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Description

A fairly ordinary little area on the southeast side of Flat Rock, south of 'Epsilon Wall'. There are a couple of pleasant climbs for a mild spring or autumn afternoon.

© (willmonks)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This entire area is currently closed due to ongoing fire activity. Fires started on 15/1/2014 and swept the area. All access is prohibited.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

Approach

Follow the marked track almost to the top of Flat Rock, to where it swings left towards 'Epsilon Wall'. Continue straight up to the top of Flat Rock. Follow easy ramps rightwards (SSW) down the southeast side of Flat Rock to where a large pinnacle sits in front of an easy-angled slab (which is part of Flat Rock). The left side of the slab is bounded by a very easy corner crack. The rock is generally appalling apart from the slab, and most of the climbs lack appeal.

Descend to the right of the climbs or by rappel when possible. Climbs are described from right to left.

© (willmonks)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
16 A Climb For Sue Trad 13m

The seam.

Start: Start near R end of back face of pinnacle.

FA: Chris Baxter, Wayne Maher, 1994

2
17 Pawson Climb Trad 15m

Balancy face-climbing.

Start: Start at the back of the pinnacle, just R of L arete.

FA: John Pawson, Chris Baxter, Wayne Maher, Meg Taylor, 1994

3
16 Anniversary Waltz Trad 20m

Steep.

Start: Below the arete just R of 'Eleventh Anniversary' is a pointed boulder. Start 2m R of boulder.

FA: Wayne Maher, Chris Baxter, 1994

4

Good, balancy climbing.

Start: Start opposite R arete of pinnacle.

FA: Chris Baxter, Wayne Maher, John Pawson, Meg Taylor, 1994

5
11 R Heat Haze Trad 20m

Undistinguished and not well protected.

Start: Start in middle of slab.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, 1994

6
15 A Pawson Climb Trad 20m

Steep, juggy, rotten rock.

Start: Start around L of the slab.

FA: John Pawson, Meg Taylor, 1994

7

Nice moves. Sport route. Grade 15. More than enough to earn it a star!

Start: The next route left of 'Heat Haze'.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman, 2006

8
20 * Grace Slick Trad 12m

I was going to grade it by the second-hardest move but have guessed at this. We both took a few goes on top-rope to work out the last moves but it's probably easier now it's cleaned. Sport route.

Start: The route left of 'What The Dormouse Said'.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Ray Lassman, 2006

9
11 * White Rabbit Trad 12m

Lovely corner that's harder than it looks.

Start: The corner on the L side of the slab.

FA: Ray Lassman, Kieran Loughran, 2006