Route Grade Style Popularity
1
Mission to Mars Variant (1b)
Start as for 'Rollmop ' in 'Abseil Gully ' and up the slab just right of the wide crack for 5 metres or so then out left onto the wall left of 'Rollmop ' and up the line to the horizontal fault of the first belay of 'Mission To Mars '.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Jeremy Boreham, 1993
15
Trad 30m
2
Mission to Mars
Every pitch is good, with the third being particularly intimidating.
Takes the slab and flakes 15 metres right of where the track meets the cliff, 5 metres left of 'Abseil Gully '.
30m (20) The grey slab past 2 bolts to base of shallow, right-facing corner at 12 metres. Up to horizontal traverse line coming in from right and move right 3-4 metres to belay.
30m (22) Move back left to the line and go up until the corner ends at a small roof. Swing around left onto the slab and DBB.
20m (22) Step up right, then straight up steeply until 5-6 metres above belay and the first runners in horizontal. Tend right and up to gain the rising left line. Follow this line around the bulge to the ramp and easier ground above.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Jeremy Boreham, 1993
22
Trad 80m
3
Mission to Mars Variant (1a)
Esay line 5 metres left of 1st pitch to base of shallow corner.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Jeremy Boreham, 1995
11
Trad 12m
4
Nostalgia / Up, Up and Away
First pitch is excellent and many parties abseil from that point. The route 'Up, Up and Away' was essentially a repeat of this climb. Start : 10 metres above ground-level where the track first meets the cliff are 2 gumtrees. Belay at the right-hand tree.
40m (18) Up past blig blocks and flakes then thin groove up wall above to belay just next to gumtree.
27m (17) Shift the belay a few metres left behind the big flake to below the right-hand of two crack-lines.Climb this crack then make a leftward rising traverse past the arete. Step around this arete to base of a big chimney.
12m (17) Up the right-hand line in the chimney-gully and up a short, overhanging jam crack
FA: Greg Lovejoy, Andrew Moore, 1990
18
Trad 84m
5
Neck Romancer
Be warned that pitch 2 has a very long (25m) runout and a dodgy piton runner has to be placed on lead on the crux pitch.
Start at the left of two flake-lines about 15 metres left of where the track meets the cliff.
15m (20) Flake and slab past a bolt to ledge and BB .
42m (17) Up left from belay for about 8 metres, past bolt at 4 metres then traverse right to below the prominent left-hand crack. Up crack and traverse right to belay behind big detached flake.
28m (21) Traverse back left to base of left-hand crack. Up this (peg runner needed but not in place. FA hand-placed and tied-off a long-dong nut tool), passing the bulge above on its left side. Up face next to arete to roof, step left around arete to belay on the ledge above the corner.
12m Finish as for 'Nostalgia '
FA: Nicky Sunderland (1,4), Kevin Lindorff (2,3) and Mike Wust, David Jurke, 1990
FFA: Kevin Lindorff, 1990
21
Trad 110m
6
Guillotine
Cliff-splitting chimney on left side of grey wall. about 30 metres left of where the track hits the cliff.
FA: Michael Stone, Geoff Gledhill, 1970
13
Trad 110m
7
Squeeze Box
Corner on other side of buttress, about 18 metres left of 'Guillotine '.
13
Trad 100m
8
Queen Bee
35m (10)
25m (10)
20m (15)
15m (12)
FA: Michael Stone, Geoff Gledhill (alts), 1970
15
Trad 100m
9
The Bumble Variant
10
Trad 50m
10
Sweet Thing
Climbs fragile face between Beeline and Bumble Variant. Climb wall almost anywhere until roof, which is taken at the obvious notch. Continue directly past blank bit to a good ledge. Abseil off horn.
FA: James Falla, Debbie Sweet, Jon Bassindale, 1999
14
Trad 45m
11
Beeline
12
Trad 91m
12
Hornet
17
Trad 45m
13
Kabana Direct Start
16
Trad 15m
14
Kabana Variant
13
Trad 45m
15
Kabana
11
Trad 100m
16
Guacamole
17
Trad 70m
17
Dreaming Arete Direct
14
Trad 67m
18
Dreaming Arete
14
Trad 82m
19
Ke Bab Alternate First Pitch
6
Trad 18m
20
Ke Bab
10
Trad 73m
21
Aerospace
24
Trad 87m
22
Procrastination
Varied and sustained climbing. A 5-inch cam is useful at the technical crux even though it's not an off-width move and multiple 4-inch cams are handy on the wide flake. 40 metre abseil from top of flake. Best to lower the ropes inside the crack and start the abseil down the crack - throwing the ropes over the outside of the flake risks them catching on the opposite buttress and lands you in the middle of the unpleasant vegetation at the foot of the gully
18
Trad 82m
23
Strutting Through the Stratosphere
15m (22)
35m (22)
25m (-)
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Tony Marian, 1990
22
Trad 75m
24
Vee Line
Great, sustained first pitch. If you enjoy caving keep going, otherwise full 30m rappel (watch rope-ends!)
17
Trad 73m
25
Deception Gully
Worthless gully 6 metres left of 'Vee Line '.
8
Trad 64m
26
Whipped Cream Direct Start
12
Trad
27
Whipped Cream
10
Trad 74m
28
Ravenous Intent
Start immediately right of 'Entree Direct Start' and use tree to gain face via tricky move then up wall above
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Jeremy Boreham (in winiter), 1983
21
Trad 20m
29
Entrée Direct Start
22
Trad 18m
30
Pilgrims Progress
11
Trad 60m
31
Entrée
9
Trad 61m
32
The Hard Days Night
FA: Geoff Gledhill & Alen Glenhill, 1970
11 M4
Aid 76m
33
Bolt Out of the Blue
21
Trad 27m
34
Feline
The right-facing corner 18 metres left of 'The Hard Days Night '.
15
Trad 46m
35
Feline Variant Finish
10
Trad
36
Birthday Suit
16
Trad 70m
37
Plead for Me
Remarkably overhung off-width chimney a few metres left of 'Birthday Suit '
FA: Charles Creese, Peter Watling, 1987
18
Trad 15m
38
He Who Walks Through Shallow Water
Good fun steep wall climbing.
Start: Start approximately 200m left of Strutting Through The Stratosphere and about 150m left of the big roof that marks the aid route Hard Day's Night at an attractive looking orange & black wall above a white arrow on the walking track.
FA: Josef Goding, Simon Pateman, 2001
21
Trad 15m
39
Gale Force
Start: Shares the start of 'He who walks through shallow water ' until #9 nut, then traverses left past steep thin moves past 3rd FH into scoop. Up and left out of this to easier ground and DBB. Move right on large ledge to Abseil station. Not as sustained as 'He who walks through shallow water '
FA: Josef Goding, Simon Pateman, 2001
21
Trad 16m
40
Top Access
Hard to see why anyone would bother.
Start at rap anchor of 'He who walks through Shallow Water '. Move left about 6-8 metres along large ledge to obvious crack around 2-3m from far LH end. up this with difficulty to very easy ground above.
30
Trad 18m
41
Dead Calm
Follow the main track for about 5-600m past 'Gale Force ' until about 30-50 metres past the creek. Takes left-hand side of prominent. 5 FH and1ring (sticking way out),
lead right through steep moves until you reach the easier face
above (lots of natural pro). DBB/rings lower off Approx 25m to ground.
FA: Joe Goding, Graham Holden, 2001
21
Trad 30m