A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Mt Thackeray 58 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Trad
Access Issues: inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

1.1. Party Wall 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
Approach:© (kieranl)

Drive 6.8 km south on 'Victoria' range Road from the Goat Track junction to a hair-pin bend. Descend the gully for about 50 metres the head right (facing out) to find a rock shelf. Follow this shelf to an obvious corner the left side of which is broken by a major chimney.

GR 191733 (Victoria Range 1:25000)

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Party Pooper

The chimney left of the corner.

FA: Dave Gairns, Stan Clusik, 1990

14 Trad 25m
2 If It's Not On, Then It's Not On

Start up the corner for 6 metres then step left into crack-line and follow this.

FA: Gary Wills, Hugh Foxcroft, Peter Megens, 1990

18 Trad 20m
3 Party Animal

Take the corner all the way. Pull out left around the summit block.

FA: B. Doolan, Peter Megens, Julie West, 1990

14 Trad 20m
4 Looking For A Route

Start on wall right of the corner. Up through the bulge to the weakness, then the left crack to the top.

FA: Gary Wills, Peter Megens, 1990

19 Trad 20m
5 Safe Sex

Start as for Looking For a route to the steepening then take the right-leaning crack to the top.

FA: Gary wills, Peter Megens, 1990

17 Trad 16m

1.2. Taj Mahal 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

Next major cliff south of Magic Mountain. Park at the saddle just south of Party wall. Walk south-east through saddle and continue horizontally (?) for 10 minutes to cairn then down descent gully.

Originally called 'Mirage' Wall but there was already one of those.

Approach:© (kieranl)

GR 193729

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 EataMorgana

Major corner 10 metres right of descent gully. Previously named Fatmorgana. Maybe a typo somewhere.

FA: Gordon talbett, James McIntosh, 1994

17 Trad 40m

1.3. The Magic Mountain 11 routes in Crag

Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

This area looks stunning from the 'Victoria' Valley but it's a bit disappointing. Left of the steep gully that splits the crag is one of Gariwerd's loosest, most dangerous faces. This is unclimbed.

Approach:© (kieranl)

Drive 6.6 kilometres south along the 'Victoria' range Road. Park 200 metres north of the 'Party Wall' hairpin, at the foot of a stony rise in the track. Head off left (east) and follow the creek down until able to cut back right (south) below outcrops to the main cliff.

GR 193734 (Victoria Range 1:25000)

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Arrival

The left-facing prominent corner.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Simon Mentz (alt) and Phil Wilkins, 1991

16 Trad 40m
2 Father Gibney's Gallant Rescue

Quite good. Pitch lengths are guesses.

Start: Start below cracks on the left wall of the prominent corner of "Arrival"

  1. 20m (21) Up the face a couple of metres left of the corner to a ledge.

  2. 20m (19) Up a bit, then out right under roof to a really nice crack on arete.

FA: James Falla, Ant (alt) and Jon Muir, 1991

21 Trad 40m 2
3 He Reviewed The Human Species As He Floated In Its Faeces

Start: Start at a distinct off-width corner about 20 metres left of "Arrival"

  1. 40m (19) Up corner, avoiding the use of off-width technique to tree.

  2. 10m (19) Up crack behind tree.

FA: james Falla, Ant (alt) and Jon Muir, 1991

19 Trad 50m 2
4 In The Restaurant

Start: Start about 25-30 metres left of "He Reviewed..." at a good line with a bulging crack start.

  1. 35m (16) Steeply up the line and on past the tree into the corner. After a superb hand-crack, avoid a dirty, closed corner by traversing left. Go up and belay on any of a series of ledges

  2. 30m (-) Move back right and climb the wall, tending right, going just past the left side of an overhang to belay in a large cave. Take care with the rock on this pitch.

  3. 10m (-) Walk ro the right-hand end of the cave and go up through more bulges.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood (alt), 1991

16 Trad 75m 3
5 At Tienappels

The grey corner marking the right-hand side of the wall. Beware of loose blocks.

FA: Unknown, 2000

14 Trad 35m
6 Satana

The line up the face just left of the grey corner of "At Tienappels"

FA: Unknown, possibly Lincoln Shepherd, 1991

25 Trad 35m
7 ** Mental Gymnastics

Great climbing. The right-hand line on the orange wall has a right-facing corner at 2/3 height.

  1. 10m (18) Short, steep wall with difficult protection to terrace. Up 2 metres to ledge.

  2. 25m (21) Up wall to base of corner then corner and crack to horizontal break. Now 4 metres wall (crux) to belay.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Kieran Loughran, 1991

21 Trad 35m 2
8 Consumption

Awkward wall left of 'Mental Gymnastics' to terrace. Left-facing corner then the left-most of the major lines on the orange wall.

FA: Steve Monks, Kieran Loughran, 1992

23 Trad 35m
9 Lothar

Wideish line marking left side of orange wall.

FA: Erik Lock, Nick Neagle, 1992

16 Trad 35m
10 Felix The Cat

Up wall just left of wideish line.

FA: Nick Neagle, Erik Lock, 1992

17 Unknown 35m
11 A Word Too Much

Sustained wall to base of left-facing corner. Up corner to loose ledge on right. Climb a thin crack to a wide crack and go up past a couple of blockages to abseil tree.

Start: Start on the right side of the gully left of the orange wall and stinking cave at the line left of a major, cruddy corner.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran, 1991

19 Trad 40m

1.4. Crystal Palace 35 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad

1.4.1. Tim's Gully Wall 5 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Burning Guns 24 Trad 35m
2 * The 38 Special 17 Trad 35m
3 Chocoholic and the Fly 18 Trad 32m
4 * The Lawnmower Man 22 Trad 18m
5 Keep Off the Grass 20 Trad 18m

1.4.2. Crystal Cave 6 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Stone Cold Sober 23 Trad 45m
2 * Ganges River Blues 23 Trad 45m
3 Lime Spiders 20 Trad 50m
4 Men of Ambition 22 Trad 55m
5 Chuun Chuun Buung Ak 16 Trad 45m
6 Moes and Mullets

A pleasant ramble interrupted by one "big" move. Start: 7 m right of CCBA on top of block. Up R slanting line and weakness in middle of wall to gain roof. Once cranked, blast straight up middle of rounded arete. For full value, hug the steep left side of the broad atmospheric nose. Easy ground to bollard anchors.

FA: David Langley, Iain Duggin, Karel Skrivanek, 2004

21 Trad 40m

1.4.3. Main Wall 9 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Bedazzled 18 Trad 70m
2 *** Rising Sun 22 Trad 60m
3 *** Grand Central 21 Trad 65m
4 ** White Men Can't Jump 21 Trad 70m
5 ** Psychoderelict 21 Trad 65m
6 * Goodfellas 19 Trad 73m
7 * Blood From a Stone 25 Trad 60m
8 Twinge 22 Trad 28m
9 * Barrage 20 Trad 18m

1.4.4. Hourglass Prow 2 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sand Through the Hourglass 20 Trad 18m
2 * Enter the Sandman 19 Trad 24m

1.4.5. Banksia Wall 11 routes in Area

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Drool 21 Trad 25m
2 Somewhere 19 Trad 38m
3 I'll Be Back 19 Trad 35m
4 * Challenger 23 Trad 30m
5 Swinging Buckets 18 Trad 35m
6 Wiggy Pulls lt Off 15 Trad 35m
7 Foo Foo's Fourby 18 Trad 30m
8 I'm Not Upset 19 Trad 68m
9 * Paprika 21 Trad 68m
10 * Forgotten lrons 21 Trad 70m
11 Flemish Vanilla 18 Trad 27m

1.4.6. The Servant's Quarters 2 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Description:

A large, broken cliff.

Approach:

Keep walking past Banksia Wall, as soon as you turn the corner, there it is.

Descent Notes:

There is a fixed rope in the middle of the wall, scramble in from the two established routes from the left, double 60m ropes get you to the ledge from where the routes start. Walk off possible down the left gully.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Glenn, the happiest dishpig in Straya

There are two obvious corner cracks leading from the ledge that is accessed from the gully, this is the left-hand one.

  1. 20m (17). Start 5 metres from the left-hand end of the ledge. Tricky start (crux) to gain corner crack which is followed to exit left and belay on ledge.

  2. 30m (17). Tricky move through roof above, up juggy face to short black corner then up to big grassy ledge. To descend scramble up and rightwards then step down to ledge and find fixed knotted rope in deep crack (2x60m ropes to ledge.)

FA: RossTaylor,Simon Madden,(alt), 2015

17 Trad 50m 2
2 Adam, the groom of the stool

There are two obvious corner cracks leading from the ledge, this is the right-hand one.

  1. 20m (15). Up corner then step left onto juggy face, up to rooflet step right onto airy plate and continue up to ledge belay.

  2. 30m (18). Trend left up juggy face towards the flake in the roof above. At roof beware loose blocks instead climb through roof a metre right from obvious flake then blast up juggy wall to ledge. Scramble right to ledge with knotted rope in deep crack (2x60m rope rap to ledge).

FA: Simon Madden,Ross Taylor,(alt), 2015

18 Trad 50m 2

1.5. Quartz Edge 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

A steep crag in a remote setting but less than 100 metres from the car. There are one or two options for hard new routes.

Approach:© (kieranl)

Drive along the 'Victoria Range' Road for 9.4 km, 4.1 km past 'The Fortress' turnoff. Park near the bottom of a long hill. The crag is just west of the road.

GR 179709 1:25000

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Three Hours (project) 28 Trad 24m
2 * Prague Spring

A good climb up the best line on the cliff. It's an attractive corner that doesn't quite reach the ground and leads to a roof.

  1. 30m (18) Up the steep wall below and left of the line until able to step right into base of the corner. Up the corner until just below the roof. Traverse left to the arete. Up through the left end of the roof, traverse 3 metres left to avoid dirty rock then up a little to a ledge.

  2. 8m (-) Easily up right.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, 1988

18 Trad 38m 2
3 Stairway To The Moon

Nice but a bit loose. Start 2 metres right of 'Prague Spring'.

FA: Geoff Butcher, Martin Davis, Chris Lawrence., 1994

17 Trad 42m
4 On The Amazon

Steep start and finish but no all that great.

Start at undercut corner 20 metres right of 'Prague Spring'.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, 1988

16 Trad 40m
5 No Strings Attached

Start 5 metres right of 'On The Amazon'.

FA: Stephen Hamilton, Glenn Tempest, 1993

18 Trad 40m

1.6. C.G. Wall 1 route in Crag

Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (kieranl)

Another isolated outcrop with only the one climb to date.

Approach:© (kieranl)

Just 40 metres uphill from 'Victoria Range' Road after the first hairpin bend north of Mount Thackeray picnic area.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Too Cute to Route

Nice climbing up obvious weakness in the middle of wall closest to road. Move left into first shallow corner at half height.

FA: Michael Hampton, Geoff Butcher, 1993

13 Trad 15m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
13 Too Cute to Route Trad 15m 1.6. C.G. Wall
14 Party Animal Trad 20m 1.1. Party Wall
Party Pooper Trad 25m 1.1. Party Wall
At Tienappels Trad 35m 1.3. The Magic Mountain
15 Wiggy Pulls lt Off Trad 35m 1.4.5. Banksia Wall
16 Arrival Trad 40m 1.3. The Magic Mountain
In The Restaurant Trad 75m 3 1.3. The Magic Mountain
Lothar Trad 35m 1.3. The Magic Mountain
Chuun Chuun Buung Ak Trad 45m 1.4.2. Crystal Cave
On The Amazon Trad 40m 1.5. Quartz Edge
17 Safe Sex Trad 16m 1.1. Party Wall
EataMorgana Trad 40m 1.2. Taj Mahal
Felix The Cat Unknown 35m 1.3. The Magic Mountain
* The 38 Special Trad 35m 1.4.1. Tim's Gully Wall
Glenn, the happiest dishpig in Straya Trad 50m 2 1.4.6. The Servant's Quarters
Stairway To The Moon Trad 42m 1.5. Quartz Edge
18 If It's Not On, Then It's Not On Trad 20m 1.1. Party Wall
Chocoholic and the Fly Trad 32m 1.4.1. Tim's Gully Wall
* Bedazzled Trad 70m 1.4.3. Main Wall
Flemish Vanilla Trad 27m 1.4.5. Banksia Wall
Foo Foo's Fourby Trad 30m 1.4.5. Banksia Wall
Swinging Buckets Trad 35m 1.4.5. Banksia Wall
Adam, the groom of the stool Trad 50m 2 1.4.6. The Servant's Quarters
No Strings Attached Trad 40m 1.5. Quartz Edge
* Prague Spring Trad 38m 2 1.5. Quartz Edge
19 Looking For A Route Trad 20m 1.1. Party Wall
A Word Too Much Trad 40m 1.3. The Magic Mountain
He Reviewed The Human Species As He Floated In Its Faeces Trad 50m 2 1.3. The Magic Mountain
* Goodfellas Trad 73m 1.4.3. Main Wall
* Enter the Sandman Trad 24m 1.4.4. Hourglass Prow
I'll Be Back Trad 35m 1.4.5. Banksia Wall
I'm Not Upset Trad 68m 1.4.5. Banksia Wall
Somewhere Trad 38m 1.4.5. Banksia Wall
20 Keep Off the Grass Trad 18m 1.4.1. Tim's Gully Wall
Lime Spiders Trad 50m 1.4.2. Crystal Cave
* Barrage Trad 18m 1.4.3. Main Wall
Sand Through the Hourglass Trad 18m 1.4.4. Hourglass Prow
21 Father Gibney's Gallant Rescue Trad 40m 2 1.3. The Magic Mountain
** Mental Gymnastics Trad 35m 2 1.3. The Magic Mountain
Moes and Mullets Trad 40m 1.4.2. Crystal Cave
*** Grand Central Trad 65m 1.4.3. Main Wall
** Psychoderelict Trad 65m 1.4.3. Main Wall
** White Men Can't Jump Trad 70m 1.4.3. Main Wall
* Drool Trad 25m 1.4.5. Banksia Wall
* Forgotten lrons Trad 70m 1.4.5. Banksia Wall
* Paprika Trad 68m 1.4.5. Banksia Wall
22 * The Lawnmower Man Trad 18m 1.4.1. Tim's Gully Wall
Men of Ambition Trad 55m 1.4.2. Crystal Cave
*** Rising Sun Trad 60m 1.4.3. Main Wall
Twinge Trad 28m 1.4.3. Main Wall
23 Consumption Trad 35m 1.3. The Magic Mountain
* Ganges River Blues Trad 45m 1.4.2. Crystal Cave
Stone Cold Sober Trad 45m 1.4.2. Crystal Cave
* Challenger Trad 30m 1.4.5. Banksia Wall
24 Burning Guns Trad 35m 1.4.1. Tim's Gully Wall
25 Satana Trad 35m 1.3. The Magic Mountain
* Blood From a Stone Trad 60m 1.4.3. Main Wall
28 Three Hours (project) Trad 24m 1.5. Quartz Edge