Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» Go exploring, » Learn more or » Ask us a question

Description

This is a semi-sport crag located below the 'Briggs Bluff' massif. The rock is steep orange sandstone walls with

the occasional cave thrown in for good measure. Most of the

better routes are grade 20+ and protected mainly by bolts.

The fixed equipment used on this cliff are either stainless

steel expansion bolts or glue-in ringbolts. Most climbs have

rap anchors to facilitate easy descent and cleaning. The first

ascentists have endeavored to camouflage fixed equipment

by painting hangers and rings with matt textured paint. The first

bolts on routes are usually relatively high off the deck so a stickclip is useful. Much of the rock is soft, so try and avoid climbing within 24 hours of recent rain. Routes such as 'Winged Corpse', 'Psychotic' Episode and 'Killer Wolf' are good wet weather routes. Black streaks on the rock are marks of water seepage which means these routes are not climbable after heavy rain. A light rack of gear is required for many of the routes - a single set of cams and wires will suffice on all apart from 'Kublai Khan' and 'Stone Temptress'. There is still some potential for new lines to be done.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This entire area is currently closed due to ongoing fire activity. Fires started on 15/1/2014 and swept the area. All access is prohibited.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

Approach

These cliffs are in the Mt Difficult Range (Nth Grampians), in

'Victoria'. From 'Melbourne' drive to Stawell and continue north towards Horshum for about 15 minutes, then take the well signposted road left to Roses Gap. If you drive past the Big Koala you have gone too far. Aprox 10km down this road just before Roses Gap turn left down Roses Gap/Mt Zero Road (dirt) heading south for 1.2 km (24km north from Delley's Bridge in Halls Gap). Park on the side of the road near a large rock cairn. In the distance on the right is a low orange wall (Centurion) with a large grey wall above (Briggs Bluff). The upper wall has a large arch formation. Follow well cut track with some tape markersand rock cairns for about 15 minutes, walking

through light scrub to arrive at the centre of the 'Lower Wall'.

If you want to camp the two best bets are the Fire Dam about

500m along Halls Gap/Mt Zero Rd from Roses Gap or Troopers

Creek campsite (payment required) which is several kilometres

west along Roses Gap Rd. You can also camp in a sheltered

sandy cave to the right of 'Progressive Happy House' at the cliff.

© (nmonteith)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1

Named after the Malvern Road, Prahran share house that lasted 10 years. The best of the easy trad routes of the cliff. Head diagonally

right on big horizontal breaks to vertical reachy transition. Up easily to top and tree belay. Bring lots of cams. Rap off tree above Push It Upstairs.

FA: Neil Monteith

2
23 ** Push it Upstairs Trad 15m

Sandbag one move wonder. Starts the same as 'Progressive Happy House'. Move up on big horizontals for 7m . Traverse left for 3m and up to another good slot. Dyno crux then up wall to belay tree. Rap off tree to descend.

FA: Nick McKinnon & Neil Monteith, 1999

3
26 *** Phychotic Episode Mixed 15m, 4

Super classic overhung orange wall

FA: Nick McKinnon

4

Up 'Psychotic' Episode to second bolt. Traverse left along

horizontal, bust through roof (crux - 28?) and onwards up leftt to top. Needs more bolts at finish.

FA: Equipped Neil Monteith, 2004

5
22 ** Stone Temptress Trad 20m

Crack traverse

FA: Neil Monteith

6
22 * Kublai Khan Trad 45m

Old guard route with powerful climbing through steep territory. Start about 10m left of 'Psychotic' Episode. Climb orange and black striped rock to first overhang. Traverse 3m L then up steeply until a traverse line leads back R between more overhangs. Committing moves over the next overhang lead to a dark red patch of rock and a hanging corner/weakness. Up this and finish out right of the summit roof.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1996

7
22 ** Pining For The Fiords Mixed 20m, 6

The parrot in the horizontal is most certainly dead – or perhaps it's just resting? 'Steep' cave climbing across a major feature on sometimes bizarre conglomerate rock. As of Sep 2011 there appeared to be a bees nest on this route.

Start: Starts 5m right of The 'Compressor Route'.

FA: Vaus

FA: Monteith, Michael Lawrence, Adam Demmert & Catherine de

FA: Neil Monteith, 2006

8
27 ** Compressor Route Mixed 20m, 9

The hardest route at 'Centurion', and an epic first ascent by a persistent Nick over several months. This route was bolted in an electrical storm using a large industrial generator which had to be dragged into the crag.

A long route with a sting in the tail. Climb past BR and broken rock into scoop, then very bouldery move left across cave. At sixth ring bolt go right and direct up face past limestone like large pocket and micro edges through bulge. 9 RB's and chain lower off.

FA: Nick McKinnon

9
25 * Antichrist Superstar Mixed 20m, 8

Wandery climbing on great rock. As for 'Compressor Route' to sixth bolt, then shuffle right along horizontal for a few moves (2 rings) to no hands rest in slot. Straight up a few moves to twin pocket jugs then hard right (ignore high ring) to break and good cam slot. Up again on pockets to jugs and pumpy conclusion past last ring to double ring lower off. Extend runners to avoid rope drag. Should be rebolted and straightened out.

FA: Neil Monteith

10
26 ** Devilled Haircut Mixed 25m, 9

Left hand varient to the Compressor route.

FA: Neil MOnteith, 2003

11
21 ** Killer Wolf Mixed 15m, 3

The scene of several tantrums by strong climbers, this one is famous for a forearm pump from hell on the traverse. One of the better easier routes at the crag although it seeps heavily after rain and the finish can be sandy. 'The scoop' and roof flake about 10m right of 'Lexicon'. Into small cave (FH), roof flake (medium cams) to small stance and FH. Head left on jugs past fixed chain on RB then straight up to double rings. The direct finish straight up from second FH is a good looking open project.

FA: Nick McKinnon Neil Monteith

12
19 R Ghengis Khan Trad 45m

Interesting wall climbing with much suspect rock. Starts about 10m right of Pining for the Fiords at the left most black streak that reaches the ground (flows out of a small wind blown scoop immediately left of a large pile of boulders). Up 4m to the small bush on right. Traverse left for 4m along the break then straight up the wall above to finish just left of the dead tree at the top of the cliff.

FA: Campbell Mercer & Alan Hope, 1995

13
17 * Temujin Trad 65m
14
17 R Lexicon Trad 25m

Looks appalling. Even ten bolts wouldn't make this safe. Up the centre of the black streak 10m left of 'Killer Wolf' through two overhangs and finishing up right of the small bush at two thirds height.

FA: Campbell Mercer, Allan Hope & Mike Mulcairn, 1999

15
19 R Liberator Trad 25m

A nice feature spoilt by a scary start and less than great rock. Take the steep right hand arete of the small buttress just right of 'Shades of Black'. Scramble in to start across choss from the right. Up arete steeply to the ledge and then up face above on jugs. To avoid rope drag you can split this into two short pitches.

FA: Campbell Mercer & Mark Poustie, 1995

16
16 R Shades of Black Trad 25m

A clearer shade of choss? The first route done on the cliff. 'Steep' bold climbing on outrageous holds and quite a bit of bird shit. Starts at very small section of "brain" like rock at right hand end of small white cave about 30m right of 'Left Hand Black'. Straight up to left hand side of buttress. Up flake on left then up and right to top of buttress. Straight up wall above.

FA: Campbell Mercer, Peter Watling, Allan Hope & Mike Mulcairn, 1995

17
24 * Damage Done Trad 35m

Unrepeated in 10 years? It is a shame this excellent steep wall and roof has such a crappy uninspiring start. Ramble up 'Shades of Black' to the bird shit stained ledge at about 15m height. Hand traverse left here and head up pocketed wall past a FH to under big roof. 'Monkey' across this past another FH to finish. Bring medium wires, cams and slings.

FA: Neil Monteith & Tom Briggs (UK), 1998

18
23 * Afterworld Mixed 20m, 5

Right hand black? Sustained steep climbing through a big roof. Starts as for 'Left Hand Black' until third bolt, then traverse right (FH) to under large roof, over this (FH) and up trad protected corner to finish.

FA: Neil Monteith

19
23 ** Left Hand Black Mixed 18m, 5

The first route bolted at 'Centurion Walls' by the young team of Nick & Neil. A popular sustained sport route with a committing crux. Named after the black pattern on the rock. The route climbs the steep left edge of a cave, continues directly up orange face and then over a roof to finish on excellent pockets.

FA: Nick McKinnon & Neil Monteith, 1998

20
23 ** Centrifugal Force Mixed 18m, 4

This beautiful black streaked wall is rarely dry after rain! Rather runout for a sport route and could do with a few more bolts, or a handfull of trad wires. Start as for 'Left Hand Black' to first bolt then bouldery traverse left to jugs. Continue up wall and small roof past a further three bolts. Last ring bolt was placed after first ascent when second ascent took monster whipper. Rap from chains above LHB.

FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 1998

21
20 Sandpit Mixed 20m, 7

The obvious right facing hollow flake crack and pumpy wall right of 'Winged Corpse'. Originally led with only a single bolt and dodgy trad - now it's a retrobolted popular sport warm-up featuring six bolts (of differing styles). Boulder start directly up scoops past FH to chossy ledge, then up flake and wall above.

FA: Neil Monteith & Thomas Wimmer, 1999

22
24 * Ton Steine Scherben Mixed 25m, 5

Novel undercling roof lip traverse with some less than perfect rock (name translates into something like 'some loose rock'). Climbs the lip of the cave right of 'Winged Corpse'. Scramble up ramp to chossy ledge, clip FH then monkey out left and up headwall. Crux is getting from the roof into the small corner via shoulder busting mantle pull. 5 FH's and some optional medium wires for juggy finish. Rap off chain.

FA: Thomas Wimmer (Germany) & Neil Monteith, 1999

23
26 ** Winged Corpse Sport 14m, 6

The home of the 'regular' pocket and an excellent hard climb. Wild overhung steepness through cave on left end of main crag with a dubious enhanced start. Bouldery from start to finish with some very funky moves down low.

FA: Neil Monteith

24
12 HCP Trad 14m
26
18 Lunchbox Legend Trad 14m
27
28
9 Centurion Trad 40m

Classic - if you enjoy the beach. Gain the ledge on the R then move back left to the wide crack. Up the wide crack and then the buttress above on good holds.

FA: Campbell Mercer & Peter Watling, 1995

31
M4 Desert Crack Trad 20m

On the far right side of the chossy cave is a very obvious overhanging finger sandy crack. Aid this using cams to size #1 and some birdbeaks for the top. Might go free at grade 25? Rap off shitty sling.

FA: Neil Monteith (solo), 2000

32
10 BB Trad 30m

Where 'Centurion' finishes is a wide open ledge. 20m to the R

of and slightly up from the top of 'Centurion' is a strong diagonal line formed by the junction of a wall and a slab.(30m to the R

of this route is the huge arch system which can be clearly seen from the road).

FA: Allan Hope & Mike Mulcairn, 1995