Mt Stapylton Campground Crag guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Neil Monteith Andrew Clark Campbell Gome Sebastian Sakowicz Jason Morton Will Monks Stephen Hawkshaw Phil Neville Joshua Merriam chris

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1. Mt Stapylton Campground 117 in Crag
- 1.1. Sentinel Cave 14 in Cliff
- 1.2. Sentinel Wall 5 in Cliff
- 1.3. The Guardhouse 7 in Cliff
- 1.4. Warden Wall 6 in Cliff
- 1.5. Campground Boulders 38 in Cliff
- 1.6. Titanic Boulder 9 in Boulder
- 1.7. Doddery Rock 13 in Cliff
- 1.8. Mt Pleasant 0 in Area
- 1.9. Sentry Wall 0 in Area
2. Index by grade

1. Mt Stapylton Campground 117 routes in Crag

6 5 1

1 Sentinel Cave, 5 Campground Boulders, 6 Titanic Boulder

seasonality

Summary:: Trad,Boulder and other styles
Long/Lat: 142.390496, -36.926573
Description:© (nmonteith): You gotta love the lazy option! Instead of driving to some far flung part of the 'Grampians' you can explore what is close to your coffee, tent and esky. This guide records the new development that has occurred in the hidden crags within walking distance of the 'Mt Stapylton Campground' in the Northern 'Grampians' of Western 'Victoria'. Most of the better routes are steep bolted sport routes or easy short wall climbs on trad protection. The rock is coarse with a similar feel to the Blue Mountains and has patches of utter choss. If you are climbing on trad then take extra care as many of these routes have had limited repeats. If you want to clip bolts then this area is a great place to start your 'Grampians' experience. Leave your bolt plates at home - almost everything here is ring-bolted.

Don't chip, don't litter, don't shit at the crag (use toilets at campground), don't swear near tourists, don't drill within earshot of the campsite and lastly respect the Aboriginal art site by keeping your grubby mitts off nearby rock.
Access Issues: inherited from Grampians: National Park
Approach:© (nmonteith): All these crags (apart from the bouldering) are accessed from a well worn track, but un-official, that leaves the south east corner of the Aboriginal Art Site carpark. Walk down the official loop track fro twenty metres before branching off to the right and into the bush. Within a few minutes you'll stumble upon the obvious free standing pillar of Mini 'Castle Crag'. The track to the other crags continues past this point (refer to map on this page).

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Homebrew Flake crack and shallow corner 3m right of 'Lovedale'. Also written up by C.Barrett as Dadjoe in '06. FA: Ben Wright, Peter Kello, William Swinson, 2005	14	Trad 9m
2	Free Hangin 1 metre left of face with two FHs. Bridge between crack and sidewall, exit through the V break at the top of the crack. FA: Cameron Barrett, Leigh Colless, 2006	5	Trad 12m
3	Elizabeth The wide crack right of Philip. Take a large cam (Camalot 4+). FA: Jeremy Maddox, Philip Armstrong, 2001	16	Trad 10m
4	Hunter Valley Around left of OP&OH is another obvious corner line with an overhang at the top. The juggy cracks in the wall left of the corner then the line up the arete. FA: Philip Armstrong, Jeremy Maddox, 2001	12	Trad 12m
5	Sheila G Another mega line - not. Use boulder to start and gain arete, up to jugs and over. FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007	5	Trad 12m
6	Philip The easy chimney right of 'Rosehill'. FA: Jeremy Maddox, 2001	5	Trad 10m
7	Lovedale The knobbly cracks up the wall just right of the start of 'Semillon'. FA: Jeremy Maddox, Philip Armstrong, 2001	14	Trad 10m
8	Rosehill Around right of the cave is an overhanging corner. Good jamming. FA: Jeremy Maddox, Philip Armstrong, 2001	17	Trad 10m
9	Battle of the Bulge The third route with this name in the Grampians! Next crack in the block after Phillip. Crank up crack and over middle of the bulge. Gear is thin. Originally climbed by bailing right into 'Elizabeth' under the bulge 02-12-2006. FA: Trevor Wall, Meily Effendy, Leigh Colless and Chris Tamavic, 2007	15	Trad 12m
10	Semillon Nice wall climbing up the left leading flake on the wall right of 'Elizabeth' finishing up the short hanging corner. Worth doing. FA: Philip Armstrong, Jeremy Maddox, 2001	16	Trad 12m
11	Alpine Experience Optimistic. First corner right of Shiela G. Pull up into knobbly corner and work up on good holds. Pull up onto ledge and continue up bridging corner. Some holds are brittle. FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Colless, 2007	6	Trad 12m
12	Leigh's Right Why was this bolted? 1m right of the previous route. Single FH up very short wall. Better to boulder this one. FA: Leigh Colless, Cameron Barrett, 2007	16	Trad 6m
13	Mumjoy In memory of Cameron's mother who died late 2006. Obvious V crack with slight roof left of OP&OH. Begin as of 'Hunter Valley', traversing right into crack past FH. Follow crack line into roof, move out left under roof following crack to the top. Second may have a swing - two ropes might be useful. FA: Cameron Barrett, Leigh Colless and Chris Tamavic, 2006	18	Trad 12m
14	Kymba Contrived, with bolts right next to crack. Shallow cracks, right of fixed hangers, to pocket move to orange rock and straight up to finish at shallow V at top. Don't use boulder to start. FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2006	16	Trad 12m
15	Project Single FH with red tag. FA: Cameron ect?, 2000		Trad 8m
16	Whinery Tour Start as for OP&OH. Do the crux of that route, then traverse right above the void until able to finish up the next corner. FA: Stu Dobbie, Jim Kane, Jack Lewis, 2005	14	Trad 20m
17	Abbren Crack line at far east end of cliff. FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007	6	Trad 8m
18	If You’re Short, We Can Help Accidently retro-bolted and written up by C.Barrett in '07. 5m right of 'Homebrew', good moves up orange wall. Up through double pock hole past FH to sidepulls, and straight up above horizontal break. FA: Ben Wright, Peter Kello, 2005	17	Trad 8m
19	OP&OH The corner starting above the left end of the roof of the cave. From the top of the large block haul into the line and up. FA: Philip Armstrong, Jeremy Maddox, 2001	14	Trad 12m
20	Topple Tor Scramble around the bottom of the broken buttresses for about 50 metres to an undercut, leaning stack. The steep southwest arête. FA: Bedford, FA: Lyons, Gordon, FA: Gary, 2005	15	Trad 15m
21	The First Post Five metres left of the chimney. A nice short corner to a ledge. 'Escape' off right or thrutch up a wide crack to top. FA: Gordon Bedford, Gary Lyons, 2005	9	Trad 12m
22	Aware Three metres right of the chimney. The steep crack through the bulge at the top. FA: Gary Lyons, Gordon Bedford, 2005	16	Trad 12m
23	Cold At Dawn Five metres right of 'Aware'. The steep right facing flake crack. FA: Gary Lyons, Gordon Bedford, 2005	15	Trad 12m
24	Sentry Line On the eastern face on the other side of the block directly over from 'Aware'. Starts in a small alcove. The narrow, left leaning crack that finishes the semi-circular break in the top overhang. FA: Gary Lyons, Gordon Bedford, 2005	12	Trad 15m
25	Sentry Arête The right hand rib of the chimney. FA: Gordon Bedford, Gary Lyons, 2005	5	Trad 12m

1.1. Sentinel Cave 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:: Sport,Trad
Long/Lat: 142.389453, -36.932076
Description:© (nmonteith): One of the more popular 'dry in any weather' venues for the mid grade sport climber. This is a large cave high up in the valley behind Stapylton campground with an easy flat walk-in. This area features short and very steep sport routes on coarse orange rock. A large viewing area makes this a fun place to hang out with a bunch of mates and watch the sun set whilst cranking some of the sweet routes. Be very careful on the access traverse into the cave, one slip and you're dead. In wet weather it is advised to rope up for the scramble traverse into the cave and exit by absieling back out of the cave.

Crag gets late afternoon sun in summer and full sun from midday in winter.
Approach:© (nmonteith): Park at the 'Mt Stapylton Campground' aboriginal shelter carpark (Cave of Ghosts) which is south from the camping area. Walk south east following small track on the east side of a vegetated creek. A few minutes into the walk you will pass an isolated pillar of rock 'Castle Crag' with a few ok trad routes on it. Keep following the track, walking along flat ground amongst ferns with minor cliffs and boulders on your left. After 5 minutes the track goes into gumtrees, keep walking in the same direction on a vague track for another few minutes. Spot the cave itself in front and to the left a little up the hill in the distance.Try and locate some rock cairns and follow these left up a gentle hill. Follow left branch of 'creek' up small rock gully on the left side of the cave until you can traverse directly right across exposed rock to get into the cave. Two RB's are positioned along this traverse to use as an anchor to belay people who may be scared of the traverse. The ringbolt can also be used to abseil out of the cave when the traverse is wet from rain.

GPS - 36.55.900s, 142.23.372e
History:© (nmonteith): Discovered by Neil Monteith & Joe Morgan in 2003 on a cold wet winters day of misery. Drills arrived shortly after.

	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
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1	Easier Puzzle Easy trad climbing on big jugs. Start at small corner break 2m left of 'Half Shark Half Man'. Follow corner to finish at ledge and HSHM anchors. FA: Phil Neville, Joe Morgan-Payler & Michael Schedlberger, 2003	10 R	Trad 12m		Constantine Dritsas 4 months ago This route seems to have sprung bolts. Gareth Graham 8 years ago 2nd Duncan..I just don't like this sort of rock
2	Half Shark Half Man Steep and juggy sport warm-up at the far left end of the cave. Starts halfway across the approach traverse at single u-bolt belay. Up through orange jugs and then grey cracked face. Runout between bolt 1 and 2 is a bit scary. FA: Joe Morgan-Payler, Stephen Hawkshaw & Neil Monteith, 2003	17 R	Sport 14m , 3		benjamin james eichler 5 years ago good fun moves off ground. robbie houlihan 5 years ago pretty tough 1 move
3	Media Puzzle Good pumpy workout on nice orange rock. Starts at left end of cave at small well chalked rooflet. Stick-clip first bolt. Out left across crux roof past two RB's then up scoops on jugs (2 RB's) to good rest. Step right and thug through steep territory past final RB to jugs and DRB lower-off. FA: Neil Monteith, Joe Morgan-Payler & Jacqui Middleton, 2003	23	Sport 16m , 6		Constantine Dritsas 4 months ago Got it! My 1st 23 in Australia. Constantine Dritsas 4 months ago Buggered up the 2nd shot and bailed at the 2nd bolt.
4	Media Puzzle Extension An excellent bonus finish to 'Media Puzzle'. From double ringbolts monkey upside down on jugs out right along the horizontal break for 4m past 2 extra FH's then up to chains (crux). FA: Peter Daish & Damian Hall, 2003	23	Trad 18m		benjamin james eichler 5 years ago awsome fun in a farout position. David McKelvie 6 years ago lack of endurance!
5	Far Lap A long scary trad traverse from the fourth bolt on 'Media Puzzle' across to the first bolt in the roof on 'Antics'. The middle of the traverse is very un-protected, with ground fall potential very likely. FA: Gareth Llewelin, Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith, 2005	23	Trad 25m		Neil Monteith 7 years ago Terrifying 8m ground fall potential whilst seconding this girdle traverse. Gareth Llewellin 7 years ago ground up onsight first ascent on trad at a sport crag?? Huh what was I thinking? It turned out t...
6	Another Stupid Project A bit stupid. Starts 2m right of Media Puzzle - up a few metres then traverse left across MP to anchor. Bolted by Monty in the dark ages.		Sport Project 10m		Neil Monteith 7 years ago Very awkward painful traverse. Classic.
Hide
	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
7	Makybe Diva Short and brutal in true Nowra fashion. A direct start to 'Antics'. Starts 10m right of Media Puzzle at ground level. Three FH's. Either lower off first bolt on 'Antics' or continue outwards for the full grade 26 finish. FA: Neil Monteith, 2004	25	Sport 7m		. 6 years ago 22 at south central?! cool crux.. Jeremy Goble 7 years ago 2nd shot
8	Roof of Doom Anyone say girdle? A scuttling novelty route across a big roof. Originally attempted on trad – but after Neil pulled a huge block off the lip and plummeted headfirst onto the halfway ledge it was decided to bolt it. Climb to first bolt on 'Stepping on Snakes', traverse left across 'Army of Ants' to big ledge. Walk left across this to FH and keep going across line (big cams) to roof flake (FH). Out impressive 3m roof and up steep arete past RB to lower off bolts. FA: Neil Monteith, Jacqui Middleton & Joe Morgan-Payler, 2003	22	Sport 35m		Neil Monteith 10 years ago I pulled a hold on an attempted first ascent
9	Project (Open) Line of FHs through roof left of 'Antics'. Attempted by a few - maybe 28+? Bolted by Monty in 2004. FA: Equipped Neil Monteith, 2004		Sport Project 10m
10	Antics Another HB signature roof route. Follow 'Army of Ants' to first bolt, then traverse left to ledge. Climb left leading roof flakes through 5m cieling directly above the ledge past 4 FH's to lip. Back jump to clean. No anchor. FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2003	26	Sport 14m , 5		. 3 months ago Not classic gramps stone, but a fun diddy none the less ;) Jeremy Goble 7 years ago 2nd shot
11	Army of Ants Short, powerful and popular. Start just right of small arete in centre of cave at ground level. Don't wear slip-ons unless you're OK with losing a shoe mid-route! Thin reachy face to start precedes big dynamic moves up steep wall and finish via big scoopy roof 1 FH & 4 RB's. Lower off chain. FA: Rohan Archibald, Neil Monteith & Jacqui Middleton, 2003	26	Sport 15m , 5		David McKelvie 5 years ago Just draw-monkeying really. tried it out on tope-rope while stripping it. only one hard move. Jason Smith 6 years ago Quite varied for a short one, and heaps of fun too
12	Stepping on Snakes Classic steep thugging. Mantle onto slab then up very steep horizontals to final roof dyno. Five RB's and double RB lower off. Watch your back when lowering off. FA: Neil Monteith, 2002	23	Sport 14m , 5		Neil Monteith 8 days ago I'm such a sandbagger. Matthew Coleman 4 weeks ago definitely a work in progress
13	Screaming Barfies Easier start just right of SOS – then finish left as for SOS through the roof. 4 U-bolts. FA: Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie, 2006	22	Sport 10m , 4		Neil Monteith 6 years ago Anther lap. Good warm-up. . 6 years ago harder 'move' than stepping on snakes...
14	Dwarf Pumper Self explanatory. Far right side of cave. A 'Nowra' style mini pumpfest. Three RB's up steep orange wall. Double RB lower off at top. FA: Neil Monteith & Joe Morgan-Payler, 2002	20	Sport 8m , 3		Tarje Bargheer 3 weeks ago missed out on the 'self-explanatory' first shot by following the chalk, trying to traverse toward... Constantine Dritsas 4 months ago Pumpy little thing.

1.2. Sentinel Wall 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:: Trad,Sport and Top Rope
Description:© (nmonteith): A small vertical wall with two good warm-up sport routes, and some very average trad routes. This orange wall is located opposite 'Sentinel Cave', just 100m away on the other side of the access gully. Scramble across to the left side and up right onto a ledge where the two bolted routes are. The trad routes are further right. Afternoon sun.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Sunsation A contrived left varient of 'Fot as Huck'. Start slightly left of 'Fot as Huck'. Up to thread then stick left as you climb the jugs out to the left avoiding the bolted line. Watch for explodo jugs. FA: Stephen Hawkshaw & Andrew Morrison, 2003	18	Trad 15m
2	Fot as Huck Great easy sport route! Left most bolted line on right edge of roofy section. Big jugs up slightly overhung wall finishing at bolt anchor slightly to the right. Retrobolted - originally a trad route. FA: Joe Morgan-Payler, 2002	17	Sport 20m , 6
3	Sunraysia Starts about 4m right of 'Fot as Huck'. Long reaches between good holds trending left to the same anchor as 'Fot as Huck'. Originally a trad route. FA: Neil Monteith & Joe Morgan-Payler, 2002	20	Sport 20m , 5	Neil Monteith 10 years ago Ground up onsight
4	Tatiana Start 2m right of central crack on buttress slightly downhill and right from 'Sunraysia'. Up through thin start to pockets and past technical finish to tree belay. FA: Michael Schedlberger, Phil Neville, Joe Morgan-Payler, 2003	15	Trad 12m	Phil Neville 10 years ago Really nice, clean rock and good pro. was going to be called tatianas pockets of love... :)
5	Know Your Signals Start 4m right of dirty roof hand crack and right of 'Tatiana'. Follow weakness through thin start to under roof. Watch for loose rock. Traverse left 2m and finish at tree belay. FA: Phil Neville, Michael Schedlberger, Joe Morgan-Payler, 2003	15	Trad 14m	Phil Neville 10 years ago A few loose rocks..... When cleaned will be good....

1.3. The Guardhouse 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:: All Sport
Description:© (nmonteith): Home of the gritty sloper and the quick pump! A small, gently overhung amphitheater of rock with a couple of good Blue Mountains style sport routes. The orange wall is clearly visible on the hillside when driving in from the west past the olive grove. Pack a handful of draws and some forearms.
Approach:© (nmonteith): Refer to map one level up for access. Start the walk in as for 'Sentinel Cave'. After hopping over a big dead tree about 8 minutes into the walk, and past the last of the small cliffs on the left, turn left and follow small creek bed steeply uphill heading for the semi-obvious orange wall high on the hill. Some rock cairns and yellow tape mark the way, but there is no good track (yet). Once you get to the crag itself scramble up ledges on the right and walk left to small fixed rope to get to base of wall. You can scramble up the grade 1 left hand side of the crag to reach the top if you wish. Be careful, the rock is shit and it's exposed!

Total approach time is 20 minutes. Shade and breezes until 2pm in summer. Most routes stay dry in light showers - but after extended rain the seepage drains down 'Little George' and 'Ranger Danger'.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Affluenza Far left most route. Start direct under the first bolt at grade 21, or climb in from the left at 20. A tricky mantle in the middle spoils the pumpy slopy fun. Five RBs and lower-off. Be wary of the last few metres, the jugs are a bit too big for comfort. FA: Neil Monteith & Steve Bright, 2007	21	Sport 14m , 5	Almar Postma 5 weeks ago Short pumpy climb and tricky mantle move. . 3 months ago Fun warm up
2	Line Of Sight Possibly the best route at the Guardhouse. Wave to the scout hoards at Staplyton Campground as you pull to glory through the ceiling. Located on left side of wall. Reachy orange goodness to start to reach prominent roof cave. Over roof and up right side of subtle arête to final juggy wall. 5 UBs and double UB lower-off. FA: Neil Monteith, 2006	23	Sport 15m , 5	Almar Postma 5 weeks ago After knowing the moves it was quite easy but still pumpy fun. Almar Postma 5 weeks ago 2 falls! Tricky move from off of the mantle to the arete. Finally found 2 good options. Move ...
3	Felonies Under the Radar A punchy start (sandbag?) leads to a sustained finish through and around the roof. Stick clip the first bolt, then four more to the anchors. Start: 3rd bolted line from the left. FA: Adam Demmert, 2008	24	Sport 11m , 5	. 3 months ago Tricky but no harder than nowra 24.
4	Miss Communication Short punchy number. The 4th bolted route from the left with the white stained scoop in the middle. Up slopers to roof heuco. Over this on incuts then one final tough move to jugs. Chain anchor. 4 RBs. FA: Neil Monteith, 2007	23	Sport 10m , 4	Almar Postma 5 weeks ago Another pump climb but got it! . 3 months ago Can hardly remember!!
5	Little George Named after George the baby gecko, that hitched a ride on a backpack all the way to Brunswick... causing havoc at Jac's place for two weeks before being returned to the Grampians! Follows left-trending line of four ringbolts in centre of crag just right of big scoopy hueco in rooflet. Stroll through delicate start just left of first bolt, locate the secret hold, and march your way to glory over steep juggy terrain. Double RB lower off. FA: Jacqui Middleton & Neil Monteith, 2003	23	Sport 14m , 4	Almar Postma 5 weeks ago Got it clean the 2nd time Almar Postma 5 weeks ago Pumpy overhanging fun. One rest near top.
6	Ranger Danger Weaves around black streak on far right side of main wall. Bouldery start (stick clip ring) up slopers and slots to easier ground. At halfway head slightly right to rest stance then up past hidden RB (scary clip!) and crux dyno. Finish up steep jugs. Five RBs and DRB lower-off. FA: Neil Monteith, 2003	24	Sport 13m , 5	Almar Postma 5 weeks ago Dogged it in the dark! got the start move on the 3rd go. Rest at 2nd bolt. rest at bolt just bef... Neil Monteith 5 years ago repeat
7	Fractionally Flamed Sandy slopers. Starts back at ground level and 40m right of the main wall. White clean streak on otherwise juggy grey wall. A tad runout for the inexperienced. 3 RBs and lower-off. FA: Neil Monteith & Steve Bright, 2007	19	Sport 15m , 3	Mike Back 4 years ago pre-placed draws Neil Monteith 5 years ago repeat

1.4. Warden Wall 6 routes in Cliff

Summary:: Top Rope,Trad
Description:© (nmonteith): Small featured wall on left side of track about 100m past Mini 'Castle Crag' on the walk in to 'Sentinel Cave'. These are short trad routes on good rock. Topropes are easy to setup. Afternoon sun.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Crimps of Doom Face around corner 2m left of 'Rohans Route', a few balancy crimp moves gets you to the top. FA: Joe Morgan-Payler, 2003	17	Trad 10m	matt schnabl 7 years ago nice and techincal moves on crimps (obviously) Gareth Graham 8 years ago Little awkward to get gear in off the start..enjoyable
2	Rohans Route A hard and bold mantle at the start reaches jugs (crux) and easy hauling to top. FA: Rohan Archibald,	17	Trad 10m	Neil Monteith 8 years ago Quite good. Sandbag first move though. More like grade 20.
3	Gormet Nice climbing up an attractive line. Follow orange corner to top. FA: Hanh Le, 2003	14	Trad 10m	matt schnabl 7 years ago pro not as good as it seems from ground, watchout for bad rock! Gareth Graham 8 years ago Very enjoyable..good gear
4	My Bitch Bubba Same start as for 'Gormet', only stepping onto thin face after reaching first block, then following the break on left-hand side of face. FA: Tuan Le, 2003	18	Trad 10m	matt schnabl 7 years ago (beginners w/e) watchout for bad rock! dislodged a piece the size of a watermelon nearly taking o...
5	Photographers Solo Best access to top as well as an easy down climb.	8	Trad 10m
6	Jump Gimli! Located on wall right of main 'Warden Wall'. Climb straight up from slight scoop in the wall 2m from right-hand end. Short climbers will need to use dynamic technique. FA: Jack Lewis, Simon Punt, Cameron Barrett, 2003	14	Trad 7m

1.5. Campground Boulders 38 routes in Cliff

Summary:: All Boulder
Long/Lat: 142.387344, -36.921344

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Super Deluxe The straight up problem off the slot and edge.	V3	Boulder	Luke 2 weeks ago First problem I did in the Gramps, oh what a feeling! Andrew Clark 7 months ago Couldn't get the footwork right today.
2	Ultra Deluxe Same start as previous problem but head right through the twin pockets then up through twin edges and top out.	V4	Boulder
3	Inspector Gadget Long deadpoint to slopey crimp from slopey pockets. FA: Matt Adams, 2000	V7	Boulder	Tommy Krauss 5 months ago Went down quickly after trying new high left foot beta. Cool crimp and pocket cranking. Joshua Merriam 1 years ago took several tries to dial the first move. quickly did both topout variations (left to crimps, r...
4	The Claw Starts right of 'Inspector Gadget'. Sharp pocket (LH) to slopey edge, then pocket to jug.	V5	Boulder	Luke 2 weeks ago Little did I know that V5s would mostly destroy me this trip, this one however fell once I had ma... Andrew Clark 7 months ago Somewhat surprised I got this in a session.
5	Pinch Dyno	V6	Boulder	Phil Neville 4 years ago 2nd go, pretty easy really. Good fun though. Daniel da Silva 5 years ago Nice flight
6	The Dyno An eliminate dyno from the slopey crimps (LH one with prominent thumb catch)straight to the letterbox slot (right of 'The Claw').	V5	Boulder
7	Mary Up through undercling and along the lip to surprisingly difficult mantle.	V2	Boulder	Anthony Cuskelly 7 months ago In sandshoes. Skipped the mantle because of no mat. Andrew Clark 7 months ago Warm down. Stayed further left and seemed easier than usual.
8	Silly Putty Starts left of 'Butt Gravity'. Sit start up on the ledge with the large pocket on the vague arete and make a big move into the huge slot. Make further big moves through the lip then take the right trending flakeline (the finish to Butt Gravity) and top out. Can also be finished direct. Has a reputation for being hard for the grade, particularly if you are short.	V5	Boulder	Andrew Clark 4 months ago No dice today. Andrew Clark 7 months ago Left finish to the snappy holds on the lip.
9	Butt Gravity Sit start low under the roof matching a slot, then out to a pocket, crimp, then BIG move up and left to a good 4-finger pocket. Join 'Silly Putty' at the top. Sharp. FA: Julian Saunders, 2000	V7	Boulder	Daniel da Silva 6 years ago cool Alister Robertson 7 years ago A worthwhile problem
10	Butt Eater Link up of 'Butt Gravity' into Race Eater Variant. FA: Tilly Parkins?, 2000	V8	Boulder
11	Race Eater As for 'Happy Camper' but keep traversing leftwards to join 'Butt Gravity' and finish up that problem. Crux is the big move to the 4-finger pocket (on 'Butt Gravity'). FA: Klem Loskot (flashed), 2000	V9	Boulder	Steve 1 years ago Great moves. Low in 7b! Nick Cormack 4 years ago Flashed the one that finishes up Happy Camper.
12	Happy Camper (Race Eater Variant) More commonly referred to as 'Race Eater' nowadays, but worth noting that this is in fact the original 'Happy Camper' problem. Sit start with obvious sickle-shaped jug (as for HCT/NSWM), then traverse immediately left to big undercling. Instead of continuing left into 'Butt Gravity' (Race Eater), climb straight out the lip via crimps and sloper to join the 'Happy Camper Traverse'. Finish as for that problem. FA: Paul Westwood, 2000	V8	Boulder
13	Happy Camper Traverse Climb NSAM to the traverseline, then head left along the line of small crimps. Completely finger size dependant. Watch your back.	V8	Boulder	Phil Neville 4 years ago Soo close to the send, last hard move. Awesome problem! Alister Robertson 5 years ago Finally! 2 9s in a day!
14	happy camper As per Grampians bouldering guide.	V7	Boulder	Joshua Merriam 1 years ago partly scary since the post is behind you for some of the moves up higher. But great quality and... chris 1 years ago For some reason this is not in the crag database, one of the obvious lines at the crag. Really cool
15	Button Mushrooms Start as for 'Butt Gravity' but head directly out to traverseline of Race Eater. Traverse right all the way to the start of 'NSAM' and finish up this.	V7	Boulder
16	No Sex After Mushrooms / NSAM Sit start in big hueco (as for Happy Camper & Race Eater), then head straight out to letterbox slot and sloper. Dyno to good hold. Topout's not as easy as it seems... Arguably about as hard as 'Silly Putty'.	V5	Boulder	Luke 9 days ago Linked to the dyno, and from the dyno - but at the end of the trip my skin was not up to the chal... Andrew Clark 13 weeks ago Couldn't link the whole thing but linked to the dyno, dyno to top. Think I was too tired from pr...
17	No Sex After Mushrooms LHV Start as for the original problem then head left and up through the sloper and edge. Rarely done.	V7	Boulder
18	Boundary Sit start 3m left of 'No Sex After Mushrooms'. Up to double pocket and beyond.	V3	Boulder
19	Out of Bounds Start as for 'NSAM' to seam then traverse and finish up 'Boundary'	V5	Boulder
20	Ross's Problem This and the next 4 problems are located on a seperate boulder less than 1 minutes walk away (facing out) from NSWM, just before the 'Butthole Surfer' Cave. Sit start with the large letterbox pocket and RH sloper (of Gay Hip Flexor)and head straight through the roof via a big move to a deep pocket. Make another big move to the good edge on the lip, then directly up for the jugs.	V3	Boulder	Andrew Clark 13 weeks ago Managed to get off the ground this time. Still don't know what I did the first time I tried this... Andrew Clark 7 months ago Grrr... Couldn't get off the ground.
21	Gay Hip Flexor The RH line. Starts on a hold below the sloper traverse line then gains this and heads right via some small crimps, slopers to eventually finish up the V1.	V7	Boulder
22	No. 24	V6	Boulder	Daniel da Silva 5 years ago sweet moves Sebastian Sakowicz 8 years ago Not to hard for 6.
23	Flexor Traverse Start as for the 'Unnamed' V1 then keep traversing the break leftwards to finish up Ross's Problem.	V2	Boulder	Andrew Clark 13 weeks ago Surprised I haven't ticked this before? Maybe my record keeping is not as good as it used to be?... Anthony Cuskelly 7 months ago Seems pretty hard for V2. Did most of the moves, not willing to really push for it without a mat.
24	Unflexed Sit start right of 'Gay Hip Flexor' and traverse left a few moves, then up on jugs through the groove to finish. A couple of fun variants exist straight through the roof here as well.	V1	Boulder	Luke 9 days ago Not bad Andrew Clark 13 weeks ago Also surprised I hadn't ticked this before... shrugs Nice little warm up.
25	Minus A variation within the Butthole Cave. Starts just left of 'Butthole Surfer', then heads directly out through the roof in the direction of the No Sex With Mushrooms boulder.	V5	Boulder	Damien Ayers 1 years ago Not really that hard. Big committing move for the lip. With Tom and Cam. Tom Kjaer-Olsen 1 years ago Nice fun roof problem, a little hard stopping the swing while pulling the lip. Easy for a V5, I t...
26	Plus Another variation within the Butthole Cave. Starts as for 'Minus', then bisects the 'Worm Saloon' traverseline via a big move out to the lip.	V7	Boulder	Andrew Clark 7 months ago Still hard. Think I've sorted out the feet to shift down into the LH pocket. Shame it's so sharp. Phil Neville 7 years ago pretty easy really, big move around lip. 2nd shot.
27	Worm Saloon This and the next 4 problems are located on the raised ledge of the 'Butthole Surfer' Cave, within view of 'Gay Hip Flexor' down and to the left. FA: Will Detmold, 2000	V8	Boulder
28	Butthole Surfer Low roof starting with a sit-start on a terrace and heading directly out to the lip and up overhanging face. FA: Klem Loskot, 1999	V10	Boulder	Daniel da Silva 5 years ago Just special
29	The Scorpion King The very dangerous problem just right of 'Butthole Surfer' and climbing out to the obvious pockets on the overhanging face above and bad landing (the drop off the terrace). FA: Gerard Bergmann, 2002	V13	Boulder
30	Gourmet Cat A gourmet for sure, starts on an obvious rail, finishes on top. two small crimps lead up the center of the face, and a big move to the jug/lip. simple and sweet FA: Klem Loskot, 1999	V8	Boulder	Joshua Merriam 1 years ago Must suit my style perfectly, loved that move to the top. piece of cake, first try Alister Robertson 7 years ago 5-6 goes. 3 moves to victory.
31	Nimbus 2000 Sit start with sidepull and pocket. Move up and Lt to sharp crimps. Top out left of block on top.	V5	Boulder
32	Connection Sit start with side pull and pockets. Desperately to small crimps then dyno to lip when falling off.	V6	Boulder
33	Disconnected Sit start at lip on LHS of cave and up left side on good holds	V3	Boulder	Luke 9 days ago "The holds just kept appearing" - I believe was the comment someone made while climbing it, agree...
34	Obelisk Start at back of cave and head out through roof on LHS to finish up.	V4	Boulder	Luke 9 days ago I was under the impression this was a V5, my bad! It meant I tried that much harder for it ;op en...
35	Asterix Same start as connection through roof to hard mantle with pocket over low lip at side of cave.	V6	Boulder
36	Fat Cow The direct to Da-Lai-Lahmung going straight up from the big pocket via a big move and topping out. FA: Matt Adams, 2000	V6	Boulder	shaunm 8 months ago awsome big moves Andrew Lightfoot 1 years ago Holy cow so much fun!!! Commiting top move that took a bit of psyche and some new beta to get past.
37	Da-Lai-Lahmung Span dependant. Standing start. Up to poor pocket, then big move up to large pocket. Re-arrange the hands, then span out right to the intermediate edge, then bigger span out to the jug on the arete. Match this and motor up on more jugs to topout. FA: Toni Lamprecht, 1999	V9	Boulder	Alister Robertson 5 years ago so fucking rad!
38	Raumschiff Enterpriess This problem is located on a seperate boulder behind the Da Lai Lahmung area. It takes the major line from a sit start then through the roof.	V4	Boulder	Luke 9 days ago Had some fun on this one! Anthony Cuskelly 4 months ago On a day I'd brought two left feet. Good to have it done.

1.6. Titanic Boulder 9 routes in Boulder

Summary:: All Boulder
Long/Lat: 142.391108, -36.910842
Description:: A couple of boulders along side the Mt Stapylton walking track
Approach:: Coming soon...
History:: Coming soon...

	Route	Grade	Style
Hide Hide
1	S.O.S. Stand starts with a left hand slot and a right hand shallow pocket, move up and left on some pockets then top out onto the slab above.	V9	Boulder
2	Overboard Starts as 'S.O.S.' but climbs straight up.	V8	Boulder
3	Iceberg Left Start as for 'Drowning Dicaprio', make some hard moves to gain the large side-pull, then climb left and finish as for 'Overboard'.	V10	Boulder
4	Iceberg Start as for 'Iceberg Left' but continue straight up and top out onto the slab.	V10	Boulder
5	Drowning Dicaprio Low awkward start at the base of the flake line, traverse right on some holds in the seam then make a big move to continue up on jugs.	V6	Boulder
6	Collision Course Start on two underclings (don't stack pads) then move up to the rail and finish as for 'Drowning Dicaprio'.	V9	Boulder
7	Umbra Start as for 'Collision Course' but after you gain the large rail continue right across some slopers to finish up 'Not Drowning, Waving'.	V10	Boulder
8	Not Drowning, Waving Sit Start on the jug almost in between the two boulders, climb to the top on good holds.	V2	Boulder
9	Corner Crack Sit start in the corner to the right of 'Not Drowning, Waving' and climb up the crack.	V0	Boulder

1.7. Doddery Rock 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:: Trad,Top Rope
Description:© (nmonteith): A very small plug of rock more suitable for bouldering than actual roped climbing. Ignoring that fact there are now 12 routes squeezed onto this 40 square metre block!
Approach:© (nmonteith): Located about 40m before you reach the main 'Mt Pleasant' clifff line. There are climbs on all sides, so shade is possible all day. A bouldering mat could be more useful than a rope and rack.

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	To Be Young Why was this bolted? Bring a boulder mat and enjoy the freedom. Two starts - tall people start left at big crack. Stick-clip first ring bolt. Climb towards ring bolt then out left to jug, back into centre pockets and up. 3 rings in all, and triple rings on top. FA: Trevor Wall, 2007	20	Trad 6m	Neil Monteith 5 years ago This is a boulder problem. I climbed past 3 bolts in 6m?!!!!
2	Leigh Project		Trad 8m
3	Ulcerations Left 1.5m of 'Staying Grey'. Follow obvious jugs up diagonally left to narrow slot in face that leads to V-break. FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Colless, 2007	7	Trad 6m
4	Walking Frame Direct Hanging start to gain crack and up. FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2006	10	Trad 8m
5	Walking Frame Move left up ramp, 1m left of Y-Fronts, to crack and up. FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007	7	Trad 10m
6	Nose Hairs Obvious chimney. Free hanging start, pull up into chimney. About halfway move out slightly right, up over protruding block. Move back on line to top. FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Coles, 2006	8	Trad 8m
7	Pension Days Start on the white rock on the South East corner. Up to horizontal break, then follow this left 4m. Through tree to shallow corner above, move left to finish. FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron barrett, 2007	7	Trad 8m
8	Saggy Jugs Start left around corner from boulder, working right up to large jug on corner. Then straight up to the top on thinning holds. Pro is thin. FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Colless, 2007	12	Trad 8m
9	Getting Away From the Olds Not exactly inspiring. On the the North face (the first face you reach). FA: Trevor Wall (solo), 2007	3	Trad 6m
10	Trevs Project		Trad 8m
11	Granpa's Y-Fronts 2m left of 'Pension Days'. Up through shallow cracks and breaks. FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007	7	Trad 8m
12	Staying Grey Start 1.5m left of 'To Be Young'. Work straight up the jugs until you hit ramp. Work right up ramp and over. Thin gear. FA: Trevor Wall, Cameron Barrett, Leigh Colless, Meily Effendy, 2007	16	Trad 7m
13	No Respite ... from this major endurance route? Starts 3m right of GAFTO. Start at orange crack between tree and small cave. Move through cracks and slightly left, up past bollard to easier ground. FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007	17	Trad 8m

1.8. Mt Pleasant 0 routes in Area

Description:© (nmonteith): A small cliff within easy flat walking distance of the 'Mt Stapylton Campground'. The sort of thing you stumble across when killing time on a miserable wet weekend - and quite useful on those sorts of occasions. Only a few routes are actualy worth climbing here and some of the bolting is questionable (ie routes are contrived, short or bolts are right next to bomber trad)
Approach:© (nmonteith): From the Aboriginal art site car park cross the creek (involves fighting through unpleasant thick new growth but is mercifully short) to the open flats beyond. Turn left and follow these flats for about 10 minutes to a small steep block distinguished by a large red overhang/cave across the front of the main buttress. The cliff has two prominent corner lines on its left side. The right hand one starts above the left end of the main cave and can be accessed from a handy block, this is OP&OH.

1.9. Sentry Wall 0 routes in Area

Description:© (nmonteith): A very small gritstone-like crag with limited quality climbing. Can be padded out with some of the other smaller crags in the area to make a good day out.
Approach:© (nmonteith): Walk to Mini 'Castle Crag', then walk uphill eastwards up a broad gully through small rock terraces for about 150 metres to a small cliff with a narrow chimney near the left end. This is 'Sentry Wall'. Descent is either via the chimney, a gully due North of the chimney or at the southern end. Climbs are described from left to right.

2. Index by grade

Grade	Name	Style	Area
3	Getting Away From the Olds	Trad 6m	1.7. Doddery Rock
5	Free Hangin	Trad 12m	1. Mt Stapylton Campground
	Philip	Trad 10m	1. Mt Stapylton Campground
	Sentry Arête	Trad 12m	1. Mt Stapylton Campground
	Sheila G	Trad 12m	1. Mt Stapylton Campground
6	Abbren	Trad 8m	1. Mt Stapylton Campground
	Alpine Experience	Trad 12m	1. Mt Stapylton Campground
7	Granpa's Y-Fronts	Trad 8m	1.7. Doddery Rock
	Pension Days	Trad 8m	1.7. Doddery Rock
	Ulcerations	Trad 6m	1.7. Doddery Rock
	Walking Frame	Trad 10m	1.7. Doddery Rock
8	Photographers Solo	Trad 10m	1.4. Warden Wall
	Nose Hairs	Trad 8m	1.7. Doddery Rock
9	The First Post	Trad 12m	1. Mt Stapylton Campground
10	Easier Puzzle	Trad 12m	1.1. Sentinel Cave
	Walking Frame Direct	Trad 8m	1.7. Doddery Rock
12	Hunter Valley	Trad 12m	1. Mt Stapylton Campground
	Sentry Line	Trad 15m	1. Mt Stapylton Campground
	Saggy Jugs	Trad 8m	1.7. Doddery Rock
14	Homebrew	Trad 9m	1. Mt Stapylton Campground
	Lovedale	Trad 10m	1. Mt Stapylton Campground
	OP&OH	Trad 12m	1. Mt Stapylton Campground
	Whinery Tour	Trad 20m	1. Mt Stapylton Campground
	Gormet	Trad 10m	1.4. Warden Wall
	Jump Gimli!	Trad 7m	1.4. Warden Wall
15	Battle of the Bulge	Trad 12m	1. Mt Stapylton Campground
	Cold At Dawn	Trad 12m	1. Mt Stapylton Campground
	Topple Tor	Trad 15m	1. Mt Stapylton Campground
	Know Your Signals	Trad 14m	1.2. Sentinel Wall
	Tatiana	Trad 12m	1.2. Sentinel Wall
V0	Corner Crack	Boulder	1.6. Titanic Boulder
16	Aware	Trad 12m	1. Mt Stapylton Campground
	Elizabeth	Trad 10m	1. Mt Stapylton Campground
	Kymba	Trad 12m	1. Mt Stapylton Campground
	Leigh's Right	Trad 6m	1. Mt Stapylton Campground
	Semillon	Trad 12m	1. Mt Stapylton Campground
	Staying Grey	Trad 7m	1.7. Doddery Rock
17	If You’re Short, We Can Help	Trad 8m	1. Mt Stapylton Campground
	Rosehill	Trad 10m	1. Mt Stapylton Campground
	Half Shark Half Man	Sport 14m , 3	1.1. Sentinel Cave
	Fot as Huck	Sport 20m , 6	1.2. Sentinel Wall
	Crimps of Doom	Trad 10m	1.4. Warden Wall
	Rohans Route	Trad 10m	1.4. Warden Wall
	No Respite	Trad 8m	1.7. Doddery Rock
18	Mumjoy	Trad 12m	1. Mt Stapylton Campground
	Sunsation	Trad 15m	1.2. Sentinel Wall
	My Bitch Bubba	Trad 10m	1.4. Warden Wall
19	Fractionally Flamed	Sport 15m , 3	1.3. The Guardhouse
V1	Unflexed	Boulder	1.5. Campground Boulders
20	Dwarf Pumper	Sport 8m , 3	1.1. Sentinel Cave
	Sunraysia	Sport 20m , 5	1.2. Sentinel Wall
	To Be Young	Trad 6m	1.7. Doddery Rock
V2	Flexor Traverse	Boulder	1.5. Campground Boulders
	Mary	Boulder	1.5. Campground Boulders
	Not Drowning, Waving	Boulder	1.6. Titanic Boulder
21	Affluenza	Sport 14m , 5	1.3. The Guardhouse
22	Roof of Doom	Sport 35m	1.1. Sentinel Cave
	Screaming Barfies	Sport 10m , 4	1.1. Sentinel Cave
V3	Boundary	Boulder	1.5. Campground Boulders
	Disconnected	Boulder	1.5. Campground Boulders
	Ross's Problem	Boulder	1.5. Campground Boulders
	Super Deluxe	Boulder	1.5. Campground Boulders
23	Far Lap	Trad 25m	1.1. Sentinel Cave
	Media Puzzle	Sport 16m , 6	1.1. Sentinel Cave
	Media Puzzle Extension	Trad 18m	1.1. Sentinel Cave
	Stepping on Snakes	Sport 14m , 5	1.1. Sentinel Cave
	Line Of Sight	Sport 15m , 5	1.3. The Guardhouse
	Little George	Sport 14m , 4	1.3. The Guardhouse
	Miss Communication	Sport 10m , 4	1.3. The Guardhouse
V4	Obelisk	Boulder	1.5. Campground Boulders
	Raumschiff Enterpriess	Boulder	1.5. Campground Boulders
	Ultra Deluxe	Boulder	1.5. Campground Boulders
24	Felonies Under the Radar	Sport 11m , 5	1.3. The Guardhouse
	Ranger Danger	Sport 13m , 5	1.3. The Guardhouse
25	Makybe Diva	Sport 7m	1.1. Sentinel Cave
V5	Minus	Boulder	1.5. Campground Boulders
	Nimbus 2000	Boulder	1.5. Campground Boulders
	No Sex After Mushrooms	Boulder	1.5. Campground Boulders
	Out of Bounds	Boulder	1.5. Campground Boulders
	Silly Putty	Boulder	1.5. Campground Boulders
	The Claw	Boulder	1.5. Campground Boulders
	The Dyno	Boulder	1.5. Campground Boulders
26	Antics	Sport 14m , 5	1.1. Sentinel Cave
	Army of Ants	Sport 15m , 5	1.1. Sentinel Cave
V6	Asterix	Boulder	1.5. Campground Boulders
	Connection	Boulder	1.5. Campground Boulders
	Fat Cow	Boulder	1.5. Campground Boulders
	No. 24	Boulder	1.5. Campground Boulders
	Pinch Dyno	Boulder	1.5. Campground Boulders
	Drowning Dicaprio	Boulder	1.6. Titanic Boulder
V7	Butt Gravity	Boulder	1.5. Campground Boulders
	Button Mushrooms	Boulder	1.5. Campground Boulders
	Gay Hip Flexor	Boulder	1.5. Campground Boulders
	Inspector Gadget	Boulder	1.5. Campground Boulders
	No Sex After Mushrooms LHV	Boulder	1.5. Campground Boulders
	Plus	Boulder	1.5. Campground Boulders
	happy camper	Boulder	1.5. Campground Boulders
V8	Butt Eater	Boulder	1.5. Campground Boulders
	Gourmet Cat	Boulder	1.5. Campground Boulders
	Happy Camper (Race Eater Variant)	Boulder	1.5. Campground Boulders
	Happy Camper Traverse	Boulder	1.5. Campground Boulders
	Worm Saloon	Boulder	1.5. Campground Boulders
	Overboard	Boulder	1.6. Titanic Boulder
V9	Da-Lai-Lahmung	Boulder	1.5. Campground Boulders
	Race Eater	Boulder	1.5. Campground Boulders
	Collision Course	Boulder	1.6. Titanic Boulder
	S.O.S.	Boulder	1.6. Titanic Boulder
V10	Butthole Surfer	Boulder	1.5. Campground Boulders
	Iceberg	Boulder	1.6. Titanic Boulder
	Iceberg Left	Boulder	1.6. Titanic Boulder
	Umbra	Boulder	1.6. Titanic Boulder
V13	The Scorpion King	Boulder	1.5. Campground Boulders
?	Project	Trad 8m	1. Mt Stapylton Campground
	Another Stupid Project	Sport Project 10m	1.1. Sentinel Cave
?	Project (Open)	Sport Project 10m	1.1. Sentinel Cave
	Leigh Project	Trad 8m	1.7. Doddery Rock
	Trevs Project	Trad 8m	1.7. Doddery Rock

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Crag Guide for Mt Stapylton Campground