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If you know where this cliff is the please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. Contact us if you have any issues.


Some excellent trad climbing but there's unfortunately a lot of choss among the good stuff. As the cliff is reached near it's right-hand side, climbs have been organised from right-to-left.

Access issues inherited from North Grampians

This area is now reopening after the fires in early 2014

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 17 September 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

In January 2014 a large bushfire swept through the Northern Grampians causing widespread damage to visitor sites, roads and walking tracks. Many popular rockclimbing and bouldering sites were also impacted including Hollow Mountain, Summerday Valley and Mt Stapylton.

The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Recently, Parks Victoria, volunteers and contractors completed recovery projects within rock climbing areas to reinstate damaged walking trails, realign rock climbing access and replace directional signage.

As of Saturday 20th September access will once again be available to rock climbing and bouldering areas within the Stapylton Amphitheatre in addition to those already available in the Flat Rock area. The access track from Flat Rock has been realigned into Grey and Green Walls and to Taipan wall. Please follow these new alignments and refrain from walking off track.

Open Rock Climbing and Bouldering Areas in the Northern Grampians:

  • Central Buttress
  • Grey & Green Walls
  • Taipan Wall (Upper and Lower)
  • Spurt Wall
  • Epsilon Wall
  • Trackside Bouldering area
  • Snakepit
  • Wildsides
  • Spurt and Afterglow

Closures remain in place at all other Northern Grampians Climbing and Bouldering sites for the time being, including Summerday Valley, Andersons, The kindergarten, Van Diemens Land and Cut Lunch Walls. Stapylton Campground also remains closed. Plantation Campground is the closest, open campground.

Parks Victoria will continue to assess damage and undertake recovery works over the coming months. Updates will be posted as re-openings occur. Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on anyone found in any closed, fire affected areas.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Flat Rock
  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:
  • Stapylton Amphitheatre
  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you


Follow the walking track up from Trooper's Creek campsite, past the 'Wind Cave' then more steeply to reach the cliff just left of 'Nostalgia'

Descent Notes

The easiest descent from the top of the cliff is at the left end. Follow the cliff-top to the waterfall and descend this via terraces on the left (facing out) to the tourist track.

At the right-hand end locating the gully beside the Epaminondas buttress is tricky. Abseil Gully, despite the name, is not a good descent option and it is also not easy to locate from above.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Wind Cave Sector
Abseil Gully Sector


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Grade Route

Start as for 'Rollmop' in 'Abseil Gully' and up the slab just right of the wide crack for 5 metres or so then out left onto the wall left of 'Rollmop' and up the line to the horizontal fault of the first belay of 'Mission To Mars'.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Jeremy Boreham, 1993

22 *** Mission to Mars Trad 80m 3

Every pitch is good, with the third being particularly intimidating. Takes the slab and flakes 15 metres right of where the track meets the cliff, 5 metres left of 'Abseil Gully'.

  1. 30m (20) The grey slab past 2 bolts to base of shallow, right-facing corner at 12 metres. Up to horizontal traverse line coming in from right and move right 3-4 metres to belay.

  2. 30m (22) Move back left to the line and go up until the corner ends at a small roof. Swing around left onto the slab and DBB.

  3. 20m (22) Step up right, then straight up steeply until 5-6 metres above belay and the first runners in horizontal. Tend right and up to gain the rising left line. Follow this line around the bulge to the ramp and easier ground above.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Jeremy Boreham, 1993


Esay line 5 metres left of 1st pitch to base of shallow corner.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Jeremy Boreham, 1995


First pitch is excellent and many parties abseil from that point. The route 'Up, Up and Away' was essentially a repeat of this climb. Start : 10 metres above ground-level where the track first meets the cliff are 2 gumtrees. Belay at the right-hand tree.

  1. 40m (18) Up past blig blocks and flakes then thin groove up wall above to belay just next to gumtree.

  2. 27m (17) Shift the belay a few metres left behind the big flake to below the right-hand of two crack-lines.Climb this crack then make a leftward rising traverse past the arete. Step around this arete to base of a big chimney.

  3. 12m (17) Up the right-hand line in the chimney-gully and up a short, overhanging jam crack

FA: Greg Lovejoy & Andrew Moore, 1990

21 * Neck Romancer Trad 110m 4

Be warned that pitch 2 has a very long (25m) runout and a dodgy piton runner has to be placed on lead on the crux pitch. Start at the left of two flake-lines about 15 metres left of where the track meets the cliff.

  1. 15m (20) Flake and slab past a bolt to ledge and BB.

  2. 42m (17) Up left from belay for about 8 metres, past bolt at 4 metres then traverse right to below the prominent left-hand crack. Up crack and traverse right to belay behind big detached flake.

  3. 28m (21) Traverse back left to base of left-hand crack. Up this (peg runner needed but not in place. FA hand-placed and tied-off a long-dong nut tool), passing the bulge above on its left side. Up face next to arete to roof, step left around arete to belay on the ledge above the corner.

  4. 12m Finish as for 'Nostalgia'

FA: Nicky Sunderland (1, 4), Kevin Lindorff (2, 3), Mike Wust & David Jurke, 1990

FFA: Kevin Lindorff, 1990

13 Guillotine Trad 110m

Cliff-splitting chimney on left side of grey wall. about 30 metres left of where the track hits the cliff.

FA: Michael Stone & Geoff Gledhill, 1970

13 Squeeze Box Trad 100m

Corner on other side of buttress, about 18 metres left of 'Guillotine'.

15 * Queen Bee Trad 100m 4
  1. 35m (10)

  2. 25m (10)

  3. 20m (15)

  4. 15m (12)

FA: Michael Stone & Geoff Gledhill (alts), 1970

10 * The Bumble Variant Trad 50m
14 Sweet Thing Trad 45m

Climbs fragile face between Beeline and Bumble Variant. Climb wall almost anywhere until roof, which is taken at the obvious notch. Continue directly past blank bit to a good ledge. Abseil off horn.

FA: James Falla, Debbie Sweet & Jon Bassindale, 1999

12 * Beeline Trad 91m
17 Hornet Trad 45m
13 Kabana Variant Trad 45m
11 * Kabana Trad 100m
17 Guacamole Trad 70m
14 Dreaming Arete Trad 82m
10 Ke Bab Trad 73m
24 * Aerospace Trad 87m
18 * Procrastination Trad 82m

Varied and sustained climbing. A 5-inch cam is useful at the technical crux even though it's not an off-width move and multiple 4-inch cams are handy on the wide flake. 40 metre abseil from top of flake. Best to lower the ropes inside the crack and start the abseil down the crack - throwing the ropes over the outside of the flake risks them catching on the opposite buttress and lands you in the middle of the unpleasant vegetation at the foot of the gully

  1. 15m (22)

  2. 35m (22)

  3. 25m (-)

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Tony Marian, 1990

17 * Vee Line Trad 73m

Great, sustained first pitch. If you enjoy caving keep going, otherwise full 30m rappel (watch rope-ends!)

8 Deception Gully Trad 64m

Worthless gully 6 metres left of 'Vee Line'.

10 * Whipped Cream Trad 74m
21 Ravenous Intent Trad 20m

Start immediately right of 'Entree Direct Start' and use tree to gain face via tricky move then up wall above

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Jeremy Boreham (in winiter), 1983

11 Pilgrims Progress Trad 60m
9 Entrée Trad 61m
11 M4 The Hard Days Night Aid 76m 2

FA: Geoff Gledhill & Alen Glenhill, 1970

15 Feline Trad 46m

The right-facing corner 18 metres left of 'The Hard Days Night'.

16 Birthday Suit Trad 70m
18 Plead for Me Trad 15m

Remarkably overhung off-width chimney a few metres left of 'Birthday Suit'

FA: Charles Creese & Peter Watling, 1987


Good fun steep wall climbing.

Start: Start approximately 200m left of Strutting Through The Stratosphere and about 150m left of the big roof that marks the aid route Hard Day's Night at an attractive looking orange & black wall above a white arrow on the walking track.

FA: Josef Goding & Simon Pateman, 2001

21 ** Gale Force Trad 16m

Start: Shares the start of 'He who walks through shallow water' until #9 nut, then traverses left past steep thin moves past 3rd FH into scoop. Up and left out of this to easier ground and DBB. Move right on large ledge to Abseil station. Not as sustained as 'He who walks through shallow water'

FA: Josef Goding & Simon Pateman, 2001

30 Top Access Trad 18m

Hard to see why anyone would bother. Start at rap anchor of 'He who walks through Shallow Water'. Move left about 6-8 metres along large ledge to obvious crack around 2-3m from far LH end. up this with difficulty to very easy ground above.

21 * Dead Calm Trad 30m

Follow the main track for about 5-600m past 'Gale Force' until about 30-50 metres past the creek. Takes left-hand side of prominent. 5 FH and1ring (sticking way out), lead right through steep moves until you reach the easier face above (lots of natural pro). DBB/rings lower off Approx 25m to ground.

FA: Joe Goding & Graham Holden, 2001