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Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This entire area is currently closed due to ongoing fire activity. Fires started on 15/1/2014 and swept the area. All access is prohibited.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V3 Super Deluxe Boulder

The straight up problem off the slot and edge.

2
V4 ** Ultra Deluxe Boulder

Same start as previous problem but head right through the twin pockets then up through twin edges and top out.

3
V7 ** Inspector Gadget Boulder

Long deadpoint to slopey crimp from slopey pockets.

FA: Matt Adams, 2000

4
V5 The Claw Boulder

Starts right of 'Inspector Gadget'. Sharp pocket (LH) to slopey edge, then pocket to jug.

5
V6 Pinch Dyno Boulder
6
V5 * The Dyno Boulder

An eliminate dyno from the slopey crimps (LH one with prominent thumb catch)straight to the letterbox slot (right of 'The Claw').

7
V2 Mary Boulder

Up through undercling and along the lip to surprisingly difficult mantle.

8
V5 * Silly Putty Boulder

Starts left of 'Butt Gravity'. Sit start up on the ledge with the large pocket on the vague arete and make a big move into the huge slot. Make further big moves through the lip then take the right trending flakeline (the finish to Butt Gravity) and top out. Can also be finished direct. Has a reputation for being hard for the grade, particularly if you are short.

9
V7 * Butt Gravity Boulder

Sit start low under the roof matching a slot, then out to a pocket, crimp, then BIG move up and left to a good 4-finger pocket. Join 'Silly Putty' at the top. Sharp.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

10
V8 * Butt Eater Boulder

Link up of 'Butt Gravity' into Race Eater Variant.

FA: Tilly Parkins?, 2000

11
V9 ** Race Eater Boulder

As for 'Happy Camper' but keep traversing leftwards to join 'Butt Gravity' and finish up that problem. Crux is the big move to the 4-finger pocket (on 'Butt Gravity').

FA: Klem Loskot (flashed), 2000

12

More commonly referred to as 'Race Eater' nowadays, but worth noting that this is in fact the original 'Happy Camper' problem. Sit start with obvious sickle-shaped jug (as for HCT/NSWM), then traverse immediately left to big undercling. Instead of continuing left into 'Butt Gravity' (Race Eater), climb straight out the lip via crimps and sloper to join the 'Happy Camper Traverse'. Finish as for that problem.

FA: Paul Westwood, 2000

13

Climb NSAM to the traverseline, then head left along the line of small crimps. Completely finger size dependant. Watch your back.

14
V7 happy camper Boulder

As per Grampians bouldering guide.

15
V7 * Button Mushrooms Boulder

Start as for 'Butt Gravity' but head directly out to traverseline of Race Eater. Traverse right all the way to the start of 'NSAM' and finish up this.

16

Sit start in big hueco (as for Happy Camper & Race Eater), then head straight out to letterbox slot and sloper. Dyno to good hold. Topout's not as easy as it seems... Arguably about as hard as 'Silly Putty'.

17

Start as for the original problem then head left and up through the sloper and edge. Rarely done.

18
V3 ** Boundary Boulder

Sit start 3m left of 'No Sex After Mushrooms'. Up to double pocket and beyond.

19
V5 * Out of Bounds Boulder

Start as for 'NSAM' to seam then traverse and finish up 'Boundary'

20
V3 ** Ross's Problem Boulder

This and the next 4 problems are located on a seperate boulder less than 1 minutes walk away (facing out) from NSWM, just before the 'Butthole Surfer' Cave. Sit start with the large letterbox pocket and RH sloper (of Gay Hip Flexor)and head straight through the roof via a big move to a deep pocket. Make another big move to the good edge on the lip, then directly up for the jugs.

21
V7 * Gay Hip Flexor Boulder

The RH line. Starts on a hold below the sloper traverse line then gains this and heads right via some small crimps, slopers to eventually finish up the V1.

22
V6 No. 24 Boulder
23
V2 ** Flexor Traverse Boulder

Start as for the 'Unnamed' V1 then keep traversing the break leftwards to finish up Ross's Problem.

24
V1 * Unflexed Boulder

Sit start right of 'Gay Hip Flexor' and traverse left a few moves, then up on jugs through the groove to finish. A couple of fun variants exist straight through the roof here as well.

25
V5 * Minus Boulder

A variation within the Butthole Cave. Starts just left of 'Butthole Surfer', then heads directly out through the roof in the direction of the No Sex With Mushrooms boulder.

26
V7 * Plus Boulder

Another variation within the Butthole Cave. Starts as for 'Minus', then bisects the 'Worm Saloon' traverseline via a big move out to the lip.

27
V8 ** Worm Saloon Boulder

This and the next 4 problems are located on the raised ledge of the 'Butthole Surfer' Cave, within view of 'Gay Hip Flexor' down and to the left.

FA: Will Detmold, 2000

28
V10 *** Butthole Surfer Boulder

Low roof starting with a sit-start on a terrace and heading directly out to the lip and up overhanging face.

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

29
V13 The Scorpion King Boulder

The very dangerous problem just right of 'Butthole Surfer' and climbing out to the obvious pockets on the overhanging face above and bad landing (the drop off the terrace).

FA: Gerard Bergmann, 2002

30
V8 * Gourmet Cat Boulder

A gourmet for sure, starts on an obvious rail, finishes on top. two small crimps lead up the center of the face, and a big move to the jug/lip. simple and sweet

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

31
V5 Nimbus 2000 Boulder

Sit start with sidepull and pocket. Move up and Lt to sharp crimps. Top out left of block on top.

32
V6 * Connection Boulder

Sit start with side pull and pockets. Desperately to small crimps then dyno to lip when falling off.

33
V3 Disconnected Boulder

Sit start at lip on LHS of cave and up left side on good holds

34
V4 * Obelisk Boulder

Start at back of cave and head out through roof on LHS to finish up.

35
V6 * Asterix Boulder

Same start as connection through roof to hard mantle with pocket over low lip at side of cave.

36
V6 * Fat Cow Boulder

The direct to Da-Lai-Lahmung going straight up from the big pocket via a big move and topping out.

FA: Matt Adams, 2000

37
V9 * Da-Lai-Lahmung Boulder

Span dependant. Standing start. Up to poor pocket, then big move up to large pocket. Re-arrange the hands, then span out right to the intermediate edge, then bigger span out to the jug on the arete. Match this and motor up on more jugs to topout.

FA: Toni Lamprecht, 1999

38

This problem is located on a seperate boulder behind the Da Lai Lahmung area. It takes the major line from a sit start then through the roof.