Nodes in North Grampians

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Sports and Trad climbing in a pleasant setting.

Update (Campground Boulders): As of April 2019, the landowner of the area which the campground boulders sits in has retracted permission for climbing at Campground Boulders. They cited rubbish and climbers not respecting the boundary to the remainder of their property as reasons for the closure. They may reopen access in future.

The straight up problem off the slot and edge.

Same start as previous problem but head right through the twin pockets then up through twin edges and top out.

Long deadpoint to slopey crimp from slopey pockets.

Starts with the same moves as Inspector Gadget then head out left to crimp rail & finish up at Ultra Deluxe

Starts right of 'Inspector Gadget'. Sharp pocket (LH) to slopey edge, then pocket to jug. 2016 guidebook grade

An eliminate dyno from the slopey crimps (LH one with prominent thumb catch)straight to the letterbox slot (right of 'The Claw').

Up through undercling and along the lip to surprisingly difficult mantle.

Starts left of 'Butt Gravity'. Sit start up on the ledge with the large pocket on the vague arete and make a big move into the huge slot. Make further big moves through the lip, then head right through the huecos following the obvious line leading to a top-out up and right. Has a reputation for being hard for the grade, particularly if you are short.

Follow 'Silly Putty' to the lip, then head directly up through juggy flakes.

Sit start low under the roof matching a slot, then out to a pocket, crimp, then BIG move up and left to a good 4-finger pocket. Join 'Silly Putty' at the top. Sharp.

Link up of 'Butt Gravity' into Race Eater Variant.

As for 'Happy Camper' but keep traversing leftwards to join 'Butt Gravity' and finish up that problem. Crux is the big move to the 4-finger pocket (on 'Butt Gravity').

Climb NSAM to the traverseline, then head left along the line of small crimps. Completely finger size dependant. Watch your back. 2016 guidebook grading

As per Grampians bouldering guide.

Start as for 'Butt Gravity' but head directly out to traverseline of Race Eater. Traverse right all the way to the start of 'NSAM' and finish up this.

Sit start in big hueco (as for Happy Camper & Race Eater), then head straight out to letterbox slot and sloper. Dyno to good hold. Topout's not as easy as it seems... Arguably about as hard as 'Silly Putty'.

Start as for the original problem then head left and up through the sloper and edge. Rarely done.

Sit start 3m left of 'No Sex After Mushrooms'. Up to double pocket and beyond.

Start as for 'NSAM' to seam then traverse and finish up 'Boundary'

This and the next 4 problems are located on a separate boulder less than 1 minutes walk away (facing out) from NSWM, just before the 'Butthole Surfer' Cave.

Sit start with the a left edge and right hand pocket and head straight through the roof via a slopey rail followed by a big move to a deep pocket. Make another big move to the good edge on the lip, then directly up for the jugs.

The RH line. Starts on a hold below the sloper traverse line then gains this and heads right via some small crimps, slopers to eventually finish up the V1.

Uhuru channel

Update (Campground Boulders): As of April 2019, the landowner of the area which the campground boulders sits in has retracted permission for climbing at Campground Boulders. They cited rubbish and climbers not respecting the boundary to the remainder of their property as reasons for the closure. They may reopen access in future.

Start as for the 'Unnamed' V1 then keep traversing the break leftwards to finish up Ross's Problem.

Sit start right of 'Gay Hip Flexor' and traverse left a few moves, then up on jugs through the groove to finish. A couple of fun variants exist straight through the roof here as well.

A few meters on from the 'Hip Flexor Boulder'.

A variation within the Butthole Cave. Starts just left of 'Butthole Surfer', then heads directly out through the roof in the direction of the No Sex With Mushrooms boulder.

Another variation within the Butthole Cave. Starts as for 'Minus', then bisects the 'Worm Saloon' traverseline via a big move out to the lip.

This and the next 4 problems are located on the raised ledge of the 'Butthole Surfer' Cave, within view of 'Gay Hip Flexor' down and to the left.

Low roof starting with a sit-start on a terrace and heading directly out to the lip and up overhanging face.

Liting

The very dangerous problem just right of 'Butthole Surfer' and climbing out to the obvious pockets on the overhanging face above and bad landing (the drop off the terrace).

A gourmet for sure, starts on an obvious rail, finishes on top. two small crimps lead up the center of the face, and a big move to the jug/lip. simple and sweet

Sit start with sidepull and pocket. Move up and Lt to sharp crimps. Top out left of block on top.

Sit start with side pull and pockets. Desperately to small crimps then dyno to lip when falling off.

Sit start at lip on LHS of cave and up left side on good holds

Start at back of cave and head out through roof on LHS to finish up.

Same start as connection through roof to hard mantle with pocket over low lip at side of cave.

Franz

The direct to Da-Lai-Lahmung going straight up from the big pocket via a big move and topping out.

Hiroshi channel

Beta dependant. Standing start. Up to poor pocket, then big move up to large pocket. Re-arrange the hands, then out right to the intermediate edge, then big span (or trickery) out to the jug on the arete. Match this and motor up on more jugs to top-out.

Hiroshi

Update (Campground Boulders): As of April 2019, the landowner of the area which the campground boulders sits in has retracted permission for climbing at Campground Boulders. They cited rubbish and climbers not respecting the boundary to the remainder of their property as reasons for the closure. They may reopen access in future.

This problem is located on a seperate boulder behind the Da Lai Lahmung area. It takes the major line from a sit start then through the roof.

The laziest climbing option in the Grampians? The two minute walk-in is sure to attract the sort of climber who enjoys a sleep in, a siesta and an afternoon nap before bed time. This lozenge shaped outcrop would be useful for beginner to intermediate climbing instruction as it is within easy walking distance from the campsite, is about 12 metres high, has several good routes on reasonable rock offering natural protection, can be set up for abseiling, and can be down climbed at about grade 6 (about 2 metres right of the north arête on the west side). This pillar is now totally climbed out – don't even think about contriving a new route!

The descent ropute. Easy corner nearest the carpark. Colin Mibus used this route for ascent/descent eons ago with his .22 to frighten bunnies.

Climb up left edge of smooth grey wall on the west side (approximately 4m from north arête) through left end of overhangs to finish via right hand of two cracks.

Start in middle of west side and climb up slab and through weakness of main overhang (using hold up right) and finish through projecting shelf at top.

6m right of Automatic Runway. Through the overhang and up the corner. Marke dby high white square.

Start at 'Ghoulies' on the west side (1.5m left from the south arête) but move to the right through the middle and top bulges.

Easy start of the climb to smoothish round overhang, climb directly up, placing climb just left of Casper. Placements are scarce til high so the risk of a deck fall is high temporarily. Was originally done with only nuts and slings, hence the name. The last few metres are made a lot less risky with cams, but it's also an easy top out.

The hardest route here. Climb up just right of south arête to thin crack.

Summerday-style classic. Six metres right of 'Ghoulies'. Juggy line with the left kink at the end.

Crack on wall on east side approximately 4m left of north arête.

Don't know the original name.

Start left of the cave and climb over it to the right. Get into the overhanging bit and get through it using jugs on the left. Topping out is a bit tricky.

Getting full value from limited resources! Circumnavigate the outcrop starting up Automatic Runway and following the break at mid-height going anticlockwise to the south arête (belay possible here) and continuing around to the start. Going clockwise looks feasible too and may be better.

Route with single FH right of Spirits in the Sky.

A PV Designated Crag

A PV Designated Crag

North and approximately 45m directly uphill from the Mini 'Castle Crag' is this wall. This corner climb is situated about 12m right of the large cave. Marked by white square.

Small featured wall on left side of track about 100m past Mini 'Castle Crag' on the walk in to 'Sentinel Cave'. These are short trad routes on good rock. Topropes are easy to setup. Afternoon sun.

Easy line just left of Crimps of Doom, starts under flake feature a few metres left of arete. Straight up to prominent flake then up on jugs, finishing at highest point on wall. Good pro.

Face around corner 2m left of 'Rohans Route', a few balancy crimp moves gets you to the top.

A hard and bold mantle at the start reaches jugs (crux) and easy hauling to top.

Nice climbing up an attractive line. Follow orange corner to top.

Same start as for 'Gormet', only stepping onto thin face after reaching first block, then following the break on left-hand side of face.

Best access to top as well as an easy down climb.

Located on wall right of main 'Warden Wall'. Climb straight up from slight scoop in the wall 2m from right-hand end. Short climbers will need to use dynamic technique.

A very small gritstone-like crag with limited quality climbing. Can be padded out with some of the other smaller crags in the area to make a good day out.

Scramble around the bottom of the broken buttresses for about 50 metres to an undercut, leaning stack. The steep southwest arête.

Five metres left of the chimney. A nice short corner to a ledge. 'Escape' off right or thrutch up a wide crack to top.

Three metres right of the chimney. The steep crack through the bulge at the top.

Five metres right of 'Aware'. The steep right facing flake crack.

On the eastern face on the other side of the block directly over from 'Aware'. Starts in a small alcove. The narrow, left leaning crack that finishes the semi-circular break in the top overhang.

The right hand rib of the chimney.

Home of the gritty sloper and the quick pump! A small, gently overhung amphitheater of rock with a couple of good Blue Mountains style sport routes. The orange wall is clearly visible on the hillside when driving in from the west past the olive grove. Pack a handful of draws and some forearms.

Shade until 2pm in summer. Most routes stay dry in light showers - but after extended rain the seepage drains down 'Little George' and 'Ranger Danger'.

Far left most route. Start direct under the first bolt at grade 21, or climb in from the left at 20. A tricky mantle in the middle spoils the pumpy slopy fun. Five RBs and lower-off. Be wary of the last few metres, the jugs are a bit too big for comfort.

Cracked bolt has now been replaced (2022). Possibly the best route at the Guardhouse. Wave to the scout hoards at Staplyton Campground as you pull to glory through the ceiling. Located on left side of wall. Reachy orange goodness to start to reach prominent roof cave. Over roof and up right side of subtle arête to final juggy wall. 5 UBs and double UB lower-off.

A punchy start (sandbag?) leads to a sustained finish through and around the roof. Stick clip the first bolt, then four more to the anchors.

3rd bolted line from the left: RB then FH then RBs the rest of the way.

Short punchy number. The 4th bolted route from the left with the white stained scoop in the middle. Up slopers to roof heuco. Over this on incuts then one final tough move to jugs. Chain anchor. 4 RBs.

Named after George the baby gecko, that hitched a ride on a backpack all the way to Brunswick... causing havoc at Jac's place for two weeks before being returned to the Grampians! Follows left-trending line of four ringbolts in centre of crag just right of big scoopy hueco in rooflet. Stroll through delicate start just left of first bolt, locate the secret hold at second bolt, and march your way to glory over steep juggy terrain. It can be extremely difficult to put a draw on the third bolt because the ring is recessed quite deeply (it depends on what type of 'biner you use, some skinny ones go on easily, others are impossible). Double RB lower off.

Weaves around black streak on far right side of main wall. Bouldery start up slopers and slots to easier ground. At halfway head slightly right to rest stance then up past RB and crux dyno. Finish up steep jugs. Five RBs and DRB lower-off.

A good warmup before heading up to the terrace. Starts left of Fractionally Flamed and follows the juggy steepness. 5RBs and rings to lower.

Sandy slopers. Starts back at ground level and 40m right of the main wall. White clean streak on otherwise juggy grey wall. A tad runout for the inexperienced. 3 RBs and lower-off.

Start off big slopey pocket, head up trending riight to anchors shared with My Body is a Cage. Can be wet after rain

Start off block, head left under 2 bolt along tricky rail a up and back right to jug and 3rd bolt, head up to anchors shared with Tech Noir

A boulder cave 30m north of Sentinel Cave crag with only one established boulder.

Crouch start on low pocket-jug and raised edge. Move through roof pockets to good holds higher up. Traverse lip to mantle finish.

A rare cave climbing area that is outside of an SPA. One of the more popular 'dry in any weather' venues for the mid grade sport climber. This is a large cave high up in the valley behind Stapylton campground with an easy flat walk-in. This area features short and very steep sport routes on coarse orange rock. A large viewing area makes this a fun place to hang out with a bunch of mates and watch the sun set whilst cranking some of the sweet routes. Be very careful on the access traverse into the cave, one slip and you're dead. In wet weather it is advised to rope up for the scramble traverse into the cave and exit by abseiling back out of the cave.

Beware the fixed line has a pretty bad core shot. Be careful.

Crag gets late afternoon sun in summer and full sun from midday in winter.

First line of bolts, to the left of the start of the access traverse.

Link up. Climb Easier Puzzle and after the fourth bolt trend up and left to join Green Moon at the fourth bolt.

Originally a trad route retrofitted with 4RBs some time prior to 2015. Takes the middle of the three warm up lines at the start of the fixed rope. Finish at anchors for HSHM.

Steep and juggy sport warm-up at the far left end of the cave. Starts halfway across the approach traverse at single u-bolt belay. Up through orange jugs and then grey cracked face. Runout between bolt 1 and 2 is a bit scary.

Good pumpy workout on nice orange rock. Starts at left end of cave at small well chalked rooflet. Stick-clip first bolt. Out left across crux roof past two RB's then up scoops on jugs (2 RB's) to good rest. Step right and thug through steep territory past final RB to jugs and DRB lower-off.

An excellent bonus finish to 'Media Puzzle'. From double ringbolts monkey upside down on jugs out right along the horizontal break for 4m past 2 extra FH's then up to chains (crux).

November 2016 - first FH on extension is loose!

A long scary trad traverse from the fourth bolt on 'Media Puzzle' across to the first bolt in the roof on 'Antics'. The middle of the traverse is very un-protected, with ground fall potential very likely.

A bit stupid. Starts 2m right of Media Puzzle - up a few metres then traverse left to join MP. Climb all the way to top of cave. Ignore bolt out left Bolted by Monty in the dark ages.

Short and brutal in true Nowra fashion. A direct start to 'Antics'. Starts 10m right of Media Puzzle at ground level. Three FH's. Either lower off first bolt on 'Antics' or continue outwards for the full grade 26 finish.

Anyone say girdle? A scuttling novelty route across a big roof. Originally attempted on trad – but after Neil pulled a huge block off the lip and plummeted headfirst onto the halfway ledge it was decided to bolt it. Climb to first bolt on 'Stepping on Snakes', traverse left across 'Army of Ants' to big ledge. Walk left across this to FH and keep going across line (big cams) to roof flake (FH). Out impressive 3m roof and up steep arete past RB to lower off bolts.

Line of FHs through roof left of 'Antics'. Start as for MD. 2 boulders broken by no hands rest. Bolted by Monty in 2004.