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Description

A reasonably extensive cliff but broken in parts by terraces and rotten overhangs. It provides a few pleasant middle grade routes and has easy access. Wear a helmet as the rock is fairly crumbly in places.

© (willmonks)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.

You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/_data/assets/pdffile/0003/621246/Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf

If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.

Approach

From the Roses Gap/Mt Zero Rd, drive 1km NW along the Coppermine Track. The cliff is directly above. The walk is about 10 minutes. Routes described from Right to Left.

© (willmonks)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Pleasant.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Jeremy Maddox., 2003

The left-hand crack. A bit fierce.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Jeremy Maddox, 2003

Mossy crack and short corner to roof, step left, up to next roof, step left (suspect rock) and up to ledge. Walk off right.

Start: 40m left of 'Bad Penny' there is a break in the overhangs with 2 corner lines about 6m apart. The right one. Cairned.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Chris Armstrong, 2003

Gains the corner 6m left of Copralites.

  1. 20m (14) Up easy wall to large ledge then steeply into corner, up this, move onto right wall towards the top and exit to ledge on right.

  2. 10m (-) Up to roof, traverse 4m right and pull through break.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Chris Armstrong, 2003

Start: About 40m left of 'Ok Tedi' locate a short clean-cut right facing corner about 15m up the cliff. Start in the bushy chimney/gully below this. Cairned.

  1. 25m (14) Head out right to avoid the vegetation then back left to the foot of the corner, good climbing up this to large ledge.

  2. 10m (14) Up slab to overhang, mantle excitingly through this 2m left of the dead tree.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Jeremy Maddox, 2003

Climb the juggy crack line through a number of bulges, then the nice wall and easy angled ground above.

Start: 15-20m left of 'Bent Copper' (before you get to the big chimney line).

FA: Philip Armstrong & Jeremy Maddox, 2003

Start: The big crack/chimney line at the left-hand end of the main cliff, just left of 'Amungme'.

  1. 20m (16) Good holds and runners on the right wall. Belay at the big chockstone.

  2. 10m (16) (Crux) Traverse left across the wall below the roof to the arete. Step left and up.

FA: Jeremy Maddox & Philip Armstrong. (alt), 2003

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