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You can locate this cliff using our mobile app!

Dowload our Android app, then when you are standing next to the cliff, navigate to the cliff page in the app and click on the cross hairs at the top of the screen. The app will work out your geolocation and send it to the server. Voila you have now earnt Karma points and helped build a better resource.

Description

The central section of this cliff has some great climbs with the quality tapering off on either side. The pundits of the early seventies played down the significance of the routes put up here by Roland Pauligk,Pete Canning and friends which says more about the personalities involved than the climbs.

Access issues inherited from Grampians

The northern part of the Park, including Mt Stapylton is currently closed to all access following the January 2014 fires. Check the Access Issues for each area.

Here's an update from Parks Victoria:

Grampians National Park Update – 14 February 2014 (Rock climbing and Bouldering)

The Northern Grampians Fire severely burnt the natural environment and much of the park infrastructure in and around Hollow Mountain, Summer Day Valley and Mt Stapylton – this includes many popular rock climbing and bouldering sites; as a result there are many park closures in place. The dry, rocky landscape is now extremely fragile and will take a long time to recover – the fire burnt extremely hot so in many cases regeneration will now occur (very slowly) from seed. Loss of vegetation, loose rocks, unstable soils and loss of access tracks means any foot traffic will have long term impacts on the recovery of the environment. Impacts now will also affect the sustainability of rock climbing sites well into the future.

Please respect the fragility of the environment and support the long term recovery of the Northern Grampians by remaining out of any closed areas. While Parks Victoria regrets the need to enforce closures, substantial fines will be imposed on those found in any closed, fire affected area.

Parks Victoria recognises the importance and popularity of the Northern Grampians to the rock climbing and bouldering communities and will be working closely with industry and community representatives throughout a staged reopening process. Environmental considerations will largely determine when sites are available to be reopened, and replacement of damaged infrastructure will occur as suitable funding is available.

As part of the recovery process, Parks Victoria will be identifying alternative options for climbing and bouldering, and will closely monitor impacts on these sites as their use and popularity increases. There will also be significant work done on the future experience of visitors in the Northern Grampians.

Parks Victoria is continuing to improve its understanding of the needs of climbers and boulderers and is intent on providing an experience that is well respected, regarded, promoted and understood throughout the Australian and International Climbing and bouldering communities.

Parks Victoria will be relying heavily on the climbing industry to work together to spread the messages about the fragility of the landscape and the long term sustainability of rock climbing in the Grampians. There may be opportunities for licenced tour operators, school and community based groups to become involved in the recovery process.

Due to closures in the Northern Grampians, the availability of rock climbing, camping, car touring and bushwalking experiences is limited. Sourcing information on available campgrounds and other accommodation options is recommended. Please visit www.parkweb.vic.gov.au for park maps and regular Grampians fire recovery updates.

For detailed information on available rockclimbing and bouldering sites in and near to the Grampians please refer to recognised guidebooks/websites. A general list of open and available areas includes the following:

Rockclimbing sites open in the Grampians:

  • Wonderland Range
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt William Range
  • Victoria Point area
  • Victoria Range (Including the Red Rock, Muline and the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)

Limited Bouldering Sites available in and near the Grampians:

  • Victoria Range (Including the Gallery area. Please respect cultural heritage and recovering fire affected areas)
  • Serra Range (Including Mt Rosea and Bundaleer)
  • Mt Arapiles
  • Mt Talbot
  • The Black Range

Please remember your climbing etiquette:

  • Only climb and boulder in open accessible areas
  • Stick to tracks
  • Respect fragile environmental areas and cultural heritage
  • Keep an eye out for Aboriginal Art sites – Report to Parks Victoria if you come across anything new.
  • Be mindful of cleaning
  • No chipping or bolting
  • Avoid excessive chalk
  • Take your rubbish home with you

Parks Victoria - Grampians National Park

National Park

Approach

The track reaches the cliff almost at the right-hand end, between 'Free to Air' and 'Dog Breath' so the climbs are listed from right-to-left.

There is some confusion about the routes in the vicinity of where the track hits the cliff but these are mostly pretty scrappy so it's best to just keep going left to the first good climbs.

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1

Major right-facing corner in upper part of cliff from major horizontal ledge. The abseil route on this section of cliff comes down this.

FA: David Gairns, Chris Baxter, 1995

2
17 Smoke Signals Trad 55m
  1. 35m From 5 metres right of 'Red Knife', climb past tree to ledge at foot of crack at 5 metres. Crack to slab then step right to seam. Up to major horizontal ledge.

  2. 20m (17) Move a few metres left along ledge and up shallow, right-facing corner, froming right side of overhanging buttress, until it swings right to bushy stance. Slab just right of scrubby line until forced into line.

FA: David Gairns, Chris Baxter (alt), 1995

3
13 Red Knife Trad 50m

Line right of pedestal 30 metres right of where the track meets the cliff. Poor protection.

FA: Harley Burke, D.Delves, 1972

4
14 Space Cowboys Trad 60m

Start 3 metres right of 'Free To Air' Better than it looks, which might not be saying much.

  1. 30m Climb black, left-facing corner/gully to large block on right at about 20m. Crack, small corner, then slab above to ledge.

  2. 30m Up left on to next ledge. Left on this for 4m to eucalypt. Now steeply up right, then straight up line.

FA: David Gairns, Chris Baxter. (alt), 1997

5
19 Free to Air Trad 20m

Start 15 metres right of where the track meets the cliff.

Supposedly excellent climbing on good rock. Climb up to and up yellow, left-facing flake. Finish up right on slab. Belay at big block on right (on 'Space Cowboys'). Abseil from twin trees on right.

FA: Chris Baxter, David Gairns, 1997

6
10 Dog Breath Trad 30m

Crack 5 metres left of where track meets cliff.

7

Not located but somewhere near 'Florentine Pogen' or 'Dog Breath'

8
8 Florentine Pogen Trad 30m

Corner 10 metres left of where track meets cliff. May be repeat of 'Big Feather'.

9
12 Big Feather Trad 60m

10 metres left of where the track meets the cliff.

10
22 Adios Amigo Trad 65m

Start on a buttress 8 metres right of 'Sioux',2 metres right of a corner.

  1. 40m (22) Up buttress for 15m, then left to right facing corner capped by big roof. Up corner, then step left and layback through roof to large, bushy ledge.

  2. 25m (15) Step left and take line right of buttress through small overhang.

FA: Peter Woolford,Fiachra Kearney, 1997

11
17 * Sioux Trad 53m

Line 32 metres right of 'Blackfoot'

12
10 Blackfoot Trad 57m

32 metres left of Sioux'

13
17 Uncertain Daze Trad 25m

Start: Approx 100metres right of 'Peanuts', which places it somewhere near 'Blackfoot', is a small cairn at the base of a nice crack, which takes good wires to a horizontal break at 4m. Dance between twin cracks to unlikely looking steep bulge, which is well protected (0.3+0.4 BD) and much easier than it looks on good holds. When on the Face above move left to large ledge with tree abseil. Rap approx 25m to ground from tree.

FA: Josef Goding, Stephen Holloway, 2001

14
12 Mohawk Trad 67m

Corner-crack 8 metres left of 'Blackfoot'

15
17 Foxy Fightback Trad 55m

Start up left edge of buttress 10 metres left of 'Mohawk'. Good moves on the first pitch. A garden at the top of the second pitch.

  1. 30m Climb left edge of buttress, 1m left of thin crack. Right on narrow ledge at 6m. Up short, left-facing corner/crack, then right to foot of ‘gully’. Up steeply to ledge, then on to second one (right of tree).

  2. 30m Up to next ledge, then up line in yellow wall above until it stops below bulge. Over bulge, then up vegetation to overhang. Pull over this and go up left. Climb short corner-crack, then easy ramp leading up left.

FA: Greg Aimer, Chris Baxter (alt), Christina Freestone, 1993

16
13 Midori Trad 60m

Black crack 45 metres left of 'Mohawk'

17

Start at black groove 8 metres right of 'Before Columbus'.

  1. 30m (19) Black groove to shallow, rightfacing corner. Up to ledge on right. Short, yellow corner to ledge. Go 15m right to corner.

  2. 20m Corner (probably 'Midori').

FA: Graeme Smith, Glen Donohue, Andrew Well, 1998

18
21 Before Columbus Trad 70m

Line 38 metres left of 'Midori', 2 metres right of 'Geronimo',

19
21 * Geronimo Aid 70m

Scrubby left-facing corner crack 2 metres left of 'Before Columbus'.

FFA: Glenn Tempest, Geoff Butcher, Michael Hampton, 1993

20
16 M4 Deja Vu Aid 65m

Start 3 metres left of 'Geronimo', 6 metres right of 'Peanuts'

21
18 ** Peanuts Trad 83m

A classic. Varied and enjoyable first pitch. The second pitch is a little more out there. Start 6 metres left of 'Deja Vu'

  1. 37m (18) Up white slab to crack/corner. Step left under roof then up and into the lovely corner above. Belay from chains (30m to ground from here).

  2. 45m (18) A bit wild. Up just right of the belay for about 6-7m ,traverse left (about 4m) and up corner, left again past arete and up face on left, all the way to top. Double ropes reccomended for this pitch. Could be best to belay about 15m below the top on big ledge to help with the drag. There is a triple bolt belay (rings). Descent is around 45m rap to the top of the 1st pitch (then another 30m to the ground).

FA: Andrew Thomson, Gordon Talbett, 1971

22
20 * Hairy Canary Trad 86m

Corner 10 metres left of 'Peanuts'

23
11 M5 ** Pest Strip Aid 86m

Crack 3 metres left of 'Hairy Canary'

24
20 M5 ** The Liquidator Aid 79m

Slab 3 metres left of 'Pest Strip'

25
24 ** Falkenhorst Trad 83m

Bulging line 10 metres left of 'The Liquidator'

26
10 M5 * Thunderball Aid 86m

Corner 7 metres left of 'Falkenhorst'

27
23 * Shaken, Not Stirred Sport 23m

Fun steep sport

Start: Starts 1m left of 'Thunderball' at corner. (This is about 5-7m left of Falkenhorst, which has an unusual reverse "S" marked in the rock at waist height). There are some old bolts at chest height between these routes which was the old bivvy.

FA: Josef Goding, Achim Gross, 2008

28
17 * Westward Expansion Trad 18m

In the nineteenth century, the incessant westward expansion of the United States incrementally compelled large numbers of Native Americans to resettle further west, often by force, almost always reluctantly

Start: Steeper and harder than it looks! Starts about 4-5m right of "Yatzi" (about 100m south of 'Shaken, not stirred', which doesn't fit with 'Yatzi' being 36 metres left of 'Thunderball') below big roof, the attractive 18m high crack finishing at a steep roof with a very steep offwidth crack.

FA: Josef Goding, Eric Sidharta, 2008

29
16 Yatzi Trad 68m

36 metres left of 'Thunderball'

30
21 Cheyenne Trad 72m

Very short corner 8 metres left of 'Yatzi'

31
13 Mountolive Trad 75m

Crack 50 metres left of 'Cheyenne'

32
16 Fool's Paradise Trad 95m

Seam and left-leading ramp 6 metres left of 'Mountolive'.

33
12 M3 Apache Aid 56m

Start 20 metres left of 'Fools Paradise' at a name-plaque!

34
15 Wild Bill Hancock Trad 130m

Corner 18 metres left of 'Apache', 8 metres right of 'Little Big Man'

35
16 Little Big Man Trad 90m

Start at face 8 metres left of 'Wild Bill Hancock'

36
19 Quiver Trad 120m

Thought to be somewhere right of 'Ten Years After' or near 'Pocahontas'

37
19 M4 ** Ten Years After Aid 110m

Start 28 metres left of 'Little Big Man', 15 metres right of 'The Renegade'.

39
11 M5 * The Renegade Aid 100m

Crack 15 metres left of 'Ten Years After', 25 metres right of 'The Lone Ranger'

40
9 M4 * The Lone Ranger Aid 110m

Slab 25 metres left of 'The Renegade', 6 metres right of 'Silver'.

41
9 M4 Silver Aid 95m

Start at slab 6 metres left of 'The Lone Ranger'.

42
9 M3 * Tonto Aid 79m

Steep, initialled crack 9 metres left of 'Silver'.

43

Start at very shallow corner right of 'Pocahontas'.

44
14 * Pocahontas Trad 100m

First pitch takes one of the most prominent lines on the cliff. May be undergraded. Giant corner 60 metres left of 'Tonto'.

  1. 35m (14) Giant right-facing corner can be started on the right or directly, Up corner to belay in niche below a large guano stain. There may be an old piton here.

  2. 15m (14) Up corner on poor rock for 5 metres then right across slab and then hand traverse right to ledge.

  3. 23m Right again for 12 metres, up past bush at overhang to cave.

  4. 30m (14) Over bulge and up to roof and right to chimney-groove.

FA: Ian Guild, Michael Stone, 1966

45
14 Broken Arrow Trad 85m

Start as for 'Pocahontas'. This alternative finish looks outrageous for the grade.

46
17 Lost Arrow Trad 93m

Buttress 23 metres left of 'Pocahontas', just right of the descent gully.