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Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014

Here's an update from Parks Victoria (18 September 2015):

People – it has been a long time coming, and the recovering areas thank you for your patience. As of the 18th September, most of the climbing areas in the North Grampians still closed, will once again open. These areas though, are still fragile and deserve to have a little extra thought given, if and when you decide to head there. The Mt Difficult Range is still in a very fragile state and because of this, some of the closures here will remain in place, except for those cliffs listed. Check out the list below and please continue to read the care info following it. Thank you all in the climbing and bouldering community who have been understanding of the closures and have been actively promoting it to others. Lots of other areas have seen renewed interest. Whilst Nature will continue to throw these events at us, it is obvious that there are always enough cliffs and boulders to go around.

To aid the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians there is a general closure in place for rock climbing throughout the Mt Difficult Range, except for the main climbing areas stated below. Please support the long term recovery of fire affected areas by remaining out of any closed sites. See closure map for further detail. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected areas. Open and accessible rock climbing and bouldering areas in the Northern Grampians Hollow Mountain Area Barc Cliff
, Gunn Buttress
, Battlescarred Blocks / The Ammo Shop, Amnesty Wall Area
, Andersens
, Clicke Area (incl. Kindergarten routes) The Kindergarten (bouldering) Expedition Crag, 
Turtle Rocks, 
Sandinista Cliffs, 
Pensioners Wall Area, 
Red Wall Area incl Echoes Block, Loopeys
, Hollow Mountain Cave, 
Cut Lunch Walls
, Koalasquatsy Wall Tribute Wall
, The Dungeon, 
Bad Moon Rising Wall Van Dieman’s Land, Rambla Wall, A-Frame Boulder

Summerday Valley Flying Blind. Wall of Fools, Back Wall Bowler Boulder

*Note closures are in place to Main wall, Left wall, Bird wall and Calcutti crag and others east of Summerday Valley due to threatened plant species regeneration, cultural heritage protection and trail degradation.Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Northern Wall, Central Buttress, Sabre Gully, 
Grey and Green Walls, Taipan Wall Spurt Wall, 
Bouldering Buttress, Lower Taipan, 
Afterglow Wall, Afterglow Boulders
,The Plaza Strip,
The Snake Pit
, Trackside Boulders. Citadel
. Ground Control Caves, Cave Club, 
Between the Sheeps, Spurt Wall (Bouldering), The Titanic (Bouldering) Flat Rock Area West Flank / Wall of Fuels, Bellepheron Wall
,Epsilon Wall
,Bouldering Cloud Cuckoo Land
, Note: new access track between flat rock, the kindergarten and Andersons via Bellepheron wall. Mt Zero Area Pangaea Walls, Toolondo Waters, 
4 Cornered Crag, 
Mt Zero Summit Cliff, Mount Zero West Walls

Iskra Crag Flower Power Block, Shadow Buttress, Emu Crag
, Sunstroke Area
, Pigs in Space Buttress, Main West Face, Dolgoruki Wall First Tier, 
Second Tier, 
Third Tier
, North Western Outcrop, Eastern Walls 36 Chambers
, Dolgoruki Wall and Three Tiers

Asses Ears Area Sunset Crags, 
The Secret Crags
, Cherub Wall
, Maul Wall, 
Wallaby Rocks, 
Conifer Wall
, Geranium (Brim) Springs, Porcelain Wall
,Wallaby Rocks
,Joey Blocks

Pohlner track and Smith Road Area The Rust Bucket, Martini Rock, Worship Wall, Point 447 ,Bordel Buttress, Mt Emu The Crows Nest, The Eyrie
, The Unnamed Cliff, An Unnamed Cliff, Olive Grove, Cave Of Ghosts Cliffs, Ghost Block,
The Olive Cave,
The Ravine


Eastern Mt Difficult Range No Mans Land, Heatherlie Heights, Cape Canavera,l Woomera The Promised Land / The Pine Plantation, Cliff Lebanon,
The Heavens, 
Lower Heavens, Lunar Walls, The Tim Tams

North West Mt Difficult Range Sickle Wall
, Mawson Slab, 
Mt Difficult Cliff, Epaminondas Buttress, Troopers Creek Cliff, Mt Difficult Summit ,Mt Bloody Impossible Mt Stapylton Campground Cave
, Sentinel Wall
, The Guardhouse, Warden Wall , Campground Boulders, Titanic Boulder, Doddery Rock, Mt Pleasant
,The Rockwall Area ,Briggs Bluff Area

NE Mt Zero Range Golton Rocks -
Cave Cliff
, Wave Wall (aka The Sundeck) / The Sun Deck The Sun Gate,
Golton Wall, 
Gog-Magog Crag, 
Watchmen Wall, 
Coppermine Track Cliff

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
V3 Super Deluxe Boulder 4m

The straight up problem off the slot and edge.

V4 ** Ultra Deluxe Boulder 5m

Same start as previous problem but head right through the twin pockets then up through twin edges and top out.

V7 ** Inspector Gadget Boulder

Long deadpoint to slopey crimp from slopey pockets.

FA: Matt Adams, 2000

V5 The Claw Boulder

Starts right of 'Inspector Gadget'. Sharp pocket (LH) to slopey edge, then pocket to jug.

V6 Pinch Dyno Boulder
V5 * The Dyno Boulder

An eliminate dyno from the slopey crimps (LH one with prominent thumb catch)straight to the letterbox slot (right of 'The Claw').

V2 Mary Boulder 4m

Up through undercling and along the lip to surprisingly difficult mantle.

V5 * Silly Putty Boulder

Starts left of 'Butt Gravity'. Sit start up on the ledge with the large pocket on the vague arete and make a big move into the huge slot. Make further big moves through the lip then take the right trending flakeline (the finish to Butt Gravity) and top out. Can also be finished direct. Has a reputation for being hard for the grade, particularly if you are short.

V7 Butt Gravity Boulder

Sit start low under the roof matching a slot, then out to a pocket, crimp, then BIG move up and left to a good 4-finger pocket. Join 'Silly Putty' at the top. Sharp.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

V8 * Butt Eater Boulder

Link up of 'Butt Gravity' into Race Eater Variant.

FA: Tilly Parkins?, 2000

V9 ** Race Eater Boulder

As for 'Happy Camper' but keep traversing leftwards to join 'Butt Gravity' and finish up that problem. Crux is the big move to the 4-finger pocket (on 'Butt Gravity').

FA: Klem Loskot (flashed), 2000


More commonly referred to as 'Race Eater' nowadays, but worth noting that this is in fact the original 'Happy Camper' problem. Sit start with obvious sickle-shaped jug (as for HCT/NSWM), then traverse immediately left to big undercling. Instead of continuing left into 'Butt Gravity' (Race Eater), climb straight out the lip via crimps and sloper to join the 'Happy Camper Traverse'. Finish as for that problem.

FA: Paul Westwood, 2000


Climb NSAM to the traverseline, then head left along the line of small crimps. Completely finger size dependant. Watch your back.

V7 happy camper Boulder

As per Grampians bouldering guide.

V7 * Button Mushrooms Boulder

Start as for 'Butt Gravity' but head directly out to traverseline of Race Eater. Traverse right all the way to the start of 'NSAM' and finish up this.


Sit start in big hueco (as for Happy Camper & Race Eater), then head straight out to letterbox slot and sloper. Dyno to good hold. Topout's not as easy as it seems... Arguably about as hard as 'Silly Putty'.


Start as for the original problem then head left and up through the sloper and edge. Rarely done.

V3 Boundary Boulder

Sit start 3m left of 'No Sex After Mushrooms'. Up to double pocket and beyond.

V5 * Out of Bounds Boulder

Start as for 'NSAM' to seam then traverse and finish up 'Boundary'

Hip Flexor Boulder

This and the next 4 problems are located on a separate boulder less than 1 minutes walk away (facing out) from NSWM, just before the 'Butthole Surfer' Cave.

V4 ** Ross's Problem Boulder

Sit start with the a left edge and right hand pocket and head straight through the roof via a slopey rail followed by a big move to a deep pocket. Make another big move to the good edge on the lip, then directly up for the jugs.

V7 * Gay Hip Flexor Boulder

The RH line. Starts on a hold below the sloper traverse line then gains this and heads right via some small crimps, slopers to eventually finish up the V1.

V6 No. 24 Boulder
V2 * Flexor Traverse Boulder 9m

Start as for the 'Unnamed' V1 then keep traversing the break leftwards to finish up Ross's Problem.

V1 Unflexed Boulder 4m

Sit start right of 'Gay Hip Flexor' and traverse left a few moves, then up on jugs through the groove to finish. A couple of fun variants exist straight through the roof here as well.

Butthole Surfter Area

A few meters on from the 'Hip Flexor Boulder'.

V4 ** Minus Boulder

A variation within the Butthole Cave. Starts just left of 'Butthole Surfer', then heads directly out through the roof in the direction of the No Sex With Mushrooms boulder.

V7 * Plus Boulder

Another variation within the Butthole Cave. Starts as for 'Minus', then bisects the 'Worm Saloon' traverseline via a big move out to the lip.

V8 ** Worm Saloon Boulder

This and the next 4 problems are located on the raised ledge of the 'Butthole Surfer' Cave, within view of 'Gay Hip Flexor' down and to the left.

FA: Will Detmold, 2000

V10 *** Butthole Surfer Boulder

Low roof starting with a sit-start on a terrace and heading directly out to the lip and up overhanging face.

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

V13 The Scorpion King Boulder

The very dangerous problem just right of 'Butthole Surfer' and climbing out to the obvious pockets on the overhanging face above and bad landing (the drop off the terrace).

FA: Gerard Bergmann, 2002

V8 * Gourmet Cat Boulder

A gourmet for sure, starts on an obvious rail, finishes on top. two small crimps lead up the center of the face, and a big move to the jug/lip. simple and sweet

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

V5 Nimbus 2000 Boulder

Sit start with sidepull and pocket. Move up and Lt to sharp crimps. Top out left of block on top.

V6 * Connection Boulder

Sit start with side pull and pockets. Desperately to small crimps then dyno to lip when falling off.

V3 Disconnected Boulder

Sit start at lip on LHS of cave and up left side on good holds

V4 Obelisk Boulder

Start at back of cave and head out through roof on LHS to finish up.

V6 * Asterix Boulder

Same start as connection through roof to hard mantle with pocket over low lip at side of cave.

V6 ** Fat Cow Boulder

The direct to Da-Lai-Lahmung going straight up from the big pocket via a big move and topping out.

FA: Matt Adams, 2000

V9 * Da-Lai-Lahmung Boulder

Span dependant. Standing start. Up to poor pocket, then big move up to large pocket. Re-arrange the hands, then span out right to the intermediate edge, then bigger span out to the jug on the arete. Match this and motor up on more jugs to topout.

FA: Toni Lamprecht, 1999


This problem is located on a seperate boulder behind the Da Lai Lahmung area. It takes the major line from a sit start then through the roof.


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