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Description

Just around the corner from the womb-like Gallery ... but a whole different experience. Very few bolts here, mainly serious trad on a big wall.

© (jgoding)

Access issues inherited from Victoria Range

The Victoria Range was badly burnt in the fires of February 2013 but all areas are now open to climbing (Feb 2014). However there are access changes to the cliffs in the Eureka area.

Approach

Before you enter the narrow gully just before you get to the Gallery hang a right and scramble down a loose gully, then follow a rough track left around the base of the cliff until you see the large clean face (about 70m high).

© (jgoding)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
15 X Marks The Spot Trad 30m

The first line on the left end of 'Rain Wall', a right-leading diagonal crack, with start marked with a white square (already there at the time of the first recorded ascent)

FA: Jim Van Gelder, James Strohfeld & Neil Barr, 1983

2
16 Sally's Route Trad 40m

Unusual climbing up the centre of the wall left of "Blackberry Nip".

FA: Greg & Sally Child, 1992

3

May be substantially a repeat of Sally's Route start left of Blackberry Nip at the right-hand of 2 shallow cornere which face each other. Up right-hand corner for 5 metres then up wall, veering right to nose. Up to join Blackberry Nip for final 3 metres.

FA: Peter Campbell, Matt Darby, Michael Hampton & Edwin Young, 2000

4
10 Blackberry Nip Trad 40m

There are three diagonal lines right of "X Marks The Spot". Start below a small, curved roof. The line, stepping left at the top.

FA: Stephen Lake & Leigh Howes, 1983

5
21 Flash Flood Mixed 33m, 3

Take double ropes. Start as for Blackberry Nip. Up for 4 metres then step right (BR) and up to diagonal break. Left for 3 metres then, at overlap, pull through on big holds. Up to rest, go right for 2 metres then up clean yellow streak past 2 BRs

FA: Edwin Young, 1992

6
22 *** Rain on the Brain Mixed 50m, 2, 2
  1. 25m (22) Upface directly below distinctive skull formation (2 BR) then bbig flake to semi-hanging belay from bolts in skull.

  2. 25m (22) Up to BR. Traverse lip, BR, to left-leading diagonal crack. Up.

FA: Edwin Young & Michael Hampton (alt), 1992

7
24 M0 Rain Dance Mixed 3

Start 5 metres right of black streak.

Off block, up, 3 bolts, fixed wire to anchors above horizontal break. Third bolt used for aid. Rap off.

FA: Ed Darling, Gareth Llewellyn, Simon & Gordon, 1997

Climbs right of here are approached from The Gallery, the first two by a very exposed access on ledges. It is a good idea to rope up for this access.

8
24 M1 The Water Line Aid 80m, 2

The main line on Rain Wall. Start by roping up for an exposed ledge system descending left of Broken English;

  1. 25m Traverse down left along break to hanging belay where line sweeps upward.

  2. 25m (24 M1) Left along the line (2 wires for aid near start)

  3. 30m Up line to top.

FA: Ed Neve & Keith Lockwood, 1990

9
24 Scorched Earth Trad 60m

Airy and sustained climbing in magnificent situations. Start by following ledges under steep walls around left from The Gallery.

1) 25m (24) Hand traverse around hanging arete. Up cracks, BR, Left into face from ledge to exposed hanging belay from bolts.

2) 35m (22) Diagonal cracks to lip of wall below. Up scary line.

FA: Glen Tempest & Stephen Hamilton, 1992

10

Steeply up left of arete left of Plain English. Go right around arete at 6 metres and up.

FA: Stephen Hamilton & Lisa Imer, 1992

11
17 The Web Trad 17m

Start as for Plain English then climb narrow wall on left.

FA: Stuart Imer, Lisa Imer & Peter Woodfield, 1991

12
10 Plain English Trad 18m

Start at the chimney just left (south) of The Gallery chasm. Up the chimney on doubtful rock to the left arete.

FA: Stephen Lake & Leigh Howes, 1983

13

Desperate start. Step right, BR, from block in Plain English. Up wall, 2 bolts.

FA: Glen Tempest & Matt Darby, 1992

14
13 Drain Pipe Trad 22m

The wall right of Plain English with a vertical white dyke. Up right side of wall, then ridge to juggy line to top.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Ed Neve, 1990

15
13 Broken English Trad 10m

Probably a repeat of the top section of Drain Pipe. Start out of The Gallery, just left of Mr Meat Step onto face from cave. Up crack for 3 metres, then veer left up weakness.

FA: Stuart Imer, Lisa Imer & Peter Woodfield, 1991

16
13 Gutter Talk Trad 10m
17
17 Domestic Violence Trad 18m

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