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Description

Pacific Ocean Wall is a spectacular wall of unbroken rock, 100-120m high, stretching for over a kilometer. While some protection can be found in the highly textured rock, it is often not adequate for the length of a route and usually some fixed protection is required.

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.

You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/_data/assets/pdffile/0003/621246/Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf

If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.

Approach

There are two approaches:

  1. Walk up the Briggs Bluff Walking Track to the first highpoint past Beehive Falls. Pacific Ocean Wall is on the other side of the creek. Turn off the walking track at the highpoint and follow the cliffline. Stay as close to the RH edge of the plateau for the easiest walking.

  2. From an off-road Camp Area 3.8km from Mt Zero Rd, follow pink ribbons and faint track.Takes you to the start of the consistent cliff line near the base of Ghandi.

To access the top of the cliff, continue up the BBWT. It swings south when it reaches the top of POW and follows the top of the wall along a plateau.

Descent notes

The Briggs Bluff Walking Trail runs along the top of the cliff, 50-100m from the cliff edge for about 2/3rds of its length. At the southern end of the cliff, head north along the cliff edge until you can find the trail.

There are rap stations provided on and above the Kon Tiki Face.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

Start at left end of the main wall see topo.

  1. 60m, Grade 6 - Up, trending right of ledge to belay off cams in groove.

  2. 50m, Grade 10 - Up easily to the red tide line, then start traversing. Pass one bolt and belay at the next on the blunt arête.

  3. 56m Grade 6 - Continue traverse past one BR to a 3-cam belay.

  4. 55m, Grade 8 - Traverse right. Belay 2-3m past a corner using cams.

  5. 55m, Grade 8 - Travers right. Ste down onto a bushy ledge for a cam belay

  6. 55m, Grade7 - Follow the plates right to to a DBB before the waterfall.

  7. 55m, Grade 13 - The Waterfall - follow the bolts across the waterfall, then step up and arounf the arête for cam placements. Cam belay when the rope runs out (you should be able to see your belayer)

  8. 58m, Grade 3 - Easily R to DBB

  9. 58m, Grade 8 - R past shallow corner and DBB before runnel.

  10. 60m, Grade 14 - Step adown and across the runnel. Easily to bolt on arête then run-out to next arête for SBB + cam/nut.

  11. 35m, Grade 16 (crux) - R past shallow corner and around pillar. Step up onto dinner plates to clip next bolt, then step down and R to next. Move up and R again to get to clean slab. Mantle down a body length to easier traverse, then clip higher bolt to protect the second. DRB belay.

  12. 58m, Grade 11 - R around the arête. Slightly down and R across the bowl, then down and R again to DBB on big fin.

  13. 60m, Grade 10 - Second Waterfall - CLimb down L side of ledge, place a wire and traverse into and easily across the waterfall, losing a couple of meters to gain an easy traverse line on the next wall. Continue R (bolt) to reach the base of the Kon-Tiki face. Continue past DBB (Ripples, 20) to belay at DRB (Ra Ra Ra, 20)

  14. 56m Grade 15 - The Fragile Pitch - R 8m then step up (bolt?)and continue R another 12m. Step up again (BR) and more easily R to DBB

  15. 59m, Grade 8 - Climb down 2-3m, then right across a runnel (BR). Continue easily to good sloping stance, SBB + cam.

  16. 59m, Grade 2 - Obvious travers line to SBB (+ cam)

  17. 59m, Grade 6 - The Horn Pitch - Sling the phallic horn on your way to the large bushy ledge. SBB + cam.

  18. 52m, Grade 12 - The Turret pitch and some vertical climbing! -Up shallow groove (no pro) then between the horns to a shallow corner (BR). Up the rounded arête to the final, well protected exit crack.

Descent - Rap 22m from rings to the right of the last belay. Walk L (facing away from the cliff) past the Coral Cave, then down the scrubby slabs into the bush. Trend back right to reach the more open plateau.

FA: Martin Jackson & Steve Toal, 2013

A big boulder 50m out form the cliff marks the start of the climb. The crack line.

Start 15 to the right of the distictive waterfall on the most prominent part of the face.

  1. Straight up with adequate protection to a good belay ledge. 50m, 12

  2. Up the steepening red rock past three FH to ledge, then easier ground (1FH) to big ledge at DBB. 50m, 14

  3. Scramble another 10m to place cams in a horizontal break for a belay.

FFA: Martin Jackson & Ben Jackson, 2011

“Stillborn” – an aborted attempt on the wall, abandoned due to weather but written up either as an easy single-pitch route or for someone to finish later. About 50m right of Wacko Jacko there is a triangular boulder about 2m high, standing about 3m from the cliff, with a left-facing corner high above. Start here. Up 8m to a bolt, then continue up to a ledge and over easy ground to another steepening (bolt) then to a good ledge with two rings and a third hangerless bolt. Pro can be found in pockets with a rack of small to medium cams. Rap off.

FFA: Steve Toal, Steve Gretton & Nina Chevalier, 2012

Obvious clean-cut corner at the left end of the face. Start immediately under the corner line.

  1. Scramble to ledge at 6m, step left into crack for protection and follow until level with the base of the corner. Traverse right 2-3m along the rib with hands or feet to reach the corner. (30m, 14)

  2. Bridge up the elegant corner to the roof. Move right (FH) and carefully up the next little lichenous corner to another FH before moving left onto the arete to finish. (30m, 16)

FFA: Martin Jackson & John Bentley, 2012

Absorbing thin climbing on smears and ripples between TKTE and the moss streak . Start a few metres to the right of TTKE.

  1. Easy climbing past five FH to DBB (25m, 10)

  2. Step 3m right and carefully balance your way up the face. Don’t be tempted by the crack near the top; only join TKTE at the FH at the roof. Finish up TKTE. (11 FH, 35m, 20)

FFA: Martin Jackson & Craig Orgill, 2012

Launched in wet conditions which considerably softens the rock. Better in the dry.

  1. Start 10m right of Ripples under the line of bolts. Follow the bolts to the DBB (6FH, 30m, 11)

  2. Straight up the steepening face. A couple of small-medium cams can be placed before reaching the line of bolts. Move right once you’re on the big ledges to make a thin face move (crux) to finish at DRB (8FH, 30m, 17)

FFA: Martin Jackson, Stew Donn & Lynne Waddington, 2012

Lovely face climbing on good edges, although the crux is an alarming step with no hands. The fingertip ledge is a relief once you can reach it, but you still have to mantle it. Avoid shuffling left to the bigger ledge for the full effect. Start 7m to the right of BWR, slightly to the right of the bush on the ledge above.

  1. Good quality rock scrambling with sufficient cams for protection to DRB (25m, 11)

  2. Thin face moves allow you to gain a short vertical seam which is followed to a good foot rail. Traverse 2-3m left to reach more positive edges, then directly up the steepening face. Final moves as per BWR (8FH, 35m, 20)

FFA: Martin Jackson, Craig Orgill & Mei Ying Liew, 2012

Activity

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