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Description

Most of the following has been copied directly from Kieran Loughran's excellent Amphitheatre guide - thanks!

The crag faces west and gets sun in the afternoon. Climbs are described from left to right.

© (willmonks)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 17 September 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

In January 2014 a large bushfire swept through the Northern Grampians causing widespread damage to visitor sites, roads and walking tracks. Many popular rockclimbing and bouldering sites were also impacted including Hollow Mountain, Summerday Valley and Mt Stapylton.

The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Recently, Parks Victoria, volunteers and contractors completed recovery projects within rock climbing areas to reinstate damaged walking trails, realign rock climbing access and replace directional signage.

As of Saturday 20th September access will once again be available to rock climbing and bouldering areas within the Stapylton Amphitheatre in addition to those already available in the Flat Rock area. The access track from Flat Rock has been realigned into Grey and Green Walls and to Taipan wall. Please follow these new alignments and refrain from walking off track.

Open Rock Climbing and Bouldering Areas in the Northern Grampians:

  • Central Buttress
  • Grey & Green Walls
  • Taipan Wall (Upper and Lower)
  • Spurt Wall
  • Epsilon Wall
  • Trackside Bouldering area
  • Snakepit
  • Wildsides
  • Spurt and Afterglow

Closures remain in place at all other Northern Grampians Climbing and Bouldering sites for the time being, including Summerday Valley, Andersons, The kindergarten, Van Diemens Land and Cut Lunch Walls. Stapylton Campground also remains closed. Plantation Campground is the closest, open campground.

Parks Victoria will continue to assess damage and undertake recovery works over the coming months. Updates will be posted as re-openings occur. Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on anyone found in any closed, fire affected areas.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parks.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Flat Rock
  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:
  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Approach

It's about 150m south of the Flat Rock / Mt Zero carpark and picnic area, and only about 60m from the road heading south (i.e the road going towards Pohlner's Track and Stapylton campground). Park on the side of that road if you're really lazy. The left side of the wall is obvious: impressive yellow overhanging choss. All of the existing climbs are right of this overhanging section and are best approached by walking straight in from the dirt road (which is obvious from the photo below).

© (willmonks)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1

The ring bolted sport route up the main turret in the middle of the massive scooped red wall. Very hard.

Set by Matt Brooks, 2013

2
25 ** L'Essence Sport 30m, 7

Start at The first `weakness' R of the overhanging section. Hard move over over hang to shallow left facing corner, follw this with increasing difficulty to where it ends. Traverse hard left to a tricky mantle and good face climbing up wall above. This originally had 1 bolt!

FA: Dave Fearnley, 1986

3
20 * Nuclear Wasteland Sport 25m, 7

The sport version of Yellow Cake. Start as for Yellow Cake then go slightly L and up the high wall. Note permission was given by FA to make the other routes on this wall safer and bolt them.

FA: Marek Brock-Tasler, Glen norell, Ben Alslop, Matt Brooks, 2013

4
20 Yellow Cake Trad 30m

Wander up the mossy wall, stepping R above the roof described, then back L to a juggy overhang.

Start: Start about 15m R of L'Essence, just L of a small, square-cut roof and corner close to the ground.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Chris Peisker, 1986

5
24 ** Melting Moments Trad 30m

Delicately up orange wall to first overhang. Bouldery moves over overhang, bolt, up and R to second overhang. Brushed wall to top.

Start: Start 7m R of 'Yellow Cake'.

FA: Shepherd, Fearnley, 1986

6
23 * Unraveling Fukishima Sport 18m, 7

A bit weird with a couple of tricky moves, especially if you're short. Starts 5m left of landmark flake, 2m right of high RB. Traverse in then mantle past shallow pockets, up flake then super reachy traverse right to cross Cooking in Chernobyl. Finish up pumpy headwall. 7 RBs + fixed sling.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2012

7

The L-facing flake that is a major feature of this wall.

Start: Start 25m R of 'Melting Moments'.

FA: Shepherd, Chris Peisker, 1986

8
13 Blues Maker Trad 21m

Corner, then L wall, behind chockstone and either bridge or climb face.

Start: Line R of 'Cooking In Chernobyl'.

FA: Andrew Thomson, Keith Lockwood, 1972

9
18 In The Groove Trad 20m

The largest and smallest cams will be handy for the exciting finish.

Start: Start just R of 'Blues Maker'.

FA: Alan McCulloch, Norm Booth, Ed Neve, 1992

10
12 Blues Breaker Trad 20m

The corner.

Start: Line 18m R of 'Blues Maker'.

FA: Lockwood, Thomson, 1972