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Description

A reasonably extensive cliff but broken in parts by terraces and rotten overhangs. It provides a few pleasant middle grade routes and has easy access. Wear a helmet as the rock is fairly crumbly in places.

© (willmonks)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This entire area is currently closed due to ongoing fire activity. Fires started on 15/1/2014 and swept the area. All access is prohibited.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

Approach

From the Roses Gap/Mt Zero Rd, drive 1km NW along the Coppermine Track. The cliff is directly above. The walk is about 10 minutes. Routes described from Right to Left.

© (willmonks)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
15 Small Change Trad 10m

Pleasant.

FA: Philip Armstrong, Jeremy Maddox., 2003

2
18 Bad Penny Trad 10m

The left-hand crack. A bit fierce.

FA: Philip Armstrong, Jeremy Maddox, 2003

3
13 Coprolites Trad 20m

Mossy crack and short corner to roof, step left, up to next roof, step left (suspect rock) and up to ledge. Walk off right.

Start: 40m left of 'Bad Penny' there is a break in the overhangs with 2 corner lines about 6m apart. The right one. Cairned.

FA: Philip Armstrong, Chris Armstrong, 2003

4
14 Ok Tedi Trad 30m

Gains the corner 6m left of Copralites.

  1. 20m (14) Up easy wall to large ledge then steeply into corner, up this, move onto right wall towards the top and exit to ledge on right.

  2. 10m (-) Up to roof, traverse 4m right and pull through break.

FA: Philip Armstrong, Chris Armstrong, 2003

5
14 Bent Copper Trad 35m

Start: About 40m left of 'Ok Tedi' locate a short clean-cut right facing corner about 15m up the cliff. Start in the bushy chimney/gully below this. Cairned.

  1. 25m (14) Head out right to avoid the vegetation then back left to the foot of the corner, good climbing up this to large ledge.

  2. 10m (14) Up slab to overhang, mantle excitingly through this 2m left of the dead tree.

FA: Philip Armstrong, Jeremy Maddox, 2003

6
10 Amungme Trad 35m

Climb the juggy crack line through a number of bulges, then the nice wall and easy angled ground above.

Start: 15-20m left of 'Bent Copper' (before you get to the big chimney line).

FA: Philip Armstrong, Jeremy Maddox, 2003

7
16 Bronze Age Trad 30m

Start: The big crack/chimney line at the left-hand end of the main cliff, just left of 'Amungme'.

  1. 20m (16) Good holds and runners on the right wall. Belay at the big chockstone.

  2. 10m (16) (Crux) Traverse left across the wall below the roof to the arete. Step left and up.

FA: Jeremy Maddox, Philip Armstrong. (alt), 2003