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Description

A fairly ordinary little area on the southeast side of Flat Rock, south of 'Epsilon Wall'. There are a couple of pleasant climbs for a mild spring or autumn afternoon.

© (willmonks)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.

You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/_data/assets/pdffile/0003/621246/Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf

If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.

Approach

Follow the marked track almost to the top of Flat Rock, to where it swings left towards 'Epsilon Wall'. Continue straight up to the top of Flat Rock. Follow easy ramps rightwards (SSW) down the southeast side of Flat Rock to where a large pinnacle sits in front of an easy-angled slab (which is part of Flat Rock). The left side of the slab is bounded by a very easy corner crack. The rock is generally appalling apart from the slab, and most of the climbs lack appeal.

Descend to the right of the climbs or by rappel when possible. Climbs are described from right to left.

© (willmonks)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

The seam.

Start: Start near R end of back face of pinnacle.

FA: Chris Baxter & Wayne Maher, 1994

Balancy face-climbing.

Start: Start at the back of the pinnacle, just R of L arete.

FA: John Pawson, Chris Baxter, Wayne Maher & Meg Taylor, 1994

Steep.

Start: Below the arete just R of 'Eleventh Anniversary' is a pointed boulder. Start 2m R of boulder.

FA: Wayne Maher & Chris Baxter, 1994

Good, balancy climbing.

Start: Start opposite R arete of pinnacle.

FA: Chris Baxter, Wayne Maher, John Pawson & Meg Taylor, 1994

Undistinguished and not well protected.

Start: Start in middle of slab.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1994

Steep, juggy, rotten rock.

Start: Start around L of the slab.

FA: John Pawson & Meg Taylor, 1994

Nice moves. Sport route. Grade 15. More than enough to earn it a star!

Start: The next route left of 'Heat Haze'.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Ray Lassman, 2006

I was going to grade it by the second-hardest move but have guessed at this. We both took a few goes on top-rope to work out the last moves but it's probably easier now it's cleaned. Sport route.

Start: The route left of 'What The Dormouse Said'.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Ray Lassman, 2006

Lovely corner that's harder than it looks.

Start: The corner on the L side of the slab.

FA: Ray Lassman & Kieran Loughran, 2006

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