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Description

A shady wall of Blue Mtns like wall routes with one the easiest approaches in the Grampians. Recent retrobolting and new climbs have delivered a good selection of bolted single pitch routes.

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.

You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/_data/assets/pdffile/0003/621246/Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf

If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.

Approach

It's about 150m south of the Flat Rock / Mt Zero carpark and picnic area, and only about 60m from the road heading south (i.e the road going towards Pohlner's Track and Stapylton campground). Park on the side of that road if you're really lazy. The left side of the wall is obvious: impressive yellow overhanging choss. All of the existing climbs are right of this overhanging section and are best approached by walking straight in from the dirt road or skirting right around the base of the Flat Rock slabs at the Flat Rock carpark.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

The ring bolted sport route up the main turret in the middle of the massive scooped red wall. Very hard. Closed project, being worked, please stay off.

Set by Matt Brooks, 2013

Start at The first `weakness' R of the overhanging section. Hard move over overhang to shallow left facing corner, follow this with increasing difficulty to where it ends. Traverse hard left to a tricky mantle and good face climbing up wall above. This originally had 1 bolt!

FA: Dave Fearnley, 1986

Starts up the amazingly pocketed wall then moves delicately left through scoop to small flake. Trend diagonally left to anchors.

FA: anthony pattison & carole lunny, 2016

For those that like their bombs dropped in a straight line we have The Enola Gay .The result being a nuclear wasteland. Starts up Uranium-234 till the 4th bolt then step slightly right to join in on the 5th bolt of nuclear wasteland. Continue up to the anchors of nuclear wasteland.

FFA: anthony pattison

FA: anthony pattison & carole lunny, 2016

The sport version of Yellow Cake. Start as for Yellow Cake then go slightly L and up the high wall. Note permission was given by FA to make the other routes on this wall safer and bolt them.

FA: Marek Brock-Tasler, Glen norell, Ben Alslop & Matt Brooks, 2013

Wander up the mossy wall, stepping R above the roof described, then back L to a juggy overhang. Retro bolted with permission from the FA.

Start: Start about 15m R of L'Essence, just L of a small, square-cut roof and corner close to the ground.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Chris Peisker, 1986

Start immediately R of Yellow Cake at the base of short flake and rooflet. Boulder around the R side of this and up the short crack before stepping L onto bulge. Straight up the face to the roof clipping from big undercling if roof. Over roof and up juggy flake to the top.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2015

Delicately up orange wall to first overhang. Bouldery moves over overhang, up and R to second overhang. Brushed wall to top. Retro bolted with permission from the FA.

Start: Start 7m R of 'Yellow Cake'.

FA: Shepherd & Fearnley, 1986

Start approx 4 metres right of Melting Moments. Use longer QD at fourth bolt to prevent rope drag over bulge. Up slab to base of orange wall past some excellent small and large pockets, step out right (crux) to flake, then back left, over bulge on massive jugs then direct line to lower off.

FA: Steve Holloway, Brett Williams & amanda holloway, 2016

A fun direct to UF. Follow UF past 4RBs and then straight up the wall to the anchors just L of the top of CIC. 10 bolts + anchor

FA: Matt Brooks & Jessica Shaham, 2016

A bit weird with a couple of tricky moves, especially if you're short. Starts 5m left of landmark flake, 2m right of high RB. Traverse in then mantle past shallow pockets, up flake then super reachy traverse right to cross Cooking in Chernobyl. Finish up pumpy headwall. 7 RBs + fixed sling.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

The L-facing flake that is a major feature of this wall.

Start: Start 25m R of 'Melting Moments'.

FA: Shepherd & Chris Peisker, 1986

Fantastic pumpy climbing on some great rock and holds. Start off the ledge up and to the R of CIC at an RB. Follow the hangers up and L to join UF for the last 2 RBs and its fantastic finish.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2016

Fun, easy face climbing, with some great jugs. Start of the R end of the ledge about 10 R of CIC. Follow the bolts and jugs up the face to DUB. Best to rap off as lowering kills the rope.

Set by Matt Brooks

FFA: Buck Rogers & Matt Brooks, 2016

Some nice moves. Start as for Nuclear Novice climb the first few moves of this before moving R and up the face past FHs to DRB lower off.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2017

Fun climbing and surprisingly cool holds. Starts about 5m R of UF, steep start on great holds then up the face looking for the cool pockets.

FA: Matt Brooks & Jessica Shaham, 2016

Corner, then L wall, behind chockstone and either bridge or climb face.

Start: Line R of 'Cooking In Chernobyl'.

FA: Andrew Thomson & Keith Lockwood, 1972

Not quite Nuclear. Fun climbing that starts up first 2 u bolts of Alpha Decay then steps left on fh to anchors just R of the arête at the top.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2017

starts 3m right of arête.Great climbing straight up wall on u bolts using nice side pulls and pockets .Consistent techie climbing at the grade.

Set by anthony pattison

FFA: anthony pattison

FA: anthony pattison & carole lunny, 2017

From middle of slab (L of line of FH's), weave your way up and L to via some tricky slab moves. A tad run-out, but there is more gear than appearances suggest.

FA: Goshen Watts & Aden, 2017

Scramble up ramp left of Blues Breaker. Juggy face to fun moves on pockets and slab above.

Set by Anthony Pattison

FFA: Anthony Pattison & Mike Rockell

FA: Anthony pattison, 2017

The corner.

Start: Line 18m R of 'Blues Maker'.

FA: Lockwood & Thomson, 1972

Starts 2m right of flake.Climb straight up right of bolts.Nice face climbing.

Set by anthony pattison

FFA: anthony pattison, simon gazeley & amanda holloway, 2016

FA: anthony pattison, 2016

The largest and smallest cams will be handy for the exciting finish.

Start: Start just R of 'Blues Maker'.

FA: Alan McCulloch, Norm Booth & Ed Neve, 1992

Start matched on the giant jug, move up to the pocket and jump!

FA: Mattias B-M, 2014

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