Routes as trad in Centurion Walls

Where 'Centurion' finishes is a wide open ledge. 20m to the R of and slightly up from the top of 'Centurion' is a strong diagonal line formed by the junction of a wall and a slab.(30m to the R of this route is the huge arch system which can be clearly seen from the road).

On the far right side of the chossy cave is a very obvious overhanging finger sandy crack. Aid this using cams to size #1 and some birdbeaks for the top. Might go free at grade 25? Rap off shitty sling.

This now goes free at grade 27, will become super classic trad crack test price. Probably the best true finger crack in the grampians.

Gear 0.1 to 0.5 bd x4

Classic - if you enjoy the beach. Gain the ledge on the R then move back left to the wide crack. Up the wide crack and then the buttress above on good holds.

NRNR is possibly AA because it has the same length & grade and is listed after LL in the Chockstone guide.

Start 25m R of the LH end of the cliff just to the right of the first large orange overhang. Start at the LH end of the scoop. Up diagonally Right through the scoop and across black wall to RH prow. Up.

Start 10m left of HCP. Straight up crack and then follow through steepening above. Hard bouldery start and disconcerting finish.

About 40m left of fixed rope in scoop. Up scoop to ledge. Traverse L 3m up crack to roof. Out right and up wall.

A Hyper-classic Choss Pile? Up black wall left of MM and then V groove above

Novel undercling roof lip traverse with some less than perfect rock (name translates into something like 'some loose rock'). Climbs the lip of the cave right of 'Winged Corpse'. Scramble up ramp to chossy ledge, clip FH then monkey out left and up headwall. Crux is getting from the roof into the small corner via shoulder busting mantle pull. 5 FH's and some optional medium wires for juggy finish. Rap off chain.

Rarely repeated, which is a shame as this excellent steep wall and roof has some good moves. Ramble up the uninspiring start of 'Shades of Black' to the bird shit stained ledge at about 15m height. Hand traverse left here and head up pocketed wall past a FH to under big roof. 'Monkey' across this past another FH to finish. Bring medium wires, cams and slings.

A clearer shade of choss? The first route done on the cliff. 'Steep' bold climbing on outrageous holds and quite a bit of bird shit. Starts at very small section of "brain" like rock at right hand end of small white cave about 30m right of 'Left Hand Black'. Straight up to left hand side of buttress. Up flake on left then up and right to top of buttress. Straight up wall above.

A nice feature spoilt by a scary start and less than great rock. Take the steep right hand arete of the small buttress just right of 'Shades of Black'. Scramble in to start across choss from the right. Up arete steeply to the ledge and then up face above on jugs. To avoid rope drag you can split this into two short pitches.

Looks appalling. Even ten bolts wouldn't make this safe. Up the centre of the black streak 10m left of 'Killer Wolf' through two overhangs and finishing up right of the small bush at two thirds height.

Interesting wall climbing with much suspect rock. Starts about 10m right of Pining for the Fiords (7m L of KK) at the left most black streak that reaches the ground (flows out of a small wind blown scoop immediately left of a large pile of boulders). Up 4m to the small bush on right. Traverse left for 4m along the break then straight up the wall above to finish just left of the dead tree at the top of the cliff.

The scene of several tantrums by strong climbers, this one is famous for a forearm pump from hell on the traverse. One of the better easier routes at the crag although it seeps heavily after rain and the finish can be sandy. 'The scoop' and roof flake about 10m right of 'Lexicon'. Into small cave (FH), roof flake (medium cams) to small stance and FH. Head left on jugs past fixed chain on RB then straight up to double rings. The direct finish straight up from second FH is a good looking open project.

Left hand variant to the Compressor route. Absorbing and powerful sport climbing up nice orange rock. Climb Compressor Route to fifth RB. Step left under block (RB) and fire up excellent wall above (three RB’s) with some nice big pockets to DRB loweroff

Rarely repeated. A long route with a sting in the tail. Climb past BR and broken rock into scoop, then very bouldery move left across cave. At sixth ring bolt go right and direct up face past limestone like large pocket and micro edges through bulge. 9 RBs and chain lower off.

Wandery climbing on great rock. As for 'Compressor Route' to sixth bolt, then shuffle right along horizontal for a few moves (2 rings) to no hands rest in slot. Straight up a few moves to twin pocket jugs then hard right (ignore high ring) to break and good cam slot. Up again on pockets to jugs and pumpy conclusion past last ring to double ring lower off. Extend runners to avoid rope drag. Should be rebolted and straightened out.

Old guard route with powerful climbing through steep territory. Start about 10m left of 'Psychotic' Episode. Climb orange and black striped rock to first overhang. Traverse 3m L then up steeply until a traverse line leads back R between more overhangs. Committing moves over the next overhang lead to a dark red patch of rock and a hanging corner/weakness. Up this and finish out right of the summit roof.

Crack traverse. Start up Kublai Khan for four metres then begin the never ending overhu ng hand-traverse right on superb stone to end at Psychotic Episode's ring bolts. Bring every cam you own up to size 4, and lots of slings. Add a few grades if you pump out easily!

Up 'Psychotic' Episode to second bolt. Traverse left along

horizontal, bust through roof (crux - 28?) and onwards up leftt to top. Needs more bolts at finish.

Super classic overhung orange wall - mostly bolts but a couple of cams are needed in the middle.

Sandbag one move wonder. Starts the same as 'Progressive Happy House'. Move up on big horizontals for 7m . Traverse left for 3m and up to another good slot. Dyno crux then up wall to belay tree. Rap off tree to descend.

Named after the Malvern Road, Prahran share house that lasted 10 years. The best of the easy trad routes of the cliff. Head diagonally

right on big horizontal breaks to vertical reachy transition. Up easily to top and tree belay. Bring lots of cams. Rap off tree above Push It Upstairs.