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Table of contents

1. Flat Rock 90 routes in Cliff

Trad, Boulder and Sport

Long/Lat: 142.377744, -36.894022

Access Issues: inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 17 September 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

In January 2014 a large bushfire swept through the Northern Grampians causing widespread damage to visitor sites, roads and walking tracks. Many popular rockclimbing and bouldering sites were also impacted including Hollow Mountain, Summerday Valley and Mt Stapylton.

The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Recently, Parks Victoria, volunteers and contractors completed recovery projects within rock climbing areas to reinstate damaged walking trails, realign rock climbing access and replace directional signage.

As of Saturday 20th September access will once again be available to rock climbing and bouldering areas within the Stapylton Amphitheatre in addition to those already available in the Flat Rock area. The access track from Flat Rock has been realigned into Grey and Green Walls and to Taipan wall. Please follow these new alignments and refrain from walking off track.

Open Rock Climbing and Bouldering Areas in the Northern Grampians:

  • Central Buttress
  • Grey & Green Walls
  • Taipan Wall (Upper and Lower)
  • Spurt Wall
  • Epsilon Wall
  • Trackside Bouldering area
  • Snakepit
  • Wildsides
  • Spurt and Afterglow

Closures remain in place at all other Northern Grampians Climbing and Bouldering sites for the time being, including Summerday Valley, Andersons, The kindergarten, Van Diemens Land and Cut Lunch Walls. Stapylton Campground also remains closed. Plantation Campground is the closest, open campground.

Parks Victoria will continue to assess damage and undertake recovery works over the coming months. Updates will be posted as re-openings occur. Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on anyone found in any closed, fire affected areas.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parks.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Flat Rock
  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:
  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

1.1. The Play Pen 5 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.376640, -36.892573

Description:© (willmonks)

Supposedly an area for novices to top-rope and abseil... but they will be FAR better off going to Summer Day Valley, 'Bellerophon Wall' or Arapiles! It is very short, has little atmosphere and is a haven for mosquitoes. It is of no interest to recreational climbers, except perhaps for an interesting scramble up the full length of the gully if needing to fill time. No descriptions will be reproduced here.

The routes mentioned go from left to right and were done by Aidan Banfield and friends in the eighties.

The Teddy Bear 6m 1

The Wise Old Rag Doll 6m 2

Sand Pits And 'Gravel Rash' 6m 3

The Rattle 7m 3

'The Play Pen' Play Mate 7m 3

The Dolls Play With Guns 8m 4

Approach:© (willmonks)

Walk into the large gully at the back of the 'Mount Zero' Picnic Area to the sulphurous dam that thankfully is no longer used for water supply. This is about 30m to the R of the Flat Rock walking trail. The "cliff" is on the left as you look upstream. The "climbing" area starts 2 metres left of the dam and extends upstream. Scramble anywhere in this area.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Teddy Bear 1Trad 6m
2 The Wise Old Rag Doll 2Trad 6m
3 Sand Pits And Gravel Rash 3Trad 8m
4 The Play Pen Play Mate 3Trad 7m
5 The Dolls Play With Guns 4Trad 8m

1.2. West Flank 10 routes in Cliff

Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 142.375716, -36.893959

Description:© (willmonks)

Most of the following has been copied directly from Kieran Loughran's excellent Amphitheatre guide - thanks!

The crag faces west and gets sun in the afternoon. Climbs are described from left to right.

Approach:© (willmonks)

It's about 150m south of the Flat Rock / Mt Zero carpark and picnic area, and only about 60m from the road heading south (i.e the road going towards Pohlner's Track and Stapylton campground). Park on the side of that road if you're really lazy. The left side of the wall is obvious: impressive yellow overhanging choss. All of the existing climbs are right of this overhanging section and are best approached by walking straight in from the dirt road (which is obvious from the photo below).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Project Matt Brooks

The ring bolted sport route up the main turret in the middle of the massive scooped red wall. Very hard.

Set by Matt Brooks, 2013

Sport 30m
2 ** L'Essence

Start at The first `weakness' R of the overhanging section. Hard move over over hang to shallow left facing corner, follw this with increasing difficulty to where it ends. Traverse hard left to a tricky mantle and good face climbing up wall above. This originally had 1 bolt!

FA: Dave Fearnley, 1986

25Sport 30m, 7
3 * Nuclear Wasteland

The sport version of Yellow Cake. Start as for Yellow Cake then go slightly L and up the high wall. Note permission was given by FA to make the other routes on this wall safer and bolt them.

FA: Marek Brock-Tasler, Glen norell, Ben Alslop, Matt Brooks, 2013

20Sport 25m, 7
4 Yellow Cake

Wander up the mossy wall, stepping R above the roof described, then back L to a juggy overhang.

Start: Start about 15m R of L'Essence, just L of a small, square-cut roof and corner close to the ground.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Chris Peisker, 1986

20Trad 30m
5 ** Melting Moments

Delicately up orange wall to first overhang. Bouldery moves over overhang, bolt, up and R to second overhang. Brushed wall to top.

Start: Start 7m R of 'Yellow Cake'.

FA: Shepherd, Fearnley, 1986

24Trad 30m
6 * Unraveling Fukishima

A bit weird with a couple of tricky moves, especially if you're short. Starts 5m left of landmark flake, 2m right of high RB. Traverse in then mantle past shallow pockets, up flake then super reachy traverse right to cross Cooking in Chernobyl. Finish up pumpy headwall. 7 RBs + fixed sling.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

23Sport 18m, 7
7 * Cooking In Chernobyl

The L-facing flake that is a major feature of this wall.

Start: Start 25m R of 'Melting Moments'.

FA: Shepherd, Chris Peisker, 1986

22Trad 30m
8 Blues Maker

Corner, then L wall, behind chockstone and either bridge or climb face.

Start: Line R of 'Cooking In Chernobyl'.

FA: Andrew Thomson, Keith Lockwood, 1972

13Trad 21m
9 In The Groove

The largest and smallest cams will be handy for the exciting finish.

Start: Start just R of 'Blues Maker'.

FA: Alan McCulloch, Norm Booth, Ed Neve, 1992

18Trad 20m
10 Blues Breaker

The corner.

Start: Line 18m R of 'Blues Maker'.

FA: Lockwood, Thomson, 1972

12Trad 20m

1.3. Bellerophon Wall 32 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.379002, -36.892530

Description:© (nmonteith)

The pickings on this wall are quite respectable. There are a few pumpy things down the left end, some reasonable easier climbs in the middle of the crag and a collection of good, thin face routes on the right wall of 'Bellerophon'. In the past this cliff was known as Flat Rock East Flank. There are abseil anchors/DBBs in place above Bellerophon and Thapsus.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

It is a long, low cliff that runs pretty much parallel to the walking track up Flat Rock. Start up Flat Rock and cut across left to the cliff. A short orange corner at the left end of the cliff called, amazingly enough, 'The Short Orange Corner' and a major corner further right, 'Bellerophon', are good landmarks.

The rock mostly faces west and is in shade to early afternoon but the right wall of 'Bellerophon' faces north and is in sun much earlier. It's a terrible place in late summer when the stored heat of Flat Rock radiates onto it. Descend by double rap rings above 'Bellerophon' or a long walk down via an easy scramble just left of the short orange corner at the far left end of the cliff. A DBB/Abseil anchor services the area around Voyage of Discovery. The climbs are described from left to right.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Dave's Pen-dulum

Somewhat novel. Move up to L end of horizontal crack. Follow line R until it runs out, continue to corner and step down. Now reverse it or, perhaps, don't bother to start.

FA: David Lovell, Maryborough Venturers sometime., 2000

15Trad 20m
2 The Short Orange Corner

Don't blink. You're probably sick of this climb by the time you've read to here. The corner stands out from the walking track but is not very attractive on close acquaintance. Start by a tree below and L of the short orange corner at the L end of the cliff. Diagonally R to corner, up corner a bit. Step R around arete and finish steeply.

FA: Details unknown., 2000

12Trad 20m
3 * Optimal Arousal

Steep. Boring adjective but exciting climbing.

Start: Start below overhanging wall a few m R of 'The Short Orange Corner'.

FA: Peter Martin, Ed Neve, 1987

23Mixed 20m, 1
4 Incongruity

Looks ridiculously hard for the grade.

FA: Peter Martin, Jarod McCulloch, Simon Mentz, 1988

20Mixed 20m, 1
5 Perceived Freedom

Another year, another climb. Start 20m R of 'Optimal Arousal' opposite cave/boulder. 'Steep' wall, hand traverse L then up easy crack.

FA: Peter Martin, 1989

22Trad 18m
6 Sputnik

Up crack 2m left of 'Sky Rocket', step left and follow vague groove to top.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran, Tim Lockwood, Glen Jones, 1999

14Trad 15m
7 * Sky Rocket

Unobtrusive but quite pleasant. Crack 10m R of 'Perceived Freedom'. Approach from the R and walk L to end of ledge. Up with a tricky start and thin midsection.

FA: James McIntosh, Melanie Taws, 1987

17Trad 15m
8 * A Day In The Life Of Ethel The Aardvark

Steep and enjoyable enough climbing through juggy bulges. Crack 5m R of 'Sky Rocket'.

FA: Mcintosh, Taws, 1987

14Trad 15m
9 Apollo 13

Bolt left of Pegleg

FA: noddy

18Mixed 15m, 1
10 Pigpen

Looks filthy but the climbing is much better than it appears. Needs a more direct finish.

Start: Just left of 'Pegleg' below the dirty groove

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, 2000

14Trad 20m
11 * Pegleg

Very nice. Thin crack with an old piton 5m L of 'Bellerophon' and 10m R of Aditloeta. Awkward bulging top is hard to protect. May have been top-roped or aided ages ago.

FA: Allan Hope, 1986

16Trad 19m
12 ** Robots Don't Day Dream

Reachy climbing up face between 'Bellerophon' and 'Pegleg'. Be careful with pro.

FA: Aidan Banfield, 1989

20Trad 20m
13 * Bellerophon

Something of an easy classic. The major corner to the ledge and rap rings.

FA: Charles Gunst, Richard Rodd, Margaret Brookes, 1974

8Trad 20m
14 Be My Guest 18Trad 22m
15 Matthew Flinders

Quite serious for the grade. Not well protected at first, potential groundfall from 7m. Take large hexes or cams. Start 2m R of 'Bellerophon'. Up tending L a tad to a sling at horizontal break. Up and R to nut, then up and leftish to finish just R of corner, taking care with large boulder.

FA: Unknown, 2000

15Trad 19m
16 * Vicious Fungus

Good face-climbing with some subtle placements. Cams to #3½.

Start: Thin cracks 2m R of 'Matthew Flinders', 2m L of prominent black water streak.

FA: Aidan Banfield, Matthew Brooks, 1990

20Trad 20m
17 Streaks Ahead

Sustained face climbing on turtle shell rock.

Start: Middle of face R of 'Bellerophon', 2m R of 'Vicious Fungus', on left edge of black streak. Take small cams and wires.

FA: Graeme Smith, Gunther Zippel, 1990

20Trad 20m
18 Tripp'n 21Trad 20m
19 * Hallucinations

Start: Black water streak 8m R of 'Bellerophon', 2m R of 'Streaks Ahead'.

FA: Brooks, Banfield, 1992

20Mixed 20m, 1
20 Fungal Fantasies

Looks good. 3m R of black water streak is a slight groove. Up L edge of groove.

FA: Brooks, Jeff Manton, Banfield, 1990

14Trad 20m
21 * Magic Mushroom

Good fun and surprisingly exposed. Take 5 or 6 slings. Start just R of 'Fungal Fantasies'. Head up slightly R to climb the "mushrooms" on the wall just L of the scoop, move a bit L to finish.

FA: Mark Savage, Banfield, 1989

9Trad 20m
22 Explorer's Rock

3m L of Explorer’s Groove. Up to scoop then up R on large slightly suspect holds to large ledge. Either continue on up or head R to the DBB above Pharsalus.

FA: Jerry Maddox, Philip Armstrong, 2012

10Trad 19m
23 Explorer's Groove

Steep, easy climbing with unexpected jugs and gear. Crack 15m R of the scooped arete.

FA: Uknown, 2000

12Trad 19m
24 * Pharsalus

Surprisingly good climbing for this section of the wall. 5m R of Explorer’s Groove, the second seam R of EG. Up to and up seam/crack to ledge, slightly L and up head wall via FH to ledge. DBB and abseil.

FA: Philip Armstrong, Peter Cody, 2012

17Mixed 18m, 1
25 Thapsus

A good companion to Pharsalus. 1.5m R of Pharsalus. Up to and up crack to ledge, then up steep groove to FH. Up and R past this to a 2nd FH. Up steeply to DBB.

FA: Philip Armstrong, Peter Cody, 2012

15Mixed 18m, 2
26 Scunthorpe United

4m R of Thapsus and 1.5m L of the big deep crack of Voyage of Discovery. Up crack finishing up arête on poor rock and protection. DBB

FA: Philip Armstrong, Jerry Maddox, 2012

14Trad 18m
27 Voyage Of Discovery

Crack 10m R of Explorer's Groove.

FA: Unknown, 2000

13Trad 19m
28 No Scruples

We intended to climb directly up the seam past the bolt but couldn’t do it, hopefully someone else will. A bit artificial as it stands as the more you keep using holds to the R the easier it is. Crack 2m L of Rungwalk to ledge. A seam continues up past a ring bolt. Step R and use side pulls on the arête to get started and move up to knob on next ledge [clip ring bolt before these moves]. Continue up to large ledge. Walk L from here to DBB or finish up Rungwalk DF

FA: Philip Armstrong, Peter Cody, 2012

18Mixed 25m, 1
29 Rungwalk

L of two lines 10m R of 'Voyage Of Discovery'. Up the narrow groove to an open smooth groove.

FA: Barry Windridge, Ian Thorn, Gordon Bedford, 2000

11Trad 21m
30 Rungwalk DF

Rungwalk finishes at a ledge below a headwall. Continue up the seam over the bulge passing a ringbolt.

FA: Peter Cody, Philip Armstrong, 2012

16Mixed 8m, 1
31 Cesspool

Sounds gorgeous. Easy line 6m R of 'Rungwalk'.

FA: Bedford, Windridge, Thorn., 2000

4Trad 19m
32 P Of P

I can see them queuing for this. Cracks 9m R of 'Cesspool', 3m L of blocks.

FA: Bedford, Windridge, Thorn., 2000

7Trad 20m

1.4. Epsilon Wall 23 routes in Cliff

Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 142.380783, -36.893857

Description:© (nmonteith)

This shady wall is on the left as you reach the top of Flat Rock. It has a few good examples of both trad, sport and mixed climbing as well as some very serious climbs at a spread of grades. The shockingly wide corner crack is 'Epsilon Plus'. The wall left of 'Epsilon Plus' offers good thin face climbs and some cracks of less distinction. Right of 'Epsilon Plus' is the frightening arete of 'New Imperative' and several attractive corners.

Up right from these climbs is the 'Skippy' Terrace, which has a few more good routes and is a good place on a warm day.

Approach:© (nmonteith)

The cliff faces SSE and is in complete shade for much of the year. It gets early morning sun in summer and often catches breezes from the top of Flat Rock. This can be a pleasant spot on a warm day but it is a miserable place in winter.

For the first 9 routes, please do NOT walk directly up from the walking track to the base of 'Epsilon Plus'. The hillside here is steep and sandy and erodes easily. Instead please approach these climbs from well to the left, traversing in across slabby ledges from Flat Rock, as shown by the red lines in some of the topos below.

For the first 7 routes, descend via rap chain (18m) directly above Iron In The Soul. The 'Benn Gunn' area is served by a double ring bolt rap anchor above 'Crossfire' (22m). There's also a shitty descent down an awkward scramble past old graffiti at the left end (50m left of Mistaken Identity).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Buried Standing Up

Obvious line but doesn't appeal. Pro is a bit awkward to place but good. Start 5m L of 'Mistaken Identity'. Up to and through the break in the overhang and continue.

FA: Brendan Abernathy, Andy Reynolds, 1998

21Trad 12m
2 * Mistaken Identity

A good wall leads to a corner with a rounded finish and fiddly pro. The second hanging corner left of 'Epsilon Plus'. Wall into corner. Corner with dodgy protection (2 each of #3 & #4 RPs for final moves, twist the RPs if you can).

FA: Kieran Loughran & Bill Andrews, 1985

20 RTrad 15m
3 The Visiting Bloke

Dirty, with soft rock and sparse protection. The first hanging corner left of 'Epsilon Plus', 10m right of 'Mistaken Identity'. Easily up to corner then carefully up this to finish.

FA: Peter Martin, Simon Priest & Andrew Brookes, 1989

20 RTrad 20m
4 * Iron In the Soul

Beautiful thin face two metres right of 'The Visiting Bloke'. 4 FHs - the addition of a recent retrobolt has tamed the once dubiously protected start. Rap chain for descent.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman & Malcolm Matheson, 1991

21Sport 15m, 4
5 * Decadant Bolting

Death on a stick! It's a shame this route is ruined by macho bullshit runouts; if the 2 bolts were replaced, and another was added between them, it would actually be worthwhile. If you really want to prove you're a hero, don't whip out the drill in the first place!

Start: Start two metres left of 'Identity Crisis', four metres right of Iron In The Soul.

FA: Richard Smith & Kieran Loughran, 1991

22 XMixed 15m, 2
6 Identity Crisis

Who am I? What's my purpose in life? What am I doing here? Serious climbing with poor protection and dirt. The distinctive twin seams up the centre of the face, 10m left of 'Epsilon Plus'.

FA: Peter Martin & Chris Cope, 1989

21 RTrad 15m
7 * Full Face Value

Good thin face with reachy crux at first bolt. Climb 'Identity Crisis' to first ledge. Right past FH, up and right, two BRs, and finish up right around bulge and up onto slab. Belay off trad in horizontal.

FA: Rob Nabben & Andrew Stevens, 1991

22Mixed 15m, 3
8 Epsilon Plus

A complete body workout. Enjoy! This is one of the first recorded redpoints in 'Victoria'. Guild had previously practised the climb on top-rope. Heaven knows why he returned to lead it.

Start: The obvious, extremely wide left-facing corner-crack that splits the centre of the crag.

FA: Ian Guild & Chris Dewhirst, 1966

15 RTrad 21m
9 New Imperative

It's imperative that you don't fall (E5, 6a?)! Still, the ethic of this route is vastly superior to the partly bolted contrived boldness of Death on a Stick or 'Diazepam' (until it got retroed).

Start: Start 5m R of 'Epsilon Plus'.

FA: Jarod McCulloch, Peter Martin & Richard Bugg, 1989

23 XTrad 20m
10 * Benn Gunn

The initial corner is excellent but the second half of the climb is not so good. Beware of loose blocks at the top of the main corner. Even the obvious flake-roof should be treated with respect.

Start: The attractive corner 15m R of 'Epsilon Plus'.

FA: FA Andrew Thomson, David Mudie, 1970

FFA: Glenn Tempest, Kevin Lindorff, 1977

20Trad 40m
11 Ordinary Bolted Arete

Big shiny ringbolts up short arete left of 'Crossfire'. Only has about 4m of truly indepedent climbing.

FA: Christoph & Simon Wheeler, 2003

23Trad 18m
12 ** Crossfire

A lovely orange corner leads to an exciting traverse. Slightly marred by a scrappy approach and finish.

Start: Start below orange corner R of 'Benn Gunn'.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Glen Tempest, 1977

18Trad 35m
13 * Schooner

A nice crack line which needs a bit more traffic to stay clean. While not as technically hard as 'Crossfire' the rock and protection is not as good and it makes for a hard lead.

Start: Start up 'Crossfire' to first ledge.

FA: Keith Egerton & Dave McLean, 1977

16Trad 30m
14 Skip Transit Gloria

Steeper than it looks. Add some slings to a rack of small-medium wires and medium cams.

Start: Start a few metres L of Let X=X.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2007

17Mixed 13m, 2
15 * Let X=X

Pretty good. Sharp corner leading to roof on L side of terrace. Undercut start to corner, bridge past bracken to roof. Traverse L, peg (?loose), to large ledge. Rap.

FA: Kieran Loughran, 1989

21Trad 20m
16 * Speaking French

The right wall and arete of Let X=X is not too hard but has it moments, particularly the finish which is sensational. The start of Let X=X provides the crux and requires trad gear. So a large rack doesn't have to be carried here is the trad gear used in order of use: #0.75 (green) Camalot, #0.4 (grey) Camalot, #0.5 (purple) Camalot, #3 (blue) Camalot, #0.75 (green) Camalot (extend with sling).

Start: Start as for Let X=X

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2008

20Mixed 15m, 4
17 * Walking and Falling

Lots of interest in this climb. A long bouldering traverse just off the ground leads to a cruxy move guarding great climbing up an orange streak. It is possible to place small cams on the traversing start but they're more trouble than they're worth as you're so close to the ground - just stick clip the first bolt if you're concerned.

Start: Start about 8 metres right of the Let X=X corner and just left of the boulder on the right side of the wall.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Norm Booth, 2007

23Sport 20m, 6
18 * Riding and Climbing

Good thin face. First bolt is quite high but it's a good landing and shouldn't require a stick-clip.

FA: Steve Chapman, Kevin Lindorff, Rob Booth, 2010

24Sport 20m, 6
19 Hop Skip and Thump

Trad route with a sting in the tail. Take slings, wires and cams to #3 Friend (gold Camalot). Jugs up the right side of the wall then traverses to the central weakness. Start just right of 'Walking and Falling' being careful not to disturb the bones behind you. Climb up onto the boulder sitting at the base of the wall. Climb steep but easy rock until able to traverse left along the break to below the central seam on the wall. Climb the seam past a FH just below the top to rap anchor. Gear Beta: Crucial gear for the hard move below the final bolt is gkijv tqem (two letter shift alphabetic code- don't decode if you want the full onsight experience). When rapping be careful to keep the rope out of a thin crack where it will jam badly.

FA: Norm Booth, Kieran Loughran, 2007

22Mixed 20m, 1
20 Skippy Takes a Shortcut

Interesting climbing on steep rock that appears fragile but holds up quite well. This supersedes a weak previous route "An Imaginary Life". Take wires, slings and cams to 2.5 Friend (Red Camalot). The current descent is to scramble around to the rap anchor for "Hop Skip and Thump" but it really needs its own rap anchor. Start about 15m R of Let X=X on the R side of a boulder at the foot of the chimney-gully, being careful not to step on Skippy's bones. Bridge between boulder and face and pull onto face (FH) and up shallow crack in face to overhang. Directly through overhang and up face (2FH) and on to top. Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman climbed the original route in March 1992. Loughran and Norm Booth did the direct version November 2007.

FA: Keiran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1992

15Mixed 15m, 3
21 Spare Ribs

Takes rib/arete about 4 metres right of 'Skippy' Takes A 'Short Cut'.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Peter Canning, 2009

15Trad 30m
22 * Skippity Do Dah

Sherpa Tim leads the geriartrics to glory up this short but intense number.

FA: Tim Lockwood, Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth, 2009

23Trad 10m
23 Closed Project - Phil Neville

The steep seam and face at the far right hand end of the crag

Sport 15m

1.5. Epsilon Wall Bouldering 11 routes in Cliff

All Boulder

Long/Lat: 142.381176, -36.893957

Description:© (boardlord)

Take the walking track up from the Mt Zero carpark and continue to the top of Flat Rock. When the track drops down into the treeline, continue approximately 40m further until the track goes along the base of the 'Benn Gunn' Buttress of 'Epsilon Wall'. You'll be alongside an isolated boulder on the right, and the track takes a slight turn rightwards here. The wall is located up on a ledge to the left, beneath the X=X Area (aka 'Skippy' Terrace) of 'Epsilon Wall'. Either scramble up the slab (about grade 5) beneath 'Crossfire', or walk into the forest to where you can easily access the ledge system up and left.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Curtain Call

Start: Original problem on the lefthand side of the wall, starting with a sit-start.

'The Show Must Go On' is a harder version coming in from the bottom right.

2 * The Show Must Go On

start in back of cave, come thru underclings, gain the lip climb left and top out on final jug.

3 * Damsel

From horizontal, up and right to sharp pocket then up to break.

4 ** 100 Pound Club

Big move to small edge, then big move to jug

Start: From low horizontal

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

5 Primus Balerinus

Start: Takes a right-trending line across the wall starting just right of 100 Pound Club's start holds.

6 Mugabe

Takes the right-trending line via the odd pocket just left of 100 Pound Club.

FA: Simon Weill, 2000

7 *** Epsilon Crack

Start of fin/jug and use crack to gain high edge. Up to finishing jug.

8 Lullaby V10Boulder
9 ** Lullaby Traverse

Steep face on pockets, slopers and edges

Start: As for 'Down Under'

FA: Klem Loskot, 2000

10 * Down Under

Very low sit-start then traverse left - then back right to finish on the good jug. The direct straight up from the pockets (dyno) is V4/5.

11 Wallaby Memorial Boulder

Short problem on the right-side of the wall with a very awkward low sit-start.


1.6. Cloud Cuckoo Land 9 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 142.378792, -36.895284

Description:© (willmonks)

A fairly ordinary little area on the southeast side of Flat Rock, south of 'Epsilon Wall'. There are a couple of pleasant climbs for a mild spring or autumn afternoon.

Approach:© (willmonks)

Follow the marked track almost to the top of Flat Rock, to where it swings left towards 'Epsilon Wall'. Continue straight up to the top of Flat Rock. Follow easy ramps rightwards (SSW) down the southeast side of Flat Rock to where a large pinnacle sits in front of an easy-angled slab (which is part of Flat Rock). The left side of the slab is bounded by a very easy corner crack. The rock is generally appalling apart from the slab, and most of the climbs lack appeal.

Descend to the right of the climbs or by rappel when possible. Climbs are described from right to left.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 A Climb For Sue

The seam.

Start: Start near R end of back face of pinnacle.

FA: Chris Baxter, Wayne Maher, 1994

16Trad 13m
2 Pawson Climb

Balancy face-climbing.

Start: Start at the back of the pinnacle, just R of L arete.

FA: John Pawson, Chris Baxter, Wayne Maher, Meg Taylor, 1994

17Trad 15m
3 Anniversary Waltz


Start: Below the arete just R of 'Eleventh Anniversary' is a pointed boulder. Start 2m R of boulder.

FA: Wayne Maher, Chris Baxter, 1994

16Trad 20m
4 Eleventh Anniversary

Good, balancy climbing.

Start: Start opposite R arete of pinnacle.

FA: Chris Baxter, Wayne Maher, John Pawson, Meg Taylor, 1994

15Trad 20m
5 Heat Haze

Undistinguished and not well protected.

Start: Start in middle of slab.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, 1994

11 RTrad 20m
6 A Pawson Climb

Steep, juggy, rotten rock.

Start: Start around L of the slab.

FA: John Pawson, Meg Taylor, 1994

15Trad 20m
7 * What The Dormouse Said

Nice moves. Sport route. Grade 15. More than enough to earn it a star!

Start: The next route left of 'Heat Haze'.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman, 2006

15Trad 12m
8 * Grace Slick

I was going to grade it by the second-hardest move but have guessed at this. We both took a few goes on top-rope to work out the last moves but it's probably easier now it's cleaned. Sport route.

Start: The route left of 'What The Dormouse Said'.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman, 2006

20Trad 12m
9 * White Rabbit

Lovely corner that's harder than it looks.

Start: The corner on the L side of the slab.

FA: Ray Lassman, Kieran Loughran, 2006

11Trad 12m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
1 The Teddy Bear Trad 6m 1.1. The Play Pen
2 The Wise Old Rag Doll Trad 6m 1.1. The Play Pen
3 Sand Pits And Gravel Rash Trad 8m 1.1. The Play Pen
The Play Pen Play Mate Trad 7m 1.1. The Play Pen
4 The Dolls Play With Guns Trad 8m 1.1. The Play Pen
Cesspool Trad 19m 1.3. Bellerophon Wall
7 P Of P Trad 20m 1.3. Bellerophon Wall
8 * Bellerophon Trad 20m 1.3. Bellerophon Wall
9 * Magic Mushroom Trad 20m 1.3. Bellerophon Wall
10 Explorer's Rock Trad 19m 1.3. Bellerophon Wall
11 Rungwalk Trad 21m 1.3. Bellerophon Wall
Heat Haze Trad 20m 1.6. Cloud Cuckoo Land
* White Rabbit Trad 12m 1.6. Cloud Cuckoo Land
12 Blues Breaker Trad 20m 1.2. West Flank
Explorer's Groove Trad 19m 1.3. Bellerophon Wall
The Short Orange Corner Trad 20m 1.3. Bellerophon Wall
13 Blues Maker Trad 21m 1.2. West Flank
Voyage Of Discovery Trad 19m 1.3. Bellerophon Wall
14 * A Day In The Life Of Ethel The Aardvark Trad 15m 1.3. Bellerophon Wall
Fungal Fantasies Trad 20m 1.3. Bellerophon Wall
Pigpen Trad 20m 1.3. Bellerophon Wall
Scunthorpe United Trad 18m 1.3. Bellerophon Wall
Sputnik Trad 15m 1.3. Bellerophon Wall
15 Dave's Pen-dulum Trad 20m 1.3. Bellerophon Wall
Matthew Flinders Trad 19m 1.3. Bellerophon Wall
Thapsus Mixed 18m, 2 1.3. Bellerophon Wall
Epsilon Plus Trad 21m 1.4. Epsilon Wall
Skippy Takes a Shortcut Mixed 15m, 3 1.4. Epsilon Wall
Spare Ribs Trad 30m 1.4. Epsilon Wall
A Pawson Climb Trad 20m 1.6. Cloud Cuckoo Land
Eleventh Anniversary Trad 20m 1.6. Cloud Cuckoo Land
* What The Dormouse Said Trad 12m 1.6. Cloud Cuckoo Land
16 * Pegleg Trad 19m 1.3. Bellerophon Wall
Rungwalk DF Mixed 8m, 1 1.3. Bellerophon Wall
* Schooner Trad 30m 1.4. Epsilon Wall
A Climb For Sue Trad 13m 1.6. Cloud Cuckoo Land
Anniversary Waltz Trad 20m 1.6. Cloud Cuckoo Land
17 * Pharsalus Mixed 18m, 1 1.3. Bellerophon Wall
* Sky Rocket Trad 15m 1.3. Bellerophon Wall
Skip Transit Gloria Mixed 13m, 2 1.4. Epsilon Wall
Pawson Climb Trad 15m 1.6. Cloud Cuckoo Land
18 In The Groove Trad 20m 1.2. West Flank
Apollo 13 Mixed 15m, 1 1.3. Bellerophon Wall
Be My Guest Trad 22m 1.3. Bellerophon Wall
No Scruples Mixed 25m, 1 1.3. Bellerophon Wall
** Crossfire Trad 35m 1.4. Epsilon Wall
20 * Nuclear Wasteland Sport 25m, 7 1.2. West Flank
Yellow Cake Trad 30m 1.2. West Flank
* Hallucinations Mixed 20m, 1 1.3. Bellerophon Wall
Incongruity Mixed 20m, 1 1.3. Bellerophon Wall
** Robots Don't Day Dream Trad 20m 1.3. Bellerophon Wall
Streaks Ahead Trad 20m 1.3. Bellerophon Wall
* Vicious Fungus Trad 20m 1.3. Bellerophon Wall
* Benn Gunn Trad 40m 1.4. Epsilon Wall
* Mistaken Identity Trad 15m 1.4. Epsilon Wall
* Speaking French Mixed 15m, 4 1.4. Epsilon Wall
The Visiting Bloke Trad 20m 1.4. Epsilon Wall
* Grace Slick Trad 12m 1.6. Cloud Cuckoo Land
21 Tripp'n Trad 20m 1.3. Bellerophon Wall
Buried Standing Up Trad 12m 1.4. Epsilon Wall
Identity Crisis Trad 15m 1.4. Epsilon Wall
* Iron In the Soul Sport 15m, 4 1.4. Epsilon Wall
* Let X=X Trad 20m 1.4. Epsilon Wall
22 * Cooking In Chernobyl Trad 30m 1.2. West Flank
Perceived Freedom Trad 18m 1.3. Bellerophon Wall
* Decadant Bolting Mixed 15m, 2 1.4. Epsilon Wall
* Full Face Value Mixed 15m, 3 1.4. Epsilon Wall
Hop Skip and Thump Mixed 20m, 1 1.4. Epsilon Wall
V3 Curtain Call Boulder 1.5. Epsilon Wall Bouldering
* Damsel Boulder 1.5. Epsilon Wall Bouldering
23 * Unraveling Fukishima Sport 18m, 7 1.2. West Flank
* Optimal Arousal Mixed 20m, 1 1.3. Bellerophon Wall
New Imperative Trad 20m 1.4. Epsilon Wall
Ordinary Bolted Arete Trad 18m 1.4. Epsilon Wall
* Skippity Do Dah Trad 10m 1.4. Epsilon Wall
* Walking and Falling Sport 20m, 6 1.4. Epsilon Wall
V4 * Down Under Boulder 1.5. Epsilon Wall Bouldering
24 ** Melting Moments Trad 30m 1.2. West Flank
* Riding and Climbing Sport 20m, 6 1.4. Epsilon Wall
25 ** L'Essence Sport 30m, 7 1.2. West Flank
V5 *** Epsilon Crack Boulder 1.5. Epsilon Wall Bouldering
Wallaby Memorial Boulder Boulder 1.5. Epsilon Wall Bouldering
V7 Primus Balerinus Boulder 1.5. Epsilon Wall Bouldering
* The Show Must Go On Boulder 1.5. Epsilon Wall Bouldering
V10 ** 100 Pound Club Boulder 1.5. Epsilon Wall Bouldering
Lullaby Boulder 1.5. Epsilon Wall Bouldering
** Lullaby Traverse Boulder 1.5. Epsilon Wall Bouldering
V12 Mugabe Boulder 1.5. Epsilon Wall Bouldering
? Project Matt Brooks Sport 30m 1.2. West Flank
Closed Project - Phil Neville Sport 15m 1.4. Epsilon Wall