A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Table of contents

1. Doddery Rock 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Trad
Description:© (nmonteith)

A very small plug of rock more suitable for bouldering than actual roped climbing. Ignoring that fact there are now 12 routes squeezed onto this 40 square metre block!

Access Issues: inherited from North Grampians

This entire area is currently closed due to ongoing fire activity. Fires started on 15/1/2014 and swept the area. All access is prohibited.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Located about 40m before you reach the main 'Mt Pleasant' clifff line. There are climbs on all sides, so shade is possible all day. A bouldering mat could be more useful than a rope and rack.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 To Be Young

Why was this bolted? Bring a boulder mat and enjoy the freedom. Two starts - tall people start left at big crack. Stick-clip first ring bolt. Climb towards ring bolt then out left to jug, back into centre pockets and up. 3 rings in all, and triple rings on top.

FA: Trevor Wall, 2007

20Trad 6m
2 Leigh Project Trad 8m
3 Ulcerations

Left 1.5m of 'Staying Grey'. Follow obvious jugs up diagonally left to narrow slot in face that leads to V-break.

FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Colless, 2007

7Trad 6m
4 Walking Frame Direct

Hanging start to gain crack and up.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2006

10Trad 8m
5 Walking Frame

Move left up ramp, 1m left of Y-Fronts, to crack and up.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007

7Trad 10m
6 Nose Hairs

Obvious chimney. Free hanging start, pull up into chimney. About halfway move out slightly right, up over protruding block. Move back on line to top.

FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Coles, 2006

8Trad 8m
7 Pension Days

Start on the white rock on the South East corner. Up to horizontal break, then follow this left 4m. Through tree to shallow corner above, move left to finish.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron barrett, 2007

7Trad 8m
8 Saggy Jugs

Start left around corner from boulder, working right up to large jug on corner. Then straight up to the top on thinning holds. Pro is thin.

FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Colless, 2007

12Trad 8m
9 Getting Away From the Olds

Not exactly inspiring. On the the North face (the first face you reach).

FA: Trevor Wall (solo), 2007

3Trad 6m
10 Trevs Project Trad 8m
11 Granpa's Y-Fronts

2m left of 'Pension Days'. Up through shallow cracks and breaks.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007

7Trad 8m
12 Staying Grey

Start 1.5m left of 'To Be Young'. Work straight up the jugs until you hit ramp. Work right up ramp and over. Thin gear.

FA: Trevor Wall, Cameron Barrett, Leigh Colless, Meily Effendy, 2007

16Trad 7m
13 No Respite

... from this major endurance route? Starts 3m right of GAFTO. Start at orange crack between tree and small cave. Move through cracks and slightly left, up past bollard to easier ground.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007

17Trad 8m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
3 Getting Away From the Olds Trad 6m
7 Granpa's Y-Fronts Trad 8m
Pension Days Trad 8m
Ulcerations Trad 6m
Walking Frame Trad 10m
8 Nose Hairs Trad 8m
10 Walking Frame Direct Trad 8m
12 Saggy Jugs Trad 8m
16 Staying Grey Trad 7m
17 No Respite Trad 8m
20 To Be Young Trad 6m
? Leigh Project Trad 8m
Trevs Project Trad 8m