This crag is unlocated

If you know where this crag is the please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. Please contact us if you have any issues.

Summary

Full of short easy beginner climbs. Shade all day, easy walk in.

Description

A 4 sided block 10m high. About 40m. N of Mt. Pleasant. has an orange overhang at W end with 3 FH

Access issues inherited from Mt Stapylton Campground

As of September 2015 all Mt Stapylton Campground bouldering areas are closed to aid the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians following bushfires in January 2014. For more information visit:

http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/_data/assets/pdffile/0012/639678/Grampians-rock-climbing-update.pdf

By respecting these closures you are helping ensure the future of rock climbing in the area and the great work done by Parks Vic. By not respecting these closures you're being arrogant, disrespectful, and self-centred.

Thank you

©

Approach

Head S from the circular car park, near the rock art site. Stapylton campground Until you are just past Mini Castle Crag, then veer right to grassy creek bed, following this S for 50m. then cross over creek bed. keep going S for another 5min. in open, flat terrain. Then come to Doddery Rock. Mt. Pleasant is another 40m. S.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
20 To Be Young Trad 6m

Two starts - tall people start left at big crack. Stick-clip first ring bolt. Climb towards ring bolt then out left to jug, back into centre pockets and up. 3 rings in all, and triple rings on top.

FA: Trevor Wall, 2007

2
3
7 Ulcerations Trad 6m

Left 1.5m of 'Staying Grey'. Follow obvious jugs up diagonally left to narrow slot in face that leads to V-break.

FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Colless, 2007

4

Hanging start to gain crack and up.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2006

5
7 Walking Frame Trad 10m

Move left up ramp, 1m left of Y-Fronts, to crack and up.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007

6
8 Nose Hairs Trad 8m

Obvious chimney. Free hanging start, pull up into chimney. About halfway move out slightly right, up over protruding block. Move back on line to top.

FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Coles, 2006

7
7 Pension Days Trad 8m

Start on the white rock on the South East corner. Up to horizontal break, then follow this left 4m. Through tree to shallow corner above, move left to finish.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron barrett, 2007

8
12 Saggy Jugs Trad 8m

Start left around corner from boulder, working right up to large jug on corner. Then straight up to the top on thinning holds. Pro is thin.

FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Colless, 2007

9

. On the the North wall (the first wall you reach).

FA: Trevor Wall (solo), 2007

10
11

2m left of 'Pension Days'. Up through shallow cracks and breaks.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007

12
16 Staying Grey Trad 7m

Start 1.5m left of 'To Be Young'. Work straight up the jugs until you hit ramp. Work right up ramp and over. Thin gear.

FA: Trevor Wall, Cameron Barrett, Leigh Colless & Meily Effendy, 2007

13
17 No Respite Trad 8m

Starts 3m right of GAFTO. Start at orange crack between tree and small cave. Move through cracks and slightly left, up past bollard to easier ground.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007

Activity

Check out what is happening in Doddery Rock.