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Description

Just around the corner from the womb-like Gallery ... but a whole different experience. Very few bolts here, mainly serious trad on a big wall.

© (jgoding)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Approach

Before you enter the narrow gully just before you get to the Gallery hang a right and scramble down a loose gully, then follow a rough track left around the base of the cliff until you see the large clean face (about 70m high).

© (jgoding)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
15 X Marks The Spot Trad 30m

The first line on the left end of 'Rain Wall', a right-leading diagonal crack, with start marked with a white square (already there at the time of the first recorded ascent)

FA: Jim Van Gelder, James Strohfeld, Neil Barr, 1983

2
16 Sally's Route Trad 40m

Unusual climbing up the centre of the wall left of "Blackberry Nip".

FA: Greg and Sally Child, 1992

3
10 Blackberry Nip Trad 40m

There are three diagonal lines right of "X Marks The Spot". Start below a small, curved roof. The line, stepping left at the top.

FA: Stephen Lake, Leigh Howes, 1983

4
21 Flash Flood Mixed 33m, 3

Take double ropes.

Start: Start as for "Blackberry Nip".

FA: Edwin Young, 1992

5
22 ** Rain on the Brain Mixed 50m, 2
  1. 25m (22) Upface directly below distinctive skull formation (2 BR) then bbig flake to semi-hanging belay from bolts in skull.

  2. 25m (22) Up to BR. Traverse lip, BR, to left-leading diagonal crack. Up.

FA: Edwin Young, Michael Hampton (alt), 1992

6
24 M1 The Water Line Aid 80m
7
24 Scorched Earth Trad 60m
9
17 The Web Trad 17m
10
10 Plain English Trad 18m
12
13 Drain Pipe Trad 22m
13
13 Broken English Trad 10m
14
13 Gutter Talk Trad 10m
15
17 Domestic Violence Trad 18m
16

May be substantially a repeat of "Sally's Route"

Start: start left of "Blackberry Nip" at the right-hand of 2 shallow cornere which face each other.

FA: Peter Campbell, Matt Darby, Michael Hampton, Edwin Young, 2000

17
24 M0 Rain Dance Mixed 3

Off block, up, 3 bolts, fixed wire to anchors above horizontal break. Third bolt used for aid. Rap off.

Start: Start 5 metres right of black streak.

FA: Ed Darling, Gareth Llewellyn, Simon, Gordon, 1997

Open trips

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