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The pickings on this wall are quite respectable. There are a few pumpy things down the left end, some reasonable easier climbs in the middle of the crag and a collection of good, thin face routes on the right wall of 'Bellerophon'. In the past this cliff was known as Flat Rock East Flank. There are abseil anchors/DBBs in place above Bellerophon and Thapsus.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014

Here's an update from Parks Victoria (18 September 2015):

People – it has been a long time coming, and the recovering areas thank you for your patience. As of the 18th September, most of the climbing areas in the North Grampians still closed, will once again open. These areas though, are still fragile and deserve to have a little extra thought given, if and when you decide to head there. The Mt Difficult Range is still in a very fragile state and because of this, some of the closures here will remain in place, except for those cliffs listed. Check out the list below and please continue to read the care info following it. Thank you all in the climbing and bouldering community who have been understanding of the closures and have been actively promoting it to others. Lots of other areas have seen renewed interest. Whilst Nature will continue to throw these events at us, it is obvious that there are always enough cliffs and boulders to go around.

To aid the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians there is a general closure in place for rock climbing throughout the Mt Difficult Range, except for the main climbing areas stated below. Please support the long term recovery of fire affected areas by remaining out of any closed sites. See closure map for further detail. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected areas. Open and accessible rock climbing and bouldering areas in the Northern Grampians Hollow Mountain Area Barc Cliff
, Gunn Buttress
, Battlescarred Blocks / The Ammo Shop, Amnesty Wall Area
, Andersens
, Clicke Area (incl. Kindergarten routes) The Kindergarten (bouldering) Expedition Crag, 
Turtle Rocks, 
Sandinista Cliffs, 
Pensioners Wall Area, 
Red Wall Area incl Echoes Block, Loopeys
, Hollow Mountain Cave, 
Cut Lunch Walls
, Koalasquatsy Wall Tribute Wall
, The Dungeon, 
Bad Moon Rising Wall Van Dieman’s Land, Rambla Wall, A-Frame Boulder

Summerday Valley Flying Blind. Wall of Fools, Back Wall Bowler Boulder

*Note closures are in place to Main wall, Left wall, Bird wall and Calcutti crag and others east of Summerday Valley due to threatened plant species regeneration, cultural heritage protection and trail degradation.Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Northern Wall, Central Buttress, Sabre Gully, 
Grey and Green Walls, Taipan Wall Spurt Wall, 
Bouldering Buttress, Lower Taipan, 
Afterglow Wall, Afterglow Boulders
,The Plaza Strip,
The Snake Pit
, Trackside Boulders. Citadel
. Ground Control Caves, Cave Club, 
Between the Sheeps, Spurt Wall (Bouldering), The Titanic (Bouldering) Flat Rock Area West Flank / Wall of Fuels, Bellepheron Wall
,Epsilon Wall
,Bouldering Cloud Cuckoo Land
, Note: new access track between flat rock, the kindergarten and Andersons via Bellepheron wall. Mt Zero Area Pangaea Walls, Toolondo Waters, 
4 Cornered Crag, 
Mt Zero Summit Cliff, Mount Zero West Walls

Iskra Crag Flower Power Block, Shadow Buttress, Emu Crag
, Sunstroke Area
, Pigs in Space Buttress, Main West Face, Dolgoruki Wall First Tier, 
Second Tier, 
Third Tier
, North Western Outcrop, Eastern Walls 36 Chambers
, Dolgoruki Wall and Three Tiers

Asses Ears Area Sunset Crags, 
The Secret Crags
, Cherub Wall
, Maul Wall, 
Wallaby Rocks, 
Conifer Wall
, Geranium (Brim) Springs, Porcelain Wall
,Wallaby Rocks
,Joey Blocks

Pohlner track and Smith Road Area The Rust Bucket, Martini Rock, Worship Wall, Point 447 ,Bordel Buttress, Mt Emu The Crows Nest, The Eyrie
, The Unnamed Cliff, An Unnamed Cliff, Olive Grove, Cave Of Ghosts Cliffs, Ghost Block,
The Olive Cave,
The Ravine


Eastern Mt Difficult Range No Mans Land, Heatherlie Heights, Cape Canavera,l Woomera The Promised Land / The Pine Plantation, Cliff Lebanon,
The Heavens, 
Lower Heavens, Lunar Walls, The Tim Tams

North West Mt Difficult Range Sickle Wall
, Mawson Slab, 
Mt Difficult Cliff, Epaminondas Buttress, Troopers Creek Cliff, Mt Difficult Summit ,Mt Bloody Impossible Mt Stapylton Campground Cave
, Sentinel Wall
, The Guardhouse, Warden Wall , Campground Boulders, Titanic Boulder, Doddery Rock, Mt Pleasant
,The Rockwall Area ,Briggs Bluff Area

NE Mt Zero Range Golton Rocks -
Cave Cliff
, Wave Wall (aka The Sundeck) / The Sun Deck The Sun Gate,
Golton Wall, 
Gog-Magog Crag, 
Watchmen Wall, 
Coppermine Track Cliff


It is a long, low cliff that runs pretty much parallel to the walking track up Flat Rock. Start up Flat Rock and cut across left to the cliff. A short orange corner at the left end of the cliff called, amazingly enough, 'The Short Orange Corner' and a major corner further right, 'Bellerophon', are good landmarks.

The rock mostly faces west and is in shade to early afternoon but the right wall of 'Bellerophon' faces north and is in sun much earlier. It's a terrible place in late summer when the stored heat of Flat Rock radiates onto it. Descend by double rap rings above 'Bellerophon' or a long walk down via an easy scramble just left of the short orange corner at the far left end of the cliff. A DBB/Abseil anchor services the area around Voyage of Discovery. The climbs are described from left to right.

© (nmonteith)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
15 Dave's Pen-dulum Trad 20m

Somewhat novel. Move up to L end of horizontal crack. Follow line R until it runs out, continue to corner and step down. Now reverse it or, perhaps, don't bother to start.

FA: David Lovell & Maryborough Venturers sometime., 2000


Don't blink. You're probably sick of this climb by the time you've read to here. The corner stands out from the walking track but is not very attractive on close acquaintance. Start by a tree below and L of the short orange corner at the L end of the cliff. Diagonally R to corner, up corner a bit. Step R around arete and finish steeply.

FA: Details unknown., 2000

23 * Optimal Arousal Mixed 20m, 1

Steep. Boring adjective but exciting climbing.

Start: Start below overhanging wall a few m R of 'The Short Orange Corner'.

FA: Peter Martin & Ed Neve, 1987

20 Incongruity Mixed 20m, 1

Looks ridiculously hard for the grade.

FA: Peter Martin, Jarod McCulloch & Simon Mentz, 1988

22 Perceived Freedom Trad 18m

Another year, another climb. Start 20m R of 'Optimal Arousal' opposite cave/boulder. 'Steep' wall, hand traverse L then up easy crack.

FA: Peter Martin, 1989

14 Sputnik Trad 15m

Up crack 2m left of 'Sky Rocket', step left and follow vague groove to top.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran, Tim Lockwood & Glen Jones, 1999

17 * Sky Rocket Trad 15m

Unobtrusive but quite pleasant. Crack 10m R of 'Perceived Freedom'. Approach from the R and walk L to end of ledge. Up with a tricky start and thin midsection.

FA: James McIntosh & Melanie Taws, 1987


Steep and enjoyable enough climbing through juggy bulges. Crack 5m R of 'Sky Rocket'.

FA: Mcintosh & Taws, 1987

18 Apollo 13 Mixed 15m, 1

Bolt left of Pegleg

FA: noddy

14 Pigpen Trad 20m

Looks filthy but the climbing is much better than it appears. Needs a more direct finish.

Start: Just left of 'Pegleg' below the dirty groove

FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 2000

16 * Pegleg Trad 19m

Very nice. Thin crack with an old piton 5m L of 'Bellerophon' and 10m R of Aditloeta. Awkward bulging top is hard to protect. May have been top-roped or aided ages ago.

FA: Allan Hope, 1986


Reachy climbing up face between 'Bellerophon' and 'Pegleg'. Be careful with pro.

FA: Aidan Banfield, 1989

8 Bellerophon Trad 20m

Something of an easy classic. The major corner to the ledge and rap rings.

FA: Charles Gunst, Richard Rodd & Margaret Brookes, 1974

18 Be My Guest Trad 22m
15 Matthew Flinders Trad 19m

Quite serious for the grade. Not well protected at first, potential groundfall from 7m. Take large hexes or cams. Start 2m R of 'Bellerophon'. Up tending L a tad to a sling at horizontal break. Up and R to nut, then up and leftish to finish just R of corner, taking care with large boulder.

FA: Unknown, 2000

20 * Vicious Fungus Trad 20m

Good face-climbing with some subtle placements. Cams to #3½.

Start: Thin cracks 2m R of 'Matthew Flinders', 2m L of prominent black water streak.

FA: Aidan Banfield & Matthew Brooks, 1990

20 Streaks Ahead Trad 20m

Sustained face climbing on turtle shell rock.

Start: Middle of face R of 'Bellerophon', 2m R of 'Vicious Fungus', on left edge of black streak. Take small cams and wires.

FA: Graeme Smith & Gunther Zippel, 1990

21 Tripp'n Trad 20m
20 * Hallucinations Mixed 20m, 1

Start: Black water streak 8m R of 'Bellerophon', 2m R of 'Streaks Ahead'.

FA: Brooks & Banfield, 1992

14 Fungal Fantasies Trad 20m

Looks good. 3m R of black water streak is a slight groove. Up L edge of groove.

FA: Brooks, Jeff Manton & Banfield, 1990

9 ** Magic Mushroom Trad 20m

Good fun and surprisingly exposed. Take 5 or 6 slings. Start just R of 'Fungal Fantasies'. Head up slightly R to climb the "mushrooms" on the wall just L of the scoop, move a bit L to finish.

FA: Mark Savage & Banfield, 1989

10 Explorer's Rock Trad 19m

3m L of Explorer’s Groove. Up to scoop then up R on large slightly suspect holds to large ledge. Either continue on up or head R to the DBB above Pharsalus.

FA: Jerry Maddox & Philip Armstrong, 2012

12 Explorer's Groove Trad 19m

Steep, easy climbing with unexpected jugs and gear. Crack 15m R of the scooped arete.

FA: Uknown, 2000

17 * Pharsalus Mixed 18m, 1

Surprisingly good climbing for this section of the wall. 5m R of Explorer’s Groove, the second seam R of EG. Up to and up seam/crack to ledge, slightly L and up head wall via FH to ledge. DBB and abseil.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 2012

15 Thapsus Mixed 18m, 2

A good companion to Pharsalus. 1.5m R of Pharsalus. Up to and up crack to ledge, then up steep groove to FH. Up and R past this to a 2nd FH. Up steeply to DBB.

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 2012

14 Scunthorpe United Trad 18m

4m R of Thapsus and 1.5m L of the big deep crack of Voyage of Discovery. Up crack finishing up arête on poor rock and protection. DBB

FA: Philip Armstrong & Jerry Maddox, 2012


Crack 10m R of Explorer's Groove.

FA: Unknown, 2000

18 No Scruples Mixed 25m, 1

We intended to climb directly up the seam past the bolt but couldn’t do it, hopefully someone else will. A bit artificial as it stands as the more you keep using holds to the R the easier it is. Crack 2m L of Rungwalk to ledge. A seam continues up past a ring bolt. Step R and use side pulls on the arête to get started and move up to knob on next ledge [clip ring bolt before these moves]. Continue up to large ledge. Walk L from here to DBB or finish up Rungwalk DF

FA: Philip Armstrong & Peter Cody, 2012

11 Rungwalk Trad 21m

L of two lines 10m R of 'Voyage Of Discovery'. Up the narrow groove to an open smooth groove.

FA: Barry Windridge, Ian Thorn & Gordon Bedford, 2000

16 Rungwalk DF Mixed 8m, 1

Rungwalk finishes at a ledge below a headwall. Continue up the seam over the bulge passing a ringbolt.

FA: Peter Cody & Philip Armstrong, 2012

4 Cesspool Trad 19m

Sounds gorgeous. Easy line 6m R of 'Rungwalk'.

FA: Bedford, Windridge & Thorn., 2000

7 P Of P Trad 20m

I can see them queuing for this. Cracks 9m R of 'Cesspool', 3m L of blocks.

FA: Bedford, Windridge & Thorn., 2000


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