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Description

Take the walking track up from the Mt Zero carpark and continue to the top of Flat Rock. When the track drops down into the treeline, continue approximately 40m further until the track goes along the base of the 'Benn Gunn' Buttress of 'Epsilon Wall'. You'll be alongside an isolated boulder on the right, and the track takes a slight turn rightwards here. The wall is located up on a ledge to the left, beneath the X=X Area (aka 'Skippy' Terrace) of 'Epsilon Wall'. Either scramble up the slab (about grade 5) beneath 'Crossfire', or walk into the forest to where you can easily access the ledge system up and left.

© (boardlord)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.

You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/_data/assets/pdffile/0003/621246/Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf

If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start: Original problem on the lefthand side of the wall, starting with a sit-start.

'The Show Must Go On' is a harder version coming in from the bottom right.

start in back of cave, come thru underclings, gain the lip climb left and top out on final jug.

Sit start on curving crack, move left using pockets. Finish same as "The Show Must Go On"

FA: Michael Tonon

From horizontal, up and right to sharp pocket then up to break.

Big move to small edge, then big move to jug

Start: From low horizontal

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

Start: Takes a right-trending line across the wall starting just right of 100 Pound Club's start holds.

Takes the right-trending line via the odd pocket just left of 100 Pound Club.

FA: Simon Weill, 2000

Start of fin/jug and use crack to gain high edge. Up to finishing jug.

Steep face on pockets, slopers and edges

Start: As for 'Down Under'

FA: Klem Loskot, 2000

Very low sit-start then traverse left - then back right to finish on the good jug. The direct straight up from the pockets (dyno) is V4/5.

Short problem on the right-side of the wall with a very awkward low sit-start.

50m right of Epsilon Wall is a small gully leading to a terrace above. Access the terrace then walk left through the boulder corridor to find this problem. This line starts from a low sit start (left of the route 'Let X=X') using an undercling, then traverses left across small crimps to better holds in the break on the final face. Finish at the high pocket. Very reminiscent of 'Seam Grip' at Andersens.

FA: Sophie King

Sit start 4m left of the start to Pussy Power (just right of the route 'Skip Transit Gloria' with LH undercling and RH poor pinch/crimp. Pull on, slap to pocket around lip, then adjacent sloper and finish as for Pussy Power.

FA: Stephen Waring

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