Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» Go exploring, » Learn more or » Ask us a question

Description

The pickings on this wall are quite respectable. There are a few pumpy things down the left end, some reasonable easier climbs in the middle of the crag and a collection of good, thin face routes on the right wall of 'Bellerophon'. In the past this cliff was known as Flat Rock East Flank. There are abseil anchors/DBBs in place above Bellerophon and Thapsus.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 17 September 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

In January 2014 a large bushfire swept through the Northern Grampians causing widespread damage to visitor sites, roads and walking tracks. Many popular rockclimbing and bouldering sites were also impacted including Hollow Mountain, Summerday Valley and Mt Stapylton.

The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Recently, Parks Victoria, volunteers and contractors completed recovery projects within rock climbing areas to reinstate damaged walking trails, realign rock climbing access and replace directional signage.

As of Saturday 20th September access will once again be available to rock climbing and bouldering areas within the Stapylton Amphitheatre in addition to those already available in the Flat Rock area. The access track from Flat Rock has been realigned into Grey and Green Walls and to Taipan wall. Please follow these new alignments and refrain from walking off track.

Open Rock Climbing and Bouldering Areas in the Northern Grampians:

  • Central Buttress
  • Grey & Green Walls
  • Taipan Wall (Upper and Lower)
  • Spurt Wall
  • Epsilon Wall
  • Trackside Bouldering area
  • Snakepit
  • Wildsides
  • Spurt and Afterglow

Closures remain in place at all other Northern Grampians Climbing and Bouldering sites for the time being, including Summerday Valley, Andersons, The kindergarten, Van Diemens Land and Cut Lunch Walls. Stapylton Campground also remains closed. Plantation Campground is the closest, open campground.

Parks Victoria will continue to assess damage and undertake recovery works over the coming months. Updates will be posted as re-openings occur. Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on anyone found in any closed, fire affected areas.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parks.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Flat Rock
  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:
  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Approach

It is a long, low cliff that runs pretty much parallel to the walking track up Flat Rock. Start up Flat Rock and cut across left to the cliff. A short orange corner at the left end of the cliff called, amazingly enough, 'The Short Orange Corner' and a major corner further right, 'Bellerophon', are good landmarks.

The rock mostly faces west and is in shade to early afternoon but the right wall of 'Bellerophon' faces north and is in sun much earlier. It's a terrible place in late summer when the stored heat of Flat Rock radiates onto it. Descend by double rap rings above 'Bellerophon' or a long walk down via an easy scramble just left of the short orange corner at the far left end of the cliff. A DBB/Abseil anchor services the area around Voyage of Discovery. The climbs are described from left to right.

© (nmonteith)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
15 Dave's Pen-dulum Trad 20m

Somewhat novel. Move up to L end of horizontal crack. Follow line R until it runs out, continue to corner and step down. Now reverse it or, perhaps, don't bother to start.

FA: David Lovell, Maryborough Venturers sometime., 2000

2

Don't blink. You're probably sick of this climb by the time you've read to here. The corner stands out from the walking track but is not very attractive on close acquaintance. Start by a tree below and L of the short orange corner at the L end of the cliff. Diagonally R to corner, up corner a bit. Step R around arete and finish steeply.

FA: Details unknown., 2000

3
23 * Optimal Arousal Mixed 20m, 1

Steep. Boring adjective but exciting climbing.

Start: Start below overhanging wall a few m R of 'The Short Orange Corner'.

FA: Peter Martin, Ed Neve, 1987

4
20 Incongruity Mixed 20m, 1

Looks ridiculously hard for the grade.

FA: Peter Martin, Jarod McCulloch, Simon Mentz, 1988

5
22 Perceived Freedom Trad 18m

Another year, another climb. Start 20m R of 'Optimal Arousal' opposite cave/boulder. 'Steep' wall, hand traverse L then up easy crack.

FA: Peter Martin, 1989

6
14 Sputnik Trad 15m

Up crack 2m left of 'Sky Rocket', step left and follow vague groove to top.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran, Tim Lockwood, Glen Jones, 1999

7
17 * Sky Rocket Trad 15m

Unobtrusive but quite pleasant. Crack 10m R of 'Perceived Freedom'. Approach from the R and walk L to end of ledge. Up with a tricky start and thin midsection.

FA: James McIntosh, Melanie Taws, 1987

8

Steep and enjoyable enough climbing through juggy bulges. Crack 5m R of 'Sky Rocket'.

FA: Mcintosh, Taws, 1987

9
18 Apollo 13 Mixed 15m, 1

Bolt left of Pegleg

FA: noddy

10
14 Pigpen Trad 20m

Looks filthy but the climbing is much better than it appears. Needs a more direct finish.

Start: Just left of 'Pegleg' below the dirty groove

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, 2000

11
16 * Pegleg Trad 19m

Very nice. Thin crack with an old piton 5m L of 'Bellerophon' and 10m R of Aditloeta. Awkward bulging top is hard to protect. May have been top-roped or aided ages ago.

FA: Allan Hope, 1986

12

Reachy climbing up face between 'Bellerophon' and 'Pegleg'. Be careful with pro.

FA: Aidan Banfield, 1989

13
8 * Bellerophon Trad 20m

Something of an easy classic. The major corner to the ledge and rap rings.

FA: Charles Gunst, Richard Rodd, Margaret Brookes, 1974

14
18 Be My Guest Trad 22m
15
15 Matthew Flinders Trad 19m

Quite serious for the grade. Not well protected at first, potential groundfall from 7m. Take large hexes or cams. Start 2m R of 'Bellerophon'. Up tending L a tad to a sling at horizontal break. Up and R to nut, then up and leftish to finish just R of corner, taking care with large boulder.

FA: Unknown, 2000

16
20 * Vicious Fungus Trad 20m

Good face-climbing with some subtle placements. Cams to #3½.

Start: Thin cracks 2m R of 'Matthew Flinders', 2m L of prominent black water streak.

FA: Aidan Banfield, Matthew Brooks, 1990

17
20 Streaks Ahead Trad 20m

Sustained face climbing on turtle shell rock.

Start: Middle of face R of 'Bellerophon', 2m R of 'Vicious Fungus', on left edge of black streak. Take small cams and wires.

FA: Graeme Smith, Gunther Zippel, 1990

18
21 Tripp'n Trad 20m
19
20 * Hallucinations Mixed 20m, 1

Start: Black water streak 8m R of 'Bellerophon', 2m R of 'Streaks Ahead'.

FA: Brooks, Banfield, 1992

20
14 Fungal Fantasies Trad 20m

Looks good. 3m R of black water streak is a slight groove. Up L edge of groove.

FA: Brooks, Jeff Manton, Banfield, 1990

21
7 * Magic Mushroom Trad 20m

Good fun and surprisingly exposed. Take 5 or 6 slings. Start just R of 'Fungal Fantasies' and climb the "mushrooms" on the wall just L of the scooped arete.

FA: Mark Savage, Banfield, 1989

22
10 Explorer's Rock Trad 19m

3m L of Explorer’s Groove. Up to scoop then up R on large slightly suspect holds to large ledge. Either continue on up or head R to the DBB above Pharsalus.

FA: Jerry Maddox, Philip Armstrong, 2012

23
12 Explorer's Groove Trad 19m

Steep, easy climbing with unexpected jugs and gear. Crack 15m R of the scooped arete.

FA: Uknown, 2000

24
17 * Pharsalus Trad 18m

Surprisingly good climbing for this section of the wall. 5m R of Explorer’s Groove, the second seam R of EG. Up to and up seam/crack to ledge, slightly L and up head wall via FH to ledge. DBB and abseil.

FA: Philip Armstrong, Peter Cody, 2012

25
15 Thapsus Trad 18m

A good companion to Pharsalus. 1.5m R of Pharsalus. Up to and up crack to ledge, then up steep groove to FH. Up and R past this to a 2nd FH. Up steeply to DBB.

FA: Philip Armstrong, Peter Cody, 2012

26
14 Scunthorpe United Trad 18m

4m R of Thapsus and 1.5m L of the big deep crack of Voyage of Discovery. Up crack finishing up arête on poor rock and protection. DBB

FA: Philip Armstrong, Jerry Maddox, 2012

27

Crack 10m R of Explorer's Groove.

FA: Unknown, 2000

28
18 No Scruples Trad 25m

We intended to climb directly up the seam past the bolt but couldn’t do it, hopefully someone else will. A bit artificial as it stands as the more you keep using holds to the R the easier it is. Crack 2m L of Rungwalk to ledge. A seam continues up past a ring bolt. Step R and use side pulls on the arête to get started and move up to knob on next ledge [clip ring bolt before these moves]. Continue up to large ledge. Walk L from here to DBB or finish up Rungwalk DF

FA: Philip Armstrong, Peter Cody, 2012

29
11 Rungwalk Trad 21m

L of two lines 10m R of 'Voyage Of Discovery'. Up the narrow groove to an open smooth groove.

FA: Barry Windridge, Ian Thorn, Gordon Bedford, 2000

30
16 Rungwalk DF Trad 8m

Rungwalk finishes at a ledge below a headwall. Continue up the seam over the bulge passing a ringbolt.

FA: Peter Cody, Philip Armstrong, 2012

31
4 Cesspool Trad 19m

Sounds gorgeous. Easy line 6m R of 'Rungwalk'.

FA: Bedford, Windridge, Thorn., 2000

32
7 P Of P Trad 20m

I can see them queuing for this. Cracks 9m R of 'Cesspool', 3m L of blocks.

FA: Bedford, Windridge, Thorn., 2000