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A very small plug of rock more suitable for bouldering than actual roped climbing. Ignoring that fact there are now 12 routes squeezed onto this 40 square metre block!

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from Mt Stapylton Campground

As of September 2015 all Mt Stapylton Campground bouldering areas are closed to aid the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians following bushfires in January 2014. For more information visit:

By respecting these closures you are helping ensure the future of rock climbing in the area and the great work done by Parks Vic. By not respecting these closures you're being arrogant, disrespectful, and self-centred.

Thank you



Located about 40m before you reach the main 'Mt Pleasant' clifff line. There are climbs on all sides, so shade is possible all day. A bouldering mat could be more useful than a rope and rack.

© (nmonteith)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route
20 To Be Young Trad 6m

Why was this bolted? Bring a boulder mat and enjoy the freedom. Two starts - tall people start left at big crack. Stick-clip first ring bolt. Climb towards ring bolt then out left to jug, back into centre pockets and up. 3 rings in all, and triple rings on top.

FA: Trevor Wall, 2007

7 Ulcerations Trad 6m

Left 1.5m of 'Staying Grey'. Follow obvious jugs up diagonally left to narrow slot in face that leads to V-break.

FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Colless, 2007


Hanging start to gain crack and up.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2006

7 Walking Frame Trad 10m

Move left up ramp, 1m left of Y-Fronts, to crack and up.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007

8 Nose Hairs Trad 8m

Obvious chimney. Free hanging start, pull up into chimney. About halfway move out slightly right, up over protruding block. Move back on line to top.

FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Coles, 2006

7 Pension Days Trad 8m

Start on the white rock on the South East corner. Up to horizontal break, then follow this left 4m. Through tree to shallow corner above, move left to finish.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron barrett, 2007

12 Saggy Jugs Trad 8m

Start left around corner from boulder, working right up to large jug on corner. Then straight up to the top on thinning holds. Pro is thin.

FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Colless, 2007


Not exactly inspiring. On the the North face (the first face you reach).

FA: Trevor Wall (solo), 2007


2m left of 'Pension Days'. Up through shallow cracks and breaks.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007

16 Staying Grey Trad 7m

Start 1.5m left of 'To Be Young'. Work straight up the jugs until you hit ramp. Work right up ramp and over. Thin gear.

FA: Trevor Wall, Cameron Barrett, Leigh Colless & Meily Effendy, 2007

17 No Respite Trad 8m

... from this major endurance route? Starts 3m right of GAFTO. Start at orange crack between tree and small cave. Move through cracks and slightly left, up past bollard to easier ground.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007


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