulder

As per Grampians bouldering guide.

16
V7 * Button Mushrooms Boulder

Start as for 'Butt Gravity' but head directly out to traverseline of Race Eater. Traverse right all the way to the start of 'NSAM' and finish up this.

17

Sit start in big hueco (as for Happy Camper & Race Eater), then head straight out to letterbox slot and sloper. Dyno to good hold. Topout's not as easy as it seems... Arguably about as hard as 'Silly Putty'.

18

Start as for the original problem then head left and up through the sloper and edge. Rarely done.

19
V3 * Boundary Boulder 4m

Sit start 3m left of 'No Sex After Mushrooms'. Up to double pocket and beyond.

20
V5 * Out of Bounds Boulder

Start as for 'NSAM' to seam then traverse and finish up 'Boundary'

Hip Flexor Boulder

This and the next 4 problems are located on a separate boulder less than 1 minutes walk away (facing out) from NSWM, just before the 'Butthole Surfer' Cave.

21
V4 *** Ross's Problem Boulder

Sit start with the a left edge and right hand pocket and head straight through the roof via a slopey rail followed by a big move to a deep pocket. Make another big move to the good edge on the lip, then directly up for the jugs.

22
V7 *** Gay Hip Flexor Boulder 4m

The RH line. Starts on a hold below the sloper traverse line then gains this and heads right via some small crimps, slopers to eventually finish up the V1.

23
V6 ** No. 24 Boulder
24
V2 ** Flexor Traverse Boulder 9m

Start as for the 'Unnamed' V1 then keep traversing the break leftwards to finish up Ross's Problem.

25
V1 * Unflexed Boulder 4m

Sit start right of 'Gay Hip Flexor' and traverse left a few moves, then up on jugs through the groove to finish. A couple of fun variants exist straight through the roof here as well.

Butthole Surfter Area

A few meters on from the 'Hip Flexor Boulder'.

26
V4 ** Minus Boulder

A variation within the Butthole Cave. Starts just left of 'Butthole Surfer', then heads directly out through the roof in the direction of the No Sex With Mushrooms boulder.

27
V7 ** Plus Boulder

Another variation within the Butthole Cave. Starts as for 'Minus', then bisects the 'Worm Saloon' traverseline via a big move out to the lip.

28
V8 ** Worm Saloon Boulder

This and the next 4 problems are located on the raised ledge of the 'Butthole Surfer' Cave, within view of 'Gay Hip Flexor' down and to the left.

FA: Will Detmold, 2000

29
V10 *** Butthole Surfer Boulder

Low roof starting with a sit-start on a terrace and heading directly out to the lip and up overhanging face.

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

30
V13 The Scorpion King Boulder

The very dangerous problem just right of 'Butthole Surfer' and climbing out to the obvious pockets on the overhanging face above and bad landing (the drop off the terrace).

FA: Gerard Bergmann, 2002

31
V8 ** Gourmet Cat Boulder 3m

A gourmet for sure, starts on an obvious rail, finishes on top. two small crimps lead up the center of the face, and a big move to the jug/lip. simple and sweet

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

32
V5 Nimbus 2000 Boulder 3m

Sit start with sidepull and pocket. Move up and Lt to sharp crimps. Top out left of block on top.

33
V6 ** Connection Boulder 4m

Sit start with side pull and pockets. Desperately to small crimps then dyno to lip when falling off.

34
V3 * Disconnected Boulder

Sit start at lip on LHS of cave and up left side on good holds

35
V4 * Obelisk Boulder

Start at back of cave and head out through roof on LHS to finish up.

36
V6 ** Asterix Boulder

Same start as connection through roof to hard mantle with pocket over low lip at side of cave.

37
V6 ** Fat Cow Boulder

The direct to Da-Lai-Lahmung going straight up from the big pocket via a big move and topping out.

FA: Matt Adams, 2000

38
V9 ** Da-Lai-Lahmung Boulder

Span dependant. Standing start. Up to poor pocket, then big move up to large pocket. Re-arrange the hands, then span out right to the intermediate edge, then bigger span out to the jug on the arete. Match this and motor up on more jugs to topout.

FA: Toni Lamprecht, 1999

39
V2 * Beam Me Up Boulder
40

This problem is located on a seperate boulder behind the Da Lai Lahmung area. It takes the major line from a sit start then through the roof.

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