Pacific Ocean Wall Rock climbing10 routes in cliff
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Pacific Ocean Wall is a spectacular wall of unbroken rock, 100-120m high, stretching for over a kilometer. While some protection can be found in the highly textured rock, it is often not adequate for the length of a route and usually some fixed protection is required.
Access issues inherited from North Grampians
This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014
Here's an update from Parks Victoria:
Grampians National Park Update – 17 September 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)
In January 2014 a large bushfire swept through the Northern Grampians causing widespread damage to visitor sites, roads and walking tracks. Many popular rockclimbing and bouldering sites were also impacted including Hollow Mountain, Summerday Valley and Mt Stapylton.
The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.
Recently, Parks Victoria, volunteers and contractors completed recovery projects within rock climbing areas to reinstate damaged walking trails, realign rock climbing access and replace directional signage.
As of Saturday 20th September access will once again be available to rock climbing and bouldering areas within the Stapylton Amphitheatre in addition to those already available in the Flat Rock area. The access track from Flat Rock has been realigned into Grey and Green Walls and to Taipan wall. Please follow these new alignments and refrain from walking off track.
Open Rock Climbing and Bouldering Areas in the Northern Grampians:
- Central Buttress
- Grey & Green Walls
- Taipan Wall (Upper and Lower)
- Spurt Wall
- Epsilon Wall
- Trackside Bouldering area
- Spurt and Afterglow
Closures remain in place at all other Northern Grampians Climbing and Bouldering sites for the time being, including Summerday Valley, Andersons, The kindergarten, Van Diemens Land and Cut Lunch Walls. Stapylton Campground also remains closed. Plantation Campground is the closest, open campground.
Parks Victoria will continue to assess damage and undertake recovery works over the coming months. Updates will be posted as re-openings occur. Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on anyone found in any closed, fire affected areas.
Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parks.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.
For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:
Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:
- Stapylton Amphitheatre
- Flat Rock
- Wonderland Range
- Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
- Mt William Range
- Victoria Point area
- Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
- Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:
- Stapylton Amphitheatre
- Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
- Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
- Mt Arapiles
- Mt Talbot
- The Black Range
Please remember your climbing etiquette:
- Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
- Stick to tracks
- Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
- Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
- Be mindful of cleaning
- No chipping or bolting
- Avoid excessive chalk
- Take your rubbish home with you
There are two approaches:
Walk up the Briggs Bluff Walking Track to the first highpoint past Beehive Falls. Pacific Ocean Wall is on the other side of the creek. Turn off the walking track at the highpoint and follow the cliffline. Stay as close to the RH edge of the plateau for the easiest walking.
From an off-road Camp Area 3.8km from Mt Zero Rd, follow pink ribbons and faint track.Takes you to the start of the consistent cliff line near the base of Ghandi.
To access the top of the cliff, continue up the BBWT. It swings south when it reaches the top of POW and follows the top of the wall along a plateau.
The Briggs Bluff Walking Trail runs along the top of the cliff, 50-100m from the cliff edge for about 2/3rds of its length. At the southern end of the cliff, head north along the cliff edge until you can find the trail.
There are rap stations provided on and above the Kon Tiki Face.
Start at left end of the main wall see topo.
60m, Grade 6 - Up, trending right of ledge to belay off cams in groove.
50m, Grade 10 - Up easily to the red tide line, then start traversing. Pass one bolt and belay at the next on the blunt arête.
56m Grade 6 - Continue traverse past one BR to a 3-cam belay.
55m, Grade 8 - Traverse right. Belay 2-3m past a corner using cams.
55m, Grade 8 - Travers right. Ste down onto a bushy ledge for a cam belay
55m, Grade7 - Follow the plates right to to a DBB before the waterfall.
55m, Grade 13 - The Waterfall - follow the bolts across the waterfall, then step up and arounf the arête for cam placements. Cam belay when the rope runs out (you should be able to see your belayer)
58m, Grade 3 - Easily R to DBB
58m, Grade 8 - R past shallow corner and DBB before runnel.
60m, Grade 14 - Step adown and across the runnel. Easily to bolt on arête then run-out to next arête for SBB + cam/nut.
35m, Grade 16 (crux) - R past shallow corner and around pillar. Step up onto dinner plates to clip next bolt, then step down and R to next. Move up and R again to get to clean slab. Mantle down a body length to easier traverse, then clip higher bolt to protect the second. DRB belay.
58m, Grade 11 - R around the arête. Slightly down and R across the bowl, then down and R again to DBB on big fin.
60m, Grade 10 - Second Waterfall - CLimb down L side of ledge, place a wire and traverse into and easily across the waterfall, losing a couple of meters to gain an easy traverse line on the next wall. Continue R (bolt) to reach the base of the Kon-Tiki face. Continue past DBB (Ripples, 20) to belay at DRB (Ra Ra Ra, 20)
56m Grade 15 - The Fragile Pitch - R 8m then step up (bolt?)and continue R another 12m. Step up again (BR) and more easily R to DBB
59m, Grade 8 - Climb down 2-3m, then right across a runnel (BR). Continue easily to good sloping stance, SBB + cam.
59m, Grade 2 - Obvious travers line to SBB (+ cam)
59m, Grade 6 - The Horn Pitch - Sling the phallic horn on your way to the large bushy ledge. SBB + cam.
52m, Grade 12 - The Turret pitch and some vertical climbing! -Up shallow groove (no pro) then between the horns to a shallow corner (BR). Up the rounded arête to the final, well protected exit crack.
Descent - Rap 22m from rings to the right of the last belay. Walk L (facing away from the cliff) past the Coral Cave, then down the scrubby slabs into the bush. Trend back right to reach the more open plateau.
FA: Martin Jackson, Steve Toal, 2013