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Description

Pacific Ocean Wall is a spectacular wall of unbroken rock, 100-120m high, stretching for over a kilometer. While some protection can be found in the highly textured rock, it is often not adequate for the length of a route and usually some fixed protection is required.

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This entire area is currently closed due to ongoing fire activity. Fires started on 15/1/2014 and swept the area. All access is prohibited.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

Approach

There are two approaches:

  1. Walk up the Briggs Bluff Walking Track to the first highpoint past Beehive Falls. Pacific Ocean Wall is on the other side of the creek. Turn off the walking track at the highpoint and follow the cliffline. Stay as close to the RH edge of the plateau for the easiest walking.

  2. From an off-road Camp Area 3.8km from Mt Zero Rd, follow pink ribbons and faint track.Takes you to the start of the consistent cliff line near the base of Ghandi.

To access the top of the cliff, continue up the BBWT. It swings south when it reaches the top of POW and follows the top of the wall along a plateau.

Descent Notes

The Briggs Bluff Walking Trail runs along the top of the cliff, 50-100m from the cliff edge for about 2/3rds of its length. At the southern end of the cliff, head north along the cliff edge until you can find the trail.

There are rap stations provided on and above the Kon Tiki Face.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
Access Unknown
2
16 ** RedTide Mixed 1000m, 36

Start at left end of the main wall see topo.

  1. 60m, Grade 6 - Up, trending right of ledge to belay off cams in groove.

  2. 50m, Grade 10 - Up easily to the red tide line, then start traversing. Pass one bolt and belay at the next on the blunt arête.

  3. 56m Grade 6 - Continue traverse past one BR to a 3-cam belay.

  4. 55m, Grade 8 - Traverse right. Belay 2-3m past a corner using cams.

  5. 55m, Grade 8 - Travers right. Ste down onto a bushy ledge for a cam belay

  6. 55m, Grade7 - Follow the plates right to to a DBB before the waterfall.

  7. 55m, Grade 13 - The Waterfall - follow the bolts across the waterfall, then step up and arounf the arête for cam placements. Cam belay when the rope runs out (you should be able to see your belayer)

  8. 58m, Grade 3 - Easily R to DBB

  9. 58m, Grade 8 - R past shallow corner and DBB before runnel.

  10. 60m, Grade 14 - Step adown and across the runnel. Easily to bolt on arête then run-out to next arête for SBB + cam/nut.

  11. 35m, Grade 16 (crux) - R past shallow corner and around pillar. Step up onto dinner plates to clip next bolt, then step down and R to next. Move up and R again to get to clean slab. Mantle down a body length to easier traverse, then clip higher bolt to protect the second. DRB belay.

  12. 58m, Grade 11 - R around the arête. Slightly down and R across the bowl, then down and R again to DBB on big fin.

  13. 60m, Grade 10 - Second Waterfall - CLimb down L side of ledge, place a wire and traverse into and easily across the waterfall, losing a couple of meters to gain an easy traverse line on the next wall. Continue R (bolt) to reach the base of the Kon-Tiki face. Continue past DBB (Ripples, 20) to belay at DRB (Ra Ra Ra, 20)

  14. 56m Grade 15 - The Fragile Pitch - R 8m then step up (bolt?)and continue R another 12m. Step up again (BR) and more easily R to DBB

  15. 59m, Grade 8 - Climb down 2-3m, then right across a runnel (BR). Continue easily to good sloping stance, SBB + cam.

  16. 59m, Grade 2 - Obvious travers line to SBB (+ cam)

  17. 59m, Grade 6 - The Horn Pitch - Sling the phallic horn on your way to the large bushy ledge. SBB + cam.

  18. 52m, Grade 12 - The Turret pitch and some vertical climbing! -Up shallow groove (no pro) then between the horns to a shallow corner (BR). Up the rounded arête to the final, well protected exit crack.

Descent - Rap 22m from rings to the right of the last belay. Walk L (facing away from the cliff) past the Coral Cave, then down the scrubby slabs into the bush. Trend back right to reach the more open plateau.

FA: Martin Jackson, Steve Toal, 2013

3
14 Ghandi Trad 130m

A big boulder 50m out form the cliff marks the start of the climb. The crack line.

4
14 Wacko Jacko Mixed 110m, 4

Start 15 to the right of the distictive waterfall on the most prominent part of the face.

  1. Straight up with adequate protection to a good belay ledge. 50m, 12

  2. Up the steepening red rock past three FH to ledge, then easier ground (1FH) to big ledge at DBB. 50m, 14

  3. Scramble another 10m to place cams in a horizontal break for a belay.

FFA: Martin Jackson, Ben Jackson, 2011

5
9 Totgeboren Mixed 50m, 2

“Stillborn” – an aborted attempt on the wall, abandoned due to weather but written up either as an easy single-pitch route or for someone to finish later. About 50m right of Wacko Jacko there is a triangular boulder about 2m high, standing about 3m from the cliff, with a left-facing corner high above. Start here. Up 8m to a bolt, then continue up to a ledge and over easy ground to another steepening (bolt) then to a good ledge with two rings and a third hangerless bolt. Pro can be found in pockets with a rack of small to medium cams. Rap off.

FFA: Steve Toal, Steve Gretton, Nina Chevalier, 2012

6
16 The Kon-Tiki Expedition Mixed 60m, 2

Obvious clean-cut corner at the left end of the face. Start immediately under the corner line.

  1. Scramble to ledge at 6m, step left into crack for protection and follow until level with the base of the corner. Traverse right 2-3m along the rib with hands or feet to reach the corner. (30m, 14)

  2. Bridge up the elegant corner to the roof. Move right (FH) and carefully up the next little lichenous corner to another FH before moving left onto the arete to finish. (30m, 16)

FFA: Martin Jackson, John Bentley, 2012

7
20 * Ripples Sport 60m, 17

Absorbing thin climbing on smears and ripples between TKTE and the moss streak . Start a few metres to the right of TTKE.

  1. Easy climbing past five FH to DBB (25m, 10)

  2. Step 3m right and carefully balance your way up the face. Don’t be tempted by the crack near the top; only join TKTE at the FH at the roof. Finish up TKTE. (11 FH, 35m, 20)

FFA: Martin Jackson, Craig Orgill, 2012

8
17 Balsa Wood Raft Sport 60m, 14

Launched in wet conditions which considerably softens the rock. Better in the dry.

  1. Start 10m right of Ripples under the line of bolts. Follow the bolts to the DBB (6FH, 30m, 11)

  2. Straight up the steepening face. A couple of small-medium cams can be placed before reaching the line of bolts. Move right once you’re on the big ledges to make a thin face move (crux) to finish at DRB (8FH, 30m, 17)

FFA: Martin Jackson, Stew Donn, Lynne Waddington, 2012

9
20 * Ra Ra Ra Mixed 60m, 9

Lovely face climbing on good edges, although the crux is an alarming step with no hands. The fingertip ledge is a relief once you can reach it, but you still have to mantle it. Avoid shuffling left to the bigger ledge for the full effect. Start 7m to the right of BWR, slightly to the right of the bush on the ledge above.

  1. Good quality rock scrambling with sufficient cams for protection to DRB (25m, 11)

  2. Thin face moves allow you to gain a short vertical seam which is followed to a good foot rail. Traverse 2-3m left to reach more positive edges, then directly up the steepening face. Final moves as per BWR (8FH, 35m, 20)

FFA: Martin Jackson, Craig Orgill, Mei Ying Liew, 2012