Site navigation

Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Description

The pickings on this wall are quite respectable. There are a few pumpy things down the left end, some reasonable easier climbs in the middle of the crag and a collection of good, thin face routes on the right wall of 'Bellerophon'. In the past this cliff was known as Flat Rock East Flank. There are abseil anchors/DBBs in place above Bellerophon and Thapsus.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.

You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/_data/assets/pdffile/0003/621246/Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf

If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.

Approach

It is a long, low cliff that runs pretty much parallel to the walking track up Flat Rock. Start up Flat Rock and cut across left to the cliff. A short orange corner at the left end of the cliff called, amazingly enough, 'The Short Orange Corner' and a major corner further right, 'Bellerophon', are good landmarks.

The rock mostly faces west and is in shade to early afternoon but the right wall of 'Bellerophon' faces north and is in sun much earlier. It's a terrible place in late summer when the stored heat of Flat Rock radiates onto it. Descend by double rap rings above 'Bellerophon' or a long walk down via an easy scramble just left of the short orange corner at the far left end of the cliff. A DBB/Abseil anchor services the area around Voyage of Discovery. The climbs are described from left to right.

© (nmonteith)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

Somewhat novel. Move up to L end of horizontal crack. Follow line R until it runs out, continue to corner and step down. Now reverse it or, perhaps, don't bother to start.

FA: David Lovell & Maryborough Venturers sometime., 2000

Don't blink. You're probably sick of this climb by the time you've read to here. The corner stands out from the walking track but is not very attractive on close acquaintance. Start by a tree below and L of the short orange corner at the L end of the cliff. Diagonally R to corner, up corner a bit. Step R around arete and finish steeply.

FA: Details unknown., 2000

Steep. Boring adjective but exciting climbing.

Start: Start below overhanging wall a few m R of 'The Short Orange Corner'.

FA: Peter Martin & Ed Neve, 1987

Looks ridiculously hard for the grade.

FA: Peter Martin, Jarod McCulloch & Simon Mentz, 1988

Another year, another climb. Start 20m R of 'Optimal Arousal' opposite cave/boulder. 'Steep' wall, hand traverse L then up easy crack.

FA: Peter Martin, 1989

Up crack 2m left of 'Sky Rocket', step left and follow vague groove to top.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran, Tim Lockwood & Glen Jones, 1999

Unobtrusive but quite pleasant. Crack 10m R of 'Perceived Freedom'. Approach from the R and walk L to end of ledge. Up with a tricky start and thin midsection.

FA: James McIntosh & Melanie Taws, 1987

Steep and enjoyable enough climbing through juggy bulges. Crack 5m R of 'Sky Rocket'.

FA: Mcintosh & Taws, 1987

Bolt left of Pegleg

FA: noddy

Looks filthy but the climbing is much better than it appears. Needs a more direct finish.

Start: Just left of 'Pegleg' below the dirty groove

FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 2000

Very nice. Thin crack with an old piton 5m L of 'Bellerophon' and 10m R of Aditloeta. Awkward bulging top is hard to protect. May have been top-roped or aided ages ago.

FA: Allan Hope, 1986

Reachy climbing up face between 'Bellerophon' and 'Pegleg'. Be careful with pro.

FA: Aidan Banfield, 1989

Something of an easy classic. The major corner to the ledge and rap rings.

FA: Charles Gunst, Richard Rodd & Margaret Brookes, 1974

Quite serious for the grade. Not well protected at first, potential groundfall from 7m, can be protected with an No 1 and 0.75 Camalot in a break at about 4-5m. Runout at top. Take large hexes or cams. Start 2m R of 'Bellerophon'. Up tending L a tad to a sling at horizontal break. Up and R to nut, then up and leftish to finish just R of corner, taking care with large boulder.

FA: Matt Brooks & Aidan Banfield, 1989

Good face-climbing with some subtle placements. Cams to #3½.

Start: Thin cracks 2m R of 'Matthew Flinders', 2m L of prominent black water streak.

FA: Aidan Banfield & Matthew Brooks, 1990

Sustained face climbing on turtle shell rock.

Start: Middle of face R of 'Bellerophon', 2m R of 'Vicious Fungus', on left edge of black streak. Take small cams and wires.

FA: Graeme Smith & Gunther Zippel, 1990

Start: Black water streak 8m R of 'Bellerophon', 2m R of 'Streaks Ahead'.

FA: Brooks & Banfield, 1992

Looks good. 3m R of black water streak is a slight groove. Up L edge of groove.

FA: Brooks, Jeff Manton & Banfield, 1990

Good fun and surprisingly exposed. Take 5 or 6 slings. Start just R of 'Fungal Fantasies'. Head up slightly R to climb the "mushrooms" on the wall just L of the scoop, move a bit L to finish.

FA: Mark Savage & Banfield, 1989

3m L of Explorer’s Groove. Up to scoop then up R on large slightly suspect holds to large ledge. Either continue on up or head R to the DBB above Pharsalus.

FA: Jerry Maddox & Philip Armstrong, 2012

Steep, easy climbing with unexpected jugs and gear. Crack 15m R of the scooped arete.

FA: Uknown, 2000

Surprisingly good climbing for this section of the wall. 5m R of Explorer’s Groove, the second seam R of EG. Up to and up seam/crack to ledge, slightly L and up head wall via FH to ledge. DBB and abseil.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 2012

A good companion to Pharsalus. 1.5m R of Pharsalus. Up to and up crack to ledge, then up steep groove to FH. Up and R past this to a 2nd FH. Up steeply to DBB.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 2012

4m R of Thapsus and 1.5m L of the big deep crack of Voyage of Discovery. Up crack finishing up arête on poor rock and protection. DBB

FA: Philip Armstrong & Jerry Maddox, 2012

Crack 10m R of Explorer's Groove.

FA: Unknown, 2000

We intended to climb directly up the seam past the bolt but couldn’t do it, hopefully someone else will. A bit artificial as it stands as the more you keep using holds to the R the easier it is. Crack 2m L of Rungwalk to ledge. A seam continues up past a ring bolt. Step R and use side pulls on the arête to get started and move up to knob on next ledge [clip ring bolt before these moves]. Continue up to large ledge. Walk L from here to DBB or finish up Rungwalk DF

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 2012

L of two lines 10m R of 'Voyage Of Discovery'. Up the narrow groove to an open smooth groove.

FA: Barry Windridge, Ian Thorn & Gordon Bedford, 2000

Rungwalk finishes at a ledge below a headwall. Continue up the seam over the bulge passing a ringbolt.

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 2012

Sounds gorgeous. Easy line 6m R of 'Rungwalk'.

FA: Bedford, Windridge & Thorn., 2000

I can see them queuing for this. Cracks 9m R of 'Cesspool', 3m L of blocks.

FA: Bedford, Windridge & Thorn., 2000

Activity

Check out what is happening in Bellerophon Wall.