A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Mt Thackeray 56 routes in Crag

Mostly Trad
Access Issues: inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

1.1. Party Wall 5 routes in Crag

All Trad
Approach:© (kieranl)

Drive 6.8 km south on 'Victoria' range Road from the Goat Track junction to a hair-pin bend. Descend the gully for about 50 metres the head right (facing out) to find a rock shelf. Follow this shelf to an obvious corner the left side of which is broken by a major chimney.

GR 191733 (Victoria Range 1:25000)

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Party Pooper

The chimney left of the corner.

FA: Dave Gairns, Stan Clusik, 1990

14Trad 25m
2 If It's Not On, Then It's Not On

Start up the corner for 6 metres then step left into crack-line and follow this.

FA: Gary Wills, Hugh Foxcroft, Peter Megens, 1990

18Trad 20m
3 Party Animal

Take the corner all the way. Pull out left around the summit block.

FA: B. Doolan, Peter Megens, Julie West, 1990

14Trad 20m
4 Looking For A Route

Start on wall right of the corner. Up through the bulge to the weakness, then the left crack to the top.

FA: Gary Wills, Peter Megens, 1990

19Trad 20m
5 Safe Sex

Start as for Looking For a route to the steepening then take the right-leaning crack to the top.

FA: Gary wills, Peter Megens, 1990

17Trad 16m

1.2. Taj Mahal 1 route in Crag

All Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

Next major cliff south of Magic Mountain. Park at the saddle just south of Party wall. Walk south-east through saddle and continue horizontally (?) for 10 minutes to cairn then down descent gully.

Originally called 'Mirage' Wall but there was already one of those.

Approach:© (kieranl)

GR 193729

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 EataMorgana

Major corner 10 metres right of descent gully. Previously named Fatmorgana. Maybe a typo somewhere.

FA: Gordon talbett, James McIntosh, 1994

17Trad 40m

1.3. The Magic Mountain 11 routes in Crag

Mostly Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

This area looks stunning from the 'Victoria' Valley but it's a bit disappointing. Left of the steep gully that splits the crag is one of Gariwerd's loosest, most dangerous faces. This is unclimbed.

Approach:© (kieranl)

Drive 6.6 kilometres south along the 'Victoria' range Road. Park 200 metres north of the 'Party Wall' hairpin, at the foot of a stony rise in the track. Head off left (east) and follow the creek down until able to cut back right (south) below outcrops to the main cliff.

GR 193734 (Victoria Range 1:25000)

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Arrival

The left-facing prominent corner.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Simon Mentz (alt) and Phil Wilkins, 1991

16Trad 40m
2 Father Gibney's Gallant Rescue

Quite good. Pitch lengths are guesses.

Start: Start below cracks on the left wall of the prominent corner of "Arrival"

  1. 20m (21) Up the face a couple of metres left of the corner to a ledge.

  2. 20m (19) Up a bit, then out right under roof to a really nice crack on arete.

FA: James Falla, Ant (alt) and Jon Muir, 1991

21Trad 40m
3 He Reviewed The Human Species As He Floated In Its Faeces

Start: Start at a distinct off-width corner about 20 metres left of "Arrival"

  1. 40m (19) Up corner, avoiding the use of off-width technique to tree.

  2. 10m (19) Up crack behind tree.

FA: james Falla, Ant (alt) and Jon Muir, 1991

19Trad 50m
4 In The Restaurant

Start: Start about 25-30 metres left of "He Reviewed..." at a good line with a bulging crack start.

  1. 35m (16) Steeply up the line and on past the tree into the corner. After a superb hand-crack, avoid a dirty, closed corner by traversing left. Go up and belay on any of a series of ledges

  2. 30m (-) Move back right and climb the wall, tending right, going just past the left side of an overhang to belay in a large cave. Take care with the rock on this pitch.

  3. 10m (-) Walk ro the right-hand end of the cave and go up through more bulges.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood (alt), 1991

16Trad 75m
5 At Tienappels

The grey corner marking the right-hand side of the wall. Beware of loose blocks.

FA: Unknown, 2000

14Trad 35m
6 Satana

The line up the face just left of the grey corner of "At Tienappels"

FA: Unknown, possibly Lincoln Shepherd, 1991

25Trad 35m
7 ** Mental Gymnastics

Great climbing. The right-hand line on the orange wall has a right-facing corner at 2/3 height.

  1. 10m (18) Short, steep wall with difficult protection to terrace. Up 2 metres to ledge.

  2. 25m (21) Up wall to base of corner then corner and crack to horizontal break. Now 4 metres wall (crux) to belay.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Kieran Loughran, 1991

21Trad 35m
8 Consumption

Awkward wall left of 'Mental Gymnastics' to terrace. Left-facing corner then the left-most of the major lines on the orange wall.

FA: Steve Monks, Kieran Loughran, 1992

23Trad 35m
9 Lothar

Wideish line marking left side of orange wall.

FA: Erik Lock, Nick Neagle, 1992

16Trad 35m
10 Felix The Cat

Up wall just left of wideish line.

FA: Nick Neagle, Erik Lock, 1992

17Unknown 35m
11 A Word Too Much

Sustained wall to base of left-facing corner. Up corner to loose ledge on right. Climb a thin crack to a wide crack and go up past a couple of blockages to abseil tree.

Start: Start on the right side of the gully left of the orange wall and stinking cave at the line left of a major, cruddy corner.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran, 1991

19Trad 40m

1.4. Crystal Palace 33 routes in Crag

All Trad

1.4.1. Tim's Gully Wall 5 routes in Area

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Burning Guns 24Trad 35m
2 * The 38 Special 17Trad 35m
3 Chocoholic and the Fly 18Trad 32m
4 * The Lawnmower Man 22Trad 18m
5 Keep Off the Grass 20Trad 18m

1.4.2. Crystal Cave 6 routes in Area

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Stone Cold Sober 23Trad 45m
2 * Ganges River Blues 23Trad 45m
3 Lime Spiders 20Trad 50m
4 Men of Ambition 22Trad 55m
5 Chuun Chuun Buung Ak 16Trad 45m
6 Moes and Mullets

A pleasant ramble interrupted by one "big" move. Start: 7 m right of CCBA on top of block. Up R slanting line and weakness in middle of wall to gain roof. Once cranked, blast straight up middle of rounded arete. For full value, hug the steep left side of the broad atmospheric nose. Easy ground to bollard anchors.

FA: David Langley, Iain Duggin, Karel Skrivanek, 2004

21Trad 40m

1.4.3. Main Wall 9 routes in Area

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Bedazzled 18Trad 70m
2 *** Rising Sun 22Trad 60m
3 *** Grand Central 21Trad 65m
4 ** White Men Can't Jump 21Trad 70m
5 ** Psychoderelict 21Trad 65m
6 * Goodfellas 19Trad 73m
7 * Blood From a Stone 25Trad 60m
8 Twinge 22Trad 28m
9 * Barrage 20Trad 18m

1.4.4. Hourglass Prow 2 routes in Area

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sand Through the Hourglass 20Trad 18m
2 * Enter the Sandman 19Trad 24m

1.4.5. Banksia Wall 11 routes in Area

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Drool 21Trad 25m
2 Somewhere 19Trad 38m
3 I'll Be Back 19Trad 35m
4 * Challenger 23Trad 30m
5 Swinging Buckets 18Trad 35m
6 Wiggy Pulls lt Off 15Trad 35m
7 Foo Foo's Fourby 18Trad 30m
8 I'm Not Upset 19Trad 68m
9 * Paprika 21Trad 68m
10 * Forgotten lrons 21Trad 70m
11 Flemish Vanilla 18Trad 27m

1.5. Quartz Edge 5 routes in Crag

All Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

A steep crag in a remote setting but less than 100 metres from the car. There are one or two options for hard new routes.

Approach:© (kieranl)

Drive along the 'Victoria Range' Road for 9.4 km, 4.1 km past 'The Fortress' turnoff. Park near the bottom of a long hill. The crag is just west of the road.

GR 179709 1:25000

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Three Hours (project) 28Trad 24m
2 * Prague Spring

A good climb up the best line on the cliff. It's an attractive corner that doesn't quite reach the ground and leads to a roof.

  1. 30m (18) Up the steep wall below and left of the line until able to step right into base of the corner. Up the corner until just below the roof. Traverse left to the arete. Up through the left end of the roof, traverse 3 metres left to avoid dirty rock then up a little to a ledge.

  2. 8m (-) Easily up right.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, 1988

18Trad 38m
3 Stairway To The Moon

Nice but a bit loose. Start 2 metres right of 'Prague Spring'.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Martin Davis, Chris Lawrence., 1994

17Trad 42m
4 On The Amazon

Steep start and finish but no all that great.

Start at undercut corner 20 metres right of 'Prague Spring'.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, 1988

16Trad 40m
5 No Strings Attached

Start 5 metres right of 'On The Amazon'.

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Glenn Tempest, 1993

18Trad 40m

1.6. C.G. Wall 1 route in Crag

All Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

Another isolated outcrop with only the one climb to date.

Approach:© (kieranl)

Just 40 metres uphill from 'Victoria Range' Road after the first hairpin bend north of Mount Thackeray picnic area.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Too Cute to Route

Nice climbing up obvious weakness in the middle of wall closest to road. Move left into first shallow corner at half height.

FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 1993

13Trad 15m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
13 Too Cute to Route Trad 15m 1.6. C.G. Wall
14 Party Animal Trad 20m 1.1. Party Wall
Party Pooper Trad 25m 1.1. Party Wall
At Tienappels Trad 35m 1.3. The Magic Mountain
15 Wiggy Pulls lt Off Trad 35m 1.4.5. Banksia Wall
16 Arrival Trad 40m 1.3. The Magic Mountain
In The Restaurant Trad 75m 1.3. The Magic Mountain
Lothar Trad 35m 1.3. The Magic Mountain
Chuun Chuun Buung Ak Trad 45m 1.4.2. Crystal Cave
On The Amazon Trad 40m 1.5. Quartz Edge
17 Safe Sex Trad 16m 1.1. Party Wall
EataMorgana Trad 40m 1.2. Taj Mahal
Felix The Cat Unknown 35m 1.3. The Magic Mountain
* The 38 Special Trad 35m 1.4.1. Tim's Gully Wall
Stairway To The Moon Trad 42m 1.5. Quartz Edge
18 If It's Not On, Then It's Not On Trad 20m 1.1. Party Wall
Chocoholic and the Fly Trad 32m 1.4.1. Tim's Gully Wall
* Bedazzled Trad 70m 1.4.3. Main Wall
Flemish Vanilla Trad 27m 1.4.5. Banksia Wall
Foo Foo's Fourby Trad 30m 1.4.5. Banksia Wall
Swinging Buckets Trad 35m 1.4.5. Banksia Wall
No Strings Attached Trad 40m 1.5. Quartz Edge
* Prague Spring Trad 38m 1.5. Quartz Edge
19 Looking For A Route Trad 20m 1.1. Party Wall
A Word Too Much Trad 40m 1.3. The Magic Mountain
He Reviewed The Human Species As He Floated In Its Faeces Trad 50m 1.3. The Magic Mountain
* Goodfellas Trad 73m 1.4.3. Main Wall
* Enter the Sandman Trad 24m 1.4.4. Hourglass Prow
I'll Be Back Trad 35m 1.4.5. Banksia Wall
I'm Not Upset Trad 68m 1.4.5. Banksia Wall
Somewhere Trad 38m 1.4.5. Banksia Wall
20 Keep Off the Grass Trad 18m 1.4.1. Tim's Gully Wall
Lime Spiders Trad 50m 1.4.2. Crystal Cave
* Barrage Trad 18m 1.4.3. Main Wall
Sand Through the Hourglass Trad 18m 1.4.4. Hourglass Prow
21 Father Gibney's Gallant Rescue Trad 40m 1.3. The Magic Mountain
** Mental Gymnastics Trad 35m 1.3. The Magic Mountain
Moes and Mullets Trad 40m 1.4.2. Crystal Cave
*** Grand Central Trad 65m 1.4.3. Main Wall
** Psychoderelict Trad 65m 1.4.3. Main Wall
** White Men Can't Jump Trad 70m 1.4.3. Main Wall
* Drool Trad 25m 1.4.5. Banksia Wall
* Forgotten lrons Trad 70m 1.4.5. Banksia Wall
* Paprika Trad 68m 1.4.5. Banksia Wall
22 * The Lawnmower Man Trad 18m 1.4.1. Tim's Gully Wall
Men of Ambition Trad 55m 1.4.2. Crystal Cave
*** Rising Sun Trad 60m 1.4.3. Main Wall
Twinge Trad 28m 1.4.3. Main Wall
23 Consumption Trad 35m 1.3. The Magic Mountain
* Ganges River Blues Trad 45m 1.4.2. Crystal Cave
Stone Cold Sober Trad 45m 1.4.2. Crystal Cave
* Challenger Trad 30m 1.4.5. Banksia Wall
24 Burning Guns Trad 35m 1.4.1. Tim's Gully Wall
25 Satana Trad 35m 1.3. The Magic Mountain
* Blood From a Stone Trad 60m 1.4.3. Main Wall
28 Three Hours (project) Trad 24m 1.5. Quartz Edge