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You can locate this cliff using our mobile app!

Dowload our Android app, then when you are standing next to the cliff, navigate to the cliff page in the app and click on the cross hairs at the top of the screen. The app will work out your geolocation and send it to the server. Voila you have now earnt Karma points and helped build a better resource.

Description

Some excellent trad climbing but there's unfortunately a lot of choss among the good stuff. As the cliff is reached near it's right-hand side, climbs have been organised from right-to-left.

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 17 September 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

In January 2014 a large bushfire swept through the Northern Grampians causing widespread damage to visitor sites, roads and walking tracks. Many popular rockclimbing and bouldering sites were also impacted including Hollow Mountain, Summerday Valley and Mt Stapylton.

The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Recently, Parks Victoria, volunteers and contractors completed recovery projects within rock climbing areas to reinstate damaged walking trails, realign rock climbing access and replace directional signage.

As of Saturday 20th September access will once again be available to rock climbing and bouldering areas within the Stapylton Amphitheatre in addition to those already available in the Flat Rock area. The access track from Flat Rock has been realigned into Grey and Green Walls and to Taipan wall. Please follow these new alignments and refrain from walking off track.

Open Rock Climbing and Bouldering Areas in the Northern Grampians:

  • Central Buttress
  • Grey & Green Walls
  • Taipan Wall (Upper and Lower)
  • Spurt Wall
  • Epsilon Wall
  • Trackside Bouldering area
  • Snakepit
  • Wildsides
  • Spurt and Afterglow

Closures remain in place at all other Northern Grampians Climbing and Bouldering sites for the time being, including Summerday Valley, Andersons, The kindergarten, Van Diemens Land and Cut Lunch Walls. Stapylton Campground also remains closed. Plantation Campground is the closest, open campground.

Parks Victoria will continue to assess damage and undertake recovery works over the coming months. Updates will be posted as re-openings occur. Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on anyone found in any closed, fire affected areas.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parks.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Flat Rock
  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:
  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Approach

Follow the walking track up from Trooper's Creek campsite, past the 'Wind Cave' then more steeply to reach the cliff just left of 'Nostalgia'

Descent Notes

The easiest descent from the top of the cliff is at the left end. Follow the cliff-top to the waterfall and descend this via terraces on the left (facing out) to the tourist track.

At the right-hand end locating the gully beside the Epaminondas buttress is tricky. Abseil Gully, despite the name, is not a good descent option and it is also not easy to locate from above.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Areas

Add subarea(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
Wind Cave Sector
5
0
10m
Abseil Gully Sector
7
7
25m

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
3

Start as for 'Rollmop' in 'Abseil Gully' and up the slab just right of the wide crack for 5 metres or so then out left onto the wall left of 'Rollmop' and up the line to the horizontal fault of the first belay of 'Mission To Mars'.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Jeremy Boreham, 1993

4
22 *** Mission to Mars Trad 80m

Every pitch is good, with the third being particularly intimidating. Takes the slab and flakes 15 metres right of where the track meets the cliff, 5 metres left of 'Abseil Gully'.

  1. 30m (20) The grey slab past 2 bolts to base of shallow, right-facing corner at 12 metres. Up to horizontal traverse line coming in from right and move right 3-4 metres to belay.

  2. 30m (22) Move back left to the line and go up until the corner ends at a small roof. Swing around left onto the slab and DBB.

  3. 20m (22) Step up right, then straight up steeply until 5-6 metres above belay and the first runners in horizontal. Tend right and up to gain the rising left line. Follow this line around the bulge to the ramp and easier ground above.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Jeremy Boreham, 1993

5

Esay line 5 metres left of 1st pitch to base of shallow corner.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Jeremy Boreham, 1995

6

First pitch is excellent and many parties abseil from that point. The route 'Up, Up and Away' was essentially a repeat of this climb. Start : 10 metres above ground-level where the track first meets the cliff are 2 gumtrees. Belay at the right-hand tree.

  1. 40m (18) Up past blig blocks and flakes then thin groove up wall above to belay just next to gumtree.

  2. 27m (17) Shift the belay a few metres left behind the big flake to below the right-hand of two crack-lines.Climb this crack then make a leftward rising traverse past the arete. Step around this arete to base of a big chimney.

  3. 12m (17) Up the right-hand line in the chimney-gully and up a short, overhanging jam crack

FA: Greg Lovejoy, Andrew Moore, 1990

7
21 * Neck Romancer Trad 110m

Be warned that pitch 2 has a very long (25m) runout and a dodgy piton runner has to be placed on lead on the crux pitch. Start at the left of two flake-lines about 15 metres left of where the track meets the cliff.

  1. 15m (20) Flake and slab past a bolt to ledge and BB.

  2. 42m (17) Up left from belay for about 8 metres, past bolt at 4 metres then traverse right to below the prominent left-hand crack. Up crack and traverse right to belay behind big detached flake.

  3. 28m (21) Traverse back left to base of left-hand crack. Up this (peg runner needed but not in place. FA hand-placed and tied-off a long-dong nut tool), passing the bulge above on its left side. Up face next to arete to roof, step left around arete to belay on the ledge above the corner.

  4. 12m Finish as for 'Nostalgia'

FA: Nicky Sunderland (1,4), Kevin Lindorff (2,3) and Mike Wust, David Jurke, 1990

FFA: Kevin Lindorff, 1990

8
13 Guillotine Trad 110m

Cliff-splitting chimney on left side of grey wall. about 30 metres left of where the track hits the cliff.

FA: Michael Stone, Geoff Gledhill, 1970

9
13 Squeeze Box Trad 100m

Corner on other side of buttress, about 18 metres left of 'Guillotine'.

10
15 * Queen Bee Trad 100m
  1. 35m (10)

  2. 25m (10)

  3. 20m (15)

  4. 15m (12)

FA: Michael Stone, Geoff Gledhill (alts), 1970

11
10 * The Bumble Variant Trad 50m
12
14 Sweet Thing Trad 45m

Climbs fragile face between Beeline and Bumble Variant. Climb wall almost anywhere until roof, which is taken at the obvious notch. Continue directly past blank bit to a good ledge. Abseil off horn.

FA: James Falla, Debbie Sweet, Jon Bassindale, 1999

13
12 * Beeline Trad 91m
14
17 Hornet Trad 45m
15
16
13 Kabana Variant Trad 45m
17
11 * Kabana Trad 100m
18
17 Guacamole Trad 70m
20
14 Dreaming Arete Trad 82m
22
10 Ke Bab Trad 73m
23
24 * Aerospace Trad 87m
24
18 * Procrastination Trad 82m

Varied and sustained climbing. A 5-inch cam is useful at the technical crux even though it's not an off-width move and multiple 4-inch cams are handy on the wide flake. 40 metre abseil from top of flake. Best to lower the ropes inside the crack and start the abseil down the crack - throwing the ropes over the outside of the flake risks them catching on the opposite buttress and lands you in the middle of the unpleasant vegetation at the foot of the gully

25
  1. 15m (22)

  2. 35m (22)

  3. 25m (-)

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Tony Marian, 1990

26
17 * Vee Line Trad 73m

Great, sustained first pitch. If you enjoy caving keep going, otherwise full 30m rappel (watch rope-ends!)

27
8 Deception Gully Trad 64m

Worthless gully 6 metres left of 'Vee Line'.

29
10 * Whipped Cream Trad 74m
30
21 Ravenous Intent Trad 20m

Start immediately right of 'Entree Direct Start' and use tree to gain face via tricky move then up wall above

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Jeremy Boreham (in winiter), 1983

31
32
11 Pilgrims Progress Trad 60m
33
9 Entrée Trad 61m
34
11 M4 The Hard Days Night Aid 76m

FA: Geoff Gledhill & Alen Glenhill, 1970

35
36
15 Feline Trad 46m

The right-facing corner 18 metres left of 'The Hard Days Night'.

38
16 Birthday Suit Trad 70m
39
18 Plead for Me Trad 15m

Remarkably overhung off-width chimney a few metres left of 'Birthday Suit'

FA: Charles Creese, Peter Watling, 1987

40

Good fun steep wall climbing.

Start: Start approximately 200m left of Strutting Through The Stratosphere and about 150m left of the big roof that marks the aid route Hard Day's Night at an attractive looking orange & black wall above a white arrow on the walking track.

FA: Josef Goding, Simon Pateman, 2001

41
21 ** Gale Force Trad 16m

Start: Shares the start of 'He who walks through shallow water' until #9 nut, then traverses left past steep thin moves past 3rd FH into scoop. Up and left out of this to easier ground and DBB. Move right on large ledge to Abseil station. Not as sustained as 'He who walks through shallow water'

FA: Josef Goding, Simon Pateman, 2001

42
30 Top Access Trad 18m

Hard to see why anyone would bother. Start at rap anchor of 'He who walks through Shallow Water'. Move left about 6-8 metres along large ledge to obvious crack around 2-3m from far LH end. up this with difficulty to very easy ground above.

43
21 * Dead Calm Trad 30m

Follow the main track for about 5-600m past 'Gale Force' until about 30-50 metres past the creek. Takes left-hand side of prominent. 5 FH and1ring (sticking way out), lead right through steep moves until you reach the easier face above (lots of natural pro). DBB/rings lower off Approx 25m to ground.

FA: Joe Goding, Graham Holden, 2001