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Table of contents

1. Mt Stapylton Campground 119 routes in Crag

Trad, Boulder and Sport

Long/Lat: 142.390496, -36.926573

Description:© (nmonteith)

You gotta love the lazy option! Instead of driving to some far flung part of the 'Grampians' you can explore what is close to your coffee, tent and esky. This guide records the new development that has occurred in the hidden crags within walking distance of the 'Mt Stapylton Campground' in the Northern 'Grampians' of Western 'Victoria'. Most of the better routes are steep bolted sport routes or easy short wall climbs on trad protection. The rock is coarse with a similar feel to the Blue Mountains and has patches of utter choss. If you are climbing on trad then take extra care as many of these routes have had limited repeats. If you want to clip bolts then this area is a great place to start your 'Grampians' experience. Leave your bolt plates at home - almost everything here is ring-bolted.

Don't chip, don't litter, don't shit at the crag (use toilets at campground), don't swear near tourists, don't drill within earshot of the campsite and lastly respect the Aboriginal art site by keeping your grubby mitts off nearby rock.

Access Issues:© (nmonteith)

As of September 2015 all Mt Stapylton Campground bouldering areas are closed to aid the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians following bushfires in January 2014. For more information visit:


By respecting these closures you are helping ensure the future of rock climbing in the area and the great work done by Parks Vic. By not respecting these closures you're being arrogant, disrespectful, and self-centred.

Thank you

Approach:© (nmonteith)

All these crags (apart from the bouldering) are accessed from a well worn track, but un-official, that leaves the south east corner of the Aboriginal Art Site carpark. Walk down the official loop track fro twenty metres before branching off to the right and into the bush. Within a few minutes you'll stumble upon the obvious free standing pillar of Mini 'Castle Crag'. The track to the other crags continues past this point (refer to map on this page).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Homebrew

Flake crack and shallow corner 3m right of 'Lovedale'. Also written up by C.Barrett as Dadjoe in '06.

FA: Ben Wright, Peter Kello, William Swinson, 2005

14 Trad 9m
2 Free Hangin

1 metre left of face with two FHs. Bridge between crack and sidewall, exit through the V break at the top of the crack.

FA: Cameron Barrett, Leigh Colless, 2006

5 Trad 12m
3 Elizabeth

The wide crack right of Philip. Take a large cam (Camalot 4+).

FA: Jeremy Maddox, Philip Armstrong, 2001

16 Trad 10m
4 Hunter Valley

Around left of OP&OH is another obvious corner line with an overhang at the top. The juggy cracks in the wall left of the corner then the line up the arete.

FA: Philip Armstrong, Jeremy Maddox, 2001

12 Trad 12m
5 Sheila G

Another mega line - not. Use boulder to start and gain arete, up to jugs and over.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007

5 Trad 12m
6 Philip

The easy chimney right of 'Rosehill'.

FA: Jeremy Maddox, 2001

5 Trad 10m
7 Lovedale

The knobbly cracks up the wall just right of the start of 'Semillon'.

FA: Jeremy Maddox, Philip Armstrong, 2001

14 Trad 10m
8 * Rosehill

Around right of the cave is an overhanging corner. Good jamming.

FA: Jeremy Maddox, Philip Armstrong, 2001

17 Trad 10m
9 Battle of the Bulge

The third route with this name in the Grampians! Next crack in the block after Phillip. Crank up crack and over middle of the bulge. Gear is thin. Originally climbed by bailing right into 'Elizabeth' under the bulge 02-12-2006.

FA: Trevor Wall, Meily Effendy, Leigh Colless and Chris Tamavic, 2007

15 Trad 12m
10 Semillon

Nice wall climbing up the left leading flake on the wall right of 'Elizabeth' finishing up the short hanging corner. Worth doing.

FA: Philip Armstrong, Jeremy Maddox, 2001

16 Trad 12m
11 Alpine Experience

Optimistic. First corner right of Shiela G. Pull up into knobbly corner and work up on good holds. Pull up onto ledge and continue up bridging corner. Some holds are brittle.

FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Colless, 2007

6 Trad 12m
12 Leigh's Right

Why was this bolted? 1m right of the previous route. Single FH up very short wall. Better to boulder this one.

FA: Leigh Colless, Cameron Barrett, 2007

16 Trad 6m
13 * Mumjoy

In memory of Cameron's mother who died late 2006. Obvious V crack with slight roof left of OP&OH. Begin as of 'Hunter Valley', traversing right into crack past FH. Follow crack line into roof, move out left under roof following crack to the top. Second may have a swing - two ropes might be useful.

FA: Cameron Barrett, Leigh Colless and Chris Tamavic, 2006

18 Trad 12m
14 Kymba

Contrived, with bolts right next to crack. Shallow cracks, right of fixed hangers, to pocket move to orange rock and straight up to finish at shallow V at top. Don't use boulder to start.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2006

16 Trad 12m
15 Project

Single FH with red tag.

FA: Cameron ect?, 2000

Trad 8m
16 Whinery Tour

Start as for OP&OH. Do the crux of that route, then traverse right above the void until able to finish up the next corner.

FA: Stu Dobbie, Jim Kane, Jack Lewis, 2005

14 Trad 20m
17 Abbren

Crack line at far east end of cliff.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007

6 Trad 8m
18 If You’re Short, We Can Help

Accidently retro-bolted and written up by C.Barrett in '07. 5m right of 'Homebrew', good moves up orange wall. Up through double pock hole past FH to sidepulls, and straight up above horizontal break.

FA: Ben Wright, Peter Kello, 2005

17 Trad 8m
19 * OP&OH

The corner starting above the left end of the roof of the cave. From the top of the large block haul into the line and up.

FA: Philip Armstrong, Jeremy Maddox, 2001

14 Trad 12m
20 Topple Tor

Scramble around the bottom of the broken buttresses for about 50 metres to an undercut, leaning stack. The steep southwest arête.

FA: Bedford

FA: Lyons, Gordon

FA: Gary, 2005

15 Trad 15m
21 The First Post

Five metres left of the chimney. A nice short corner to a ledge. 'Escape' off right or thrutch up a wide crack to top.

FA: Gordon Bedford, Gary Lyons, 2005

9 Trad 12m
22 Aware

Three metres right of the chimney. The steep crack through the bulge at the top.

FA: Gary Lyons, Gordon Bedford, 2005

16 Trad 12m
23 Cold At Dawn

Five metres right of 'Aware'. The steep right facing flake crack.

FA: Gary Lyons, Gordon Bedford, 2005

15 Trad 12m
24 Sentry Line

On the eastern face on the other side of the block directly over from 'Aware'. Starts in a small alcove. The narrow, left leaning crack that finishes the semi-circular break in the top overhang.

FA: Gary Lyons, Gordon Bedford, 2005

12 Trad 15m
25 Sentry Arête

The right hand rib of the chimney.

FA: Gordon Bedford, Gary Lyons, 2005

5 Trad 12m

1.1. Sentinel Cave 15 routes in Cliff

Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 142.389453, -36.932076

Description:© (nmonteith)

One of the more popular 'dry in any weather' venues for the mid grade sport climber. This is a large cave high up in the valley behind Stapylton campground with an easy flat walk-in. This area features short and very steep sport routes on coarse orange rock. A large viewing area makes this a fun place to hang out with a bunch of mates and watch the sun set whilst cranking some of the sweet routes. Be very careful on the access traverse into the cave, one slip and you're dead. In wet weather it is advised to rope up for the scramble traverse into the cave and exit by abseiling back out of the cave.

Crag gets late afternoon sun in summer and full sun from midday in winter.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Park at the 'Mt Stapylton Campground' aboriginal shelter carpark (Cave of Ghosts) which is south from the camping area. Walk south east following small track on the east side of a vegetated creek. A few minutes into the walk you will pass an isolated pillar of rock 'Castle Crag' with a few ok trad routes on it. Keep following the track, walking along flat ground amongst ferns with minor cliffs and boulders on your left. After 5 minutes the track goes into gumtrees, keep walking in the same direction on a vague track for another few minutes. Spot the cave itself in front and to the left a little up the hill in the distance.Try and locate some rock cairns and follow these left up a gentle hill. Follow left branch of 'creek' up small rock gully on the left side of the cave until you can traverse directly right across exposed rock to get into the cave. Two RB's are positioned along this traverse to use as an anchor to belay people who may be scared of the traverse. The ringbolt can also be used to abseil out of the cave when the traverse is wet from rain.

GPS - 36.55.900s, 142.23.372e

History:© (nmonteith)

Discovered by Neil Monteith & Joe Morgan in 2003 on a cold wet winter's day of misery. Drills arrived shortly after.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Green Moon

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

Set by Neil Monteith, 2012

16 Sport 15m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Easier Puzzle

Easy trad climbing on big jugs. Start at small corner break 2m left of 'Half Shark Half Man'. Follow corner to finish at ledge and HSHM anchors.

FA: Phil Neville, Joe Morgan-Payler & Michael Schedlberger, 2003

10 R Trad 12m
3 Half Shark Half Man

Steep and juggy sport warm-up at the far left end of the cave. Starts halfway across the approach traverse at single u-bolt belay. Up through orange jugs and then grey cracked face. Runout between bolt 1 and 2 is a bit scary.

FA: Joe Morgan-Payler, Stephen Hawkshaw & Neil Monteith, 2003

17 R Sport 14m, 3
4 ** Media Puzzle

Good pumpy workout on nice orange rock. Starts at left end of cave at small well chalked rooflet. Stick-clip first bolt. Out left across crux roof past two RB's then up scoops on jugs (2 RB's) to good rest. Step right and thug through steep territory past final RB to jugs and DRB lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith, Joe Morgan-Payler & Jacqui Middleton, 2003

23 Sport 16m, 6
5 * Media Puzzle Extension

An excellent bonus finish to 'Media Puzzle'. From double ringbolts monkey upside down on jugs out right along the horizontal break for 4m past 2 extra FH's then up to chains (crux).

FA: Peter Daish & Damian Hall, 2003

23 Sport 18m
6 Far Lap

A long scary trad traverse from the fourth bolt on 'Media Puzzle' across to the first bolt in the roof on 'Antics'. The middle of the traverse is very un-protected, with ground fall potential very likely.

FA: Gareth Llewelin, Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith, 2005

23 Trad 25m
7 Another Stupid Project

A bit stupid. Starts 2m right of Media Puzzle - up a few metres then traverse left across MP to anchor. Bolted by Monty in the dark ages.

Sport Project 10m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
8 Makybe Diva

Short and brutal in true Nowra fashion. A direct start to 'Antics'. Starts 10m right of Media Puzzle at ground level. Three FH's. Either lower off first bolt on 'Antics' or continue outwards for the full grade 26 finish.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2004

25 Sport 7m
9 Roof of Doom

Anyone say girdle? A scuttling novelty route across a big roof. Originally attempted on trad – but after Neil pulled a huge block off the lip and plummeted headfirst onto the halfway ledge it was decided to bolt it. Climb to first bolt on 'Stepping on Snakes', traverse left across 'Army of Ants' to big ledge. Walk left across this to FH and keep going across line (big cams) to roof flake (FH). Out impressive 3m roof and up steep arete past RB to lower off bolts.

FA: Neil Monteith, Jacqui Middleton & Joe Morgan-Payler, 2003

22 Sport 35m
10 Project (Open)

Line of FHs through roof left of 'Antics'. Attempted by a few - maybe 28+? Bolted by Monty in 2004.

FA: Equipped Neil Monteith, 2004

Sport Project 10m
11 * Antics

Another HB signature roof route. Follow 'Army of Ants' to first bolt, then traverse left to ledge. Climb left leading roof flakes through 5m ceiling directly above the ledge past 4 FH's to lip. Back jump to clean. No anchor.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2003

26 Sport 14m, 5
12 ** Army of Ants

Short, powerful and popular. Start just right of small arete in centre of cave at ground level. Don't wear slip-ons unless you're OK with losing a shoe mid-route! Thin reachy face to start precedes big dynamic moves up steep wall and finish via big scoopy roof 1 FH & 4 RB's. Lower off chain.

FA: Rohan Archibald, Neil Monteith & Jacqui Middleton, 2003

26 Sport 15m, 5
13 ** Stepping on Snakes

Classic steep thugging. Mantle onto slab then up very steep horizontals to final roof dyno. Five RB's and double RB lower off. Watch your back when lowering off.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2002

23 Sport 14m, 5
14 Screaming Barfies

Easier start just right of SOS – then finish left as for SOS through the roof. 4 U-bolts.

FA: Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie, 2006

22 Sport 10m, 4
15 Dwarf Pumper

Self explanatory. Far right side of cave. A 'Nowra' style mini pumpfest. Three RB's up steep orange wall. Double RB lower off at top.

FA: Neil Monteith & Joe Morgan-Payler, 2002

20 Sport 8m, 3

1.2. Sentinel Wall 5 routes in Cliff

Trad and Sport
Description:© (nmonteith)

A small vertical wall with two good warm-up sport routes, and some very average trad routes. This orange wall is located opposite 'Sentinel Cave', just 100m away on the other side of the access gully. Scramble across to the left side and up right onto a ledge where the two bolted routes are. The trad routes are further right. Afternoon sun.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sunsation

A contrived left varient of 'Fot as Huck'. Start slightly left of 'Fot as Huck'. Up to thread then stick left as you climb the jugs out to the left avoiding the bolted line. Watch for explodo jugs.

FA: Stephen Hawkshaw & Andrew Morrison, 2003

18 Trad 15m
2 ** Fot as Huck

Great easy sport route! Left most bolted line on right edge of roofy section. Big jugs up slightly overhung wall finishing at bolt anchor slightly to the right. Retrobolted - originally a trad route.

FA: Joe Morgan-Payler, 2002

17 Sport 20m, 6
3 * Sunraysia

Starts about 4m right of 'Fot as Huck'. Long reaches between good holds trending left to the same anchor as 'Fot as Huck'. Originally a trad route.

FA: Neil Monteith & Joe Morgan-Payler, 2002

20 Sport 20m, 5
4 * Tatiana

Start 2m right of central crack on buttress slightly downhill and right from 'Sunraysia'. Up through thin start to pockets and past technical finish to tree belay.

FA: Michael Schedlberger, Phil Neville, Joe Morgan-Payler, 2003

15 Trad 12m
5 Know Your Signals

Start 4m right of dirty roof hand crack and right of 'Tatiana'. Follow weakness through thin start to under roof. Watch for loose rock. Traverse left 2m and finish at tree belay.

FA: Phil Neville, Michael Schedlberger, Joe Morgan-Payler, 2003

15 Trad 14m

1.3. The Guardhouse 7 routes in Cliff

All Sport

Long/Lat: 142.389889, -36.928747

Description:© (nmonteith)

Home of the gritty sloper and the quick pump! A small, gently overhung amphitheater of rock with a couple of good Blue Mountains style sport routes. The orange wall is clearly visible on the hillside when driving in from the west past the olive grove. Pack a handful of draws and some forearms.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Refer to map one level up for access. Start the walk in as for 'Sentinel Cave'. After hopping over a big dead tree about 8 minutes into the walk, and past the last of the small cliffs on the left, turn left and follow small creek bed steeply uphill heading for the semi-obvious orange wall high on the hill. Some rock cairns and yellow tape mark the way, but there is no good track (yet). Once you get to the crag itself scramble up ledges on the right and walk left to small fixed rope to get to base of wall. You can scramble up the grade 1 left hand side of the crag to reach the top if you wish. Be careful, the rock is shit and it's exposed!

Total approach time is 20 minutes. Shade and breezes until 2pm in summer. Most routes stay dry in light showers - but after extended rain the seepage drains down 'Little George' and 'Ranger Danger'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Affluenza

Far left most route. Start direct under the first bolt at grade 21, or climb in from the left at 20. A tricky mantle in the middle spoils the pumpy slopy fun. Five RBs and lower-off. Be wary of the last few metres, the jugs are a bit too big for comfort.

FA: Neil Monteith & Steve Bright, 2007

21 Sport 14m, 5
2 * Line Of Sight

Possibly the best route at the Guardhouse. Wave to the scout hoards at Staplyton Campground as you pull to glory through the ceiling. Located on left side of wall. Reachy orange goodness to start to reach prominent roof cave. Over roof and up right side of subtle arête to final juggy wall. 5 UBs and double UB lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2006

23 Sport 15m, 5
3 * Felonies Under the Radar

A punchy start (sandbag?) leads to a sustained finish through and around the roof. Stick clip the first bolt, then four more to the anchors.

Start: 3rd bolted line from the left.

FA: Adam Demmert, 2008

24 Sport 11m, 5
4 * Miss Communication

Short punchy number. The 4th bolted route from the left with the white stained scoop in the middle. Up slopers to roof heuco. Over this on incuts then one final tough move to jugs. Chain anchor. 4 RBs.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

23 Sport 10m, 4
5 * Little George

Named after George the baby gecko, that hitched a ride on a backpack all the way to Brunswick... causing havoc at Jac's place for two weeks before being returned to the Grampians! Follows left-trending line of four ringbolts in centre of crag just right of big scoopy hueco in rooflet. Stroll through delicate start just left of first bolt, locate the secret hold, and march your way to glory over steep juggy terrain. Double RB lower off.

FA: Jacqui Middleton & Neil Monteith, 2003

23 Sport 14m, 4
6 * Ranger Danger

Weaves around black streak on far right side of main wall. Bouldery start (stick clip ring) up slopers and slots to easier ground. At halfway head slightly right to rest stance then up past hidden RB (scary clip!) and crux dyno. Finish up steep jugs. Five RBs and DRB lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2003

24 Sport 13m, 5
7 Fractionally Flamed

Sandy slopers. Starts back at ground level and 40m right of the main wall. White clean streak on otherwise juggy grey wall. A tad runout for the inexperienced. 3 RBs and lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith & Steve Bright, 2007

19 Sport 15m, 3

1.4. Warden Wall 6 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.385731, -36.928433

Description:© (nmonteith)

Small featured wall on left side of track about 100m past Mini 'Castle Crag' on the walk in to 'Sentinel Cave'. These are short trad routes on good rock. Topropes are easy to setup. Afternoon sun.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Crimps of Doom

Face around corner 2m left of 'Rohans Route', a few balancy crimp moves gets you to the top.

FA: Joe Morgan-Payler, 2003

17 Trad 10m
2 Rohans Route

A hard and bold mantle at the start reaches jugs (crux) and easy hauling to top.

FA: Rohan Archibald

17 Trad 10m
3 * Gormet

Nice climbing up an attractive line. Follow orange corner to top.

FA: Hanh Le, 2003

14 Trad 10m
4 * My Bitch Bubba

Same start as for 'Gormet', only stepping onto thin face after reaching first block, then following the break on left-hand side of face.

FA: Tuan Le, 2003

18 Trad 10m
5 Photographers Solo

Best access to top as well as an easy down climb.

8 Trad 10m
6 Jump Gimli!

Located on wall right of main 'Warden Wall'. Climb straight up from slight scoop in the wall 2m from right-hand end. Short climbers will need to use dynamic technique.

FA: Jack Lewis, Simon Punt, Cameron Barrett, 2003

14 Trad 7m

1.5. Campground Boulders 39 routes in Cliff

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 142.387344, -36.921344

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Super Deluxe

The straight up problem off the slot and edge.

V3 Boulder 4m
2 ** Ultra Deluxe

Same start as previous problem but head right through the twin pockets then up through twin edges and top out.

V4 Boulder 5m
3 ** Inspector Gadget

Long deadpoint to slopey crimp from slopey pockets.

FA: Matt Adams, 2000

V7 Boulder
4 The Claw

Starts right of 'Inspector Gadget'. Sharp pocket (LH) to slopey edge, then pocket to jug.

V5 Boulder
5 Pinch Dyno V6 Boulder
6 * The Dyno

An eliminate dyno from the slopey crimps (LH one with prominent thumb catch)straight to the letterbox slot (right of 'The Claw').

V5 Boulder
7 Mary

Up through undercling and along the lip to surprisingly difficult mantle.

V2 Boulder 4m
8 * Silly Putty

Starts left of 'Butt Gravity'. Sit start up on the ledge with the large pocket on the vague arete and make a big move into the huge slot. Make further big moves through the lip then move through the huecos to the left and top out through jugs. Has a reputation for being hard for the grade, particularly if you are short.

V6 Boulder
9 * Silly Putty Direct

Follow 'Silly Putty' through to the lip, then traverse it right to the pocket and make a big move to the jug on the face then top out over right side of main arret.

V6 Boulder 4m
10 * Butt Gravity

Sit start low under the roof matching a slot, then out to a pocket, crimp, then BIG move up and left to a good 4-finger pocket. Join 'Silly Putty' at the top. Sharp.

FA: Julian Saunders, 2000

V7 Boulder
11 * Butt Eater

Link up of 'Butt Gravity' into Race Eater Variant.

FA: Tilly Parkins?, 2000

V8 Boulder
12 ** Race Eater

As for 'Happy Camper' but keep traversing leftwards to join 'Butt Gravity' and finish up that problem. Crux is the big move to the 4-finger pocket (on 'Butt Gravity').

FA: Klem Loskot (flashed), 2000

V9 Boulder
13 ** Happy Camper (Race Eater Variant)

More commonly referred to as 'Race Eater' nowadays, but worth noting that this is in fact the original 'Happy Camper' problem. Sit start with obvious sickle-shaped jug (as for HCT/NSWM), then traverse immediately left to big undercling. Instead of continuing left into 'Butt Gravity' (Race Eater), climb straight out the lip via crimps and sloper to join the 'Happy Camper Traverse'. Finish as for that problem.

FA: Paul Westwood, 2000

V8 Boulder
14 *** Happy Camper Traverse

Climb NSAM to the traverseline, then head left along the line of small crimps. Completely finger size dependant. Watch your back.

V8 Boulder
15 happy camper

As per Grampians bouldering guide.

V7 Boulder
16 * Button Mushrooms

Start as for 'Butt Gravity' but head directly out to traverseline of Race Eater. Traverse right all the way to the start of 'NSAM' and finish up this.

V7 Boulder
17 ** No Sex After Mushrooms / NSAM

Sit start in big hueco (as for Happy Camper & Race Eater), then head straight out to letterbox slot and sloper. Dyno to good hold. Topout's not as easy as it seems... Arguably about as hard as 'Silly Putty'.

V5 Boulder
18 * No Sex After Mushrooms LHV

Start as for the original problem then head left and up through the sloper and edge. Rarely done.

V7 Boulder
19 Boundary

Sit start 3m left of 'No Sex After Mushrooms'. Up to double pocket and beyond.

V3 Boulder
20 * Out of Bounds

Start as for 'NSAM' to seam then traverse and finish up 'Boundary'

V5 Boulder

Hip Flexor Boulder

This and the next 4 problems are located on a separate boulder less than 1 minutes walk away (facing out) from NSWM, just before the 'Butthole Surfer' Cave.

21 ** Ross's Problem

Sit start with the a left edge and right hand pocket and head straight through the roof via a slopey rail followed by a big move to a deep pocket. Make another big move to the good edge on the lip, then directly up for the jugs.

V4 Boulder
22 * Gay Hip Flexor

The RH line. Starts on a hold below the sloper traverse line then gains this and heads right via some small crimps, slopers to eventually finish up the V1.

V7 Boulder
23 No. 24 V6 Boulder
24 * Flexor Traverse

Start as for the 'Unnamed' V1 then keep traversing the break leftwards to finish up Ross's Problem.

V2 Boulder 9m
25 Unflexed

Sit start right of 'Gay Hip Flexor' and traverse left a few moves, then up on jugs through the groove to finish. A couple of fun variants exist straight through the roof here as well.

V1 Boulder 4m

Butthole Surfter Area

A few meters on from the 'Hip Flexor Boulder'.

26 ** Minus

A variation within the Butthole Cave. Starts just left of 'Butthole Surfer', then heads directly out through the roof in the direction of the No Sex With Mushrooms boulder.

V4 Boulder
27 * Plus

Another variation within the Butthole Cave. Starts as for 'Minus', then bisects the 'Worm Saloon' traverseline via a big move out to the lip.

V7 Boulder
28 ** Worm Saloon

This and the next 4 problems are located on the raised ledge of the 'Butthole Surfer' Cave, within view of 'Gay Hip Flexor' down and to the left.

FA: Will Detmold, 2000

V8 Boulder
29 *** Butthole Surfer

Low roof starting with a sit-start on a terrace and heading directly out to the lip and up overhanging face.

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

V10 Boulder
30 The Scorpion King

The very dangerous problem just right of 'Butthole Surfer' and climbing out to the obvious pockets on the overhanging face above and bad landing (the drop off the terrace).

FA: Gerard Bergmann, 2002

V13 Boulder
31 ** Gourmet Cat

A gourmet for sure, starts on an obvious rail, finishes on top. two small crimps lead up the center of the face, and a big move to the jug/lip. simple and sweet

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

V8 Boulder
32 Nimbus 2000

Sit start with sidepull and pocket. Move up and Lt to sharp crimps. Top out left of block on top.

V5 Boulder
33 * Connection

Sit start with side pull and pockets. Desperately to small crimps then dyno to lip when falling off.

V6 Boulder 4m
34 Disconnected

Sit start at lip on LHS of cave and up left side on good holds

V3 Boulder
35 Obelisk

Start at back of cave and head out through roof on LHS to finish up.

V4 Boulder
36 * Asterix

Same start as connection through roof to hard mantle with pocket over low lip at side of cave.

V6 Boulder
37 ** Fat Cow

The direct to Da-Lai-Lahmung going straight up from the big pocket via a big move and topping out.

FA: Matt Adams, 2000

V6 Boulder
38 * Da-Lai-Lahmung

Span dependant. Standing start. Up to poor pocket, then big move up to large pocket. Re-arrange the hands, then span out right to the intermediate edge, then bigger span out to the jug on the arete. Match this and motor up on more jugs to topout.

FA: Toni Lamprecht, 1999

V9 Boulder
39 Raumschiff Enterpriess

This problem is located on a seperate boulder behind the Da Lai Lahmung area. It takes the major line from a sit start then through the roof.

V4 Boulder 3m

1.6. Titanic Boulder 9 routes in Boulder

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 142.391108, -36.910842


A couple of boulders along side the Mt Stapylton walking track


Coming soon...


Coming soon...

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 S.O.S.

Stand starts with a left hand slot and a right hand shallow pocket, move up and left on some pockets then top out onto the slab above.

V9 Boulder
2 Overboard

Starts as 'S.O.S.' but climbs straight up.

V8 Boulder
3 Iceberg Left

Start as for 'Drowning Dicaprio', make some hard moves to gain the large side-pull, then climb left and finish as for 'Overboard'.

V10 Boulder
4 Iceberg

Start as for 'Iceberg Left' but continue straight up and top out onto the slab.

V10 Boulder
5 * Drowning Dicaprio

Low awkward start at the base of the flake line, traverse right on some holds in the seam then make a big move to continue up on jugs.

V6 Boulder
6 Collision Course

Start on two underclings (don't stack pads) then move up to the rail and finish as for 'Drowning Dicaprio'.

V9 Boulder
7 Umbra

Start as for 'Collision Course' but after you gain the large rail continue right across some slopers to finish up 'Not Drowning, Waving'.

V10 Boulder
8 Not Drowning, Waving

Sit Start on the jug almost in between the two boulders, climb to the top on good holds.

V2 Boulder
9 Corner Crack

Sit start in the corner to the right of 'Not Drowning, Waving' and climb up the crack.

V0 Boulder 3m

1.7. Doddery Rock 13 routes in Cliff

All Trad
Description:© (nmonteith)

A very small plug of rock more suitable for bouldering than actual roped climbing. Ignoring that fact there are now 12 routes squeezed onto this 40 square metre block!

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Located about 40m before you reach the main 'Mt Pleasant' clifff line. There are climbs on all sides, so shade is possible all day. A bouldering mat could be more useful than a rope and rack.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 To Be Young

Why was this bolted? Bring a boulder mat and enjoy the freedom. Two starts - tall people start left at big crack. Stick-clip first ring bolt. Climb towards ring bolt then out left to jug, back into centre pockets and up. 3 rings in all, and triple rings on top.

FA: Trevor Wall, 2007

20 Trad 6m
2 Leigh Project Trad 8m
3 Ulcerations

Left 1.5m of 'Staying Grey'. Follow obvious jugs up diagonally left to narrow slot in face that leads to V-break.

FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Colless, 2007

7 Trad 6m
4 Walking Frame Direct

Hanging start to gain crack and up.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2006

10 Trad 8m
5 Walking Frame

Move left up ramp, 1m left of Y-Fronts, to crack and up.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007

7 Trad 10m
6 Nose Hairs

Obvious chimney. Free hanging start, pull up into chimney. About halfway move out slightly right, up over protruding block. Move back on line to top.

FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Coles, 2006

8 Trad 8m
7 Pension Days

Start on the white rock on the South East corner. Up to horizontal break, then follow this left 4m. Through tree to shallow corner above, move left to finish.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron barrett, 2007

7 Trad 8m
8 Saggy Jugs

Start left around corner from boulder, working right up to large jug on corner. Then straight up to the top on thinning holds. Pro is thin.

FA: Cameron Barrett & Leigh Colless, 2007

12 Trad 8m
9 Getting Away From the Olds

Not exactly inspiring. On the the North face (the first face you reach).

FA: Trevor Wall (solo), 2007

3 Trad 6m
10 Trevs Project Trad 8m
11 Granpa's Y-Fronts

2m left of 'Pension Days'. Up through shallow cracks and breaks.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007

7 Trad 8m
12 Staying Grey

Start 1.5m left of 'To Be Young'. Work straight up the jugs until you hit ramp. Work right up ramp and over. Thin gear.

FA: Trevor Wall, Cameron Barrett, Leigh Colless, Meily Effendy, 2007

16 Trad 7m
13 No Respite

... from this major endurance route? Starts 3m right of GAFTO. Start at orange crack between tree and small cave. Move through cracks and slightly left, up past bollard to easier ground.

FA: Leigh Colless & Cameron Barrett, 2007

17 Trad 8m

1.8. Mt Pleasant 0 routes in Area

Description:© (nmonteith)

A small cliff within easy flat walking distance of the 'Mt Stapylton Campground'. The sort of thing you stumble across when killing time on a miserable wet weekend - and quite useful on those sorts of occasions. Only a few routes are actualy worth climbing here and some of the bolting is questionable (ie routes are contrived, short or bolts are right next to bomber trad)

Approach:© (nmonteith)

From the Aboriginal art site car park cross the creek (involves fighting through unpleasant thick new growth but is mercifully short) to the open flats beyond. Turn left and follow these flats for about 10 minutes to a small steep block distinguished by a large red overhang/cave across the front of the main buttress. The cliff has two prominent corner lines on its left side. The right hand one starts above the left end of the main cave and can be accessed from a handy block, this is OP&OH.

1.9. Sentry Wall 0 routes in Area

Description:© (nmonteith)

A very small gritstone-like crag with limited quality climbing. Can be padded out with some of the other smaller crags in the area to make a good day out.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

Walk to Mini 'Castle Crag', then walk uphill eastwards up a broad gully through small rock terraces for about 150 metres to a small cliff with a narrow chimney near the left end. This is 'Sentry Wall'. Descent is either via the chimney, a gully due North of the chimney or at the southern end. Climbs are described from left to right.

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
3 Getting Away From the Olds Trad 6m 1.7. Doddery Rock
5 Free Hangin Trad 12m 1. Mt Stapylton Campground
Philip Trad 10m 1. Mt Stapylton Campground
Sentry Arête Trad 12m 1. Mt Stapylton Campground
Sheila G Trad 12m 1. Mt Stapylton Campground
6 Abbren Trad 8m 1. Mt Stapylton Campground
Alpine Experience Trad 12m 1. Mt Stapylton Campground
7 Granpa's Y-Fronts Trad 8m 1.7. Doddery Rock
Pension Days Trad 8m 1.7. Doddery Rock
Ulcerations Trad 6m 1.7. Doddery Rock
Walking Frame Trad 10m 1.7. Doddery Rock
8 Photographers Solo Trad 10m 1.4. Warden Wall
Nose Hairs Trad 8m 1.7. Doddery Rock
9 The First Post Trad 12m 1. Mt Stapylton Campground
10 Walking Frame Direct Trad 8m 1.7. Doddery Rock
10 R Easier Puzzle Trad 12m 1.1. Sentinel Cave
12 Hunter Valley Trad 12m 1. Mt Stapylton Campground
Sentry Line Trad 15m 1. Mt Stapylton Campground
Saggy Jugs Trad 8m 1.7. Doddery Rock
14 Homebrew Trad 9m 1. Mt Stapylton Campground
Lovedale Trad 10m 1. Mt Stapylton Campground
* OP&OH Trad 12m 1. Mt Stapylton Campground
Whinery Tour Trad 20m 1. Mt Stapylton Campground
* Gormet Trad 10m 1.4. Warden Wall
Jump Gimli! Trad 7m 1.4. Warden Wall
15 Battle of the Bulge Trad 12m 1. Mt Stapylton Campground
Cold At Dawn Trad 12m 1. Mt Stapylton Campground
Topple Tor Trad 15m 1. Mt Stapylton Campground
Know Your Signals Trad 14m 1.2. Sentinel Wall
* Tatiana Trad 12m 1.2. Sentinel Wall
V0 Corner Crack Boulder 3m 1.6. Titanic Boulder
16 Aware Trad 12m 1. Mt Stapylton Campground
Elizabeth Trad 10m 1. Mt Stapylton Campground
Kymba Trad 12m 1. Mt Stapylton Campground
Leigh's Right Trad 6m 1. Mt Stapylton Campground
Semillon Trad 12m 1. Mt Stapylton Campground
Green Moon Sport 15m, 5 1.1. Sentinel Cave
Staying Grey Trad 7m 1.7. Doddery Rock
17 If You’re Short, We Can Help Trad 8m 1. Mt Stapylton Campground
* Rosehill Trad 10m 1. Mt Stapylton Campground
** Fot as Huck Sport 20m, 6 1.2. Sentinel Wall
Crimps of Doom Trad 10m 1.4. Warden Wall
Rohans Route Trad 10m 1.4. Warden Wall
No Respite Trad 8m 1.7. Doddery Rock
17 R Half Shark Half Man Sport 14m, 3 1.1. Sentinel Cave
18 * Mumjoy Trad 12m 1. Mt Stapylton Campground
Sunsation Trad 15m 1.2. Sentinel Wall
* My Bitch Bubba Trad 10m 1.4. Warden Wall
19 Fractionally Flamed Sport 15m, 3 1.3. The Guardhouse
V1 Unflexed Boulder 4m 1.5. Campground Boulders
20 Dwarf Pumper Sport 8m, 3 1.1. Sentinel Cave
* Sunraysia Sport 20m, 5 1.2. Sentinel Wall
To Be Young Trad 6m 1.7. Doddery Rock
V2 * Flexor Traverse Boulder 9m 1.5. Campground Boulders
Mary Boulder 4m 1.5. Campground Boulders
Not Drowning, Waving Boulder 1.6. Titanic Boulder
21 Affluenza Sport 14m, 5 1.3. The Guardhouse
22 Roof of Doom Sport 35m 1.1. Sentinel Cave
Screaming Barfies Sport 10m, 4 1.1. Sentinel Cave
V3 Boundary Boulder 1.5. Campground Boulders
Disconnected Boulder 1.5. Campground Boulders
Super Deluxe Boulder 4m 1.5. Campground Boulders
23 Far Lap Trad 25m 1.1. Sentinel Cave
** Media Puzzle Sport 16m, 6 1.1. Sentinel Cave
* Media Puzzle Extension Sport 18m 1.1. Sentinel Cave
** Stepping on Snakes Sport 14m, 5 1.1. Sentinel Cave
* Line Of Sight Sport 15m, 5 1.3. The Guardhouse
* Little George Sport 14m, 4 1.3. The Guardhouse
* Miss Communication Sport 10m, 4 1.3. The Guardhouse
V4 ** Minus Boulder 1.5. Campground Boulders
Obelisk Boulder 1.5. Campground Boulders
Raumschiff Enterpriess Boulder 3m 1.5. Campground Boulders
** Ross's Problem Boulder 1.5. Campground Boulders
** Ultra Deluxe Boulder 5m 1.5. Campground Boulders
24 * Felonies Under the Radar Sport 11m, 5 1.3. The Guardhouse
* Ranger Danger Sport 13m, 5 1.3. The Guardhouse
25 Makybe Diva Sport 7m 1.1. Sentinel Cave
V5 Nimbus 2000 Boulder 1.5. Campground Boulders
** No Sex After Mushrooms Boulder 1.5. Campground Boulders
* Out of Bounds Boulder 1.5. Campground Boulders
The Claw Boulder 1.5. Campground Boulders
* The Dyno Boulder 1.5. Campground Boulders
26 * Antics Sport 14m, 5 1.1. Sentinel Cave
** Army of Ants Sport 15m, 5 1.1. Sentinel Cave
V6 * Asterix Boulder 1.5. Campground Boulders
* Connection Boulder 4m 1.5. Campground Boulders
** Fat Cow Boulder 1.5. Campground Boulders
No. 24 Boulder 1.5. Campground Boulders
Pinch Dyno Boulder 1.5. Campground Boulders
* Silly Putty Boulder 1.5. Campground Boulders
* Silly Putty Direct Boulder 4m 1.5. Campground Boulders
* Drowning Dicaprio Boulder 1.6. Titanic Boulder
V7 * Butt Gravity Boulder 1.5. Campground Boulders
* Button Mushrooms Boulder 1.5. Campground Boulders
* Gay Hip Flexor Boulder 1.5. Campground Boulders
** Inspector Gadget Boulder 1.5. Campground Boulders
* No Sex After Mushrooms LHV Boulder 1.5. Campground Boulders
* Plus Boulder 1.5. Campground Boulders
happy camper Boulder 1.5. Campground Boulders
V8 * Butt Eater Boulder 1.5. Campground Boulders
** Gourmet Cat Boulder 1.5. Campground Boulders
** Happy Camper (Race Eater Variant) Boulder 1.5. Campground Boulders
*** Happy Camper Traverse Boulder 1.5. Campground Boulders
** Worm Saloon Boulder 1.5. Campground Boulders
Overboard Boulder 1.6. Titanic Boulder
V9 * Da-Lai-Lahmung Boulder 1.5. Campground Boulders
** Race Eater Boulder 1.5. Campground Boulders
Collision Course Boulder 1.6. Titanic Boulder
S.O.S. Boulder 1.6. Titanic Boulder
V10 *** Butthole Surfer Boulder 1.5. Campground Boulders
Iceberg Boulder 1.6. Titanic Boulder
Iceberg Left Boulder 1.6. Titanic Boulder
Umbra Boulder 1.6. Titanic Boulder
V13 The Scorpion King Boulder 1.5. Campground Boulders
? Project Trad 8m 1. Mt Stapylton Campground
Another Stupid Project Sport Project 10m 1.1. Sentinel Cave
? Project (Open) Sport Project 10m 1.1. Sentinel Cave
Leigh Project Trad 8m 1.7. Doddery Rock
Trevs Project Trad 8m 1.7. Doddery Rock