Centurion Walls Mostly Trad climbing33 routes in cliff
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This is a semi-sport crag located below the 'Briggs Bluff' massif. The rock is steep orange sandstone walls with
the occasional cave thrown in for good measure. Most of the
better routes are grade 20+ and protected mainly by bolts.
The fixed equipment used on this cliff are either stainless
steel expansion bolts or glue-in ringbolts. Most climbs have
rap anchors to facilitate easy descent and cleaning. The first
ascentists have endeavored to camouflage fixed equipment
by painting hangers and rings with matt textured paint. The first
bolts on routes are usually relatively high off the deck so a stickclip is useful. Much of the rock is soft, so try and avoid climbing within 24 hours of recent rain. Routes such as 'Winged Corpse', 'Psychotic' Episode and 'Killer Wolf' are good wet weather routes. Black streaks on the rock are marks of water seepage which means these routes are not climbable after heavy rain. A light rack of gear is required for many of the routes - a single set of cams and wires will suffice on all apart from 'Kublai Khan' and 'Stone Temptress'. There is still some potential for new lines to be done.© (nmonteith)
Access issues inherited from North Grampians
This area is now reopen after the fires in early 2014.
You can see the latest parks update on track / area closures at: http://parkweb.vic.gov.au/_data/assets/pdffile/0003/621246/Grampians-National-Park-Update.pdf
If there are crag specific closures, please update the access on those crags.
These cliffs are in the Mt Difficult Range (Nth Grampians), in
'Victoria'. From 'Melbourne' drive to Stawell and continue north towards Horshum for about 15 minutes, then take the well signposted road left to Roses Gap. If you drive past the Big Koala you have gone too far. Aprox 10km down this road just before Roses Gap turn left down Roses Gap/Mt Zero Road (dirt) heading south for 1.2 km (24km north from Delley's Bridge in Halls Gap). Park on the side of the road near a large rock cairn. In the distance on the right is a low orange wall (Centurion) with a large grey wall above (Briggs Bluff). The upper wall has a large arch formation. Follow well cut track with some tape markersand rock cairns for about 15 minutes, walking
through light scrub to arrive at the centre of the 'Lower Wall'.
If you want to camp the two best bets are the Fire Dam about
500m along Halls Gap/Mt Zero Rd from Roses Gap or Troopers
Creek campsite (payment required) which is several kilometres
west along Roses Gap Rd. You can also camp in a sheltered
sandy cave to the right of 'Progressive Happy House' at the cliff.© (nmonteith)
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
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