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Description

A shady wall of Blue Mtns like wall routes with one the easiest approaches in the Grampians. Recent retrobolting and new climbs have delivered a good selection of bolted single pitch routes.

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014

Here's an update from Parks Victoria (18 September 2015):

People – it has been a long time coming, and the recovering areas thank you for your patience. As of the 18th September, most of the climbing areas in the North Grampians still closed, will once again open. These areas though, are still fragile and deserve to have a little extra thought given, if and when you decide to head there. The Mt Difficult Range is still in a very fragile state and because of this, some of the closures here will remain in place, except for those cliffs listed. Check out the list below and please continue to read the care info following it. Thank you all in the climbing and bouldering community who have been understanding of the closures and have been actively promoting it to others. Lots of other areas have seen renewed interest. Whilst Nature will continue to throw these events at us, it is obvious that there are always enough cliffs and boulders to go around.

To aid the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians there is a general closure in place for rock climbing throughout the Mt Difficult Range, except for the main climbing areas stated below. Please support the long term recovery of fire affected areas by remaining out of any closed sites. See closure map for further detail. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected areas. Open and accessible rock climbing and bouldering areas in the Northern Grampians Hollow Mountain Area Barc Cliff
, Gunn Buttress
, Battlescarred Blocks / The Ammo Shop, Amnesty Wall Area
, Andersens
, Clicke Area (incl. Kindergarten routes) The Kindergarten (bouldering) Expedition Crag, 
Turtle Rocks, 
Sandinista Cliffs, 
Pensioners Wall Area, 
Red Wall Area incl Echoes Block, Loopeys
, Hollow Mountain Cave, 
Legoland, 
Cut Lunch Walls
, Koalasquatsy Wall Tribute Wall
, The Dungeon, 
Bad Moon Rising Wall Van Dieman’s Land, Rambla Wall, A-Frame Boulder

Summerday Valley Flying Blind. Wall of Fools, Back Wall Bowler Boulder

*Note closures are in place to Main wall, Left wall, Bird wall and Calcutti crag and others east of Summerday Valley due to threatened plant species regeneration, cultural heritage protection and trail degradation.Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Northern Wall, Central Buttress, Sabre Gully, 
Grey and Green Walls, Taipan Wall Spurt Wall, 
Bouldering Buttress, Lower Taipan, 
Afterglow Wall, Afterglow Boulders
,The Plaza Strip,
The Snake Pit
, Trackside Boulders. Citadel
. Ground Control Caves, Cave Club, 
Between the Sheeps, Spurt Wall (Bouldering), The Titanic (Bouldering) Flat Rock Area West Flank / Wall of Fuels, Bellepheron Wall
,Epsilon Wall
,Bouldering Cloud Cuckoo Land
, Note: new access track between flat rock, the kindergarten and Andersons via Bellepheron wall. Mt Zero Area Pangaea Walls, Toolondo Waters, 
4 Cornered Crag, 
Mt Zero Summit Cliff, Mount Zero West Walls

Iskra Crag Flower Power Block, Shadow Buttress, Emu Crag
, Sunstroke Area
, Pigs in Space Buttress, Main West Face, Dolgoruki Wall First Tier, 
Second Tier, 
Third Tier
, North Western Outcrop, Eastern Walls 36 Chambers
, Dolgoruki Wall and Three Tiers

Asses Ears Area Sunset Crags, 
The Secret Crags
, Cherub Wall
, Maul Wall, 
Wallaby Rocks, 
Conifer Wall
, Geranium (Brim) Springs, Porcelain Wall
,Wallaby Rocks
,Joey Blocks

Pohlner track and Smith Road Area The Rust Bucket, Martini Rock, Worship Wall, Point 447 ,Bordel Buttress, Mt Emu The Crows Nest, The Eyrie
, The Unnamed Cliff, An Unnamed Cliff, Olive Grove, Cave Of Ghosts Cliffs, Ghost Block,
The Olive Cave,
The Ravine

CLOSED CLIMBING AREAS

Eastern Mt Difficult Range No Mans Land, Heatherlie Heights, Cape Canavera,l Woomera The Promised Land / The Pine Plantation, Cliff Lebanon,
The Heavens, 
Lower Heavens, Lunar Walls, The Tim Tams

North West Mt Difficult Range Sickle Wall
, Mawson Slab, 
Mt Difficult Cliff, Epaminondas Buttress, Troopers Creek Cliff, Mt Difficult Summit ,Mt Bloody Impossible Mt Stapylton Campground Cave
, Sentinel Wall
, The Guardhouse, Warden Wall , Campground Boulders, Titanic Boulder, Doddery Rock, Mt Pleasant
,The Rockwall Area ,Briggs Bluff Area

NE Mt Zero Range Golton Rocks -
Cave Cliff
, Wave Wall (aka The Sundeck) / The Sun Deck The Sun Gate,
Golton Wall, 
Gog-Magog Crag, 
G-Land, 
Watchmen Wall, 
Coppermine Track Cliff

Approach

It's about 150m south of the Flat Rock / Mt Zero carpark and picnic area, and only about 60m from the road heading south (i.e the road going towards Pohlner's Track and Stapylton campground). Park on the side of that road if you're really lazy. The left side of the wall is obvious: impressive yellow overhanging choss. All of the existing climbs are right of this overhanging section and are best approached by walking straight in from the dirt road or skirting right around the base of the Flat Rock slabs at the Flat Rock carpark.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1

The ring bolted sport route up the main turret in the middle of the massive scooped red wall. Very hard. Closed project, being worked, please stay off.

Set by Matt Brooks, 2013

2
25 ** L'Essence Sport 30m, 7

Start at The first `weakness' R of the overhanging section. Hard move over over hang to shallow left facing corner, follw this with increasing difficulty to where it ends. Traverse hard left to a tricky mantle and good face climbing up wall above. This originally had 1 bolt!

FA: Dave Fearnley, 1986

3
23 * Uranium-234 Sport 30m, 10

Starts up the amazingly pocketed wall then moves delicately left through scoop to small flake. Trend diagonally left to anchors.

FA: anthony pattison & carole lunny, 2016

4
23 ** The Enola Gay Sport 20m, 10

For those that like their bombs dropped in a straight line we have The Enola Gay .The result being a nuclear wasteland. Starts up Uranium-234 till the 4th bolt then step slightly right to join in on the 5th bolt of nuclear wasteland. Continue up to the anchors of nuclear wasteland.

FFA: anthony pattison

FA: anthony pattison & carole lunny, 2016

5
20 * Nuclear Wasteland Sport 25m, 7

The sport version of Yellow Cake. Start as for Yellow Cake then go slightly L and up the high wall. Note permission was given by FA to make the other routes on this wall safer and bolt them.

FA: Marek Brock-Tasler, Glen norell, Ben Alslop & Matt Brooks, 2013

6
20 Yellow Cake Sport 30m

Wander up the mossy wall, stepping R above the roof described, then back L to a juggy overhang. Retro bolted with permission from the FA.

Start: Start about 15m R of L'Essence, just L of a small, square-cut roof and corner close to the ground.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Chris Peisker, 1986

7
22 * The Hot Zone Sport 22m, 8

Start immediately R of Yellow Cake at the base of short flake and rooflet. Boulder around the R side of this and up the short crack before stepping L onto bulge. Straight up the face to the roof clipping from big undercling if roof. Over roof and up juggy flake to the top.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2015

8
24 ** Melting Moments Sport 30m, 8

Delicately up orange wall to first overhang. Bouldery moves over overhang, up and R to second overhang. Brushed wall to top. Retro bolted with permission from the FA.

Start: Start 7m R of 'Yellow Cake'.

FA: Shepherd & Fearnley, 1986

9
22 * Minutes to Midnight Sport 30m, 7

Start approx 4 metres right of Melting Moments. Use longer QD at fourth bolt to prevent rope drag over bulge. Up slab to base of orange wall past some excellent small and large pockets, step out right (crux) to flake, then back left, over bulge on massive jugs then direct line to lower off.

FA: Steve Holloway, Brett Williams & amanda holloway, 2016

10
22 * Three eyes and a third leg Sport 20m, 10

A fun direct to UF. Follow UF past 4RBs and then straight up the wall to the anchors just L of the top of CIC. 10 bolts + anchor

FA: Matt Brooks & Jessica Shaham, 2016

11
23 ** Unraveling Fukishima Sport 18m, 7

A bit weird with a couple of tricky moves, especially if you're short. Starts 5m left of landmark flake, 2m right of high RB. Traverse in then mantle past shallow pockets, up flake then super reachy traverse right to cross Cooking in Chernobyl. Finish up pumpy headwall. 7 RBs + fixed sling.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

12

The L-facing flake that is a major feature of this wall.

Start: Start 25m R of 'Melting Moments'.

FA: Shepherd & Chris Peisker, 1986

13
23 ** Without Warning Sport 15m, 8

Fantastic pumpy climbing on some great rock and holds. Start off the ledge up and to the R of CIC at an RB. Follow the hangers up and L to join UF for the last 2 RBs and its fantastic finish.

FA: Matt Brooks, 2016

14
16 * Nuclear Novice Sport 15m, 5

Fun, easy face climbing, with some great jugs. Start of the R end of the ledge about 10 R of CIC. Follow the bolts and jugs up the face to DUB lower off.

Set by Matt Brooks

FFA: Buck Rogers & Matt Brooks, 2016

15
17 ** Dirty Bomb Sport 15m, 7

Fun climbing and surprisingly cool holds. Starts about 5m R of UF, steep start on great holds then up the face looking for the cool pockets.

FA: Matt Brooks & Jessica Shaham, 2016

16
13 * Blues Maker Trad 21m

Corner, then L wall, behind chockstone and either bridge or climb face.

Start: Line R of 'Cooking In Chernobyl'.

FA: Andrew Thomson & Keith Lockwood, 1972

17
18 In The Groove Trad 20m

The largest and smallest cams will be handy for the exciting finish.

Start: Start just R of 'Blues Maker'.

FA: Alan McCulloch, Norm Booth & Ed Neve, 1992

18
12 Blues Breaker Trad 20m

The corner.

Start: Line 18m R of 'Blues Maker'.

FA: Lockwood & Thomson, 1972

19
19 * Nuclear Error Sport 15m, 7

Starts 2m right of flake.Climb straight up right of bolts.Nice face climbing.

Set by anthony pattison

FFA: anthony pattison, simon gazeley & amanda holloway, 2016

FA: anthony pattison, 2016

20
V9 ** Leave it all behind Boulder 4m

Start matched on the giant jug, move up to the pocket and jump!

FA: Mattias B-M, 2014

Activity

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