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Description

The central section of this cliff has some great climbs with the quality tapering off on either side. The pundits of the early seventies played down the significance of the routes put up here by Roland Pauligk,Pete Canning and friends which says more about the personalities involved than the climbs.

Access issues inherited from Grampians

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a national park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks. See http://m.parkweb.vic.gov.au/explore/parks/grampians-national-park/safety-and-regulations#overview

Approach

The track reaches the cliff almost at the right-hand end, between 'Free to Air' and 'Dog Breath' so the climbs are listed from right-to-left.

There is some confusion about the routes in the vicinity of where the track hits the cliff but these are mostly pretty scrappy so it's best to just keep going left to the first good climbs.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Major right-facing corner in upper part of cliff from major horizontal ledge. The abseil route on this section of cliff comes down this.

FA: David Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1995

  1. 35m From 5 metres right of 'Red Knife', climb past tree to ledge at foot of crack at 5 metres. Crack to slab then step right to seam. Up to major horizontal ledge.

  2. 20m (17) Move a few metres left along ledge and up shallow, right-facing corner, froming right side of overhanging buttress, until it swings right to bushy stance. Slab just right of scrubby line until forced into line.

FA: David Gairns & Chris Baxter (alt), 1995

Line right of pedestal 30 metres right of where the track meets the cliff. Poor protection.

FA: Harley Burke & D.Delves, 1972

Start 3 metres right of 'Free To Air' Better than it looks, which might not be saying much.

  1. 30m Climb black, left-facing corner/gully to large block on right at about 20m. Crack, small corner, then slab above to ledge.

  2. 30m Up left on to next ledge. Left on this for 4m to eucalypt. Now steeply up right, then straight up line.

FA: David Gairns & Chris Baxter. (alt), 1997

Start 15 metres right of where the track meets the cliff.

Supposedly excellent climbing on good rock. Climb up to and up yellow, left-facing flake. Finish up right on slab. Belay at big block on right (on 'Space Cowboys'). Abseil from twin trees on right.

FA: Chris Baxter & David Gairns, 1997

Crack 5 metres left of where track meets cliff.

Not located but somewhere near 'Florentine Pogen' or 'Dog Breath'

Corner 10 metres left of where track meets cliff. May be repeat of 'Big Feather'.

10 metres left of where the track meets the cliff.

Start on a buttress 8 metres right of 'Sioux',2 metres right of a corner.

  1. 40m (22) Up buttress for 15m, then left to right facing corner capped by big roof. Up corner, then step left and layback through roof to large, bushy ledge.

  2. 25m (15) Step left and take line right of buttress through small overhang.

FA: Peter Woolford & Fiachra Kearney, 1997

Line 32 metres right of 'Blackfoot'

32 metres left of Sioux'

Start: Approx 100metres right of 'Peanuts', which places it somewhere near 'Blackfoot', is a small cairn at the base of a nice crack, which takes good wires to a horizontal break at 4m. Dance between twin cracks to unlikely looking steep bulge, which is well protected (0.3+0.4 BD) and much easier than it looks on good holds. When on the Face above move left to large ledge with tree abseil. Rap approx 25m to ground from tree.

FA: Josef Goding & Stephen Holloway, 2001

Corner-crack 8 metres left of 'Blackfoot'

Start up left edge of buttress 10 metres left of 'Mohawk'. Good moves on the first pitch. A garden at the top of the second pitch.

  1. 30m Climb left edge of buttress, 1m left of thin crack. Right on narrow ledge at 6m. Up short, left-facing corner/crack, then right to foot of ‘gully’. Up steeply to ledge, then on to second one (right of tree).

  2. 30m Up to next ledge, then up line in yellow wall above until it stops below bulge. Over bulge, then up vegetation to overhang. Pull over this and go up left. Climb short corner-crack, then easy ramp leading up left.

FA: Greg Aimer, Chris Baxter (alt) & Christina Freestone, 1993

Black crack 45 metres left of 'Mohawk'

Start at black groove 8 metres right of 'Before Columbus'.

  1. 30m (19) Black groove to shallow, rightfacing corner. Up to ledge on right. Short, yellow corner to ledge. Go 15m right to corner.

  2. 20m Corner (probably 'Midori').

FA: Graeme Smith, Glen Donohue & Andrew Well, 1998

Line 38 metres left of 'Midori', 2 metres right of 'Geronimo',

Scrubby left-facing corner crack 2 metres left of 'Before Columbus'.

FFA: Glenn Tempest, Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 1993

Start 3 metres left of 'Geronimo', 6 metres right of 'Peanuts'

A classic. Varied and enjoyable first pitch. The second pitch is a little more out there. Start 6 metres left of 'Deja Vu'

  1. 37m (18) Up white slab to crack/corner. Step left under roof then up and into the lovely corner above. Belay from chains (30m to ground from here).

  2. 45m (18) A bit wild. Up just right of the belay for about 6-7m ,traverse left (about 4m) and up corner, left again past arete and up face on left, all the way to top. Double ropes reccomended for this pitch. Could be best to belay about 15m below the top on big ledge to help with the drag. There is a triple bolt belay (rings). Descent is around 45m rap to the top of the 1st pitch (then another 30m to the ground).

FA: Andrew Thomson & Gordon Talbett, 1971

Corner 10 metres left of 'Peanuts'

Crack 3 metres left of 'Hairy Canary'

Slab 3 metres left of 'Pest Strip'

Bulging line 10 metres left of 'The Liquidator'

Corner 7 metres left of 'Falkenhorst'

Fun steep sport

Start: Starts 1m left of 'Thunderball' at corner. (This is about 5-7m left of Falkenhorst, which has an unusual reverse "S" marked in the rock at waist height). There are some old bolts at chest height between these routes which was the old bivvy.

FA: Josef Goding & Achim Gross, 2008

In the nineteenth century, the incessant westward expansion of the United States incrementally compelled large numbers of Native Americans to resettle further west, often by force, almost always reluctantly

Start: Steeper and harder than it looks! Starts about 4-5m right of "Yatzi" (about 100m south of 'Shaken, not stirred', which doesn't fit with 'Yatzi' being 36 metres left of 'Thunderball') below big roof, the attractive 18m high crack finishing at a steep roof with a very steep offwidth crack.

FA: Josef Goding & Eric Sidharta, 2008

36 metres left of 'Thunderball'

Very short corner 8 metres left of 'Yatzi'

Crack 50 metres left of 'Cheyenne'

Seam and left-leading ramp 6 metres left of 'Mountolive'.

Start 20 metres left of 'Fools Paradise' at a name-plaque!

Corner 18 metres left of 'Apache', 8 metres right of 'Little Big Man'

Start at face 8 metres left of 'Wild Bill Hancock'

Thought to be somewhere right of 'Ten Years After' or near 'Pocahontas'

Start 28 metres left of 'Little Big Man', 15 metres right of 'The Renegade'.

Crack 15 metres left of 'Ten Years After', 25 metres right of 'The Lone Ranger'

Slab 25 metres left of 'The Renegade', 6 metres right of 'Silver'.

Start at slab 6 metres left of 'The Lone Ranger'.

Steep, initialled crack 9 metres left of 'Silver'.

Start at very shallow corner right of 'Pocahontas'.

First pitch takes one of the most prominent lines on the cliff. May be undergraded. Giant corner 60 metres left of 'Tonto'.

  1. 35m (14) Giant right-facing corner can be started on the right or directly, Up corner to belay in niche below a large guano stain. There may be an old piton here.

  2. 15m (14) Up corner on poor rock for 5 metres then right across slab and then hand traverse right to ledge.

  3. 23m Right again for 12 metres, up past bush at overhang to cave.

  4. 30m (14) Over bulge and up to roof and right to chimney-groove.

FA: Ian Guild & Michael Stone, 1966

Start as for 'Pocahontas'. This alternative finish looks outrageous for the grade.

Buttress 23 metres left of 'Pocahontas', just right of the descent gully.

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