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Description

A series of compact orange walls with terraces in between. This is the right-hand side of the same escarpment as "Millenium Caves". This area is closer to the road than "Millenium" but it is nothing like as good.

Mobile phones get Telstra coverage from the top terrace, deteriorating as you get closer to ground level.

© (kieranl)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

Approach

Drive up Goat Track from Buandik and park at the Cave of Fishes car-park (as for "Millenium Caves"). The top terrace, with a red wall and cave, is visible above the tree tops to the right as you face the start of the "Millenium" track. The terraces rise from right-to-left so, from the start of the "Millenium Caves" track, aim to the right of the top terrace.

© (kieranl)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1

The only climb positiviely identified and looks OK. Interesting traverse.

Start: Start at the righthand end of the upper terrace.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1992

2
17 Yerba Mate Trad 18m

Hard Start

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1992

3
9 Timor Trad 19m

Left arete from middle terrace

FA: Chris Lawrence (solo), 1991

4
8 Vukovar Trad 10m

Face 2 metres right of 'Timor'

FA: Chris Lawrence (solo), 1991

5
9 Consequential Trad 10m

Face right of 'Vukovar'

FA: Chris Lawrence (solo), 1991

6
10 Silence And Speed Trad 10m

Layback, then face right of 'Consequential'

FA: Geoff Butcher (solo), 1991

7
15 Workaholics Trad 12m

Up from block right of 'Silence And Speed'.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1991

8
13 The Jig Is Up Trad 12m

Face above block 1 metre right of 'Workaholics'.

FA: Chris Lawrence, Geoff Butcher, 1991

9
16 Stress Shared Trad 12m

Crack 1 metre right of 'The Jig Is Up'

FA: Geoff Butcher, Chris Lawrence, 1991

10
16 Triangle Fridge Trad 14m

Left under flake 4 metres right of 'Stress Shared' to juggy bulge. Left to finish.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1991

11
19 R Not Chewing Gum Trad 14m

Poor protection. Corner, bulge, wall 1 metre right of 'Triangle Fridge'.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1991

12

Follow left-leaning crack at right end of cliff to arete. go around arete and along the main face.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1992

13

Prominent flake line 2 metres right of "Condor Capers". Hard start unless you're tall.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

14
18 Condor Capers Trad 21m

Take the charcoal-black corner line in the middle of the wall. At horizontal break, move right up flake to finish.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1993

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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