A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Table of contents
- 1. Quartz Edge 5 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Quartz Edge 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.
Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.
Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.
Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.
Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.
Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.
Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.
Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.
Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.
Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.
Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.
description
A steep crag in a remote setting but less than 100 metres from the car. There are one or two options for hard new routes.
access issues
Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd
approach
Drive along the 'Victoria Range' Road for 9.4 km, 4.1 km past 'The Fortress' turnoff. Park near the bottom of a long hill. The crag is just west of the road.
GR 179709 1:25000
ethic
Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.
Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.
===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===
For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Three Hours (project)
The overhanging wall | 28 | 24m | |||
2 |
★ Prague Spring
A good climb up the best line on the cliff. It's an attractive corner that doesn't quite reach the ground and leads to a roof.
FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1988 | 18 | 38m, 2 | |||
3 |
Stairway To The Moon
Nice but a bit loose. Start 2 metres right of Prague Spring. Face to small, left facing corner and up this to roof. Move around right to easier upper wall. FA: Geoff Butcher, Martin Davis & Chris Lawrence., 1994 | 17 | 42m | |||
4 |
On The Amazon
Steep start and finish but not all that great. Start at undercut corner 20 metres right of Prague Spring. Up the corner until near the roof then traverse left to the arete. Overhanging groove above leads to steep, dinnerplating rock. FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1988 | 16 | 40m | |||
5 |
No Strings Attached
Start 5 metres right of On The Amazon. The shallow, loose-looking corner. Left under overhang and up to ledge. Left and up on easier broken ground. FA: Stephen Hamilton & Glenn Tempest, 1993 | 18 | 40m |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
16 | On The Amazon | 40m | |||
17 | Stairway To The Moon | 42m | |||
18 | No Strings Attached | 40m | |||
★ | Prague Spring | 38m, 2 | |||
28 | ★ | Three Hours (project) | 24m |