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Description

Take the walking track up from the Mt Zero carpark and continue to the top of Flat Rock. When the track drops down into the treeline, continue approximately 40m further until the track goes along the base of the 'Benn Gunn' Buttress of 'Epsilon Wall'. You'll be alongside an isolated boulder on the right, and the track takes a slight turn rightwards here. The wall is located up on a ledge to the left, beneath the X=X Area (aka 'Skippy' Terrace) of 'Epsilon Wall'. Either scramble up the slab (about grade 5) beneath 'Crossfire', or walk into the forest to where you can easily access the ledge system up and left.

© (boardlord)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This entire area is currently closed due to ongoing fire activity. Fires started on 15/1/2014 and swept the area. All access is prohibited.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
V3 * Curtain Call Boulder

Start: Original problem on the lefthand side of the wall, starting with a sit-start.

'The Show Must Go On' is a harder version coming in from the bottom right.

2

start in back of cave, come thru underclings, gain the lip climb left and top out on final jug.

3
V3 * Damsel Boulder

From horizontal, up and right to sharp pocket then up to break.

4
V10 ** 100 Pound Club Boulder

Big move to small edge, then big move to jug

Start: From low horizontal

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

5
V7 Primus Balerinus Boulder

Start: Takes a right-trending line across the wall starting just right of 100 Pound Club's start holds.

6
V12 Mugabe Boulder

Takes the right-trending line via the odd pocket just left of 100 Pound Club.

FA: Simon Weill, 2000

7
V5 *** Epsilon Crack Boulder

Start of fin/jug and use crack to gain high edge. Up to finishing jug.

8
V10 Lullaby Boulder
9
V10 ** Lullaby Traverse Boulder

Steep face on pockets, slopers and edges

Start: As for 'Down Under'

FA: Klem Loskot, 2000

10
V4 * Down Under Boulder

Very low sit-start then traverse left - then back right to finish on the good jug. The direct straight up from the pockets (dyno) is V4/5.

11

Short problem on the right-side of the wall with a very awkward low sit-start.