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Description

Low to medium grades, good pro. great for beginners and top ropes.

Access issues inherited from Mt Stapylton Campground

As of September 2015 all Mt Stapylton Campground bouldering areas are closed to aid the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians following bushfires in January 2014. For more information visit:

http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/_data/assets/pdffile/0012/639678/Grampians-rock-climbing-update.pdf

By respecting these closures you are helping ensure the future of rock climbing in the area and the great work done by Parks Vic. By not respecting these closures you're being arrogant, disrespectful, and self-centred.

Thank you

©

Approach

Head S from the Stapylton car park, near rock art site. Until you are just past Mini Castle Crag. Then veer right to grassy creek bed and follow this S for 50m. Then cross the creek bed. Keep going S for another 5 min., in open flat terrain. You will come to Doddery Rock then Mt. Pleasant is another 40m. S.

Descent notes

The gully between Abbren and Free Hangin. The V chimney right of Leigh's Right. Easy walk down 20m. right of V chimney

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
6 * Abbren Trad 8m

Obvious crack line at E./ left end of cliff. Left of scrubby descent gully

FA: Leigh Colless, 2007

2
5 Free Hangin Trad 12m

Crack/ corner right of scrubby descent gully, left of FH's. Start 1m. left of 2FH's. Bridge between crack & sidewall, exit through V brake at top of crack.

FA: Cameron Barret

FFA: 2006

3
16 * Kymba Mixed 12m, 2

1m. right of F.H. take shallow cracks, left of FH's to pocket, move to orange rock and straight up, finish at shallow V at top. Don't use boulder to start.

FA: Leigh Colless, 2007

4
5 Sheila G Trad 12m

3m. right of K. the arête. use boulder to gain arête, move up this to jugs and over top. belay from top of K.

FA: Leigh Colless, 2007

5
6 Alpine Experience Trad 12m

First shallow corner right of S.G., Pull up into knobbly corner & work your way up on good holds. Pull up onto ledge & continue up bridging corner, some holds brittle.

FA: Cameron Barret, 2007

6
12 Hunter valley Trad 12m

About 2m. left of FH. Obvious corner line with over hang. The juggy cracks in the wall left of the corner, then the line up the arête.

FA: Phillip Armstrong, 2001

7
18 * Mumjoy Trad 12m

In memory of my Mother who passed late 2006. Obvious V crack with slight roof left of OP&OH. Start as for H.V., traverse right into crack past bolt plate. Follow crack line into roof, move left under roof following crack to top

FA: Cameron Barret, 2006

8
14 OP&OH Trad 12m

The corner starting at the left end of the roof of the cave. From the top of the large block haul into the line and up

FA: Phillip Armstrong, 2001

Activity

Check out what is happening in Mt Pleasant.