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Description

A substantial cliff with one major line amongst a sea of choss. Little further potential, but the existing 2 climb are worth a visit.

© (kieranl)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Approach

GR 075545. Follow McCutcheons Road to Carlsens Road and follow this north where it soon morphss into 'Geerak Track'. About 3 kilometres north of McCutcheons Road is a junction with a track on the right (east). This track has a gate which may or may not be locked and a sign "Wannon Water Authorised Personnel Only". The crag is clearly visible so go for it. 2015 update: If you can drive in, there is a marked track (a bit hard to follow) that leads up to a well established camping cave just below the crag. The start is hard to find, but it's a few hundred metres before the pumping station turn-around at a small cairn. Or traverse across hill from pumping station.

© (kieranl)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Potentially a 'Grampians' classic taking the huge, right-facing sickle in the middle of the cliff.

  1. 50m (19) Climb the corner, occasionally on the right wall, to the roof. Now traverse right.

  2. 15m (-) Go up to the next roof and traverse left.

  3. 50m (-) Jugs.

FA: Chris Baxter & Hugh Foxcroft, 1983

A surprisingly good route on mostly clean diagonal line on the L wall (looking up) of the main descent gully. About halfway up - locate large left leading diagonal lines. Climb takes the thin face that leads into main diagonal. Obvious crack on the L could be an easier alternate to the somewhat desperate first pitch.

  1. 20m 21, Tricky start, 2m R of diagonal corner/crack. Climb into the line from the R, then straight up pumpy wall into the wide left leading crack.

  2. 25m 17, Nice pitch that is better and easier than appearances would suggest. Continues along the diagonal under roof, until easy wall leads to top. Easy scramble down the back.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Pump Wall (Cambell's Rock).