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Description

This complex area has emerged from obscurity and now contains a wealth of quality sport, semi-sport and trad routes on some of the best rock in 'Victoria'. With easy access and a good variety of grades this crag is destined for popularity. The

three dimensional nature of the area means you can climb in the shade all day long or be protected from light rain. The big boulder caves also offer great exploration and have the habit of eating loose shoes or �biners. Routes have a mixture of old

school hangerless machine bolts and newer ringbolts and fixed hangers. A basic trad rack is required on some of these climbs.

© (nmonteith)

Access issues inherited from Red Rock Area

Do NOT approach any of the crags in this area across the paddocks from Red Rock Road. The land has recently changed hands and the farmer does not want people crossing the property. Follow the tracks just outside the southern or northern boundaries of the farmland until able to move around the farmland to the area you are going. Please adhere to this to keep open the possibility of negotiated access.

Approach

12 minutes mostly flat walk.

Park on Red Rock Road immediately opposite the large pinnacle with distinctive steep orange west face about 1km south of Mt Fox carpark (refer to 'Grampians' Select guide by Tempest/Mentz). Hop over the fence and stroll across the paddocks and enter some light scrub (hopefully spotting the local emus and grey kangaroos). The first big boulder

with a couple of rusty hangers on the west face is Pellant Pinnacle.

Some of this information comes from Micheal Hampton�s forthcoming 'Victoria' Ranges guidebook. Buy it in a store - some time this decade - perhaps.

© (nmonteith)

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
23 Sweat of Effort Trad 20m

Prominent leftwards leaning line on west facing wall 30m south of Vertebrae. Bulgy 'Arapiles' style rock. Awkward slabby closed corner to start then pumpy traversing to finish. Good gear but needs a bit of a clean.

FA: Malcolm Matheson Neil Monteith, 2004

2

Starts 2m left of Vertebrae. Pumpy underclings and nigh all footholds keep the juices flowing in the forearms. An interesting assortment of bolting technology adorns this climb. Five FH's and a u-bolt loweroff. A large wire could be useful between bolts one and two.

FA: Neil Monteith Adam Demmert, 2004

3
19 Vertabrae Trad 15m

A great novelty warm-up. The route climbs the 'backbone' scoopy arete of the uphill side of the pillar past four FH's. Rap off double rings.

FA: Neil Monteith

4
24 The Backbone Trad 12m

Up Verterbrae to 4th bolt then step delicatly right onto arete and around onto face (FH). Desperate move up small edges to good finger lock finish. DRB lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2006

5
20 Kentucky Fried Clippin' Mixed 8m, 3

Overheating sport fun for summer. Thin climbing up short rounded arete opposite 'Vertabrae'. Three FHs. Either lower-off hanging tree branch (!) or walk back to tree belay.

FA: Kent Paterson Neil Monteith, 2005

6
23 * Red Rock Arete Trad 35m

A fairly good climb, taking the L arete of the main face. Start from a ledge gained by scrambling up the boulder choked gully. Climb a short crack from the R side of the ledge then move back left to the arete and up and slightly right to more cracks leading up to the arete again. Move around left of the arete and up to a ledge (belay possible) to finish up the final, steeply overhanging arete. Double ropes a

must. Steve Monks, Louise Shepherd, Peter Riddy March 89

FA: Steve Monks, Louise Shepherd, Peter Riddy, 1989

7
26 ** English Rose Trad 45m

A continuous pitch up the centre of the face, gradually steepening as it goes. Desperate friction moves (mossy) 5m left of 'Redback' lead past a BR to a slim groove. Up left past a

second BR to gain a thin crack which leads to the prominent diagonal. Continue more easily up the left leading diagonal crack to a thin vertical crack. When the crack ends, lurch left to gain another overhanging crack, which leads to the top. First pitch is mossy.

FA: Steve Monks, Jane Wilkinson, 1989

8
25 ** Redback Trad 55m

Needs a good brushing down low. A fine face pitch leads to wild swings through the top overhang. 1) 25m (24) Climb tenuously past a BR 10m L of the R arete and continue R-ward to a second BR. Up and R to good slots and continue diagonally R to gain short groove and the ledge on SW arete. 2) 30m (25) Up to gain the prominent undercut 'jug' on the arete. Heave over the roof and up to a rest. Swing around on to the W face and go up, it gets easier, to the top. The bolts don't look so flash anymore.

FA: Steve Monks, Jane Wilkinson, Martin Scheel, 1989

9
24 * Redback pitch 1 Trad 25m
10
25 ** Redback pitch 2 Trad 20m

FA: Steve Monks

11
20 * Dang Sport 9m

An alternative first pitch to 'Redback'. Starts 10m down and left of 'Conflict of Interest' at prominent arête between west facing orange wall and south facing grey wall. Nice balancy climbing with three FH's. Belay on ledge with natural gear. Scramble off to the right (roped) or continue upwards into 'Redback' – grade 25.

FA: Neil Monteith Malcolm Matheson, 2004

12
17 Red Ragging Trad 30m

One for the peak baggers. The easiest route on the southern pinnacle. Scramble up the S face to a ledge on the SW arete. Traverse right above red overhang with poor pro then climb directly to the top on juggy grey rock.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Steve Monks, Peter Riddy, 1989

13

Starts 3m right of 'Red Ragging' on south face of southern pinnacle. Up

and left on orange rock with no gear to left leading small crack through bulge at 5m. Stem through bulge and swing out left to meet up with 'Red Ragging'. Follow it for a few metres then head diagonally right aiming for the prominent left leaning orange corner. Up corner using jugs on big hollow sounding block to finish with bouldery left traverse to ledge.

FA: Neil Monteith

14
23 Full Metal Vengeance Sport 26m, 6

This one's for 'Justin Thyme'. A long juggy wall climb with a hard roof move down low. Start as for 'Conflict of Interest' on the south face of the southern pillar. At COI's first FH step left to UB and power through awkward roof and vague finger crack to stance. Up with a slight right trend past five further UB's to the same anchor as COI. Beware the runout just before the anchor. Some medium wires could be useful if you aren't feeling bold.

FA: Neil Monteith Jono Schimdt, 2005

15
20 * Conflict of Interest Sport 25m, 7

Popular. Sport climbing up a grey techincal face on nubbins. Starts about 5m right of 'Red Ragging' on far right side of the south face. Wander up ultra grey jugs for 6m until you reach the red scooped rock (FH), step right then up through small roof then onwards past seven ringbolts to DRB lower off. Grade depends on how direct you pull the roof move. The further right you go the easier it gets!

FA: Neil Monteith

16
27 ** Chrysalis Trad 20m

Rising techincal traverse and crimpy face out left from 'Fat Fingered Freak'.

Start: From FFFs 2nd bolt head hard left on shallow slots to big break. Shake, then crimp like a fiend to next big break. Finish up further thin stuff to lower-off. 6 rings. 4th bolt is hard to clip without extension.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

17
23 * Fat Fingered Freak Sport 18m, 4

Pumpy with some novelty moves. Located 10m right of Conflict Of Interest in shaded chasm. Bouldery steep short corner (stickclip RB) to ledge. Step right then up left facing flake system (three RBs) to rap chain. Last bolt was added after first ascent.

FA: Nick McKinnon

18
15 Height of Darkness Mixed 20m, 3

Face with three BRs (then natural protection) opposite Fat Fingered Freak. Descent is currently via a selection of fixed slings and carabiners.

FA: Neil Monteith and Jacqui Middleton, 2003

19
23 ** Variance Mixed 18m, 4

One of the best routes here and quite popular.Varied climbing! Starts 5m right of 'Fat Fingered Freak'. Stick clip RB from block. Jump for jug and mantle onto ledge. Clip BR and step right then trend back left along sloping orange edge (BR) to under cracked bulge. Pull through this strenuously protected by wires to jug at base of small corner. Clip BR; stem into corner for a few moves then reach out left to escape hold that leads to jugs and top. Single u-bolt lower-off WARNING - single clip and go anchor could be unsafe - please thread direct through Ubolt rather than using the biner. Single set of wires and a finger size cam is the only trad gear required.

FA: Neil Monteith

20
23 * One Ring to Bind Them Mixed 15m, 4

The overhung knifeblade arete about 5m right of 'Variance'. Surprisingly pumpy and sustained. Stickclip RB for bouldery start then hang on for the ride up fragile sharp pockets and flakes past a BR and three UBs. This used to be mostly trad but was subsequently retroed to make it actually enjoyable. It was even solo-aided on trad by Neil as a means to get to the summit! WARNING - single clip-and-go lower off biner should not be used. Please thread directly through u-bolt. These biners can snap at very low weights.

FA: Neil Monteith

21

Skanky. The arete with two RBs just right of 'Womble', via the undercut direct start. 'Missing' a third bolt. Stickclip first bolt, and step across from small block oposite to gain rock. Up very fragile mega jugs onto arete. Scamper up the left side (trying to avoid Womble). Place some marginal wires in fragile rock then go up and clip third FH of 'Dislocation' (with difficulty). Finish up the arete past another FH to lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2006

22
21 * Dislocation Sport 15m

A much better way onto the arete via the orange face around right.

Start: Start just left of large suspended block, 3m left of Stricke The First Blow and 2m right of the left arete.

FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2006

23
22 * Static Ticking Rampage Sport 20m, 6

Scoopy steep sport route. Starts below suspended chockstone belay of STFB on backside of northern pinnacle. Up into scoop and over rooflet then easily up jugs to tricky step right onto small ledge. Blast straight up orange overhung wall above to horizontal break and finish up left past the last FH of STFB to its rap chain. 6 RBs.

FA: Neil Monteith Tim Lee, 2003

24

On the east face in the chasm proper. Starts from large suspended chock-stone bridge. Three FH's up rounded rib leads to jug. Traverse right along break past large wire placement and FH then head straight up (FH) to chain. Route was originally climbed direct from the last FH instead of traversing off to the right on 'cheat' jugs.

FA: Neil Monteith

25

The extension is an open project

FA: Adam Dememrt, Neil Monteith & Catherine de vaus, 2006

26
24 ** Struck Twice Trad 17m

Zig zagging seam on orange bulging north face about 10m right of 'Static Ticking Rampage'. The last great line of Red Rocks? Five years in the making after an aborted bolting attempt by Nick and Neil in 2001. Stickclip then batman up to first UB (or attempt the V10+ direct start!) Rightwards along very sloping rail then blast straight up bugling seam above. 6 UBs and double ring lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2006

27
18 Hamstrung Trad 30m

Directly left of 'English Rose' is a gully. Left of this is an 'Arapiles' style unclimbed overhung crack. Left of this is an easy angled left facing orange corner (about 10m right of Struck Twice). Up this to meet with top of pine tree. Peer around the corner to find horizontal rising crack with occasional tufts of grass. Traverse desperately along this with nigh all footholds to end up perched on sharp rest flake. Finish up easy jugs to top.

FA: Neil Monteith

28
27 ** Insha'Allah Sport 15m, 6

Long admired - now climbed! The u-bolted flared shiny orange crack on the west face of the Northern Pinnacle about 5m right of 'Hamstrung'. Brutal fingerlocks to start then up short reachy corner. Campus right along slick break to final crimpy face finish. Sustained. 6 bolts and lower-off.

FFA: Adam Demmert, 2007

FA: Adam Demmert, 2007

29
24 ** Wave of Mutilation Trad 12m

A tricky crux on sensational turtle shell rock. The route begins at the left hand end of the Trench. Follow three FH to a chain anchor. A #2 Rock will protect the start, or stick-clip the first bolt.

FA: Tim Marsh

30
23 ** Spinal Tap Trad 20m

Would be a three star megaclassic if it wasn't tucked away in this gully. 4m right of 'Wave of Mutilation'. Chimney up the start to the first FH. Flakes, pockets and heucos lead up steep orange wall past eight FHs. Watch the lurking block behind you between the fourth and sixth bolts.

FA: Neil Monteith

31

Steep pumpy jug hauling on orange rock. Located on upper wall deep inside chasm. Two RB's to start then medium gear to DRB lower off.

FA: Neil Monteith

32
18 Over And Out Trad 13m

Wide overhung trench 4m right of 'Used Platypus Condom'. No wide trad gear required. Surprisingly steep and interesting. Walk off descent.

FA: Neil Monteith Hannah Lockie, 2005

33
20 * Raver Girl Trad 15m

A pumpy rising traverse on gritty rock with a nails hard start. Starts 5m right of 'Over And Out' at right edge of undercut grey wall. Boulder past FH to gain horizontals. 'Monkey' leftwards across these (medium SLCD's) to a flake forming an arête. Up this arete (FH) to finish. Walk off descent.

FA: Hannah Lockie Neil Monteith, 2005

34
21 * Raver Boy Trad 11m

A thin direct finish to 'Raver Girl'. Climb past first FH to horizontals. Arrange pro (medium SLCD's) and head rightwards on thin crimpers past FH to good holds. Up juggy wall past 3rd FH to top. Walk off descent.

FA: Neil Monteith Hannah Lockie, 2005

35
21 Bellrock Trad 25m

The black slabs opposite 'Static Ticking Rampage' with prominant bolts. The left line. Up the slab past three FHs. A thin crux through the bulge (way above the last bolt!) and finish up the arête as for 'Gandolf the Grey'. May be easier if you are tall.

FA: Ben Hawthorne

36
17 Gandolf the Grey Sport 25m, 5

Slab climbing in the Grampians? The right hand side line past one UB and four FHs. Pass 1st FH on the right to finish up the arête to a double bolt lower off.

FA: Ben Hawthorne

37
17 Pike Trad 35m

Good, delicate and well protected slab climbing. The slab and shallow cracks 5 meters left of Aelutian Crack. Climb short grassy crack onto the slab then follow the cracks to the base of the compact red/orange corner. Move left and finish up 'Cindy'.

FA: David Jupp, Tim Marsh & Michael Homfray, 2002

38
14 Wimbleton Trad 40m

Directly opposite 'Strike the First Blow', is a juggy wall. Start a few metres right and climb the grey face which gets easier the higher you get. At the small red cave climb out the overhung right side and up easily to ledge. There is a mystery bolted rap anchor in the cave.

FA: Gay Welders Union, 2002

39
20 Bikini Bootcamp Sport 10m, 4

Two weeks to a beach body. A good warm-up route or worthwhile in its own right.

Start: Starts just right of descent gully for the 'Back Wall' routes (about 10m right of Height of Darkness) at small pillar.

FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2007

40

Intense plaything.

Start: Starts 1m right of 'Bikini Bootcamp'.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

41
16 * Aleutian Crack Trad 35m

The shrubbery isn't as bad as it looks! On the left side of the entrance to the Marianas Trench there is a wide crack. From the ground, scramble up on jumbled blocks for 5 meters to gain the base of the crack. A couple of layback moves take you to a grassy ledge. Climb the slab on the left of the crack to avoid some vegetation before stepping back into the line and on to the top. A big cam (4 Camalot or similar) is useful.

FA: David Jupp & Tim Marsh, 2002

42
16 No Habla Espanol Trad 14m

On the South East face of the pinnacle is a bottomless wide crack. Up crack (crux) on good gear then head left up rampy corner. Finish up vertical crack on jugs. Rap from bolt anchors above Je Ne Parle Pas Francais.

FA: Marcel Geelen & Jac Cutter, 2002

43

Technical slabby crimpers.

Start: Starts 3m left of 'No Habla Espanol'.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

44

Short steep crack.

Start: On the north side of the pillar are two right leading lines. This one climbs the right one. When the crack runs out reach up to horizonal, then step right and up juggy groove to top. Rap off anchors above Je Ne Parle Pas Francais.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

45
20 Human Centipede Trad 12m

Right facing flake crack in gully 100m below north Red Rocks pinnacle.

FA: Neil Monteith, Vanessa Wills

46
23 * Non Parlo Italiano Trad 10m

Short intense fun on great quality rock.

Start: Starts 3m left of 'Ich Spreche Nicht Deutsches', just left of small tree.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2007

47
21 Pike Direct Trad 35m

A direct finish up the compact red/orange corner and the arete above has been top roped in the low 20's (depending upon reach), however, both rock and protection are poor.

FA: Tim Marsh & Michael Homfray, 2002

48
9 Elver Trad 30m

Two meters left of 'Cindy' is a broken chimney which splits the slab in half. Start 1-2m left of this chimney (5m left of Cindy) and follow the cracks in the slab before weaving through the tufts of grass above. A tricky start with minimal gear quickly gives way to very easily protected if occasionally mossy climbing.

FA: David Jupp, Michael Homfray & Tim Marsh, 2002

49

Links the start of 'Conflict of Interest' into the excellent juggy finish of 'Full Metal Vengeance'. Cross over at COI's third bolt.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2005

50
16 Moria Trad 40m

Another worthless addition. Starts about 3m right of 'Wimbleton' at smooth part of grey wall. Up a few moves then right 2m. Follow easing seam, trending slightly left, to break overhang just right of the small red cave on 'Wimbleton'.

FA: Keith & Tim Lockwood, Ray Lassman, 2003

51

Needs bolts. Orange face and thin flake.

FA: Top-roped Sharon George, 2004

52
13 Grey Matter Trad 25m

Long gentle wall left of 'Womble'. First move off the ground is the crux. John Taylor and Mark Sewell did an un-recorded climb in this vicinity during Easter 1978. Start in the gap between 'Red Rock Pinnacle' and the 'Hamstrung' pinnacle. Pull onto the wall then follow intermittent seams up the grey wall, trending gradually rightwards. If the first move is problematic, you can bridge between the two pinnacles.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Pete Canning, Norm Booth, Ed Neve, 2003

53

Starts 7m right of One Ring To Bind Them. Right leading ramp leads to bulge, then left past protruding knob and up. Watch for the perched block of doom. Leader slung knob for aid.

FA: Gay Welders Union, 2002

54

Orange streak on right, then to Kauk Is My Hero's rap station.

FA: Ross Meffin, Rick Jeukin (solo), 1991

55
14 Cindy Trad 35m

Well protected moderate slab climbing with an entertaining finish. The short chimney crack to a dog leg crack three meters left of Pike. Take the ramp up right to the base of the shallow orange corner at the apex of the wall which is passed on the right.

FA: David Jupp & Tim Marsh, 2002

56
25 * Bathysphere Sport 15m

One of the hardest routes at Red Rocks. Unrepeated. Four FHs up thin orange face 3m right of 'Wave of Mutilation'. Finish is an awkard and tough mantle into the scoop.

FA: Tim Marsh, 2004

57
14 Gimli Trad 25m

Starts 3m right of 'Bikini Bootcamp'. Climb easy-angled grey rib for about 7m, step left then steeply to top of pinnacle. Descent can be accomplished over the next pinnacle or off the rap anchors on 'Bikini Bootcamp'.

FA: Ray Lassman, Keith & Tim Lockwood, 2003

58
13 Womble Trad 20m

Easy juggy face on wall opposite I Just Called etc. Start on the right side just left of the arete. Rock is fragile and protection is a little sparse. This is the easiest way to the summit.

FA: Gay Welders Union, 2002

59

Closed Project At the very back and top of Red Rocks is an imposing overhanging Corner. Awesome Position

FA: 2012

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