Routes as trad in Doddery Rock

. On the the North wall (the first wall you reach).

Starts 3m right of GAFTO. Start at orange crack between tree and small cave. Move through cracks and slightly left, up past bollard to easier ground.

Obvious chimney. Free hanging start, pull up into chimney. About halfway move out slightly right, up over protruding block. Move back on line to top.

Left 1.5m of 'Staying Grey'. Follow obvious jugs up diagonally left to narrow slot in face that leads to V-break.

Start 1.5m left of 'To Be Young'. Work straight up the jugs until you hit ramp. Work right up ramp and over. Thin gear.

Hanging start to gain crack and up.

Move left up ramp, 1m left of Y-Fronts, to crack and up.

2m left of 'Pension Days'. Up through shallow cracks and breaks.

Start on the white rock on the South East corner. Up to horizontal break, then follow this left 4m. Through tree to shallow corner above, move left to finish.

Start left around corner from boulder, working right up to large jug on corner. Then straight up to the top on thinning holds. Pro is thin.